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    Staffordshire - England

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  1. Arlington Court In Devon UK used to have a very good collection of ship models with a number of Prisoner of war models. It is a National Trust house and their website does not help much but when I last went, about 10 years ago it had room after room of ship models. Another reason a lot of museums have much smaller displays is that they have lost space to allow for disabled access.
  2. Hi, I made up one of the cannons sat on some decking strip to double check the heights and to make sure the cannon would be placed central to the port. If you think yours is too low remember that you can plank it higher at that end but you may also have to do so for the gun port.
  3. Hi, I have noticed that you live in Germany but the plank bender you have shown is 230V. Just check before you buy as I assume you are 110V in Germany.
  4. Hi, I have the model craft plank bender but find it only successful if you first soak the plank. I use it to shape the plank and dry it out at the same time. It has never worked when using un soaked planks and has the tendency to scorch it if you persist. It would be lovely to be able to spil the planks to get the right shape but unfortunately not really feasible with the timber strips provided in a kit as too narrow to start with. Buying timber in the uk, even if you only want to upgrade, is not easy and far too expensive for my budget. £564 for the diana kit and £250 more to change the second planking! I replaced the deck planking for £55 but it needs to go back as quality worse than what came in the kit.
  5. I often use the method of: taper plank as required for position to be fitted, either fore or aft. Soak plank in hot water clamp in required position till dry remove ( should retain shape) then glue and clamp in place The only down side is if the model does not have enough bulkheads the plank will look to be stepped rather than a gradual curve. This is where shaping with an iron wins.
  6. Hi, both may be right depending on where on the hull the profile is for. Possibly A where the planks terminate at the stem and B along the lower keel.
  7. That planking looks great which makes my next comment hard to say. Don't some of the midships bulkhead tabs want cutting off after the second planking is complete? At least I'm sure that was the case when I built her. I hope I'm not right.
  8. I think your planking started off really well. I think the main reasons you then started to struggle are more down to common faults in kit design. Firstly, especially for a single planked hull, those bulkheads are far too far apart. There is no wonder that at the more difficult part of the hull the planks have started to twist and become hard to make even. Secondly, the planks, on a real build the blanks might not only be tapered but be cut to shape from a much wider plank (think this is called 'spilling'). This means they would fit more naturally, we have to make do with the kit planks of all one parallel width. We then try to force to shape with the tendency for them to buckle. At the stem, did you cut a rabbet? when you chose to fit the stem early it would of been advisable to do this to snug the end of the planks into. I say all this but my planking has exactly the same faults. So don't knock yourself up. If it was double planked you wouldn't have the issues as you would sand it down, fill the dips and have a sound base for the second layer. Then I think you will be surprised how good you can plank.
  9. Hull nearly complete just some tidying up to do. I used Manns floor varnish to finish the hull and deck. I put this on another topic.
  10. Rudder pintles added, rudder ready to be fitted but leaving off for now. Paint will need touching up. Hull entrance steps
  11. Gratings in place on the deck. None are these are true to size of the plan. I cut the deck back to the apertures on the false deck. Big mistake, not only are the grating parts provided insufficient in length to cover the holes the subsequent built size are not to plan. My advice would be to plank the deck completely and apply the gratings over the top. Not correct to real manufacture which is the opposite way round. The over issue is the small gap between the gratings and between them and the companionway. The planks are too small and to easy to keep breaking away. Hole for the companionway ( still visible above) is also too large. I have this ready to put in place and have had to run a plank round the bottom edge to make it wide enough to cover the hole.
  12. Lou, Thank you for taking an interest, Below is another view of the deck showing the nibbling strake and planking. Gun port eyebolt positions were drilled through a simple jig made out of two layers of scrap ply. The larger layer had the jig holes drilled through, the smaller layer is the exact size of the gun port. Has a planking screw through the centre so can be passed through the port and held from the outside whilst drilling for the eyebolts from the inside. Take a note of the hawse hole positions as predetermined by the kit. They are too far from the stem post. Any anchor cable would rub on the cathead brackets when running in a direct line too their access to the cable tier. If you look to the next photos of the outside of the hull you will see they are too far out compared to the cheeks. Funny our good the kit looks to you photograph it. View of headrails etc, Not much like the kit, I managed to shape the grating / marines walk by soaking for hours and then shaping with a hot iron.
  13. Have you not watched 101 Dalmatians? I thought they were plain but slightly pink. Love them, don't see these types of breed much any more only mongrels with poo in the name somewhere!
  14. I am the reverse of this, I really struggle to hold the yard whilst dressing it so fit to the mast and then fit all blocks and finally sails.

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