paul ron

there are models that replicate the actual ships, where details matter to keep it authentic to its period and style. this takes alot of historic research. you wont see shiny brass cannons and beautiful woodwork, sheething plates are weathered and ropes are rigged for work instead of neat bundles. some go as far as making beautiful diaramas of battles or sails set to weather, even ships under construction. some show cutaways of lower decks and stowage areas with cargo n men at work all accurate to the mm. then there are models that are considered craftsmen's ships. it doesnt have to be authentic to its period, not an accurate rendition; the builder took artistic licence for a particular look, such to show off the wood or brass or sail configurations... a demonstration of his artistic skills. then we have artistic representations of what the builder imagins his ship should look like. maybe using plans as a starter but with frills n ornaments that didnt exist at the time but they look great. what it comes down to, its up to you! its your work of art and the only one to please is you. we are craftsmen, we are artists and recreators of time and imagination, dreams of the past. you have stepped into the twilite zone.

the last chapters has some manuvering techniques with drawings https://archive.org/details/apdfYoungSeaOfficersSheetAnchorFileSizeReduced/page/n140/mode/1up

take a gear from a clock, mount it on a stick... pounce wheel.

that'll work. in case you need to store overnight... at least you'll have a pair left. 🤭

to store the pad while working, put some alcohol in an ash tray n sit the pad there between coats. to store the pad long term, a relish jar is the way to go.... short wide mouth easy to pick up the pad.

find a door in the dumpster or get one at home depot for $60. you just need to build a base or just put it on a pair of horses. i like solid core doors over hollow ones, but either will do just fine.

thanks, ill read it tonight.

hopefully someone here has this saw and can measure the pullies for you? you can get them in hardware stores or machine shops. contact dremel. btw amazon is world wide too.

i took a screenshot of the parts list i the manual... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1003625/Dremel-580.html?page=15#google_vignette seems there are 2 pullies available. perhaps a call or email to dremel to get the part? https://www.dremel.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support-services another way to go is try to figure out the size of the pully by measuring the belt slack. you may also put a multi pully so you can slip the belt for a different speed. btw the blade speed in the specs is about 9000rpm. the motor runs at 10,000rpm.

im not familiar with these small lathes. i do have experiance on metal lathes, comercial machines, and wood lathes. are you working metal? an oil drip pan under the lathe and an oil feeder may be worth looking into. do you intend to do threading? there are special toolings and accessories needed for that. perhaps asking others here for literature and check out you tube videos to see how to properly and safely use your tools. videos... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=taig+desktop+metal+lathe best thing to do is use it, follow instructions, get plenty of practice.

its not unusual to diy mount a tool's motor using a hinge. the weight of the motor should be enough to tension the tool to the drive belt... if not, you can use bungies or other additional methods to tension the mount. there is no additional stresses to worry about as long as its all aligned properly.

just stain whatever wood you are using to look like redish mahogony.

i leave my strips in the toilet tank for a couple hours. they come out like wet noodles and bend very easily... in fact i can get smaller radiuses than pictured above. whatever floats ur boat...

the rub ons are hard to find in typesets or sizes let alone color. ive had pretty good results with the water slide. the paper is semi transparent so i trace the lettering off the plans using pen n ink. it would be great to find the rub ons we need. im all for the easy way out whenever i can. i hope everyone posts their sources here?

a pen torch would be more than adaquate for such a small piece. but it seems by the conversation here, color is more important than heat. yes, silver solder would be fine, but some of the color matching sugestions are like killing mosquetos with a hammer. at the scale and size of the piece, the weld would appear insignificant. an eopxy fix would be more than sufficient but it's just too simple a solution.

you do realize there are brass low temp brazing rods available? https://www.amazon.com/GEOYLE-Brass-Brazing-Rods/dp/B0C7P15LC9?th=1

do you have a link to where you got your rub on letters?

oh u need white. that creates a different problem. ive made waterslide decals using my caligraphy pens n inks, i needed gold type. i coated the decals with clear satin acrilic spray before soaking in water to preserve the ink from running. perhaps try doing this using white acrilic paint on the print side of the paper?

have you considered using water slide decal paper than you can print your own via an ink jet or laser printer? https://www.amazon.com/water-slide-decals/s?k=water+slide+decals

https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Eyelet-Colors-Clothes-Making/dp/B0CM3R4NWQ/ref=sr_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-17&th=1

a simple amazon search found this.... https://www.amazon.com/small-eyelets/s?k=small+eyelets are these small enough? https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Eyelet-Colors-Clothes-Making/dp/B0CM3R4NWQ/ref=sr_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-17&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/GORGECRAFT-Quicklet-Grommets-Backing-Eyelets/dp/B0D2MGBT6T/ref=sr_1_10?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-10&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Grommets-Eyelets-Backing-Grommet-Project/dp/B0DC6F3FXS/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small+eyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-7

how about brazing brass using brass rods? for brazing small parts, you dont need a torch. i use a mini butane torch. the brass rod comes in all gages, even wire form. flux is important. here is a nice article how to braze... https://weldingproperty.com/how-to-braze-brass/

i love zona razor saws and bought each one, even the one that has a few replaceable blades in the kit... that key hole blade is amazing! tpi depends on what you're cutting.