Elia

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 238 – Head Sails Running Rigging
 
Each of the three stays described in Part 235 carries a triangular headsail.  Each of these sails is rigged with three lines of running rigging – a halyard to raise the head of the sail along the stay, a downhaul to bring the head down, and a double sheet to restrain the clew of the sail on the windward side.  When bent to the stay, the tack at the lower end of the sail is tied off low on the stay.  Then as the luff of the sail along the stay is secured with rope "hanks" the halyard is hauled up to raise the sail along the stay.  Both the halyard and the downhaul are shackled to the sails head cringle.  On the "unsailed" model, the halyard and downhaul eye splices are secured to the shackle, which is "stopped" to the lower end of the stay with a short length of rope as shown in the first picture at the base of the topmast stay.
 

 
In the picture the smaller downhaul is led down and through a single block back to its belaying point on the forecastle.  The next picture shows the lower ends of the inner and outer jib stays rigged in this manner.
 

 
The downhauls and halyards for the topmast staysail and outer jib lead back on the starboard side and those for the inner jib are rigged on the port side.  The next picture shows the three halyards where they pass through blocks hooked under the topmast trestletrees.
 

 
The lines lead down through fairleads in the top to the fife rails below.  The next picture shows the block arrangement at the topmast head, a double block on the starboard side for the staysail and outer jib halyards and a single block on the port side for the inner jib halyard.
 

 
The next picture shows the staysail and outer jib halyards belayed on the fore mast fife rail.
 

 
As will be seen in the next picture, the rope coils on the rails are quite small because the halyards are fully overhauled along the stay when there are no sails.
 

 
The next picture shows the belayed inner jib halyard on the port side.
 

 
Conversely, most of the downhauls must be coiled at the belaying points so sufficient line will be available to run up to the head of the sails when they are hauled up to the tops of the stays, so the three large coils in the next picture contain sufficient line for that.
 

 
Finally, the sheets – a pair for each sail.  These are shackled to eyebolts on either side of the forecastle, run through bullet blocks at the ends of a double pendant shackled to the clue of each sail, and belay on cleats on the forecastle breast beam.  One side or the other is used, with the lee side slack.  On the unsailed model, I have omitted the pendants and intend to coil each sheet adjacent to its eyebolt as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The picture shows the starboard sheet for the topmast staysail secured to its eyebolt.  When passed through the pendant block on this side, this line would be belayed on the innermost cleat on the breast beam. Eyebolts for the other head sails are arranged to the left on the rail, astride the mooring cleat.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 237 – Fore Spencer Gaff
 
The term "spencer" describes gaffs rigged on masts with square sails – except for the spanker gaff at the mizzen.  They were used to support fore and aft sails that were occasionally used, or sometimes to suspend pennants to keep them out of the other rigging.  The fore spencer gaff is shown in the first picture.
 

 
The gaff is a small, very simple spar attached to the mast with a gooseneck/eye fitting.  Stops for the standing lift are roughly centered on the spar as shown in the picture.  The upper end of the lift has an eye splice shackled to the eyebolt in the top.  A stop cut into the end of the spar will take a doubled "vang" pendant pair with a single block spliced into each end.  The long pendants may be seen in the next picture.
 

 
Each vang pendant is attached to a simple whip, with the standing end seized to an eyebolt on the main rail.  The fall is belayed nearby on the main pin rail.  In the picture the falls are temporarily clamped to center the gaff.  The next picture shows them belayed to the main pin rails port and starboard.
 

 
The limited required movement of the gaff requires a relatively short fall, so the coil of rope shown in the next picture is fairly small.
 

 
The masking tape shown over the open beams, does not do a lot for the photographs, but my sanity demands it.  I finally acquiesced to this after yet another part dropped into the hold and could not be retrieved.  While it is relatively easy to blow out small bits of thread, the main mast fid did not respond to this.
 
Finally, a test for clearance around the outboard boats is shown in the next picture. 
 

 
I need to think about this and decide if a lead block would be appropriate for this relatively small line, perhaps on one of the backstays.  I love rework.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 236 – Fish Tackle
 
The fish tackle is a triple purchase tackle suspended by a hook from the pendant described in an earlier post.  A second, large hook is fastened to the lower block of the tackle.   The purpose of this gear is to lift the anchors to stow them on the forecastle or to move them to the catheads.  The required weight of anchor for a ship of Young America's tonnage would be about 5000 pounds, so even with the mechanical advantage of 6 of the triple tackle, several hundred pounds of force had to be applied to the lift – unless another tackle was added to the fall.  The first picture shows the large bottom hook and the 12" double lower block of the tackle.
 

