Erebus and Terror

FAIRING THE HULL
 
I haven't posted in many weeks, but I have been busy working on preparing Terror's hull for planking. I've been relatively obsessive about this aspect of my build, because getting the shape of Terror right has been a real challenge. She was modified so many times (and had so many layers of planking), that her hull shape was somewhat of a mystery to me (at least at the bow and stern). However, I think I've reached a stage where I can move forward. 
 
Below I'll present the steps in the process and what I learned about Terror (and Erebus), as I worked. 
 
 
 

Before I could begin faring the hull, it was necessary to fill in the 
stern and bow of the model using filling blocks. I created these 
from 1/4" plywood, laser cut using measurements from the 
ship's plans. This image displays the three starboard filling 
blocks used at the bow. 
 
 

The filling blocks were carved to shape using card 
guides cut to match the lines of the half breadth plan. 
 
 

Placing the filling blocks side-by-side as they were carved ensured that they 
were symmetrical. The lamination in the plywood was also helpful
 in this regard. However, plywood is a poor carving material, 
and I would think twice about using it again.
 
 

In 1839, the solid chock (ice) channels on Terror were extended around the bow. I 
constructed these from several layers of basswood. 
 
 

These chocks were then shaped to match the proper cross section of the channels. 
 
 

The ice channels were glued in place on the bow and scrap wood 
was used to rough out the bulwark shape. The excessive
use of glue didn't escape Mini-Crozier's critical eye. 
 
 

The gaps in the bulwarks were filled using basswood strips of appropriate thickness. 
 
 

Rather than filling and sanding seams and gaps, basswood leveling strips 
were applied to the upper surface of the ice channels. The channels
were then filed to shape using card stock templates. Scrap wood was 
used to fill in any large gaps in the bulwarks. 
 
 

The completed bow just prior to sanding. I checked the symmetry 
and level of each side of the ice channel obsessively with a height 
gauge while the model was still on its building board. The
asymmetry of the filling stock used to shape the bulwarks 
is a product of the odds and ends in my spoil bin, and while 
unsightly, it won't be visible when the model is planked. 
 
 

This image shows the faired forward bulkheads and bow filling blocks, just prior to final
sanding. The merchant-like shape of Terror's bow and the imposing nature of the ice 
channel grafted to it can be seen in this view. Note how far the ice channel 
overhangs the bow relative to the port side of the ship; this is because it 
sits on three layers of planking, including a layer of 3" lower planks,
 a second layer of 8" planks, and a third layer 
of even thicker reinforcing planks. 
 
 

An image of the faired stern, detailing the single filling block used 
in this area. The stern rabbet is in the process of being finalized
in this image. 
 
 

With the hull faired, the stern timbers could be installed. These 
were laser cut from Swiss pear.  The outermost stern timbers, 
on the left, were cut in two sections, as they form an angle 
when installed correctly. 
 
 
Prior to describing how the stern timbers were installed, it is important to note how this area of the ship was designed by Oliver Lang, the shipwright who refit Erebus and Terror for the Franklin Expedition. Because of  the massive size of the propeller well and the rudder post which formed its aft wall, Lang had little room left to fit the six stern timbers and four stern lights (windows) in the counter. His solution can be seen in the 1845 Erebus and Terror stern model in the collection of the National Maritime Museum, in Chatham. 

Inspection of the propeller well in that model shows that the stern timbers were actually used to form side walls of the well. However, they could not be fayed directly to the sides of the rudder post as this wouldn't leave enough space for the stern lights (windows). This meant that the stern timbers had to be inset into the sides of the rudder post by three inches to form the side walls of the propeller well. Remarkably, Lang achieved all of this with almost no modification of Terror's existing stern framing. With the rudder post locked directly into the two central stern timbers, the whole structure was incredibly robust.  It is important to note that the inset stern timbers may not have been needed on Erebus, which had a slightly wider counter than Terror. 
 
 

Simplified plan of Terror's counter architecture. Note how the stern timbers overlap 
the rudder post. Also noteworthy is the position of the upper deck transom, 
which could be fayed directly to the aft side of the rudder post in this configuration. 
 
 

In this image, the slot/inset for the stern timber has been cut into the rudder 
post. Note how it is level with the interior sides of the propeller well. 
 
