Elia

Outstanding Frank.  That winder mechanism, the support frame, and the blocks are terrific.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Part 52 – Kathryn’s Dredge Winder Cont’d
 
There are two pulleys hanging off either end of the dredge winder’s crossbar.  The shape of these pulleys is fairly unique, so available blocks couldn’t be used and they needed to be fabricated.  The following drawing shows the shape of these pulleys.
 
                        
 
I tried making these out of brass, but the small size presented lots of problems so I decided to make them out of wood.  The first step was gluing the drawing to an appropriately sized piece of wood.
 
                        
 
The holes representing the size of the sheaves were drilled.
 
                        
 
Then the outline of the pulley was shaped, first by cutting on the scroll saw and then by finishing with small files.
 
                        
 
The groove representing the outside of the sheave was made using a small round escapement file.
 
                        
 
A hole was drilled in the top of the pulley and a small ring made from copper wire was inserted and glued using CA.
 
                        
 
The pulleys were hardened by soaking with thin CA, and were then finish-sanded.  Black Rust-Oleum paint was sprayed on the pulleys while they were held by thin wire.
 
                        
 
The pulleys were attached to the crossbar using small rings made from black wire.
 
                        
 
The I-beams supporting Kathryn’s dredge winder are themselves supported by some wooden planks.  On the model, these planks were drilled and then small pieces of .019 piano wire were glued into the holes to act as pegs for attaching the winder configuration to the model’s deck.
 
The planks with pegs were epoxied to the bottom of the I-beams.  The blackening was scraped off the I-beams to ensure that the epoxy would hold.
 
                        
 
Holes were drilled into the model’s deck to take the pegs.  The following photo shows the winder configuration pegged to the deck, with the ‘cables’ for the dredge winders fed through the new pulleys.
 
                        
 
The dredge winder is powered by a V-6 Buick engine contained in an engine housing.  The following photos show the model’s engine housing in place.  The exhaust pipe was made from 1/8” brass tubing colored with JAX Flemish Black diluted 1:1.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The dredge winder assembly will not be permanently mounted on the model until somewhat later in the build.  Here are some photos of Kathryn’s current state.
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
There are a number of small items to be completed next, while I spend some time planning for the rest of the build.
 
Thanks everyone!

Part 51 – Kathryn’s Dredge Winder Cont’d
 
It has been quite a while since my last post.  Here in Arizona, February and March are very popular months for visitors, and we had our share this year.  So time in the shop has been hard to get for the past 6 weeks or so.  I did mange to get a little done, and the last few days have been fairly productive.
 
The last photos showed the winder completed but still not blackened.  The next photos show it after blackening (yes, I thought about leaving the brass natural, but I want to show Kathryn as she actually looks, so I needed to blacken the winder).
 
                        
 
                        
 
The dredges are hauled on cables, but metal cables would be difficult to wind around the winder drums, so black rope was used on the model instead.  After winding the rope around the drums, matte medium was painted on the rope to keep it from loosening.
 
                        
 
The frame around the dredge winder is constructed from angle iron.  There is 1/16 and 1/8 brass angle iron available, but neither size was appropriate (I needed 3/32).  So 1/32 was milled off each side of the 1/8 angle iron using the setup shown in the following photo.
 
                        
 
The silver-colored clamps are homemade clamps that provide additional reach over the standard Sherline clamps.
 
The ends of the frame are constructed with angles rather than straight, and the ends are canted inward, as in the following construction drawing.
 
         
 
A wooden form was made to support the construction of the winder frame.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The angle on each side of the end pieces is 130 degrees, so the disk sander miter gauge was set at 65 degrees and the ends of the angle irons were sanded to this angle.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The end pieces of the form were removable to allow for clamping of the pieces.
 
                        
 
Although the form is wood, it was able to withstand the resistance soldering which localizes the heat.  This setup probably wouldn’t work very well for soldering with a torch.
 
