paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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Gold solder for brass
paul ron replied to Richard Braithwaite's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
how about brazing brass using brass rods? for brazing small parts, you dont need a torch. i use a mini butane torch. the brass rod comes in all gages, even wire form. flux is important. here is a nice article how to braze... https://weldingproperty.com/how-to-braze-brass/ -
i love zona razor saws and bought each one, even the one that has a few replaceable blades in the kit... that key hole blade is amazing! tpi depends on what you're cutting.
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Bulwark Posts
paul ron replied to Jackie's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
when you fabricated the posts, why werent they all made the same size or follow the plans more accurately? the dremel may be the best answer to take them down. but after making them all even with the shortest ones, will they then all be too short? how about removing them and redo it correctly? it wouldnt be too hard to take m off if sanding is knocking them off. -
https://www.amazon.com/led-filament/s?k=led+filament you owe me one!
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cancel the order! they should have told you the final price at check out, not surprise you after its been shipped.
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check this out... https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/fluorescent-lamp now im going to see how to light them. the fiber optic may be the answer... checking checking checking....
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thanks for the info... dont laugh... i once had an old monster of a 3d cnc router that ran on an ibm XT with a special board and a dongle. 3d printing machines were uv cure epoxy extruders. man that was space age technology back then.
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i was refering to OS compatability, formats, subscriptions, software, blue tooth, internet... etc. can i hook it up to my DOS compter?... how about XP?... see what i mean? not the physical wiring to the computer which would probably be USB these days. my 40 year old comercial cnc had a board you installed in the computer, another was a stand alone unit or i could use a printer port.
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what are the computer interface requirements?
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the question is how much use will it get? i considered getting one, but after some scrutiny, i realized it will just sit next to the tredmill that has several winter coats hanging on it. the once in a blue moon i want something done... id put out a call to the guys in here that have lots of experiance and wouldnt mind making some extra gas money. besides, if i were to do my own, it would take me a long learning curve and plenty of wasted material figuring it out. then consider which machine you want... go cheap or go all out for a top of the line? go cheap usually means poor results and frustration. go over the top, great quality but a big outlay for a first time starter you may not like anyway. so is it worth the efforts?... unless you plan on doing alot of design n printing as a new hobby? a parallel experiance... photography printers. i bought a top of the line printer to make large prints. special roll paper, big tanks of ink.... and lots of waste, expensive waste. i sold it at half price when the ink ran out because a set of inks was just way to expensive. instead, when i need large prints, i go wo wallmart up the block which prints on million dollar printers. if i dont like the quality, they redo it at no extra cost. as said before, its a personal choice.
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Topsail schooner sail plans and rigging
paul ron replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
now this makes alot of sense. i built a topsail schooner 40 years ago but always wondered if it had the extra sails. seems a waste having the empty yard n no sails. we all know that every inch of space is always utilized, especially if it means more speed. thanks for all the research ian and meow. this is the best part of our hobby.- 104 replies
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- schooner rigging
- Topsail schooner
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Sheet Metal Shear Recommendations?
paul ron replied to DerekMc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
what gage material are you working with? how wide are the pieces you will be working with? the small sheer combo machines referenced above are nice because you have a few functions in one machine.. and the price is right. most hobby metal cutting is done with tin snips or by scoring n bending. the cutter you are looking at is miserable for sheet metal. as you lower the blade, the metal shifts. again, what you are working with, and the dimentions, determine the best tool for the job. -
I Have an Itch to Scratch
paul ron replied to SaltyScot's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
start your build and get or invent tools as you go. i used a band saw for cutting planks but really needed a table saw which really improved accuracy. then as i went along, i got a scroll saw to speed up the process instead of using a jewlers saw for intricate patterns. jigs n clamps are made as needed. so just start the project and decide on tools as you go... otherwise you will spend your budget on stuff you dont need and become a tool junkie instead of a modeler. edit... an important tool... get one of those mini cordless hand drills like the dremels. you can get a nice one for about $30 on amazon. someone once did a review of a couple nice hand drills. just be sure the chuck can take dental burrs. you'll also need a mini chuck that has an 1/8"shaft and can close to zero for those tiny number wire drills. btw dental burrs are great and can be bought fairly cheap. -
well since my last posting, i dug out my drafting equipment and got all the ruling pens together for a quick try. a couple of them were cacked up with india ink. i cleaned all the pens. for my experiments i used a water based ink for calligraphy i got for the grand kids. they were metalics and opaque colors which do look great. i adjusted the pen so the tips just barely met. a dip about 1/2" and a quick wipe and pen to paper. i really never used these although i may have for the drafting classes. so with a bit of adjustments, drawing was very nice. i got very consistant width lines and even flow. it reminded me of using a fountain pen and speedball pens with fine nibbs. it was a pleasant experiance. i think ill be using these pens more often now that I've gotten a feel for them.