 
I still have quite a few blocks left over from the 1:96 Victory model, so with some re-scaling I have not yet had to make any.  There will be plenty of that later.  The next picture shows the  lower block strapped to the hook and being secured to the tackle rope with two seizings.
 

 
The tackle fall is a 3½" rope spun to the ~1" (.016") diameter from 2 strands of No. 60 Crocheting cotton and dyed with non-fading natural walnut extract stain.  The small seizings are simply an overhand knot – pulled tight, wet with glue, and the ends sliced off later.  The next picture shows the other hook being strapped to the upper 12" triple block.
 

 
The block is held in a surgical clamp in a bench vise for this.  For this small strapping a single overhand knot simulates the eye seizing at the hook and another overhand knot serves for the splice of the strap under the block as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Dilute, darkened glue is applied to the splice to fix it. The excess thread is then sliced off.   In the next picture the tackle has been rigged.
 

 
The upper block is hooked to the pendant and the lower end is hooked over a leg the forestay.  The fall is belayed and draped for convenience over the forecastle rail – one possible configuration.  The next picture shows a closer view.
 

 
The coil of rope was made separately from a length of line that would be sufficient in using the tackle.  Every foot of lift would require hauling six feet of rope. The line was coiled around a dowel, wetted with diluted glue, shaped and allowed to partially dry before mounting.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 235 – Fore Topmast Stays
 
There are three forward stays from the topmast head to the bowsprit – the topmast stay proper, the inner jib stay, and the outer jib stay.  The first is the primary structural stay, consisting of a doubled 9" rope looped over the over the shrouds and backstays at the topmast head, then down and under opposite sides of the bowsprit with the ends brought up and seized to the opposite leg.  The two lines are brought together to form a collar below the crosstrees and also at the bottom above the seizings.  The collar is served and leathered and the lower ends are served on both legs up to the seizings.  The first picture shows this stay placed over the masthead after the tissue leathering was glued to it.
 

 
The collar is clamped where it will be seized together and the glue on the leathering was left to dry in this shape.  I used straight PVA white glue for this so when dry the collar will still be flexible.  In the next picture, the two legs of the stay have been passed under the bowsprit, in position for seizing.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of the lower area.
 

The two legs do not cross under the bowsprit, so one short leg is seized above the stay and the other below. In the next picture, three seizings have been put on each side and the two legs have been seized together at the top of the served areas.
 

 
Excess seizing thread and stay rope have yet to be trimmed off.  Brushing the seizings and the stay where the ends will be clipped with darkened wood glue will seal the serving and the seizing knots so the excess can be trimmed off.
 
 In the next picture the inner and outer jib stays have been served, leathered and put over the masthead and are clamped where the collars will be seized.
 

 
The leather is simulated on the glued-on tissue strips using acrylic artist's color.  The lower ends of these two stays are shown in the next picture. 
 

 
These each pass through sheaves in the bowsprit, under upper cleats on the martingale and are shackled to eyebolts on the hull – the inner jib stay on the starboard side and the outer on the port side.  After seizing the upper collars, they were pulled taut through the hull shackles and seized.  These stays are served from above the sheaves to their ends at the side.  The inner jib stay attachment is shown in the next picture.
 
 
 The stay is seized to a shackle fabricated with its eyebolt before insertion into the hull. 
 
These last two pictures and the next were taken after installing the fish tackle and some of the jib/staysail running rigging, so some of this appears in the pictures.  Each of these three stays carries a head sail.  This work will be described in later posts.  The last picture shows the ship with all the forward topmast stays rigged.
 
 
 
 
Ed
 

Thanks Chuck, Your plans and directions make it a whole lot easier. 
 
Thank you Eric. I see your doing some good work on the Syren. Nice job on the coppering the hull.
I love that Model. It was my first scratch build.
 
Thanks Jaxboat. I used the table saw to cut the grooves. Trust me there have been many
rejects before the final ones made it to the model..
 
OK I put the Syren Ship Modeling traveler ring on the bowsprit. I then served some .025 rope for the
bobstay with a 3/16" single block seized to one end. The opposite end was fed through the stem and
seized. Some .012 line was attached to the bobstay block and fed through  the lower double block on
the bowsprit. At this point I discovered I had no belaying pin to secure the line to! Head slap.  

 

 
 
Ok now it's time to make some belaying pins!
 

Ok I said I'd more for the weekend! I just didn't say which one.
 
The two yards have been completed. Blocks, foot ropes etc have also been attached.
 

