Pete38

Next started the keel, keelson and false keel. Sawed and sanded to size using my Byrnes table saw and thickness sander. When cutting the rabbit I used a razor blade shaped to the size. Before I started scrapping with the blade, since I am doing this in 1:32 scale was able to take a lot of the wast out of the rabbit with the table saw. Then I used the blade to final shape the rabbit.



 

Thanks for all your visits, likes and comments.
 
Thanks Augie. Yeah I constantly go huh when I measure the plans and it calls for a piece to be ¼” thick x ½” wide!
 
Thank you Paddy and the same to you and yours!
 
Grant and Joe, I’m only on chucks and already its self centering or not, 2” or 3”, get a combination of both, man talk
about sensory overload. And this is only the start. I haven’t even looked at the other 100 options!
 
Thanks Bob, Yeah if all goes well once I make the barrels I’m sure I’ll use both of them. I also noticed that they
don’t show the blocks or line. Gotta figure out what sizes they should be!
 
Thanks Chris. I can speak to the disk sander and for scratch work I wouldn’t be without it. I’m just glad to see you
can get some time to spend on the Confederacy with those cute kids of yours.
 
Here are the plans for the mortar carriage and the pieces cut from swiss pear and ready for shaping.
 

 

 

Hello hello!
 
Looks like with this brand new year a few people is getting back to the full model practicum… Randall, Guy, Richard…
 
Just a little thought. Making the frames and gluing them was pretty tedious. Once the hull is done the complex of the work ahead goes higher and higher meaning more and more fun… You can move on more different thinks. You can start with the keelson, the limber strake, the thick stuff, the platforms, the deck clamps,,, you can start measuring the plans and making little structures inside… And you can move from one work to another. Sometimes I spend the day at the living room just making scarfs on the beams or on the ledges and the workshop is close. So I encourage all of you to complete the milestone of completing the hull. The shape and the size of her are really nice.
 
Anyway… Here´s the result of the fore plat and the work done so far. I love pics not like you guys with all that words and literaure...!  pics, pics we love pics! come On!!
 

 

 

 
I could not resist taking these shots of all the platforms done so far… Are all set but I have to finish the hawse pieces first, the L.D. clamp and faired the exterior.
 

 

 

 
 
Richard, I recommend you to finish the hawse frames, you might become lazy like it has happened to me. It´s a quite tricky piece to do. Indeed, after writing this, this morning, I have started the left piece on the portside…
 

 
...
 
 
Best wishes!
 
Daniel.

Happy New Year to all of you!
 
Hi Grant, Like I’ll have any issues wanting to get more accessories! OK I’ve been looking at the 
three and four jaw chucks and I realize that I will eventually need both types. The one thing I am
unsure about is if the self centering chucks are better than the regular jaws chucks. From what
I’ve read self centering is nice and handy but the independent jaws allow for more “accuracy”.
What types do you use?
 
Hi Ben, Thanks for stopping by. As I said above I will get a 4 jaw chuck just not sure which type
yet. You know you don’t have to wait. We can take that plunge together!
 
OK onto the fun stuff.
 
Here is the starboard side with all the assorted ring bolts in place. I made them from some 20 gauge
wire I had on hand.
 

 
I also figured I don’t need cannon barrels to make the carriages so I started on them. They are
made from swiss pear. I made two just in case I decided to add a second cannon. I figured it was
easier to make them together instead of having to go back and make a second one.
 
 

 

 

 

 

Hello!
 
No kids around for one entire day… they are at my mum´s house and the Admiral reading… Peace on earth and much more time to spend modelling!
 
I have glued together all the pieces of the fore platform. I am quite happy with the result. I still have to sand it and clean it a little bit. I´ll do it this afternoon.
 
No literature, just a bunch of pics.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Happy day!
 
 
Daniel.

Thanks for your kind words Tim.
 
The sheer rails have been added as well as some of the cleats the plans call for.
Next I have to make a bunch of ring bolts and then the gun carriages. No Guns
yet but I might as well as start on the carriages
 

 

 
Also the quest for a lathe continues. I have ordered the Tabletop Machining
book by Joe Martin and will read up on lathe usage as well as annoying some
of you with dumb questions.