 

A view from the aft side of the rudder post showing the insets for the stern timbers. 
Note the square slots in the stern filling blocks cut to accept the heels of the stern timbers 
(no wing transom was required for construction for this stage).
 
 

Checking the fit with a stern timber. This won't be visible in the finished model. 
 
 

Checking alignment. 
 
 

The stern timbers were fitted with the help of a jig. The jig was designed to be
clamped to the bulwarks, using the station lines printed on it as guides. 
 
 

Detail of the aft part of the jig. 
 
 

A height gauge was necessary to ensure that the jig was properly aligned along its aft margin. 
This gauge slid tightly over the aft support of the building board, using the tracks on the left. 
 
 

The jig and height gauge in place, with the center two stern timbers 
installed and clamped. 
 
 

"Wing transom" filling pieces. These are not entirely accurate architecturally 
(they are more like half-transoms), but were carved and sanded to shape 
to provide a platform for planking the stern. 
 
 

The "wing transom" in place. Note the very slight curve in the transom. As confirmed 
by the 1845 stern model and the 1839 model of Erebus, Terror's 
stern was very square indeed. 
 
 

Rough transverse framing was installed to support the stern timbers. This 
framing is not accurate to plan or scale but rather simply supports the structure
and will not be visible when the model is planked. See the above plan for the
 correct framing. As with the bow, I obsessively relied on a height gauge to 
ensure the entire structure was level and square. 
 
 

A port side view, detailing the stern architecture. Note how the stern 
timbers adjoined the propeller well and rudder post. 
 
 

The completed stern.
 
 
Completing the construction and fairing of the model's stern was a milestone for my project. Not only is the model now ready for planking, finishing this stage of the build revealed a minor mystery surrounding how Lang planked Terror's stern . Lang's 1845 stern refit plan stated that an "....additional part of the wale [was] added to the after end of the ship to form the well or trunk..." for the propeller. Unfortunately, his plan does not reveal if both layers of planking were extended to accomplish this (Terror was double planked against the ice). However, with the construction of this part of the model, his solution became clear to me.

If my model is correct, then it shows that the first layer of Terror's hull planking did not need to be modified in any way by Lang.  In fact, it could simply be left in place, terminating at the edge of the lower counter, as was typical of bomb vessels. Again, if my model architecture is correct, then it shows that Lang could have just extended the second layer of planking to the rudder post. The 1845 stern model shows that this planking rose straight up the rudder post and, when it hit the counter, turned to trace a graceful arc, running from the upper end of the stern rabbet to the lowest portion of the counter at the sides (these planks were fayed directly to the previously planked counter). Lang's stern plan shows that the second layer abutted a beveled margin plank on the counter, although this isn't detailed on his stern model. 
 
 

My planking plan for Terror's stern. The red lines show the lower planking, while 
the white lines show the upper level of planking. The overlap of the planks 
accords well with the 1839 midships section for Erebus and Terror. 
 
 

The current condition of Terror. She's just about ready for planking. 
 
 

A view from the upper deck. 

Had some downtime this weekend so I made some of the frames and bulkheads.  Still have to cut out the notches for the keel and make a few more frames and bulkheads for the bow area.  As I mentioned the bulkheads will be used starting where the canted frames begin.  I also need to start thinking of the type of wood for the hull planking, keel & stem.  I am probably going with maple for the decking with a light stain and walnut for the keel and trim.  Still up in the air about the hull planking.  Also need to figure out how much of each to order.

 
Tom

Hello again MSW,
After finishing my first build (Constellation) by AL I finally decided on a second adventure.  I finally mustered up the courage and decided to do a scratch build of the HMS Leopard.  I had come across the plans and for a first scratch build it seemed to have all the ingredients to test my abilities.  There seemed to be plenty of information available to guide me along with my MSW friends so I went for it.
 
Naturally, I have the 50 Gun Ship book by Rif Winfield.  I took the 1:96 plans that came with it and enlarged them up to 1:85 scale.  The 1:96 was just a bit small to me.  I scaled it up to 1:72 and it was bigger than I have room for so I split the difference and ended up at 1:85... same as my Constellation.  Working in an engineering office, I have access to the CAD program Solidworks so I transferred the 1:96 measurements from the drawing to the CAD and just played with the scale until I liked it.  I have been researching, planning and drawing frames for the past month so there is not much to show at this point. Scratch building is forcing me to learn tons of information on ship building practices which is not a bad thing.
 
