Jeronimo

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

THE BOAT


of Caroline



Not a film from Petersen ......................it´s  built by Tarjack


The screenplay





The scene scripts





The main roles



The left and the right hand of the D/T ...................................................... arjack
 

Bovine bone
Saw
Jigsaw
etc.
etc.
pp
 
 
 
 
The Set
 
 

 
 
 
Regie
 
 
 

 
 
 



Now for the movie ............ .................................. ääääähhheehe the building report

Usually here comes the chick with the cold drinks and the great ..................................... Eyes. What have you been thinking again ........................ piglets

During the planking of the boat I have taken no pictures.  (yesiknowbymyselfitspity)
The material has been lost in the editing room.   (whobelives)

In the first photo you can see how the frames are bent into shape after cooking. For this, the strips can be pinned on the form block for the boat and after drying they stay in shape. They are then glued. The frames are divided into two. The floor timbers are prepared in situ. The preformed ribs could be fit without problems.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The installation of the floor boards, Wash-board, thwarts and Remmleisten I did ...... but unfortunately not photographed (yeahyeahallwaysthesamestory) :angry:
 
 
 
 
 


But now jahaa enough photos that goes well.
Install the knee to support the thwarts was a real hassle.

 

The Boat-rudder- blade, of course combed into two parts was a great experience again.
 
 
 
 

The tiller a little challenge.
 
   
 

The bracket for the mast looks quite good, is not it.
 



The Stern-sheets and the side covers were also in line.
 
 


In between sample seats for the crew ...... * lol *
 
 



Then remove the sloppiness and make new: Customize grating clean. Gunwale back down and re-done, because wrong, this time with oarlocks. Set the Thwartknee to the correct position.
 
 
 

The Thole-boards were a real challenge. Tiny, shaped in three directions, with stop bar!
Then the fitting and final assembly this time right Gunwale.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Now a few settings using "director's cut" of the repairs of fixtures. (Botch eliminate)
 
   
 

Again a few parts for the box of memories!
 
 
 


The flagpole:
 


The flagpole with 4 hex taper is made from the blank. Then from the 4 hex to 8 hex, and now  in the lathe.
Looks good does not it?
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Even turned the mast and mast trunks and leadership of the shell is finished, lacking only the turned wooden knob at the top.

TATAAAA there he is.
 



The rudder also still needs the finishing touches


And in the end the whole thing, the crown is placed
 
       
 
 
 
 
 
CUUUUUUUUUUUUT
 
 
The  Take
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
Dear Congregation, I hope that you have enjoyed the "film".
A continuation of the movie series is in progress
 
So long and have fun
 
 
 
 

more

more

more

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 131 – Capstan 2
Posted 4/17/12
 
Continuing the work on the capstan, I decided to make the three heads next – the drumhead at the top, the trundle head on the upper deck and the pall head at the base, just above the lower step. In the first picture a block of European Boxwood has been set up in the independent 4-jaw chuck.
 
 

 
The piece is rough centered for this by adjusting each of the four jaws until the four corners of the square work piece just touch the bit when rotated. A dead center is being used in the tailstock to make a center mark on the piece. This will be used for measurements and any boring. The wood block is a roughly ¾” cube and is set up with the grain direction perpendicular to the lathe centerline.
 
In the next picture the square has been turned to a round and the face has been squared off. It was then flipped end for end and re-chucked – this time in the 3-jaw centering chuck.
 
 

 
This chuck switch is made so the piece can be removed and still be on center when re-chucked – and also because my indexing head can take the 3-jaw chuck. The square end was then turned to a round, center-marked and the end faced off square. Sorry if I am belaboring this, but there were some questions last time on centering, so I hope this is useful. This piece will become the drumhead.
 
In the next picture the piece with the 3-jaw chuck has been set up in the milling machine on the 48-tooth indexing head.
 
 

 
The 12 square holes for the arms are being cut to half depth. The process is the same as was used for the steering wheel so I won’t repeat all the steps. After this the end that will become the top was parted off in the lathe. The remaining piece was then returned to the mill and similar cuts made. These scored faces were then glued together with their grain crossed for final turning as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Before joining the two parts - the chucked lower part only - was bored on center. This hole will either be converted to a square mortise or simply mounted on a turned stub on the top of the barrel. In the next picture the drumhead turning is just about finished.
 