Paddy, thanks. I apologise for the slow reply.
I didn't meet the Christmas deadline, should only be about 2 weeks over. I spent a lot of time on the base board, well worth the effort in the end. Progress pictures........
 

 
Grant.

Hello All! Hope you are having nice days…
 
I am dealing with the fore platform. I did the aft one using the method of doing it backwards. I am building the fore one seeing the whole piece from above. It has been easier for me because I can actually see all the joints and I have been able to clean them with a wet brush the excess of glue.
Like the aft plat… The number of parts involve are amazing…:
 
6 beams, 16 ledges, 54 carlings, 10 Knees, and 29 mortises on the beams, 20 on the Knees, 54 on the ledges… I cannot imagine how many pieces and mortises are going to have the lower deck or the gun deck.
 

 
First I glue the beams with a small amount of glue at the ends of the beams to the plan. I mark the scarfs of the ledges. I mark the center line with a blade and a pencil (I use a rubber to remove the excess of “pencil” I just one a sharp black line on the beam). I remove the beams and cut the scarfs with an x-acto blade. I have printed another plan for the next stage.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Second, after gluing again the beams I set the lodging knees in between them. Naming the different pieces it is crucial.  It was a quite tedious,,, sanding and trying, sanding again and put them together against the beams. The disc sander was pretty useful. I glue the knees with a small amount of glue and finally I mark the scarfs with a pencil on all the Knees and the ledges for the carlings following the plan.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Third, I cut the ledges using a blade and set them all together, not glued yet. You can either go in one way or another but I started making the scarfs on the ledges. Once the scarfs were all completed I started to glue them to the beams using spacers (0.05mm timber) to ensure the ledge it´s leveled. I put a plastic sheet underneath in order to remove the excess of PVA and not glue the thing to the paper plan. Remember that I am doing it from above…
 
 
 
 
 
Fourth, I cut the carlings using a blade. I am not using spacers but cutting the carling slightly inclinated in the “Z” axis and with some tweezers I glued it with no problem at all.
The Fifth stage will be to print out another plan and by using spacers glue the beams to the knees. The different in height is about 1mm. I have measure it with a caliper.
 
 
 

 
 
At the same time I am gluing the thick stuff and put in together the lower deck clamp.
 

 

 
 
Best wishes and Happy Happy New Year to all of you!!
 
 
 
Daniel
 
 
(and forget about modelling!! at least for two days...)

HO HO HO !
 
Here in Spain till December 22th – with the lottery day- we don´t “start” Christmas time, at least me, but anyway Happy Days to All!!. (I hate Christmas)
 
The Triton is growing and growing. I am having lots of fun with the interior works but the lower deck clamp has being feeling kind of pain in the neck. ¡’?·”@... cut the pattern, cut it, sand it, boiled it, let it dry, boiled again, clamp it… anyway four more pieces to go…
 
I made some clamps like Ed. I couldn´t find the screws and stuff Ed used to do his clamps but these work just right. They are not so fancy but I´m proud of them.
 

 

 

 
My intention is to make kind of a cross section amidships (thanks Rusty) and let a lot of spaces around to see the Structure, the ribs, the frames… We´ll see.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Here´s a pdf of the scarf for the thick stuff I am using in this kind of cross section. The scarf in the middle of the timber is being simulated with a blade and a pencil.
 
to be edit-
 
Right now I am working with the pump box (cad) cause is the next part I´ll do after the f deck clamp. The plant plan and the sheer plan are not aligned so I guess I´ll have to make a shortcut to somewhere…
 

 
Back to the workshop!
 
 
 
Daniel.

Hi Rob, Thanks for the screw idea!
 
Mike, As you said it will take a long time I think as some parts require the removal of 1/4"
or more of material. That's a whole lot of sanding and filing.
 
Ok the planking in board is complete. As I mentioned before I used red heart.
I also cut some thin veneers to line the inside of the gun ports. I did not think
far enough ahead for the sweep ports so they will be painted red to match. They
are so small I don't believe anyone will know the difference.
 