 

 
Next up I have to breakout the original Syren Serv-O-Matic and try serving line for the first time.

Well, a little bit of frustration is setting in.  I cut off the bulkheads.
 

 
 
I then added the false frame timbers but I'm not happy with the alignment.
 

 
So I have since removed them as well. I tend to spend about the same amount of time in removing work that I do in adding work.   I'm not sure what approach to take next. I think this is going to be a case of working diligently, carefully, slowly and with attention to minute detail. Hopefully I can make it work and look good at the same time.
 
I went down to my shop tonight to grab my tab and found myself working on the Bluenose.  It's amazing how addictive this hobby can be.  Basically I went to my shop for 2 seconds and left an hour later.
 
On another note, I'm not happy with my shop.  My bench is at standing height and I find I get tired after only an hour or so.  Talking with the Admiral tonight I think at some point soon I'm going to tear out the bench and put in a desk.  If and when that happens it will delay the build for a bit.  Hopefully though, until then, I will make some progress.

Thanks Carl, Popeye, Rich, and Patrick for the comments.  And thanks to everyone for the 'Likes'.
 
I've been off the site for a little while due to some family business taking lots of my time.  I'll be posting one more update, then I'll be gone for most of the next three weeks on vacation.
 
 

Kathryn is looking great.  Have a good vacation Frank!

Hi everyone
 
It's been quite a while since my last update.  I've just been sidetracked with other things, which meant that regular visits to MSW has been difficult.
 
Anyhow, I've made some more progress with Shadow's Lower and Bilge Deck accommodations.  
 
Principally, Shadow's Lower Deck now has her Laundry and Crew's Mess installed.  The crew's mess consists of some bench seats as well as seven individual chairs situated around two tables.  Directly opposite the crew's mess is the Laundry.  Just forward of these areas are two crew cabins (one port and one starboard).  Still a lot of work to go...
 
The Bilge Deck has the makings of the gymnasium, another crew cabin, as well as other sundry cabins, storerooms, cabinets, etc.
 
I hope you can enjoy these photos.
 
All the best everyone!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 

 

Thanks Bob,, Glad you're safe and sound in Chicago!
Hi Mike, Not sure if the thimbles or seizing will be the most fun!
Thank you alde.
Plus all the likes too.
 
Here the boom and gaff have been completed.
 

 

 
More to come by the weekend!

Hello Micheal,
 
I am sure practices for setting up rigging varied in the laissez-faire America of the 19th century, so I would be hesitant to debate this.  However, all the references I have show the tails at about this length with a total of three seizings - two above the throat seizing.  At each stage in the design, questions like this have arisen and have had to be dealt with based on the variety of sources available - and the sometimes diverse answers.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 234 – Fore Topmast Backstays
 
The four topmast backstays are the same size rope as the lower shrouds, 10½", so the deadeyes and lanyards are also the same sizes.  In the first picture, the forward backstay on the port side has its deadeye clamped for turning in.
 

The lanyards are longer for the backstays than for the shrouds, based on photos of the ship, probably to allow more length for tension adjustment of these longer lines.  The next picture shows this deadeye turned in with a throat seizing as described earlier.
 

The short leg has been turned up and clamped so the two additional round seizings may be added.  In the next picture the aft backstay deadeye height is being set to match the forward stay.
 

In the next picture the lanyards have been threaded and given an initial tension.  Final tensioning of all the topmast shrouds and backstays will await the installation of the forward topmast stays.
 

The last picture shows the model after rigging the topmast backstays.
 

The excess stay length on the starboard are not yet trimmed off.  In the next part the topmast forward stays will be described.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 233 – Fore Topmast Shrouds
 
In the first picture the three deadeyes for the starboard side have been mounted on a piece of thin clear plastic film and this has been secured to the lower deadeyes at the rim of the top.  The somewhat flexible film was used to match the curve of the rim, but this was not really necessary.  The fixture is mainly used to align the top deadeyes but is also helps in the "turning in."
 

 
The three deadeyes have been secured with seizings but the excess thread ends and the excess shroud ends still have to be trimmed off.  The next picture shows the three starboard shrouds secured with their 3" lanyards.
 

 
The lanyards still have to be tensioned and the excess ends wound around the shrouds, but this will wait until the forward topmast stays and the backstays are installed so that all can be tensioned together.  The next picture shows one of the deadeyes on the port side being turned in with the first seizing being tied.
 