                        
 
Once the individual sides of the ends were soldered, the complete form was used to join all of the pieces to the crossbar.
 
                        
 
                        
 
In the above photo, a small hand vise is holding the form, and this small vise is being held in the bench vise.
 
The basic frame was completed, but still needed the cross-braces.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The soldering of the cross-braces required some extra effort to keep from opening the joints already soldered.  Pieces of paper towel that had been soaked in water were clamped around existing joints to prevent the heat from opening those joints.
 
                        
 
The following photos show the winder frame completed and blackened and temporarily in place.  Additional work on the blackening is still needed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
Here’s a photo of Kathryn’s real winder and frame.
 
                        
 
The pulleys hanging from the crossbar still need to be made, as well as the boards that are beneath the I-beams.  The housing for the engine that drives the winder also needs to be made.  The winder configuration will then be put aside until later in the project so it doesn’t interfere with other delicate construction work.
 
Thanks everyone.  I hope to post more frequently now that work is again under way.
 
 

Hi Lawrence,
 
Thanks for dropping in.  Now that spring is here and my basement isn't uncomfortably cold I will get back to finishing those blocks.  I purchased essentially all but the very smallest blocks for my schooner from Siren Ship as the build up blocks.  The very smallest blocks required were smaller than the smallest size Chuck offers.  For those Chuck tried to create some custom small blocks but couldn't get them work out, so I purchased some if his standard blocks for those smallest sizes.  The blocks look surprisingly realistic for a built up internally iron stropped type.  The only 'limiting' aspect I had to accept was that the blocks are available in fewer block sizes than the range specified for the actual ship.  Not too big of an issue for me.
 
Those books of Ed T's on his clipper model Young America are as impressive as his build.  I've got both books and await the next one on rigging.  Just last night I dropped them off with my dad - for his perusal and enjoyment - while he recovers from a medical set back.  He really loves clipper ships so I'll bet he spends hours wading into the books and plans.  Honestly, I can't consider something like Young America for years (more than a decade) ... my family consumes far too much time and its only once the kids are through college that I would have the time to devote to such a massive undertaking.  All I want is to keep making progress, as slow as it is, on my Arethusa.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Hi Lawrence,
 
Thanks for dropping in.  Now that spring is here and my basement isn't uncomfortably cold I will get back to finishing those blocks.  I purchased essentially all but the very smallest blocks for my schooner from Siren Ship as the build up blocks.  The very smallest blocks required were smaller than the smallest size Chuck offers.  For those Chuck tried to create some custom small blocks but couldn't get them work out, so I purchased some if his standard blocks for those smallest sizes.  The blocks look surprisingly realistic for a built up internally iron stropped type.  The only 'limiting' aspect I had to accept was that the blocks are available in fewer block sizes than the range specified for the actual ship.  Not too big of an issue for me.
 
Those books of Ed T's on his clipper model Young America are as impressive as his build.  I've got both books and await the next one on rigging.  Just last night I dropped them off with my dad - for his perusal and enjoyment - while he recovers from a medical set back.  He really loves clipper ships so I'll bet he spends hours wading into the books and plans.  Honestly, I can't consider something like Young America for years (more than a decade) ... my family consumes far too much time and its only once the kids are through college that I would have the time to devote to such a massive undertaking.  All I want is to keep making progress, as slow as it is, on my Arethusa.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Hi Elia
 
I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on Arethusa.
 
I've ordered Chuck's internally stropped blocks after seeing yours during your visit, and really like them.  I wish there were some smaller versions for my Kathryn build, since they're slightly bigger than I need for some of the rigging.  The traditional blocks that are available aren't configured like the more modern blocks used on Kathryn, so I'll need to decide whether I try to make my own.
 
I know it can be frustrating to not be able to make progress on your model - many other modelers run into the same issues with life and responsibilities getting in the way.  EdT's Victory model is a great example of completing a build over many years - started in 1976 and finished in 2009 and very much worth the wait.  I've seen it in person and it's superb - hard to believe it was his first model.

