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    Staffordshire - England

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  1. Hi, I think you are being extremely ambitious to have your first build as the HMS Bounty. It has one of the hardest and unforgiven bows for planking.
  2. It would be nice if all of his ships were back together but understand on space. one good place to put a ship on display without taking any space is the wall facing you as you come down your stairs. Then you get too enjoy each morning as you come down. Not many places in Staffordshire, Kedleston hall just over the border in Derbyshire did have some ships on display but not sure if still the case.
  3. I am assuming you are in the UK due to the passport, or, due to having it out, you have had to travel overseas to get to the house, hence why the travel dilemma. If you can give basic area there may be a model boat club in the area that can help or we may know of a local museum. Lots of small seaside museums in the U.K. that might take this. Some have kit built in them and sure they would prefer this scratch built model which would show the type coastal trading vessel. They often put plaques on with builder and donation / owner details. Then you can visit the museum and see others enjoying it.
  4. This was also my first wooden build. I just looked and I noticed that the canon, if installed would damage the shrouds so modified. I think the only other modifications made were to the rig and masts using my own dimensions and rigging plan and to the head rails
  5. So often we have people come on here with a similar story or wanting to know what something is worth, hoping no doubt to find out it is worth a fortune. Usually, when you look, it is an awful seaside souvenir, badly made and worthless. However, what you have here looks to be a skilfully made scale model that your grandfather took a lot of care over. For that very reason I think you should keep it. I wish I had more from my grandad that had a real reason to remember him by, you have memories of watching him build this. As for transporting I would put it on your passengers lap or trap the hull upright between two cushions. Masts in free air.
  6. I suppose as the Cruiser class was the largest class of ships ever in the Royal Navy it would also span over a long period of time so no rights or wrong. I also have the 'Building Plank on Frame Ship' Models by Ron McCarthy. For this book he is building the earlier Cruizer class. He has the main mast and preventer as your model but the main topmast stays are main over preventer. Although the run is slightly different again. As I am building with long guns instead of Carronades I was going to make the rig to as originally launched but with all the contradictory information it is very difficult to know what is right. You would normally work on the principal that as you rig further up or out then the rigging lines get finer.
  7. Conway's ship types book, Bomb Vessels by Chris Ware is worth taking a look at. It has line drawings, profile and deck plans for her when converted to a fire ship and as a Bomb vessel. It also has line drawings and painting as she was converted for arctic exploration. Unfortunately though she was ship rigged in all these forms and hull shape very different to the kit. As a Bomb there was 5 gun ports per side. This was my first kit and I did some research at the time. I found a representation of a British Bomb Ketch in 'Fighting ships of the Royal Navy' by E.H.H. Archibald which is a ketch with identical shape and stern to the kit. Racehorse was a captured French ship and converted to a bomb but never designed as one. Carcass, on the other hand, was designed as a bomb and converted to artic exploration. She sailed with Racehorse and it is this ship that Nelson was in. I assume Carcass was not good for sales as a kit. When I researched Carcass she did not fit the design either but she was of the class 'Infernal'. So I researched infernal and found an earlier Infernal that was a member of the 'Thunder' class that did have similar lines. Hence I re-named my kit Thunder. Another option is a beautiful Ketch rigged sloop of war of which there is a model in the NMM. HMS Speedwell see photographs in 'Sloop of War' by Ian McLaughlan. You will recognise the stern immediately She did get converted to a fireship for a spell but nothing mentioning a bomb..
  8. Thank you Joe, you couldn't have answered at a better time as I was searching for your build. You have rigged as the kit instructions. So the details in the Brig Irene book matches the kit but not Lees. What era is the Brig Irene? I have just noticed that I have done the Main mast stays different to you. Both my main and preventer going to the bowsprit where as your preventer goes to a block on the foremast. Lees puts your method as ending in 1793. Does the Irene in the book date before this? Just looked at the Petersson book and this has Main topmast stay over the Preventer. Now we are 2-2.
  9. Have now done the topmast standing backstays and moved to the topmast stays. The Cruiser kit does not suggest a fore topsail preventer which I am going to add. However, it does show a main topsail preventer stay. This leads to my next question. Kit shows the main topmast preventer stay rigged above the topmast stay. Topmast stay leads forward and down to a block behind fore mast just below main mast cheeks. Preventer shown running forward and down to a block half way between main mast top and cap. This is exactly as Lee's has it other than the other way round - main stay leads to below cap and preventer to cheeks. Question is, which is correct? Suppose another trawl through books is on the cards.
  10. Quick update on rigging process. Now rigged, thread sizes are those calculated from James Lees rather than suggested by the kit. Order of rig is my standard I always use and was developed from the Noel C Hackney book for the Airfix Victory. I produce my own 'manual' for the rigging back tracking as I research for the points best to attach blocks. Gammoning lower mast pendants lower mast shrouds, thread used 0.75mm Catharpins 0.25mm bobstays 0.6mm bowsprit shrouds 0.6mm Mainstay 1,27mm Main preventer stay 0.9mm Forestay 1.27mm Fore preventer 0.9mm Snaking - not rigged Crowsfeet. Jibboom horses Topmast Burton Pendants Topmast Shrouds Futtock shrouds Ratlines Shifting backstays
  11. Hi John, The Pettersson book is a good reference just remember it is for one point in History and for a ship. You are rigging a Brig that may have differences as well due to being a captured Dutch ship. I still refer to James Lees book for variances for the period of the vessel I am building. As for being a Brig just remember that the lowest yard on the main mast is now a crossjack yard and so will not have as much rigging as the fore yard. I am just catching up with you on my H.M.S. Cruiser's rigging. Just doing the ratlines and then will have backstays to do before I have caught up. I write up my hole rigging plan first so happy to help as we go along. If you start a log from where you are it will start a debate that will help you. Adrian
  12. Hi, they have removed the gift option when buying from the States as I recently found out. Still have to pay UK tax on arrival. Not sure when shipping the other way.
  13. Hi, I was just looking into purchasing the confederacy for my 50th. Are they still available? I am in Staffordshire.
  14. The Airfix Golden hind stern cannot be correct as Drake renamed the ship 'Golden Hind' after one of the benefactors of the expedition whilst already on the journey.
  15. Your biggest problem is finding what was in each volume. I created an index but even this is only what was of interest to me and for the volumes I have. Model shipwright created a separate index with its one hundredth issue but it wasn't completely correct. I think the below is the traditional shipbuilding you want but I will have to get one out to double check the Author. For confusion's sake, early editions were in volumes and then changed to just number. You want the editions listed under number.

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