 

 
There are iron reinforcing rings let into the top and bottom just inside the perimeter. A circular score has been cut for the top ring. The turning has been polished with steel wool. The head will now be parted off at its final thickness – 11”.
 
The next picture shows the drumhead with its iron (copper) ring set in the top score.
 
 

 
The picture also shows the pall head, which was a lot simpler to make– one disk only. It is reinforced with a ring like the one on the drumhead, but also an iron band around the outside. The top and bottom rings were photo-etched. The band on the outside of the pall ring is just a strip. At this stage the rings on the pall head have been glued on with medium CA and also bolted with 12 small diameter (22 gauge) stretched copper wire nails each.
 
The last picture shows the pall head placed over the upper deck step. It fits just inside the pall ring. It still needs its four palls to be made and fitted.
 
 

In this picture the ironwork on the pall head has been blackened. In preparation for this the copper was polished and the assembly cleaned thoroughly with acetone and a Q-tip to remove any traces of excess CA. The copper was then brushed with liver of sulfur and washed with water. Although there is a hole in this piece I have not decided how these will be attached to the barrel yet. The trundlehead will have to be cut to fit over the 12-sided barrel, but the other two heads could simply be fit over a turned end, since the joints will not show.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 132 – Pump Cranks
Posted 5/1/12
 
A lot of things have been getting between me and the shipyard in the past two weeks, but some progress has been made. In the picture below two self-standing stanchions have been fabricated from sheet copper and installed at the forward end of the main hatch.
 
 

 
Long straight rods the same diameter as the final crankshafts were used to maintain a straight line through all the bearings. In the next picture the stanchions have been blackened and the fabricated crank parts are being test fit.
 

 
The collars at the ends of the crank were made by drilling a hole into the side of a piece of tubing, which had been filed square on the outside. The ends of the cranks were then silver soldered into these holes. The tubing segment was then re-bored to fit the shaft material. Below, both cranks over the hatch have been blackened and installed.
 

 
This picture shows a few additional beams installed aft of the pump area. The next picture shows two of the iron knees on these beams before bolting and blackening.
 

 
These beams needed to be installed concurrently with the iron stanchions that support them and also support bearings for the after end of the pump cranks. Two of these stanchions are shown in the next picture.
 
 

 
There will be two more of these under the beam that will support the forward end of the quarterdeck capstan step. These were removable to clear the capstan bars when in use on the upper deck capstan head. The next picture shows the extant of the quarterdeck beams installed so far.
 

 
Finally, I realized that almost all the pictures for some time have been interior close ups, so I included two pictures showing the full model at this stage.
 
 

 
This was a rare moment when the workspace was clear of the usual litter. This shows the partially planked starboard side. The last picture shows the port side, which will be left unplanked.
 

 
If the lighting and coloring in these pictures seem a bit inconsistent, it is because I am switching over to a new camera and undergoing some startup learning.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 133 – Upper Deck continued
Posted 5/7/12
 
 
First, thanks to all for your continued generous comments.
 
It has been a lot of small “baby steps” lately. The sequence is complicated by various access problems. The decking in the captain’s cabins cannot be done until the half beams are installed and they must await the rigging of the tiller. That cannot be done until the wheel is mounted, and that in turn awaits the installation of quite a few deck beams. I had to install the decking under all of the beams to that point because once the beams are installed the decks cannot be treenailed – but the area in the captain’s cabins cannot be decked yet. The solution was to end the port side upper deck planking at the forward partition of the captain’s cabin then install the rest later. This unauthentic break in the planks will be covered by the cants that anchor the bottom of the partition and thus not visible. The first picture shows the planking being installed and the break at the ledge just aft of the tiller rope sheaves.
 
 

 
The ropes run down from the wheel to these sheaves and thus pass right in front of the partition. In the next picture this planking has been treenailed.
 
 

 
There are still some damp spots from washing the treenail glue off and the nail heads have not been leveled off. This is the full extent of the planking to be installed in this area forward of the future partition, except for one or two center planks just forward of the rope sheaves. In the next picture the decking has been filed and sanded flush and smooth.
 
