paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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hahaha not confused.... wrong emoji.. but if the plans say 3mm, go with the smaller 3mm chuckies, especially if you feel they look better. regardless, im sure no matter which you use, the ship will be awsome! i have a few similar problems of choices or discrepancies ive managed to work out. plans vs research and how to compromise a solution to fit the model. sometimes its too late to make changes, and it turns out regretable, at least in my mind. my very smart 10yr old grand daughter says no one will ever know and still think its an awsome ship. because the viewers dont really look at it as a perfect scaled replica, they just see the wow factor of how amazing it is you can do this with so much detail. my ships dont go on display in museums, they sit on shelves collecting dust for 50 years. they still get the wows but no one gets close enough to see all the mistakes or shuda couldas. my grand daughter has sworn to secrecy.
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whethere you use varnish and/or shellac, keep in mind its a static model, not furniture thats exposed to usage and needs a protective finish. our ships get a nice finish to look pretty. imho, I'd use one or the other, not both. shellac is alcohol based, varnish is oil based (or water based).. each has a different hardness when cured. the different types can present separation as it ages with expansion and contraction of the wood due to seasonal humidity changes and the difference between how each finish reacts to it. the first thined coat of whatever you use is the "sealer" coat. it penetrates the very surface of the wood to help keep grain from raising and sealing the softer part of wood so it wont soak more than the harder parts in the grain... this will help give an even finish coat. you'll lightly sand between the sealer and finish coat to ultimately allow the final coat to self level evenly.
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Other Hook Sizes All other fishing hook sizes smaller than 1/0 are then measured by whole number only. For example a #1 or ‘number one hook’ or #5 ‘number five hook’ etc. The tricky part here is that unlike the ought sizes where the larger the number, the larger the hook- now it becomes reversed; the larger the number the smaller the hook. For example, hooks sizes from smallest to largest would be #10, #8, #6, #4, #2, #1, 1/0, 3/0, 5/0, 6/0 etc. Sizes go well beyond what is shown in these charts! The smallest commercially available hook size is a #32 and the largest is 27/0! you would be surprised how small hooks can be. i tied flys as a kid. we had real sporting goods shops that had everything you could imagine. i use to buy tiny thin wire hooks to make gnats. ive used fish hooks recently i bought at kmart. they were perfect for my 1:96 clipper. shopping for hooks is better at the stores so you can see them. i hate online shopping. today, cabellas may be your best bet.. email them. although im sure there must be some mom n pop shops that cater to fly fishing, you may be able to find these tiny fishing hooks. https://panfishnation.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Webp.net-resizeimage-2021-04-23T003927.563-1024x422.jpg
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why not cut the eyes of fishing hooks? they come in many sizes from tiny fly tying to big monster shark sized hooks. they are cheap, sold in bulk and come in gold, silver, blackened steel, brown... and even red green n blue these days. making your own for custom sized eyes does take time and after a few, you get the knack of it. you will make them by the dozens in no time at all. ive made eyes using 34ga ni cr wire wrapped around a sewing needle only because at that size, its the only way to do it. the bigger eyes are fishing hooks.
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poplar, walnut, teak. ... its hard to see in a picture to make a pos id.
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out of curiosity, i did an autopsy on one of those led flikering candles to see if it had some kind of control electronics... there is NO electronics at all! the led has all the flickering built in. so if you want flickering cabins or lanterns, just pull the led out of the candles and wire m up in parallel with a 3v power source n you are good to go. these led flickering tea lights are dirt cheap at dollar stores. so cheap, even the batteries, 2 AR44 buttons, are more expensive if bought seperately. i get m at dollar tree, 3 for $1.25. cant beat that! so im going to make lanterns for all my ships.
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a weak bleach solution will kill and get rid of the mold stains. i had somethig similar with mold stains, bleach worked like a charm.
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any pictures to see older uncoated vs coated in aged models?
