kruginmi

Went onto an auction site and found this poster for a very reasonable price.  It is 33" x 24" (large) but.....I am thinking of using the top part as the back drop for the eventual case.  Parts of the bottom will be on the base. 
 
Something different.
Mark

I went and cut 1/2 of the cannon ports out.  These ports essentially line up with one plank width (done on purpose) so for strength I need to add the plank on top prior to cutting them completely out.  Again, these will have a wood blank supporting all sides behind them - for the 1/2 gun provided in the kit.
 
I then measured the plank strip required to get from the top of the cannon port to the top of the bulwark (not including the top cap).  I cut a custom piece of 1/16th basswood to this size using my Byrnes Saw (love that thing).

My intention had been to create bulwark supports  prior to installing this plank but on consideration, it really seemed like it didn't need them to get the right shape.  I still will install supports, just not anchored to the bulkhead sides.  So I went ahead and glued a section on.
I used 2 sections per side, split at the port of call opening.  The brads are temporary until everything dries.  Almost went together too easy.  Clean up should be a snap.  I got both rear sections in.  The fore sections will be glued in two stages - there is quite a sweep up front so I will lock in the aft part solid, then work on the forward.
 
A lot of unexpected progress.  Here is to finishing this thing in 2023.
Mark

Love the job you are doing on Jylland but have to ask what the model is the case?

Went onto an auction site and found this poster for a very reasonable price.  It is 33" x 24" (large) but.....I am thinking of using the top part as the back drop for the eventual case.  Parts of the bottom will be on the base. 
 
Something different.
Mark

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
 
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark

Went onto an auction site and found this poster for a very reasonable price.  It is 33" x 24" (large) but.....I am thinking of using the top part as the back drop for the eventual case.  Parts of the bottom will be on the base. 
 
Something different.
Mark

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

In amongst all the things to do at our house, I am getting anywhere from 2-4 full length planks affixed (each length cut into 2 pieces for fitting).

My process is to go downstairs fit one piece of a plank by defining shaping the end fit against either the fore or aft beard line.  I work out how many wand what type of clamps to use to hold it firm.  I then go up and soak the plank in hot water under the tap.  Then it gets put in place, clamped down and left for about 2 hours to dry.  After 2 hours I remove from the clamps and the shape has set.  I then put wood glue down on the bulkheads where it connects, add clue on the mating edge and clamp down.  Given the wood has been shaped and there is very little to no stress pulling it off the bulkheads, after 2 hours the clamps can be removed and proceed to the next piece. 
 
Depending on location you could do 2 1/2 pieces at a time.  I will state I stagger the bulkheads where the joins occur but do match these up port / starboard.  I am getting a pretty tight fit but don't sweat if a little gap occurs.  This is a smooth sided ship so the it will eventually be just one solid shape.
 
I did pick up the wood filler I will use (as sparingly as possible) once the planking is complete.  It is a water based product.  The reviews are good and I got it at a wood specialty store.

Lather, rinse, repeat.  No rush.  It is amazing how fast this comes together.
 Mark

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

Drew onto the false deck the location of the deck furniture but also cannon ports on the edge.

This diversion was required to understand how / where I can put the bulwark stanchions.  In the next pic you can see (starting from the left) I can do either side of the bulkhead, next only the left, and for the third I will need to add an extender to the bulkhead to clear the deck access port.

Another important piece of the puzzle is that I firmly identified where the aft deck ends which will define the aft deck wall (just aft of the mast).  I need to get that constructed and affixed.  Additionally where the under deck mast blocks need to be added prior to drilling.
Mark

Drew onto the false deck the location of the deck furniture but also cannon ports on the edge.

This diversion was required to understand how / where I can put the bulwark stanchions.  In the next pic you can see (starting from the left) I can do either side of the bulkhead, next only the left, and for the third I will need to add an extender to the bulkhead to clear the deck access port.

Another important piece of the puzzle is that I firmly identified where the aft deck ends which will define the aft deck wall (just aft of the mast).  I need to get that constructed and affixed.  Additionally where the under deck mast blocks need to be added prior to drilling.
Mark

Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.
 
Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.
Mark

First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm
 
I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.
To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.
Cheers, Mark

Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.
 
Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  
 
Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.
Mark
 

My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.
Cheers, Mark

On to the rough in of the bow.  This is a week spot of the model as designed and several changes will be made.  The newer model had some good ideas so I used some of those as well as some of my own.  The last two bulkheads were the following:

You can see their lack of symmetry.  The proposed changes were sketched in and then checked against the build as it stands today - primarily the location of the false deck support.  Once satisfied I cut away the parts no longer needed.

You can see the amount of bulkhead I cut away on the topmost one by seeing just a hint of the previous slots cut in by Billings.  Verified by the plans I drew and by eye, comes out just right.  This was one of those areas where drawing the plans presented a lot of intersection pieces at different angles.  Best to get the base complete and then fine tune on the actual model.