My plan is to build the model with both frames and bulkheads.  The reason is I want to cut away the center area of the hull on one side to show some of the Orlop and Lower deck arrangements.  I figured I have the plans/layouts so why not use them.  I will use frames in the area of the cutout and bulkheads on both ends since these areas will not be seen inside.  Below is a sketch of my thoughts.  The area inside the heavy outline will be the cut away area.

 
Here also are some pics of the frame work I am playing with now.  Band saws and belt sanders will be busy!


 
Next is to design the fore and aft bulkheads and the deadwood layout.  If I do this right, the summer when the shipyard is open as much,  will be spent designing and roughing out the skeleton.  Then when the New England winter sets in I will have plenty to keep me busy.
 
Hope you enjoy the build,
Tom
 

Hi Mick and Mark,
tanks for the nice comments,
Thank you all for the LIKES.
Meanwhile, I made the thwarts with supports.

Hello
Gerhard, Carl and Giampiero,
about your interest I am very pleased.
Thank you for that, and also for the many LIKES.

The grating on the floor of the aft cockpit was a special
Challenge.
I think you can see from the plan, what I mean.

 

 

 

Full optimally has not succeeded. Next time, maybe.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 164 – Anchor Release Gear/Mounting
 
Like many specific details, the gear used to release Young America’s anchors is not known.  However, I wanted to include it in the model since it does seem to be a pretty important part of the gear.  The type used is typical of the period and is shown in the first picture.
 

 
George Campbell’s work, China Tea Clippers, is a great source of deck detail for ships of the period and was the source for the design of anchor release gear used.  The gear consists of a levered arm that has a spoon-like half cylinder at its outboard end.  In the normal position this device supports a pin from which one end of a short chain is suspended.  The other end of this chain is bolted to the opposite side of the cathead.  When the anchor is suspended before release, this chain holds the anchor’s main shackle which at this stage would be secured to the anchor chain cable.  To release the anchor, the lever inside the bulkhead is raised, allowing the pin at the end to fall free, releasing the short chain and the anchor.
 
The next picture shows the lever with the tubular support at the end soldered on.  Another rod for the release pin has been positioned on the end of the lever.  On the model it will be soldered in place, cut off, and a bolt eye soldered to it.  The three eyebolts that hold the lever to the cathead were threaded on to the shaft before any soldering.
 

 
The next picture shows the short length of chain with a shackle about to be soldered to the release pin. 
 

 
Obviously this will not be a working model.  The next picture shows the assembly in position so holes for the eyebolts and the pin bolt can be spotted.  An opening was cut under the topgallant rail to just pass the inboard end of the lever and the inside eyebolt.
 

 
The next picture shows the assembly blackened, installed and temporarily suspending the wooden stock bower anchor. 
 

 
The next picture shows the iron bar stock anchor blackened and placed on its eventual resting place on the other side – again temporarily.
 

 
Three wood chocks were installed to support each anchor in their stored positions.  These can be seen in the last picture.
 

 
 
Eyebolts with restraining lashings will eventually be fitted to each of the chocks, but that will await final installation along with the chain that will be run over the winch and out the hawse hole on the starboard side.  For now the anchors will go into storage.
 
Ed

Thank you all very much for all these comments, questions, and likes.  Let me respond to some:
 
Bob, the wooden stock is made in two pieces.  Richard is correct.  The two sides were usually fitted over a boss on the shaft that kept it is place, even in the occasional presence of a boss below the stock as I have shown.  The two pieces were cut so there would be a gap toward the center, allowing the iron bands that were shrunk on to tighten the grip on the shaft.  There were many styles of stocks used in the "non-standard" early period of American merchant sail.
 