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found this for your saw. https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2977.0 in post #8 .... "Slitting saws can be purchased from Victor Machinery: https://www.victornet.com/ I deal with them for many things and am a happy customer and not connected to them in any way."
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i love clippers. thanks for sharing.
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it takes a steady hand to get those lines straight. thanks for the video. edit... i remeber as a kid taking up drafting, i bought an expensive compass kit that had that pen as an accessory. but instead of using that ruling pen, we used drafting ink koi nor pens, they came in different widths n weights. after seeing your video i dug through my tools and found my compass set to try the ruling pen. its one of those lost arts like fountain pens and speedball pens for caligraphy (another hobby of mine), which i still use to this day. thanks for inspiring me. here is a basic tutorial i found online showing how to use the ruling pen. ill try it later tonight thanking you for the fun. https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
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Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
ive never heard natural vs synthetic for certain paints. but capilary action will draw the paint up regardless of the fiber material. just be sure to clean your brushes well. i get nice Camel hair and synthetic brushes at michaels. they have sets in both fibers for about $12. https://www.michaels.com/shop/crafts-hobbies/craft-paint/brushes-accessories/craft-brush-sets https://www.amazon.com/s?k=michaels+paint+brushes&adgrpid=1339205740483960&hvadid=83700572733567&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=97622&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83700728525048%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=11120_13459965&mcid=4ad25eefbc323c52a5db562e9ed82ba3&msclkid=1e29a7fe935a10239ee6c0026f484d0a&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_17g2089ecz_e -
Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
when using camel hair brushes, never let the paint dry on it, the brush should be rinsed in the solvent of the paint till needed again during that session. once the job is done, the brush gets thoroughly cleaned with the proper paint solvent, then wash the brushes with soap n hot water. the trick is not to allow the paint to accumulate in the ferrel to begin with. the build up is because the brush wasn't cleaned between uses over time. to salvage the brush at this point, use the paint stripper for that paint. wash and store. as noted before, leaving the dried paint in the ferrel in its current condition will not effect anything as long as the remaining portion of the hair is still pliable and clean, the ferrel is now sealed. -
im not sure if this is applicable in your ship but definately interesting... https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/2017/11/24/main-boom-rigging/
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that $169 set https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/101508-veritas-miniature-tool-sets is very nice. these tools seem to be of good quality according to the descriptions. A2 and PM V11 are common tool steels with a good track record. the tools look nicely finished too. another source... cruise their catalog for other supplies... stewmac luthier planes and fine mini tools https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/ibex-archtop-carving-planes?queryid=8ecf07bdbbe3df10cf4c044e7ff905ec
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im not doubting the information. i just feel summeries are someone's interpretation and condensed versions of whatever the subject, especially when the language is not contemporary. many terms and wordings have evolved and meanings have changed... eg the Bible, Shakespeare... im sure you get my drift. as for coopering keels n other details of construction, i have no problem accepting the information bona facia... you guys are the experts. but it would be interesting to see it in first hand. i dont think i have enough experiance to doubt anything, but exposure to this sort of documentation does build insight as one gets familiar with the terms of the day... and thus my reason for seeing the documents, not scepticism, curiosity. i close my eyes and imagin what those times may have been like... an outter body experiance in a sense. thanks for all the research you guys do... ive learned alot from following these discussions.
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aww its a shame they arent digitzed. id really love to see the originals of all of them. sometimes things get lost when translated or pulled out of context... someone's summery is as good as an opinion, not as a matter of fact. plus to see the manuscrips in the original hand is a real treat in itself. this is what i enjoy more than the models... it gives this hobby purpose n makes our models that much more special as i explain to my viewers what it represents instead of just "a nice ship Paul" n a pat on the back.
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where can i see the documents?... do have the links? thanks
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my carpentry experiance, ive always used elmers wood putty. it doesnt shrink, its very easily sanded and holds to wood very well. as mentioned above, wide gaps should be fitted with wood as best as you can, then use the putty as a finish coat to seal smaller gaps. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elmer-s-4-oz-Carpenter-s-Wood-Filler-155876/311643947
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