Hi Lawrence,
 
Thanks for dropping in.  Now that spring is here and my basement isn't uncomfortably cold I will get back to finishing those blocks.  I purchased essentially all but the very smallest blocks for my schooner from Siren Ship as the build up blocks.  The very smallest blocks required were smaller than the smallest size Chuck offers.  For those Chuck tried to create some custom small blocks but couldn't get them work out, so I purchased some if his standard blocks for those smallest sizes.  The blocks look surprisingly realistic for a built up internally iron stropped type.  The only 'limiting' aspect I had to accept was that the blocks are available in fewer block sizes than the range specified for the actual ship.  Not too big of an issue for me.
 
Those books of Ed T's on his clipper model Young America are as impressive as his build.  I've got both books and await the next one on rigging.  Just last night I dropped them off with my dad - for his perusal and enjoyment - while he recovers from a medical set back.  He really loves clipper ships so I'll bet he spends hours wading into the books and plans.  Honestly, I can't consider something like Young America for years (more than a decade) ... my family consumes far too much time and its only once the kids are through college that I would have the time to devote to such a massive undertaking.  All I want is to keep making progress, as slow as it is, on my Arethusa.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Hi Lawrence,
 
Thanks for dropping in.  Now that spring is here and my basement isn't uncomfortably cold I will get back to finishing those blocks.  I purchased essentially all but the very smallest blocks for my schooner from Siren Ship as the build up blocks.  The very smallest blocks required were smaller than the smallest size Chuck offers.  For those Chuck tried to create some custom small blocks but couldn't get them work out, so I purchased some if his standard blocks for those smallest sizes.  The blocks look surprisingly realistic for a built up internally iron stropped type.  The only 'limiting' aspect I had to accept was that the blocks are available in fewer block sizes than the range specified for the actual ship.  Not too big of an issue for me.
 
Those books of Ed T's on his clipper model Young America are as impressive as his build.  I've got both books and await the next one on rigging.  Just last night I dropped them off with my dad - for his perusal and enjoyment - while he recovers from a medical set back.  He really loves clipper ships so I'll bet he spends hours wading into the books and plans.  Honestly, I can't consider something like Young America for years (more than a decade) ... my family consumes far too much time and its only once the kids are through college that I would have the time to devote to such a massive undertaking.  All I want is to keep making progress, as slow as it is, on my Arethusa.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Some of today's effort: assembling some of the Syren Ship Model Company's internally iron stropped blocks.  
 
In the first picture you'll find, on the left, how the mini-kits arrive.  
 
In the center/top are blocks glued together using medium CA and toothpicks (per the online instructions).  
 
At the right are the sheave pin 'wire' and the incredibly fine strip stock used for the strops in the remaining bags.
 
In the center you'll see blocks snipped off the frames and also blocks which have had the sprue and laser burn sanded off.  I found using a no. 11 blade wasn't the best way to separate the blocks from the frame - it is easy for the sprue to snap off at part and remove a small chunk of the block. The shears shown worked quite well at separating the block without the damage to the block.
 
The second picture is a close up of the blocks.
 
I tried inserting the fine strip stock into the laser cut slots - they worked perfectly on the couple I tried.
 
I will have to wait a short while before I can tumble them to smooth the edges.
 
Elia

Some of today's effort: assembling some of the Syren Ship Model Company's internally iron stropped blocks.  
 
In the first picture you'll find, on the left, how the mini-kits arrive.  
 
In the center/top are blocks glued together using medium CA and toothpicks (per the online instructions).  
 
At the right are the sheave pin 'wire' and the incredibly fine strip stock used for the strops in the remaining bags.
 
In the center you'll see blocks snipped off the frames and also blocks which have had the sprue and laser burn sanded off.  I found using a no. 11 blade wasn't the best way to separate the blocks from the frame - it is easy for the sprue to snap off at part and remove a small chunk of the block. The shears shown worked quite well at separating the block without the damage to the block.
 