The copper bands were blackened after pressing into place on the stock.  The stock was finish sanded first.  I have found that liver of sulfur solution has no effect on surrounding wood - unless there are metal filings or dust on the wood.  LOS quickly neutralizes to an inert white slurry, so there is no active material left on the wood, as there would be with the blue selenium salt solutions used on brass.   Rinsing the LOS solution as soon as blackening is achieved is a precaution.  This is the reason I use copper for many parts.   LOS does not blacken brass.  All the iron knees on Naiad were blackened after being installed and the wood is still clean.  Rinsing was not very practical for these.  I emphasize that the wood needs to be free of metal dust, one reason to use a sacrificial forming piece for shaping and and polishing of the bands - another is razor blade cuts into the wood.
 
The red hue in the photo appears to be from the effect of the lighting on the photo.  It appears quite black "in person."  
 
Thank you, Frank.  I use the TIVA solution for degreasing after pickling - rather than solvents.  TIVA is a commercial product for cleaning metal before treating.  It is normally used in ultrasonic tanks, but seems to work well as a room temperature dip.  I am increasingly convinced that the most important step in blackening is pickling of soldered parts, followed by polishing the metal surface.    I usually drop the still-hot, soldered pieces into Sparex solution after each joint to knock off most of the oxidation and flux.  Lately, after completion of all soldering, I have been immersing the parts in white vinegar, bringing it to a boil (as in food pickling) then letting it cool for a few hours before final polishing.  This has worked well.
 
Thanks, Druxey.  If I can add a good idea to your repertoire, I am indeed flattered.  The .005" copper cut easily with a razor blade or a surgical scalpel. I am anxious to try it on the thicker material that will be used on the many yard and mast bands that await.  I may use a turned, slightly tapered, metal mandrel for those.  We'll see.
 
Ed

I think... (operative word here is: think) that I got it.  Not as perfect I would like but I've pushed my limits to the extreme.  All three windows are in on the starboard side.  I might (yeah.. sure... he says to himself... I know I will) re-visit these and see if I can make them better after doing the starboard side.  All in all for a first effort at scratching  quarter galleries with minimal plans... I'll give myself a B+.
 
A bit of cleanup in the shop, and I'll turn this around to the other side.  The next side ought to be a bit faster as I won't be re-cutting windows and reworking everything.  That part has been done. <crosses fingers>
 
I'm feeling like if I can do these galleries... I'm ready for anything.  Even carving.
 

 

Thanks for the comments and "likes".
 
 
 
It's mostly just fiddly work in Corel Draw.  No programming as such, David.  Which makes me very happy. 
 
 
Well, all has not been quiet here in the shipyard.  making progress.  On the down side, it is slow, slightly maddening work to translate a 2D drawing into a 3D part....  Luckily, when the first side is done, the second side should go a lot faster.
 
I've got two of the three windows glazed and in place.  The third is currently somewhere in the workshop with the glazing drying (I'm using liquid glaze).  I've probably cut and re-worked, and re-cut 20 or wo windows to get to this point and I find them very fiddly indeed.
 
I've started working on the gallery roof(s) and drop(s) for both sides but have nothing to show in photos yet.
 
So here's the two windows in place.  Feel free to speak up if something is awry while I can still get access to the part.
 
The slight (ahem) misfit at the bottom of the taffrail where the lower molding meets will be hidden by carvings.  I've started those also....
 

Excellent results! The finish is really superb.

Excellent results! The finish is really superb.

Excellent results! The finish is really superb.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 163 – Bower Anchors 3
 
In the last part the fabrication of what will be the port bower anchor was completed.  That anchor has still to be blackened and mounted.  Work on the starboard anchor went on concurrently and is described in this part.  In the first picture the shaft and arms of that second anchor have been soldered and it has been set up to solder some short lengths of telescoping square tube that will be used to shape the boss for the wood stock.
 

 
The configuration is different from the first iron bar stock anchor.  In the next picture shaping of the fully soldered anchor has just begun.
 

 
On the first anchor the shackle bolt was soldered in place on the finished anchor.  On this anchor the wooden stock must be installed before the shackle so the shackle bolt was threaded into the shackle to avoid soldering with the wood stock in place.  The threaded rod and shackle are shown below.
 

 
The still unshaped anchor is also shown in this picture.  The shackle threads were made with a jeweler’s tap and die. 
 
The next step was to make the wooden stock.  In the next picture one of the two halves is being mortised to fit over the square anchor shaft.
 