These were all the supports provided by the kit.  I intend to add two additional ones.  One below the forward end of the deck as well as one half way between for support and something to plank against.  This will be quite sturdy eventually.
 
Note:  The bowsprit buts up against the forward bulkhead, coming down the stem.  I did finally look at the supplied wood for the masts and spars fully expecting dowels.  Nope.  They are already sized and shaped.  That will save some time.  Part of me wants to scratch build them but again the intent is to make the kit my Uncle always wanted too.
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

I am going to blow some minds here.  I have drawn and re-drawn the shroud lines for the main mast several times.  I have attacked from several angles:
1.  The gun tier needs to have 15 gun ports with an additional central boarding port and also a forward port.  I determined the start and completion of these and through some math and location of the masts in reference to figured out the spacing.  I used the new plans as guidance but also the museum ship with on line photos.
2.  There are 4 main deck cannon ports just aft of the main mast.  I again figured out the start and finish and roughed in the last two from a visual point of view.  I also referenced the deck view of the actual cannon and located them to the deck features.
3.  Now for the tricky part.  There are 8 main shroud lines and 4 other.  The 8 main need to be anchored just below the lower tier cannon ports and allow the ports to open.  The remaining 4 anchor above the lower tier ports.  However, all need to allow the upper tier ports to function (but no lids).
 
I have made modifications to the original plans by moving the aft upper deck partition back behind the mast as seen in the museum ship.  The original plans had squeezed the cannons and shroud lines into the remaining space and were very compressed:

The new plans (free downloadable at https://www.billingboats.com/index.php/modelboats-footer/83/120/boats/the-expert/P-bb5003-jylland )  had this area spread out but blocked off the lower ports:

I could not replicate what was seen on the museum ship while adhering to the rules above AND have it visually look right.  So........I opted to draw them in as they made sense with the setup I had.  Space wise fore and aft they line up pretty well with the museum ship.

I have to locate the cannon ports (both upper and lower) before I proceed with the planking. 
 
Another good conundrum is compare the walkway from the old plans to the new (just forward of the main mast).  The new shows much lower and is held up by the bulwark (as seen on the museum ship).  The older plans show a metal leg structure holding it up.  Did they change it because of the museum visitors and less chance to walk into it?  Did it rust away and this was the easy replacement?  No idea at this point.
 
This seems like a good compromise for the information I have.  My out of the box build is anything but haha.  Having a lot of fun though.
Mark

Wood is so much better than plastic.  I love the opportunities you have.  So many are intimidated by planking but with a little patience and fixing things as you go you can get a great looking hull.
 
I knew my kit supplied bulkheads were wonky.  There were no hull lines provided so it was all I got.  I spent a lot of time correcting the center line of the bulkheads (slot cuts made by Billings were way off) as well as focusing on getting the deck correct.  I left the mirror aspects of the actual lines to now for the most part.  I got the first plank on the starboard and focused on the line I wanted to achieve.  When dry, I cut a template of this run out of cardboard as I thought, the port side off.  Not by much but enough for me to notice (green arrows).  These are magnified so it is not the Grand Canyon.

It is so easy to fix.  Simply grabbed some planking scraps, cut to bulkhead width and added these to the bulkheads.  It was more than enough wood so this was followed by sanding to get the bevel angle back.  I don't worry too much about sanding the rest of the bulkhead - it will get refined as I work down (or up) the hull.
Give it an hour or two to dry and after sanding the cardboard template fit great and I just went ahead and glued the plank into place.

Each plank is used a defined control surface for putting in the next plank.  You make sure the first is correct (both sides of the hull) then measure off of this to insure the next is correct.  Lather, rinse and repeat.    -Mark

Wood is so much better than plastic.  I love the opportunities you have.  So many are intimidated by planking but with a little patience and fixing things as you go you can get a great looking hull.
 
I knew my kit supplied bulkheads were wonky.  There were no hull lines provided so it was all I got.  I spent a lot of time correcting the center line of the bulkheads (slot cuts made by Billings were way off) as well as focusing on getting the deck correct.  I left the mirror aspects of the actual lines to now for the most part.  I got the first plank on the starboard and focused on the line I wanted to achieve.  When dry, I cut a template of this run out of cardboard as I thought, the port side off.  Not by much but enough for me to notice (green arrows).  These are magnified so it is not the Grand Canyon.

It is so easy to fix.  Simply grabbed some planking scraps, cut to bulkhead width and added these to the bulkheads.  It was more than enough wood so this was followed by sanding to get the bevel angle back.  I don't worry too much about sanding the rest of the bulkhead - it will get refined as I work down (or up) the hull.
Give it an hour or two to dry and after sanding the cardboard template fit great and I just went ahead and glued the plank into place.

