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kruginmi
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
I picked up a 1/96 propeller and lifting frame from Cottage Industries targeted for the Revell CSS Alabama for not too much money. Not an exact match but better than the kit supplied one:
With some filing and shaping I could do something with that. I wish I had the lifting frame when I built out the prop area but I think I could modify to make it fit. Not too far out whack for what I see in pictures of the actual ship.
When you put both together I have a good starting point for some filing and tweaking, on both the ship and supplied pieces. I will not have the lifting component actually rigged in to raise, but it will look the part.
See how it looks. Always have the option to go to plan B and use the original (let alone scratch something up).
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Hey Mark, I purposefully posted that aircraft as a backdrop behind the current ship build. No intent for a separate build log. -
Probably last you will see of it. (A26 Invader, Comet kit)
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Back on to the gun deck cannon backing pieces. Should have these completed this weekend and I am thinking carving of the stern blocks will start.
It has been a bit of time since the last update. I had to shift focus onto a second project that jumped in priority. I left a small hint in the attached photo of what that could be. Let me see who can figure it out....
Only the smartest will figure it out. Let's get to that inner planking (did I say too much there?)
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Big day today in the life of this model - it gets the holes for masts to allow those dramatic side shots:
Now the 'masts' seen are from the original kit and will not be used. They were available and a consistent diameter less than the target masts so why not. I did need them to insure I had everything in alignment when sighting down the center line.
First step was to attach the all important blocking for support and strength.
Then securing to the ship stand and verifying level I got it on the drill press. I actually drilled twice. The first was with a smaller diameter hole to verify all was right before I enlarged with a second round.
The moment of truth was when you sighted down all three 'masts' while looking at the hull. This alignment is beyond me with the camera so you have the closest I can get.
Everything looks good. When I get the backings on the gun ports I can start planking again. I do need to have a look at the cathead's. I do not have them on my plans and need to insure they are still possible haha.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from LeoM in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Well, got those stern blocks (2 each side) affixed and shaped. A large file for the bulk, then down to sandpaper for tuning. Probably still some more subtle shaping left to do.
With that all the stealers / shaped fillers / blocks are all attached. Now for sanding and more sanding prior to applying a sealer than primer. Above the waterline will be veneer planked.
Funny story: looking at the pic of the port side, rear gun port. Yah, never finished that. Cutting it out won't be that bad, it is just adding the backing plate would have been so much easier reaching in the hull. I have to laugh.
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Steggen in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Mark,
This book is new to me, so I have no idea if it´s any good.
Anders
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
I hit a bit of a milestone today. Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up. Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer. Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Well this takes some time, but the end result is pretty nice. This is the stbd forward section. If you look closely you see the change from 1/16" inner thickness top to bottom at the forward end, to double that at the far end at the deck level only.
I still need to cut out the external gun port, put on the inner skin, then cut the internal four gun port openings.
Going on a family holiday so I will check in from afar for the next bit of time.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from robdurant in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
I hit a bit of a milestone today. Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up. Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer. Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Anders: In my book search I have found (and am able to procure) this book:
Not the cheapest but I will do it if it is worthwhile. Are you familiar with it?
It is not by the author you had given but still not finding a copy that I have the ability to get.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Alright, back in operation. Finished up all the bulwarks. This took some time but happy with the result. Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck. 5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base. Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally.
The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later.
Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull.
Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from robdurant in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Alright, back in operation. Finished up all the bulwarks. This took some time but happy with the result. Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck. 5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base. Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally.
The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later.
Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull.
Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull.
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Mark, the Jylland is coming along nicely. Enjoy the time with your family, those together times are far too few.
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kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides. Wood quality is 'ok.' If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off. Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!
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kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Drew onto the false deck the location of the deck furniture but also cannon ports on the edge.
This diversion was required to understand how / where I can put the bulwark stanchions. In the next pic you can see (starting from the left) I can do either side of the bulkhead, next only the left, and for the third I will need to add an extender to the bulkhead to clear the deck access port.
Another important piece of the puzzle is that I firmly identified where the aft deck ends which will define the aft deck wall (just aft of the mast). I need to get that constructed and affixed. Additionally where the under deck mast blocks need to be added prior to drilling.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Ghost029 in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Well this takes some time, but the end result is pretty nice. This is the stbd forward section. If you look closely you see the change from 1/16" inner thickness top to bottom at the forward end, to double that at the far end at the deck level only.