 
Before final shaping of the wooden stock, the iron bands were made.  This may appear backward in sequence but I think it is easier to do the final fitting of the bands by light sanding/filing of the wood stock, rather than to precisely size the bands. 
 
To accurately shape the bands a wood form was made to match the anchor stock shape.  This was marked for band location and copper strips were bent around the form at each location.  In the next picture a razor blade is being tapped with a hammer at an angle to cut the overlapped band to precisely size it and form the joint for soldering.
 

 
The next picture shows the band joint (and the cut damage to the wood form).  It was then removed from the wood, soldered, replaced on the wood form and cleaned up with files and abrasive sticks.
 

 
Using the wood form for fitting, clean-up and polishing avoids damage to the actual stock and also keeps it clean of metal dust.  In the next picture the six bands have been fitted.
 

 
Fitting of the bands required light filing sanding of the wooden stock to the point where each band would fit tightly at its final location.  In the above picture the polished bands have been pressed into place, and are ready for blackening.  In the last picture all of the iron parts have been blackened and the anchor is ready for assembly.
 

 
All of the metal parts were pickled in heated white vinegar, polished, soaked in TIVA cleaning solution, and rinsed before treatment.  The copper bands on the stock were brushed liberally with liver of sulfur solution.  When black, the assembly was rinsed in clean water.  The brass anchor and shackle parts were dipped in diluted Birch-Casey brass black, brushed until black, rinsed, buffed with Q-tips, and allowed to dry.
 
The tight fit of the bands on the stock and the stock on the shaft may be sufficient without glue.  I may use a tiny drop of CA on the underside of each band and on the anchor shaft just to be safe.  The anchor shackle will be attached to a soldered chain shackle so will be installed later when those parts are made.
 
Ed

Hello,
thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in. 
Here I show the to cut out of the raw locks
and another images of the interior works of the gig.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Next - priming, sanding and finally painting the Fish
 

 

Thank you all for the comments and likes.
 
Very perceptive, Micheal.  I see I cannot get away with anything here.  A number of things are going on here.  First, the length of the anchor and the bar are based on a rule of thumb that they be equal in length.  The drawing was based on a length of 13'-0".  Subsequent checking of sources argued for a lengths as small as 12'.  The as-built length of the anchor is about 12' 6" and I made the length of the bar about the same.   Therefore, seeing the bar slightly shorter than the drawing did not concern me, but when doing the final drawing check, I saw that the bar length on the drawing is too long because of the way I placed the ball at the end.  The overall length has been corrected on the drawing.  Both lengths are 13' as the drawing now stands.  I may downsize it toward 12', but knowing that there was a lot of dimensional variation in these American anchors of the period, I may not bother.  For example, Campbell (China Tea Clippers) gives a 12'3" overall length for a 1200 ton ship.  YA was 1900 tons.  So, welcome to my world.
 
David, I did not bother with any lubricant.  I try to avoid using it around the lathe (and mill) to avoid getting it on wood pieces.  Using the chuck as a tailstock center was pure expedient.  A better method would be to use a short piece of 1/8" id tubing held in the chuck.  I could easily have done this but wanted to try the chuck.  It worked fine.
 
Tom, I glossed over many of the steps in the process,  but I am documenting it better for future reference.
 
I should have some pictures of the second anchor within a few days.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 162 – Bower Anchors 2
 
Although I worked on the two bower anchors simultaneously, I will stick with the iron bar stock version through to its completion, then post the work on the wooden stock version in one sequence.  Although very similar, there are a number of differences in their construction.  There are a lot of steps to making these, so I will just summarize here.
 
The first picture shows work on the large shackle at the top of the first anchor.
 

 
The shackles on the bower anchors are by far the largest on the ship.  In the picture one of the ends is being flattened to increase its breadth.  It was then drilled for the bolt holes.  The next picture shows the shackle bolted to the top of the anchor shaft.
 

 
A touch of silver solder on one end keeps the bolt in place. 
 
Iron bar stock anchors were coming into use during the YA period.  Some had a simple straight-ended bar.  Some had screwed or pinned balls at the end and most of the later versions featured a right angle bend at the end. I decided on the simple straight bar.  In the next picture the 6” diameter bar stock, with its two 9” bosses, is being turned from a 1/8” brass rod.
 