That is except for all of you.  
 

 

 
 

Hello Richard!
 
To be honest with you I have moved to the platforms cause I was starting to feel pretty bored with the hull. I have to faired the exterior (the interior is done) but I need to strength it. That´s why I need that lower deck clamp done plus the other strake underneath it. When I started to mark the decks inside one thing went into another and I endend makig the platforms...
 
The hawse pieces and the deck clamp was exhausting me so I decided to move on and start a part to have a little bit of fun. I thought about making the oven...but I chose the platform.
 
More pics tomorow! The Admiral is around supervising...
 
Have a good day! (the rest of it)
 
 
Daniel.

Hello All!
 
And when I say all I mean it. Those who click on the “like” tab and the ones those actually write something. Richard!! Glad to see your Triton growing and growing and mini-you going smaller and smaller with all that frames above you.
 
After doing some surgery with the platform, cleaning all that glue and removing like eight carlings, the refurnished piece looks good to me.
 
I have moved to do the “floor doors” for the fish and spirituous drinks. The wood for the frames is blood wood (2x3.5mm). The cover is ramin (0.6mm thick) and the transoms underneath walnut (2x2). These transoms are not going to be visible but God sees everything…
 
I have tried Ed´s method to simulate the caulking mixing the glue with dark acrylic paint and it worked out! I rasp the excess of glue with a sharp file just on the visible side.
 
I made a sketch of what I´m intended to do. The hinges will need some thinking but probably I´ll cheat and make them with evergreen plastic stuff. I have no equipment and room to be soldering around. Photoetched parts? I´d love to do them but I´m kind of broke and the etched parts are not cheap.
 
Here are some shots.
 

Cutting the scarfs using an aluminum jig.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
This last one is from one of the kitties haunting little mousses. I could not resist to put this pic dealing with the fish room and the limber right now on the Triton. Not everything is wood and timber… 
 
best wishes.
 
 
Daniel.

Thanks Augie, Yes the holly, like all the wood from Hobby Mill, is really nice and fun to work with.
 
Thanks Chuck much appreciated.
 
Hi Bob, Thanks and your Essex is coming along very nicely too!
 
I have completed planking half of the gun deck. One plank had to be notched to fit around the hatch.
It doesn’t adhere to planking procedures and it is a little too thin but close enough. There won’t be
any rot issues anyways. At least I hope not!  
 

 

 

 

 
 
The hatch has not beeen glued in place yet as I have to sand and scrape the deck, treenail and seal it.

Hello shipmates.
 Another long update :-
Spent a little time making a ropewalk. but this one is a little larger than the Philips shaver on I have used before.
The shaver would not stand twisting the heaver ropes that I wanted for this model.
The parts are from Ebay. Approx  2 hours to build.
A simple servo tester, A cheep brushless speed controller, And a brushless motor.
Gears used ..1 off 60mm dia 58 teeth, 3 off 20mm dia 18 teeth, 1 off 14mm Dia 12 teeth.

 

Yes I have used miniature thrust bearings as I has them in my storage box.

That’s about it for the Ropewalk.
 
Now for the Build
A test of the Tulip wood and the different types of caulking that I am using for the deck planking

 
little loop on the wire ends for the Led lanterns to hang from.

 
Wire hidden in the wood. Cut a line with the razor saw then push the brass wire into the slot.

Main Gundeck in place But not glued. Bits missing are left out to enable deck to fit between the frames.
 
 
View from the bottom.

 
Completed Deck with out planking.(bottom view)

 
Completed Deck with out planking.(top view)

 
some of the furniture ready for assembly.

 
close up of Joinery.

 
Odd photo

 
Completed Deck with out glue

 
That’s it for now
 
Enjoy.
Thanks for looking in Antony.
 