 

 
The deck ring bolts for the three gun ports in this picture have also been installed. I have to be sure and remember the shot racks before installing overhead beams. The next picture shows two more beams added.
 
 
 

 
More iron knees of various shapes to avoid the ports and the riders. There is one not visible behind the top rider to the left. The last beam is still loose and the knees for the two ahead of it still have to be bolted – interesting drilling problem. The last picture shows the current state.
 
 

 
There will be two iron pillars under the aftermost quarterdeck beam beam in this picture. These will also support bearings for the aft end of the third set of pump cranks. A ladderway interferes with the starboard set of these cranks and would also interfere with the capstan bars, so it must have been removable to allow clearance for these when needed.
 
Cheers all,
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 134 – Upper Deck continued/Stern detailing
Posted 5/25/12
 
 
Again it has been quite a while since the last update, but I can assure you I have been on the job.  It has taken some time though, to get visible progress.  The beam setting on the quarterdeck has proceeded and this is shown in the first few pictures, but that had to be discontinued because of some construction sequence issues.  First, since I am making the capstan in one piece it needs to be installed before the beam aft of it – or it won’t fit.  Also, since I want to invert the model to do the detailing of the stern galleries, I did not want to install the capstan or the wheel before doing that – to prevent them from possible damage while the model was upside down.  This took me on a long detour to draft the structural detail of the stern and quarter galleries and to design the decoration for them.  I will describe this below. 
 
The first picture shows the last beam to be installed before moving to the stern work.
 

 
The two removable iron pillars have been installed under this beam with the bearings for the pump cranks.  There is a ladder way forward of the capstan and a picture taken during its fabrication is shown below.
 
 

 
The next picture shows the ladder installed.
 
 

 
So, on to the work on the stern.  I needed to do quite a bit of research to understand and draft the stern structure, especially the quarter galleries, which are not descri9bed well in Steel or in the contracts.  Goodwin and White were a big help, but the structure is complex and everything is curved, so it took a while – and a whole new drawing - to get it drafted for building.  The modeling of this will be described later.
 
The priority for the next phase will be the stern galleries, including their decoration.  Since there is no decoration plan available for Naiad, the model decoration will be speculative.  Naiads were mythological fresh water nymphs, so the decoration needs to follow that theme.  There will be five figures on the stern galleries, one on each quarter post and three on the taffrail.  The evolving arrangement can be seen in the following pictures.
 
The first picture shows a pattern for one of the figures being pasted to a thick block of European boxwood.
 
 

 
The basis for this figure is a painting by Henrietta Rae - a 19th century artist specializing in romanticized mythological themes.  It depicts a reclining  nymph gazing down into a pool from  a bank.  The quarter piece figures are based on a painting by Arthur Hacker – same period, same subjects.  These won’t be needed until later.  The central figure in this picture is a water lily, but will likely be changed to the figure shown below – also a nymph.
 
After the outline of the figure was cut out from the block on a scroll saw, the shape was sliced into multiple slabs for the bas-relief carving.  The picture below shows two mirror-imaged pieces.
 

 
Patterns have been applied to both, and both have been glued to a base using wood glue with a layer of paper between so they can be easily removed later.  The next picture shows the carving just about complete – if it ever will be – for the three taffail figures.
 
 
 

 
There are couple of practice figures in the picture.  They helped define the carving issues and final sizing.  The last picture shows a closeup of the two mirrored figures.
 

 
Carving these two together was my best idea yet.  It made it a lot easier to keep them as identical as possible.  I won’t go through all the steps here.  They are quite small for my eyes and my increasingly unsteady hands so I wanted to make sure I could get something acceptable before putting a stamp on the design.
 
They may be small, but they certainly involved the use of more tools per square inch of wood than any other work I’ve done.  The picture below was not posed and more tools were brought to bear after it was taken.  This array is a sure sign of someone without a process.
 

 
By the way,  this picture shows the Henrietta Rae picture used – with modifications – as a source.  With these carvings done, I feel reasonably comfortable with the design, so the construction of the stern can begin.
 
 
Ed
 
 

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

T e i l  4

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

T e i l  4