 
In the picture a clamp secures the shroud in the groove of the deadeye and another holds the short leg horizontal and tight.  A curved needle is being used to help make the throat seizing that was used just above each deadeye.  In this type of seizing the thread is wrapped over the crossing of the shroud, so the needle is passing through the opening above the deadeye under the front horizontal leg and behind the vertical leg.  This is then repeated and the last pass secured with a clove type finish.  The short end of the shroud is then brought up to vertical and secured to the shroud with two more round seizings on the parallel legs.  The next picture shows all six shrouds secured to the top.
 

 
Finally, a picture of the model with the topmast shrouds and backstays secured.
 
 
 
The fish tackle pendant is still temporarily tied off at its lower end.  The backstays will be described in the next part.
 
 
Ed

The next things to tackle are the cathead supporter and eking rail.  Unfortunately, I left my camera at work so all I have are completed photos, not work in progress.  I will try and describe the process as well as I can.  The cathead supporter is just that, a knee under the cathead which then curves and blends in the lower rail via an intermediary eking rail.  My first step was to lightly draw the curve of the supporter/rail assembly onto the starboard (unplanked) side of the hull.  I made a template of this shape to duplicate the curve on the port side.  Next was to make a template of the angle between the hull and the inferior surface of the cathead.  Both templates were transferred onto an over-sized block of wood and the excess wood was sanded away with a Dremel and sanding sticks.  This is a lot harder than it sounds since the supporter must snug up against the hull as it curves inward anteriorly and outwards inferiorly.  I used the same scraper that was used on the lower rail to carve the decoration into the face of the supporter and, eventually, the eking rail.  Once this had been done, a scarf was cut into the lower aspect of the supporter.  
 
The eking rail was also cut overly thick and offered up to the hull for final shaping.  On Atalanta, the eking rail does not extend above the top of the hawse hole and so is actually one longer piece and two short ones.  I presume this is just for visual effect as there is no structural advantage to these short segments.  The other end of the scarf was cut into the eking rail before the final shaping to ensure a tight fit.  The port side was done in similar fashion, using the curve template from the starboard side to get the curve correct.  I removed the decorative rails to facilitate fabrication of the pieces and then replaced them after the supporter/rail were secured.  Like I did with the the cheeks, I offset the cathead  supporter and rail a plank's thickness from the hull on the starboard side.  The gap between the false rail and the main rail will be filled in with sawdust.  Visually, I thought it more important to have the panel edging the same thickness all around.
 

 

 

 
Now on to something a little less complicated.  I have decided that Atalanta had four seats of ease.  One is out on the carlings and the other is tucked in behind the false rail.  I did not make the ones for the starboard side so that the joinery at the base of the seat could be seen.  As one can see in the first photo, there is a straight shot down through the hole without (theoretically) soiling the rails and cheeks.
 

 

 

 
 

Rusty,
 
Cheerful is looking very sharp!  The deck furniture and rudder look great as does your emerging masts.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Thanks Dirk, Joe, Grant, Pat, and Elia for stopping by and the kind words.  Also thanks everyone for the likes.
 
The mast has been painted and assembled and dry fit back in place.



I'll continue fitting out the yards next. Then it's time to learn to make thimbles and seize line!

Rusty,
 
Cheerful is looking very sharp!  The deck furniture and rudder look great as does your emerging masts.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Rusty,
 
Cheerful is looking very sharp!  The deck furniture and rudder look great as does your emerging masts.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Hi all,
 
Been real busy this summer with vacation, family commitments and working the last 4 weeks
straight hasn't left a lot of time for modeling. I did pop in and out of the shop from time to time
a few minutes at a time.
 
To make the various masts, yards etc I took some boxwood cut into square stock and shaped them.
 



 

 

The mast dry fitted. 

Next I'll be painting and attaching blocks and foot ropes.
 
It's great to be back in the shop and doing what I'm supposed to be doing!
 

It’s time for a long overdue up date. Next up was the rudder.
 
Like other parts I used Chucks Syren laser cut rudder.
The rudder is tapered as it works its way aft. 
Also the forward edge is chamfered on both sides.
 

 

 
 
 
The pintels and grudeons were made made from another Syren kit. The bolts are simulated with 24 gauge wire.
 

 

 

 
Time to make some masts and yards!
 
 
 

Hi All,
 
Well all of the carronades and long guns have been rigged and rope coils placed.

 

 
I also put the pumps in place.
 

 
 
Next up I’ll be doing the rudder and tiller. Thanks for stopping by and all the likes.
 