 
The rod is held on center at the tail end by the drill chuck just lightly tightened.  A file is being used to finish the diameter.  Flexing in long thin turnings like this makes final sizing difficult with cutting tools but the file works fine on the last 10 thousandths or so near the middle.  In the next picture the bar has been finished turning, cut to length and drilled for the forelock that will keep it in place on the anchor shaft.
 

 
In the picture a jeweler’s saw is being used to cut the slot for the forelock.  In the next picture the bar has again been drilled, this time for the eyebolt that will secure the forelock chain.  The eyebolt with chain was then soldered into the hole.
 

 
I am making all eyebolts from twisted wire, in this case the wire was passed through the chain before spinning it up.  The next picture shows all the parts for this anchor, including the forelock.
 

 
I want to blacken the bar assembly and the anchor separately.  The bar will finally be held in by the forelock.  The next picture shows the forelock and the chain connected by a shackle.
 

 
On small shackles like this one the bolt end is simulated by silver soldering a straight brass rod across the ends.  I expect to use this method on the many rigging shackles to come later.  By the period of this ship shackles had largely replaced ringbolts that had to be permanently forged to the eyebolt beforehand.  The beauty of the shackle was that it could be easily fitted and removed.  The method shown above offers no such advantage as will be seen later where shackles are fitted to eyebolts in wood or in rigging.  In the above picture the shackle has been prepared for soldering with both the chain and the forelock threaded onto it.  I used easy solder and a very light pass with the torch to prevent welding the whole array together in one blob.
 
The last picture shows the completed anchor.
 

 
I almost hate to blacken this.
 
Ed

That is something else! Thanks for sharing, and I hope she finds a worthy home.

That is something else! Thanks for sharing, and I hope she finds a worthy home.

Thank you, all.
 
The joints are silver soldered.  I have been using copper-phosphorus solder in paste form with flux from a syringe.  I believe this solder blackens easier - particularly if using liver of sulfur on copper.  The solder has a lower (only 3%) silver content and melts at 1325 deg F.  On the flukes I used Easy grade that melts at 1205 deg F.  I use a propane torch for soldering - s mall one on small parts.  I used a full size torch on some of the anchor work for more heat.  As I said in the post, I would have used oxy-propane instead of the the large torch, but was out of oxygen.  It goes fast and is expensive.  I will be blackening the anchors with Birchwood Casey selenious brass blackening solution.  A link to my source for solder is given below.
 
Joints for silver soldering must be tight because the solder - unlike soft solder - will not fill gaps.  For this reason joints are very thin and become relatively invisible when filed off.
 
https://contenti.com/jewelry-soldering-supplies/solder
 
Ed

Nice photo: it should go on the flap or rear of the next volume's dust jacket!

Robin, I usually do not let the camera lens wander above my wrists, but for you I make an exception - per your request....
 

 
Please excuse the typical clutter.
 
All the best,
 
Ed
 
ps. should have an update posting shortly.

'Positively final farewell appearance!' So the old theatre posters read. And this is true for the Greenwich Hospital barge. The sub-base has been made and finished, and so is this log. My profound thanks to all who looked in, 'liked' and commented. You are a great world-wide network of craftspeople with whom I am proud to be associated. Happy model-making!
 
Serious enquiries of interest only for acquiring this model are invited.

Thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in.   
 
I've spent the last 4 days, working on the two main windows and tweaking the frames for the galleries.  The top was too far outboard and the windows didn't lean inward.   I've also done several iterations of the two rearmost windows to get the fit.  Here's were I am this weekend.   The windows will get cleaned up more (laser char) and then glazed before installing.  I'm going with full glazing as I think it will look better.  I'll also add the planking between them and finalize the forward most window.   I'm hoping that it will have the 3 panes wide but we'll have to see.  I'm thinking that this window was overall narrower than the other two with rectangular panes instead of square-ish.
 
Here's the pictures.  The first picture shows the "lean" that I was talking about with the red lines for emphasis.  The other two just show the window placement.
 

 
 

A stunning result. Thank you for sharing and teaching us all along the way. Truly inspiring,