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soak the planks overnight or steam them till they flex like spaghetti.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
paul ron replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
me too. gone through hundreds of em and not one, including my favorites, will cooperate. hahahahaha -
oiy, bring it to yor local pub mate?🖐️
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
paul ron replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
how many pairs have you gone through to find that perfect pair? i have very denanding need for scissors. i need three sizes but all must be to my specs. i want a good feel on the cutting fingers, they must cut from tip to joint. i test my tip cutting ability on a thin sewing thread cutting as close to the tip without slipping out of its mouth. i get surgical scissors now and rate them as the best of the best because after hundreds of mediocre scissors i just went ocd. i also found quality controll issues within the same brands n origins but the difference's are very slight... although made in pakastan were excelent. i cant understand why a regular scissor cant cut in my left hand as well as my right? is it me or is it memorex? LEFT HANDED SCISSORS? i gotta do this all over again?! -
Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
mancoon? thats one big **** cat! -
Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
why not put some pirates climbing aboard and fighting on deck with the crew as if she were overtaken in battle? you have alot of work ahead. -
Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
i hate when that happens! i kept snapping my bowsprit in the same place several times. my final fix was to dowel it. i drilled both part's center ever so slightly oversized hole to fit the shaft of a fishing hook. fishing hook wire is pretty tough metal. check how the broken parts fit exactly as they broke. i used epoxy in both parts holes. because the hole is slightly larger, its not critical to get the wire to align exactly centered due to the oversized hole. so far my fix hasnt broken at that fragile point even though ive hit it a few times since. i did put a red flag on it so i can see it and stay clear of it next time. btw we have a thread here on just this subject with a few good fixes. -
nice job. helps if you have the room for it. my cardboard box setup folds flat n gets stored against the wall behind the workbench. i wish i had a bigger room.
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the real question is; will it be noticeable after its laced up? ive used the cheap ones as well as the more expensive better made deadeyes, imho to tell you the truth, you really cant tell on the finished model. what becomes more visable are the sheer poles if they arent installed evenly, not the holes.
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but the top steps seem to be the problem i cant reason in my head... you are hands free at that point. i guess you get the hang of it after that first broken nose or first time washed over board in a storm.
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i think he put those in temporarily... the top step should be below the decking above by the same step height as a rung. i do have a ladder question that has always puzzeled me... if you were climbing a ladder of this type on a real ship... would there be hand rails or at least something to hold on to when going up or down on the top steps? it would be awfully dangerous, especially on a rocking n rolling ship at sea.
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my personal choice for finishing raw wood is clear semi or flat spray acrylic first. if it needs color after the initial coat, ill add diluted stain to the clear and brush it on. you can add multiple coats till you get the desired depth of color. lightly sand between coats with a 400 wet dry paper to remove raised grain of the first coats. i find i have more control of the color plus the clear makes cleaning dust off in the future easy because its coated with an acrylic. using flat or semi gloss will give you a beautiful oiled finish look. experiment on some scrap of the same woods used.
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have you tried any yacht clubs in your area, golf courses, catering halls, seafood restauants? its a shame, all the work that goes into building these models... we cant even get minimum wadge for the time invested in them. where are you located?
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ah the backing... i see the problem. laser etching... maybe ask a sign shop if they can help?
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i wonder if you can use the stuff used to make diy electronic circuit boards? search amazon and found this... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies&crid=32M7HVUEKZQ6L&sprefix=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies%2Caps%2C102&ref=nb_sb_noss
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Edge bending brass strip?
paul ron replied to alde's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
why bend... how about just cutting the shape you need from a brass sheet? -
cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
paul ron replied to palmerit's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
i use clear nail polish to stiffen the rope end to keep it from fraying. some people use diluted wood glue. cut the tip on an angle. i use a scaple #11 with no problems. whipping the end is a nice way to finish it but do that after it passed through the hole. as mentioned, either the rope is too thick or the hole is a tad too small.
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