 

Ed,I have to say,this project is one of the most impressive things I have ever seen.I spent 35 years as a mining geologist working in a very complex mining project at depths some times exceeding 2200 feet.I  have also built a full scale experimental aircraft with a 36 foot wingspan,and have been involved in several others,so I know skill,imagination,and creative thinking when I see it.This work is astounding.There is one thing I would suggest.I have been contemplating that fid.At 6x4x54 inches that is .75 cubic feet of presumably wrought iron which is going to weigh 365 lbs.or thereabout,given a specific gravity of 7.6 - 7.9 for wrought iron.It strikes me that that thing is going to be mean to handle in the narrow,and precarious space at the front end of that top without some way to get a purchase on it to support the weight until it can be slipped through the fid hole in the topmast.How do you suppose those old timers went about it?                Of all the things man has created throughout history,nothing can rival the picture of a clipper ship in Flying Fish weather with all the kites out for sheer beauty in my opinion,for what it's worth.This project gives us a good view of just how they accomplished one of their creations.A grand piece of work!

Thank you all for these comments - and Kevin, my hat is off to you for perseverance if you REREAD all 230+ parts.  I think my eyes would glaze over early in such an effort.  But thank you for your interest.
 
GM02, your comments are more than generous.  When I started this project, I knew I was biting off a lot, but big, complex projects attract me.  It has been four years so far in construction and several months before that in getting a critical mass of early drawings together.  Since I have built relatively few ship models - three including this one - this is still an exploratory effort for me.  There are often fits and starts, but when something works, I am pleased to share it.
 
I very much appreciate your comments on the iron fid.  When I first realized the size of it from the Crothers drawings, and the weight implications, I was taken aback and skeptical.  Further research (Fincham, Mast-Making, 1843) confirmed the sizing - 1/3 the mast diameter in depth for an iron fid, 1/2 for wood and 2/3 width to depth ratio.  It is one big chunk of iron.  As far as rigging and handling this, I do not believe riggers of the time would be too challenged.  Even with the absence of end holes in these lower fids - the upper mast fids have holes in the ends for standing lift shackles - I believe the fid could be lifted with a sling secured at the ends and then pushed or hauled through the hole before lowering the mast on to the trestle trees.  This would be like a toothpick compared to the 82', 22" diameter fore yard loaded with all its ironwork - to say nothing of the larger main yard.  We often tend to underestimate the capabilities of this earlier time.
 
Thanks again for the comments.
 
Ed
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 232 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 3
 
The first picture shows one of the fore topgallant futtock shrouds being lashed to the band below the fore topmast crosstrees. 
 

 
Although they are fitted to the topmast, these shrouds are part of the topgallant shrouds above – hence the somewhat confusing naming.  Each lashing is first tied to the eye, then passed through the eyebolt and eye three times, and then wrapped around itself in the center with a series of clove hitches.  The clove hitches are an effective way to do this on these small lashings – and easier than wrapping a lot of turns while trying to keep the lashing from rotating while still making the turns tight.  The difference is virtually undetectable on these small black lashings.  The next picture shows the four futtock shrouds lashed in place.
 

 
 
With these installed the topmast may be permanently fitted.  The next picture shows the lower end of the installed mast.
 

 
The mast fid is down on the iron plates and a filler piece has been fitted at the forward face to fix the bottom and keep the mast aligned.  Although not strictly necessary, the mast was glued at this point and at the cap.
 
The first piece of rigging to go over the mast is the fish tackle pendant.  This long pendant was used to suspend the triple purchase tackle that was used to lift and handle the anchors.  The pendant is therefore a heavy 8" rope.  It is served around the seized masthead collar.  The lower end has an eye splice with a thimble at its foot
 

 
 The large upper block of the tackle will be hooked through this thimble.  In the picture the pendant is temporarily held taught by some black thread.
 
After the fish tackle, the topmast shrouds are put over the masthead.  In the next picture the shrouds have been placed and held at the foretop with clamps.
 
 

As with the lower shrouds the forward shrouds are fully served.  Serving on the others extends around the mast to just below the futtock shrouds.  The two forward shrouds are a single line that loops over the mast and is seized below the bolsters.  The aft shrouds are single, with a single eye splice served down to the futtock shrouds.  All these collars and eyes are parceled down to the seizings.  The next picture shows a closer view of this.
 

 
Next to go over are the topmast backstays, a pair on each side.  The collars of these are also served and parceled down to the collar seizings.  They are clamped at the channels in the next picture.
 

 
These are large 10½" lines, a looped pair on each side.  The last picture shows the parceling of these before the parceling is "tarred" with black artist's acrylic paint.
 

 
They were removed for this painting after tying the seizings.  With all these lines secured at the top, the next step is to fix them to their deadeyes at the lower ends.
 
 
Ed