 
 

Hello all,
I received my Swan book - what wealth of information that is! A good buy.
Additionally, I have been installing frames from stem to stern and am now working on the bow cant frames.
I feel I need to install these cant frames first so that I have a reference line for the bollard and the pieces that go before it. It should be an easier task to just fill in the gap rather than start with the bullard and then make frame W.
So below is my progress so far. Mini-me has made a return to help with scale. I have glued the pieces together for the cant frames and have just placed them in their position to see how they look. I will begin fairing them soon to a point close to their final shape then I can start the filler pieces and the bollard.
Please pardon all of the rubber bands. They are trapped on the frames but will be cut off when the cant frames are done at both ends. They are still needed to hold the model in place when I glue in the final frames.
Richard
 

Hello and happy Monday! (Written in the morning)
 
After finishing the aft platform for the fish and the spirituous drinks I am moving to do the magazine. I have been thinking a lot during the construction of this platform. With all that amount of pieces and mortises to be done I´m going to “cut” a little bit the project cause I´m not sure if I´ll end it in 2018…
 
Anyway I have redone the magazine plan this morning. The big difference is that I have divided the magazine boxes in four instead of five. I am not sure if I am going to make the cabins so I´ll attach two plans, one with the structure and the other with the beams and the plant of the cabins… I´m much more interested in the structure than the inner rooms.
 
Here is the pdf´s.
 
.- no cabins: Decks_fore_popa_plattform_V02_ok.pdf
 
.- with cabins: Decks_fore_popa_plattform_V02__cabin_ok.pdf
 
Joss here´s the pic about those tricky pieces of the LwDeck clamps. They have been unglued for almost a week and they have held the shape.
 

 

 
 
Monday bloody afternoon Monday! (U2) could be a version..))
 
Afternoon, I have finished the platform. The result is totally awful on the joints. A disaster.
 
 I will repeat the whole piece. Will not work again with that backward method. What works for someone does not always work for everyone. You go totally blind on the visible side. That´s it. That´s the question. To be or not to be… Three days to the trash bin.
 
I want to see the glue going into the carlings and them going into the ledges and the ledges into the beams.
 
Anyway here´s the pics...
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 
I´ll go this way. mortices in a 3x2mm sq timber can be done and I wil work seeing the whole piece from above.
 
 
Daniel.

This is the model as she sits now.

Hi Hi Captains!! And All!
 
Winter has come. Best place to stay our workshops… minus ten today in Soria. Uff!
 
Back here in Madrid and the platform pieces done. All set but not glued.
 
Mark, those tricky pieces have changed a little bit, I´ll post some pics tomorrow. I wanted to do the deck clamp with scarfs so I unglued the stuff and cut the scarfs.
 
Joss, I guess the secret it´s just to let the piece dry and dry. I did leave it for 24 hours and it holds the shape perfectly. Next time I´ll put some wood spacers between the peace and the nails. The pin has “harmed” the timber and I have had to sand it. For the camber beams I will cut them with the scroll saw but for this the steam has worked for me.
 
Here are just two shots of the set

 

 
 

 
Daniel.

Hello hello!
 
Today is friday, is party here in Spain. The Constitution day.  Three days ahead with the Admiral and the kids around… Worst enemies for a modeler.
 
I have started the aft platform just to “forget” a little bit the tedious work with the limber strakes and the thick stuff. Soon I have realized that only this little platform is a model kit itself… 36 pieces and 58 scarfs… I repeated the lodging knees twice mainly because the scarfs. How I envy you guys with those sherline or proxxon machines!! I´m using an x-acto blade and a rasp.

 

 

 

 
I am using Antony´s (1:36 Victory cross section) method for the platform. To do it backwards. One goes blind. I am not sure how the joints are working in the other side caused I cannot see them and it´s the part that is going visible. Let´s see how it works out. I am using this cause the platform is “flat”. Do not know how will work with the camber beams of the rest of the decks.
                                  
 I have also start with the lower deck clamp to strength the hull in the half of her.
 
The piece is quite tricky. It´s bend it in two directions. First I tape the part with scotch tape (that kind you can write on it with a pencil). Then I drew the pattern. Cut, sanded it and boiled in water for about 15 minutes. Then I let it dried in a sort of jig for 24 hours. It took me two days to glue both in place.
 