The second picture is a close up of the blocks.
 
I tried inserting the fine strip stock into the laser cut slots - they worked perfectly on the couple I tried.
 
I will have to wait a short while before I can tumble them to smooth the edges.
 
Elia

Oh I feel a drop off in productivity nearing...
 
these all just arrived...

Russ,
I've had a free moment to pop in and check into your lugger's progress - and I've thoroughly enjoyed seeing your hull and deck furniture develop.  The hull painting really emphasizes to me the sweet hull lines.  The deck planking looks sharp, as do the hatch and deck house.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Russ,
I've had a free moment to pop in and check into your lugger's progress - and I've thoroughly enjoyed seeing your hull and deck furniture develop.  The hull painting really emphasizes to me the sweet hull lines.  The deck planking looks sharp, as do the hatch and deck house.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Russ,
I've had a free moment to pop in and check into your lugger's progress - and I've thoroughly enjoyed seeing your hull and deck furniture develop.  The hull painting really emphasizes to me the sweet hull lines.  The deck planking looks sharp, as do the hatch and deck house.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Russ,
I've had a free moment to pop in and check into your lugger's progress - and I've thoroughly enjoyed seeing your hull and deck furniture develop.  The hull painting really emphasizes to me the sweet hull lines.  The deck planking looks sharp, as do the hatch and deck house.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

My apologies. There is no real progress to report except that the new camera seems to be working nicely. 
 
Russ

Here are the brackets on the side of the hatch coaming and how they were made. The actual brackets on these lugger hatches is made from two pieces and I have created my own two piece method to get these results. Once they are painted along with the rest of the coaming, it should look okay. I have one more bracket to fit on the forward side of the coaming. 
 
Russ

The hatch covers have been completed except for paint. I am also making the brackets for the planks that would hold the tarpaulin cover in place. There are two on each side of the hatch and the ends. I am going to live with these for a few days and see what I think of them. They may be replaced, but we will see. 
 
Russ

Here is another photograph with the first hatch cover made. 
 
Russ

Here is the main hatch coaming. My Model Machines 4 inch table saw was handy in making the half lapped joints at the corners. The coaming sits down into the deck planking so the fit will work out well. This is much better than sitting it on top of the planking. 
 
Russ

Deck planking is complete and the deck has been scraped fairly well. I will, look again over the weekend to see if it needs any more scraping. 
 
The last deck plank, outboard and aft on the starboard side, has no glue on it. It went in nicely on the last fitting and I could not raise it again to apply glue to the bottom. Oh well, it is in there to stay regardless. 
 
Russ

Here is some progress on the deck planking. The hatches and pilot house base areas have been closed in and you can see the detail of the planking where it meest the margin plank near the bow. So far so good. 
 
Russ

The deck planking begins. The first planks are along the center line. These planks have to be right or it will spoil the appearance of the deck. I am using jigs to represent the footprints of the pilot house and hatches. This will ensure that the deck planks end snugly against the hatch coamings and the base of the pilot house. Doing it this way will allow me to have the coamings and pilot house base sit down into the deck planking, making a snug and seamless fit more likely. I could simply plank the deck and then have the coamings sit on top of the planking. However, that could lead to ugly gaps along the base of the coamings. I am hoping this will make that possibility less likely. 
 
Russ

Here she is with her first coat of white. This will need a some sanding before a second coat. Once the final white coat is on, the deck will be planked and that planking will be left with a natural finish. 
 
Russ

Well, I finally have some slight progress to report the last couple of days. What with the holidays and then the bitterly cold weather we have had the last couple of weeks, it has been difficult to get any shop time. Here, I have the large rub rail on the port side and the chain plates installed. In the next couple of days I will get the starboard chain plates installed and then I can do some painting.  
 
Russ