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paul ron

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Everything posted by paul ron

  1. a weak bleach solution will kill and get rid of the mold stains. i had somethig similar with mold stains, bleach worked like a charm.
  2. soak the planks overnight or steam them till they flex like spaghetti.
  3. me too. gone through hundreds of em and not one, including my favorites, will cooperate. hahahahaha
  4. how many pairs have you gone through to find that perfect pair? i have very denanding need for scissors. i need three sizes but all must be to my specs. i want a good feel on the cutting fingers, they must cut from tip to joint. i test my tip cutting ability on a thin sewing thread cutting as close to the tip without slipping out of its mouth. i get surgical scissors now and rate them as the best of the best because after hundreds of mediocre scissors i just went ocd. i also found quality controll issues within the same brands n origins but the difference's are very slight... although made in pakastan were excelent. i cant understand why a regular scissor cant cut in my left hand as well as my right? is it me or is it memorex? LEFT HANDED SCISSORS? i gotta do this all over again?!
  5. mancoon? thats one big **** cat!
  6. why not put some pirates climbing aboard and fighting on deck with the crew as if she were overtaken in battle? you have alot of work ahead.
  7. i hate when that happens! i kept snapping my bowsprit in the same place several times. my final fix was to dowel it. i drilled both part's center ever so slightly oversized hole to fit the shaft of a fishing hook. fishing hook wire is pretty tough metal. check how the broken parts fit exactly as they broke. i used epoxy in both parts holes. because the hole is slightly larger, its not critical to get the wire to align exactly centered due to the oversized hole. so far my fix hasnt broken at that fragile point even though ive hit it a few times since. i did put a red flag on it so i can see it and stay clear of it next time. btw we have a thread here on just this subject with a few good fixes.
  8. nice job. helps if you have the room for it. my cardboard box setup folds flat n gets stored against the wall behind the workbench. i wish i had a bigger room.
  9. the real question is; will it be noticeable after its laced up? ive used the cheap ones as well as the more expensive better made deadeyes, imho to tell you the truth, you really cant tell on the finished model. what becomes more visable are the sheer poles if they arent installed evenly, not the holes.
  10. but the top steps seem to be the problem i cant reason in my head... you are hands free at that point. i guess you get the hang of it after that first broken nose or first time washed over board in a storm.
  11. i think he put those in temporarily... the top step should be below the decking above by the same step height as a rung. i do have a ladder question that has always puzzeled me... if you were climbing a ladder of this type on a real ship... would there be hand rails or at least something to hold on to when going up or down on the top steps? it would be awfully dangerous, especially on a rocking n rolling ship at sea.
  12. my personal choice for finishing raw wood is clear semi or flat spray acrylic first. if it needs color after the initial coat, ill add diluted stain to the clear and brush it on. you can add multiple coats till you get the desired depth of color. lightly sand between coats with a 400 wet dry paper to remove raised grain of the first coats. i find i have more control of the color plus the clear makes cleaning dust off in the future easy because its coated with an acrylic. using flat or semi gloss will give you a beautiful oiled finish look. experiment on some scrap of the same woods used.
  13. have you tried any yacht clubs in your area, golf courses, catering halls, seafood restauants? its a shame, all the work that goes into building these models... we cant even get minimum wadge for the time invested in them. where are you located?
  14. ah the backing... i see the problem. laser etching... maybe ask a sign shop if they can help?
  15. i wonder if you can use the stuff used to make diy electronic circuit boards? search amazon and found this... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies&crid=32M7HVUEKZQ6L&sprefix=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies%2Caps%2C102&ref=nb_sb_noss
  16. why bend... how about just cutting the shape you need from a brass sheet?
  17. i use clear nail polish to stiffen the rope end to keep it from fraying. some people use diluted wood glue. cut the tip on an angle. i use a scaple #11 with no problems. whipping the end is a nice way to finish it but do that after it passed through the hole. as mentioned, either the rope is too thick or the hole is a tad too small.
  18. ya know, in my 50 some years of doing this, i really never paid much attention to learning the jargon till i joined here. there are very knowledgeable folks in here willing to help in any way they can.. ive learned so much in my time on the forums. the main thing is dont be shy asking, many of the experts are more than happy to help. before you know it, you'll be up to your eyeballs deep building ships and learning the history n technology involved. answer question number two... its the little details that enhance your build the most. keep an eye on these guys! happy building, hope to see your progress paul
  19. i searched the net n cant find any reference to tells on square riggers. i think i saw something in one of my books about the anatomy of a sail on square riggers. tell tale https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tell-tale_(sailing) are you thinking of reefers? reef lines... H the rows of short ropes are used to reef the sail... shorten the sail. perhaps on square riggers, they may have used the pendants or flags as tells?
  20. round handles are available here... https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Scalpel-Handle-Stainless/dp/B0833MCQ7C/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YL9nDrzmAYoRTW7epoJmz-I6JuFtR2uxTMG67Tg45jO8kNx2oYEjVpgh3As6r664UeCVg7pNTBGL2yf-3iDNdGpzUJ9nn8pPLfo6f6M_fcRQqqUKSx91rAjy1aQnCDAx6JasM4s3YWkmSGU14PgVUSIOc9nXGxPkpt8Tljf17GM7HPxqA6FQOPqLb1a8BImpLhxJLZ9KQOgph5w8VSN3aP_H-54Q3IqAqxgcqsCvB7E.iFFRXkdGDX3_QLJ1ZPJ3veX4Mdsw0Ih17JGaOHto0Ro&dib_tag=se&keywords=scalpel+handles&qid=1733256008&sr=8-9 #12 blades are very useful... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D8QWTF1/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVk micro scalples are very useful as well, although they are pricey... https://us.vwr.com/store/product/12359817/feather-sterile-micro-scalpels-stainless-steel-electron-microscopy-sciences
  21. i see the resale in the cabinets, not the models. i have seen models at estate sales, no one seems to want or offer only a few bucks for. many people ooo n ahhhh them but have the same problem we do... where to put them. fine if you have a fireplace mantel but not treasured like we do. hey building them isnt only about the boat, it has history n that is priceless. friends n relatives look at my ships n say they are great but really have no idea what they are looking at. then comes how to price a ship that took years to scratch build. what is your time worth?.. even at minimum wadge, we are in the thousand$. yeah Nice boat n move on. only a builder can appreciate them n they dont buy finished ships... we have our own head aches.
  22. @cathead i like your cabinet idea. ive got several ships strategically located throughout the house. after the first few ships, i regularly dusted, just became a way to big of a chore. i have been saying ill build cases for them... some day.. and some day just never happens. the price of plastic is out of reach these days. but your furniture remedy is on the mark. i just need 4 of them at this point and ill be looking at glass. btw buying used china cabinets may be the cheapest solution... im goint to start frequenting estate sales.
  23. im just taking a guess here but.... all that makes alot of sense. what i noticed most from building models, is if the rake isnt just right, alot of rigging just doesnt sit right. i also figured the rake had something to do with the wind load on the sails n masts n how stays n other rigging distributes the loads as to not stress the masts beyond their snapping point. also it seems logical raking contributes to better drive power transfer the ship, gives some forward lift to raise the ship for better speed.
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