 

 

 
I am going for a walk with the sailors and the Admiral.
 
Enjoy the day!
 
Daniel.

The framing plan is now almost done (bar some of the cants at the rudder end by the keel..
 

 
So basically I have got back to the stage I had reached when the site crashed... One difference you will note is that I have utilised the Foredeck bulwarks (allowing I have the terminology correct). Most of the paintings (definitely from the Lissa period at least) show her with these and my framing plan did include them though the sheer did not.
 
Next up is the fish plan (as I like to call it)
 
Joss

Hello boys and girls around Model ship World!
 
Joe, are you in another topic on this forum about 3D drawing? I have ACAD 2011 but I do not know how to use the “lofting” tab. I guess it is harder the 3D with AutoCAD but do you think that the task could be accomplished using 3dCAD? (please send me the icon for the lofting thing so I can know where to find it, my version is Spanish) I have no Solidworks and looks like I am not going to have it for a while…
 
A small progress during this weekend was done. I have redone the pdf´s for the symmetrical hawse timbers. They are already uploaded on the post about it.
 
The thick stuff plus the different pieces are going quite slowly. That is why I am moving to other things like marking the deck clamps for the lower deck. It took me like one hour or more to set the first pattern in place measuring and measuring again with the square sets.
 
Anyway here are some pics…
 

 

 

 
 

 
This last one is dedicated to Piet. All our workshops tend to look like a mess. I am going to put at least one day in the week schedule to tidy up and clean. With the amount of tiny chips and pieces of timber the table is starting to look like a circus rather than a proper log…
 
Happy Monday!
 
Daniel.

Thank you all for stopping in and the likes.
 
Thanks Bob, you never know what kind of oops or such that could pop
up and ruin the day.
 
I have competed the framing of the gun deck. Pretty straight forward and
at this size it turned out to be a lot easier to do.
 

 

 
 
Next in the mortar pit the walls need to be built. There are angles involved
and I didn’t trust myself to build it off the model and keep the correct
dimensions. Also there are four cross braces between the beams that
need to be put in.
 

 
So to help me keep it square and position the cross bracing correctly I clamped
the side walls in place and then started fitting the angles. This way once
completed I can mark the cross bracing, remove the walls, install the bracing
and then return the wall to it's correct location.
 

 
Here is just the top piece of the wall confirming the angle and length are correct.
 

 

 
 
Time will tell if this will work or not.  

Hello Shipmates.
Another update on the Lower gundeck.
Basic assembly done just the Deck carlings to machine and fit into place.
No Gluing done at this stage.. Just good old tight joints.
 
Sides being treenailed.

 
 
And the other side.

 
View from the underside of the deck.

 
View from the Top side.

 
Close up of a joint.

 
No Glue or pins in this yet .

 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Thank you Michiel.
 
I've been making good progress on the deck framing. It sure helps having cut the parts ahead of time!
 

 

 

 

 
It still will need a good sanding to fair it all up but so far so good!  

Arrgh!
 
Sometimes while you are posting,,, and you have attached all the pics and write everything… suddenly inet says “no” and all the work and effort go to the trash bin.Anyway, we are just dealing with ceros and ones not with wood.
 
Thanks very much Pete! Nice place you live. I have just checked it out on google maps and looks beautiful. Lots of forest to make model ship building or Bourbon barrels…
 
Christian!! Where are you?! How is the HMS Pegasus going?
 
Sometimes one feels so alone here in the “Complete Model” forum…
 
Here´s the work done so far during these two last days.
 
 
 
As you can see the top beams (4x4mm) at the ends of the frames were pretty helpful to glue the limber strake.
 

 
Here´s a shot of the two strakes glued. Took me two days. Meanwhile I was cutting more patterns, studying the plans and sanding the hawse pieces.

 
And here is where I am moving on… the fore and aft platforms. I have to buy a small level to ensure the platforms are leveled. It is a device quite expensive. Made in Japan.
 
 
Hope to post more tomorow. Fingers Cross.
 
 
Daniel.