Each plank is used a defined control surface for putting in the next plank.  You make sure the first is correct (both sides of the hull) then measure off of this to insure the next is correct.  Lather, rinse and repeat.    -Mark

Well, planking has started. This top run is important since it will allow me to add the bulwark stanchions required.  This will be build up alongside each frame. 

This is a methodical operation but expect to have it closed up (with all necessary mods that requires - like installing blocking for mast holes and bulwark stanchions) by New Years.  I am a big proponent of removing stresses in the wood and not relying on glue (anyone else have thoughts of quieting sipping coffee and then hearing a large pop as one of the planks on the just finished ship model rips itself off the hull?).  This also tremendously helps the gluing up process - you use gentle pressure just to hold tight against the frame.
 
This process is not that hard, especially with flexible wood being used.  I hold the plank under running hot water (not boiling, not steam), use a paper towel to remove excess water than clamp the wood to its destination and leave to let dry (usually at least 3 hours).  After this time the clamps are removed and the wood has taken the shape of the bend required.

Now it is a simple matter of adding wood glue where appropriate and clamping as necessary to insure a solid fit.  I try for 4 strakes a day (2 each side).

Stay Building my Friends, Mark

Well, planking has started. This top run is important since it will allow me to add the bulwark stanchions required.  This will be build up alongside each frame. 

This is a methodical operation but expect to have it closed up (with all necessary mods that requires - like installing blocking for mast holes and bulwark stanchions) by New Years.  I am a big proponent of removing stresses in the wood and not relying on glue (anyone else have thoughts of quieting sipping coffee and then hearing a large pop as one of the planks on the just finished ship model rips itself off the hull?).  This also tremendously helps the gluing up process - you use gentle pressure just to hold tight against the frame.
 
This process is not that hard, especially with flexible wood being used.  I hold the plank under running hot water (not boiling, not steam), use a paper towel to remove excess water than clamp the wood to its destination and leave to let dry (usually at least 3 hours).  After this time the clamps are removed and the wood has taken the shape of the bend required.

Now it is a simple matter of adding wood glue where appropriate and clamping as necessary to insure a solid fit.  I try for 4 strakes a day (2 each side).

Stay Building my Friends, Mark

Finished the Mizzen and bowsprit assemblies.  Lots of changes here from the model plans to conform to the ship as currently seen in the museum.  I am very glad to get all my decisions down on vellum so I have a single source of Krug truth.  No using rulers, take lengths / diameters directly off plan.

Next up is a re-visit of the hull plans.  I based the cannon ports and chain plate locations based on the plans as provided in the kit.  I have made 'changes' since then.  In particular I can now absolutely identify the mast head locations and get the angles of the shrouds and backstays correct.  Lots of erasing (I really don't want to re-draw the entire hull).  Plans are just for me so I will look past the shadow marks.
 
THEN I can start planking.  A large but necessary detour.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Felt inspired so I reworked the cannon ports / shrouds to work with the improved masting.

Definitely some issues with proportionality of the original kit.  By moving the aft upper deck back to reflect what is seen on the museum ship the deck furniture is a bit 'off.'  I originally focused on the ports with respect to the closest mast and had an issue.  An easy fix that looked great was to add another lower tier cannon port each side (total 16) but thought I would do harm to future rivet counters LOL.  Their head would absolutely explode.
 
So.....I put the cannon ports in first (the correct number) then put the shrouds/backstays in to fit around them.  Actually turned out really well - and I saved lives in the process.
 
Next up is actually planking (with a solid plan). 
Cheers, Mark

Finished the Mizzen and bowsprit assemblies.  Lots of changes here from the model plans to conform to the ship as currently seen in the museum.  I am very glad to get all my decisions down on vellum so I have a single source of Krug truth.  No using rulers, take lengths / diameters directly off plan.

Next up is a re-visit of the hull plans.  I based the cannon ports and chain plate locations based on the plans as provided in the kit.  I have made 'changes' since then.  In particular I can now absolutely identify the mast head locations and get the angles of the shrouds and backstays correct.  Lots of erasing (I really don't want to re-draw the entire hull).  Plans are just for me so I will look past the shadow marks.
 
THEN I can start planking.  A large but necessary detour.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Felt inspired so I reworked the cannon ports / shrouds to work with the improved masting.

Definitely some issues with proportionality of the original kit.  By moving the aft upper deck back to reflect what is seen on the museum ship the deck furniture is a bit 'off.'  I originally focused on the ports with respect to the closest mast and had an issue.  An easy fix that looked great was to add another lower tier cannon port each side (total 16) but thought I would do harm to future rivet counters LOL.  Their head would absolutely explode.
 
So.....I put the cannon ports in first (the correct number) then put the shrouds/backstays in to fit around them.  Actually turned out really well - and I saved lives in the process.
 
Next up is actually planking (with a solid plan). 
Cheers, Mark