I still need to cut out the external gun port, put on the inner skin, then cut the internal four gun port openings.
Going on a family holiday so I will check in from afar for the next bit of time.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Just tried out the 5/32" wide extruded plastic C channel. Fits like a glove.
That will upgrade the look by quite a bit. Sometimes it is the simple things.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Thanks so much Anders. The postcard answered the one question of whether it was a knee below or single piece. I will 'assume' the rest of the knee was internal to the bulkhead (none visible on deck).
With the outer tumblehome and inner perpendicular, I am getting variable thicknesses for the gun ports. The forward ones will be the thinnest since they are consistently 5/16" top to bottom. The aft ones could add 1/8".
I just picked up a plastic U cap to put on top of the bulkhead (picture provided when I get downstairs). As for the decoration, not sure how (of if) I will attempt for this build.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from LEFEBVRE in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Thanks so much Anders. The postcard answered the one question of whether it was a knee below or single piece. I will 'assume' the rest of the knee was internal to the bulkhead (none visible on deck).
With the outer tumblehome and inner perpendicular, I am getting variable thicknesses for the gun ports. The forward ones will be the thinnest since they are consistently 5/16" top to bottom. The aft ones could add 1/8".
I just picked up a plastic U cap to put on top of the bulkhead (picture provided when I get downstairs). As for the decoration, not sure how (of if) I will attempt for this build.
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Steggen in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
As you are working on the bulwarks, here is a couple of pictures of how they look. As you will see they are quite thick and with some decoration.
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kruginmi reacted to Steggen in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Mark, looking trough my pictures of Jylland I didn´t have much on the catheads. The ones I got is a postcard and a picture from the book on Jylland. Hopefully you will find them somewhat useful
Anders
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kruginmi got a reaction from king derelict in Regina by Kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:30
With planks of limited width the process sure takes some time:
1. Grab a length of wood (1 piece spans entire hull)
2. Cut/Sand forward edge to match stem inset
3. Locate on hull adding using all clamps and or other hold downs
4. Mark where to cut after stern.
5. Remove from hull and cut off extra at stern
6. Soak with hot water for a minute
7. Affix to hull using all clamps and leave to dry (3 hours)
8. Remove, sand any edge angles required
9. Glue to frames and plank edges
10. Clamp. Leave to dry 2-3 hours
The below picture shows me doing this for the waterways as well as the keel. There is a lot of going down and up to the basement workroom but progress is being made.
I do need to think of the mast step before too much longer. I need a solid (flat landing for that which restricts movement. Easy now, not so easy with the hull closed up.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from king derelict in Regina by Kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:30
Now that the Regina has 6 planks on each side (now below the deck level) this ship is rock solid. The last issue I had in the hull from so many years ago was the wonkiness of the frame installs. It was not textbook (LOL). Running a test plank up and down the hull it actually wasn't too bad - EXCEPT for one frame. This frame for whatever reason was riding too high, almost a 1/16" too high. There were gaps on both sides over this frame at mid deck level and below. I thought about adding shims and that was certainly possible but then another idea came to mind......
It actually was easier to just remove the frame just above where the issue became apparent, remove a 1/16" at the bottom (with some reshaping) then add spacers to push the frame down.
I am not going to say it fits perfect, but there is meat on the bones to allow some minimal shaping and all will be well.
I also wanted to show that soaking certain types of planks for just 30 seconds in hot water (I use the tap) and letting them dry in position prior to gluing does work very well. The following plank had dried for 2 hours and was ready to be glued in. Very minimal clamping.
Having too much fun. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
A critical part at this juncture is to make sure the cannon ports are the correct height for the cannons. I needed to compensate for the lack of a deck and attached wheels but everything checked out with the plans. Also the first time I dug a cannon out of the kit and actually looked at them.
Once the framework was done on for the inner bulkhead, the ports needed to be cut out of the outer bulwark. This allowed the inner wall to be glued on and then the gunport hole cut out repeated on the inner. I used a drill to identify the corners, sliced through on the opposite side with a sharp knife, then used a riffler file to fine tune.
This whole process was then repeated on the opposing side bulwark.
I am now half way there! Two more stretches of bulwark each with (again) four gun ports. The interesting wrinkly coming up is that the bulwark flairs to the outside by the fore deck. The middle section of the bulwark will become just a constant 1/16". It takes time but really looks pretty cool. I am happy.
Mark
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