paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
mancoon? thats one big **** cat! -
Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
why not put some pirates climbing aboard and fighting on deck with the crew as if she were overtaken in battle? you have alot of work ahead. -
Bit of a problem! HMS Speedy, Vanguard Models
paul ron replied to JohnEvans's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
i hate when that happens! i kept snapping my bowsprit in the same place several times. my final fix was to dowel it. i drilled both part's center ever so slightly oversized hole to fit the shaft of a fishing hook. fishing hook wire is pretty tough metal. check how the broken parts fit exactly as they broke. i used epoxy in both parts holes. because the hole is slightly larger, its not critical to get the wire to align exactly centered due to the oversized hole. so far my fix hasnt broken at that fragile point even though ive hit it a few times since. i did put a red flag on it so i can see it and stay clear of it next time. btw we have a thread here on just this subject with a few good fixes. -
nice job. helps if you have the room for it. my cardboard box setup folds flat n gets stored against the wall behind the workbench. i wish i had a bigger room.
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the real question is; will it be noticeable after its laced up? ive used the cheap ones as well as the more expensive better made deadeyes, imho to tell you the truth, you really cant tell on the finished model. what becomes more visable are the sheer poles if they arent installed evenly, not the holes.
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but the top steps seem to be the problem i cant reason in my head... you are hands free at that point. i guess you get the hang of it after that first broken nose or first time washed over board in a storm.
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i think he put those in temporarily... the top step should be below the decking above by the same step height as a rung. i do have a ladder question that has always puzzeled me... if you were climbing a ladder of this type on a real ship... would there be hand rails or at least something to hold on to when going up or down on the top steps? it would be awfully dangerous, especially on a rocking n rolling ship at sea.
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my personal choice for finishing raw wood is clear semi or flat spray acrylic first. if it needs color after the initial coat, ill add diluted stain to the clear and brush it on. you can add multiple coats till you get the desired depth of color. lightly sand between coats with a 400 wet dry paper to remove raised grain of the first coats. i find i have more control of the color plus the clear makes cleaning dust off in the future easy because its coated with an acrylic. using flat or semi gloss will give you a beautiful oiled finish look. experiment on some scrap of the same woods used.
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have you tried any yacht clubs in your area, golf courses, catering halls, seafood restauants? its a shame, all the work that goes into building these models... we cant even get minimum wadge for the time invested in them. where are you located?
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ah the backing... i see the problem. laser etching... maybe ask a sign shop if they can help?
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i wonder if you can use the stuff used to make diy electronic circuit boards? search amazon and found this... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies&crid=32M7HVUEKZQ6L&sprefix=printed+circuit+board+etching+supplies%2Caps%2C102&ref=nb_sb_noss
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Edge bending brass strip?
paul ron replied to alde's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
why bend... how about just cutting the shape you need from a brass sheet? -
cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
paul ron replied to palmerit's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
i use clear nail polish to stiffen the rope end to keep it from fraying. some people use diluted wood glue. cut the tip on an angle. i use a scaple #11 with no problems. whipping the end is a nice way to finish it but do that after it passed through the hole. as mentioned, either the rope is too thick or the hole is a tad too small. -
ya know, in my 50 some years of doing this, i really never paid much attention to learning the jargon till i joined here. there are very knowledgeable folks in here willing to help in any way they can.. ive learned so much in my time on the forums. the main thing is dont be shy asking, many of the experts are more than happy to help. before you know it, you'll be up to your eyeballs deep building ships and learning the history n technology involved. answer question number two... its the little details that enhance your build the most. keep an eye on these guys! happy building, hope to see your progress paul
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i searched the net n cant find any reference to tells on square riggers. i think i saw something in one of my books about the anatomy of a sail on square riggers. tell tale https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tell-tale_(sailing) are you thinking of reefers? reef lines... H the rows of short ropes are used to reef the sail... shorten the sail. perhaps on square riggers, they may have used the pendants or flags as tells?
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round handles are available here... https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Scalpel-Handle-Stainless/dp/B0833MCQ7C/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YL9nDrzmAYoRTW7epoJmz-I6JuFtR2uxTMG67Tg45jO8kNx2oYEjVpgh3As6r664UeCVg7pNTBGL2yf-3iDNdGpzUJ9nn8pPLfo6f6M_fcRQqqUKSx91rAjy1aQnCDAx6JasM4s3YWkmSGU14PgVUSIOc9nXGxPkpt8Tljf17GM7HPxqA6FQOPqLb1a8BImpLhxJLZ9KQOgph5w8VSN3aP_H-54Q3IqAqxgcqsCvB7E.iFFRXkdGDX3_QLJ1ZPJ3veX4Mdsw0Ih17JGaOHto0Ro&dib_tag=se&keywords=scalpel+handles&qid=1733256008&sr=8-9 #12 blades are very useful... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D8QWTF1/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVk micro scalples are very useful as well, although they are pricey... https://us.vwr.com/store/product/12359817/feather-sterile-micro-scalpels-stainless-steel-electron-microscopy-sciences
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i see the resale in the cabinets, not the models. i have seen models at estate sales, no one seems to want or offer only a few bucks for. many people ooo n ahhhh them but have the same problem we do... where to put them. fine if you have a fireplace mantel but not treasured like we do. hey building them isnt only about the boat, it has history n that is priceless. friends n relatives look at my ships n say they are great but really have no idea what they are looking at. then comes how to price a ship that took years to scratch build. what is your time worth?.. even at minimum wadge, we are in the thousand$. yeah Nice boat n move on. only a builder can appreciate them n they dont buy finished ships... we have our own head aches.
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@cathead i like your cabinet idea. ive got several ships strategically located throughout the house. after the first few ships, i regularly dusted, just became a way to big of a chore. i have been saying ill build cases for them... some day.. and some day just never happens. the price of plastic is out of reach these days. but your furniture remedy is on the mark. i just need 4 of them at this point and ill be looking at glass. btw buying used china cabinets may be the cheapest solution... im goint to start frequenting estate sales.
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im just taking a guess here but.... all that makes alot of sense. what i noticed most from building models, is if the rake isnt just right, alot of rigging just doesnt sit right. i also figured the rake had something to do with the wind load on the sails n masts n how stays n other rigging distributes the loads as to not stress the masts beyond their snapping point. also it seems logical raking contributes to better drive power transfer the ship, gives some forward lift to raise the ship for better speed.
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also try spray clear semi gloss acrylic. krylon is my best choice. it will darken it and accent the beautiful grain. do some tests on scraps of all the different types of finishes.
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Harbor Freight 16" variable speed scroll saw
paul ron replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
tighten the screw at the bottom of the foot using loc tite so it cant come lose again... its a common problem with new saws. while working on it, check the blade guides and make adjustments so they just barely toutch the blade at its resting position. adjust the table angle to be 90deg to the blade. new tools always need a going over... old tools need it even more. -
how about this site... you can download the files too... i found this on another site... https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-sailors-and-officers-to-crew-model-ships-1750-1820-130700
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Harbor Freight 16" variable speed scroll saw
paul ron replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
the link doesnt work... please try posting it again? -
Please explain razor saws to me
paul ron replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
the combo zona razor saw has a keyhole saw blade (about 3") ive used to cut a keyway for a box lock through a solid wood basement door. i also wish they had a bigger version of the keyhole blade, or even replacement blades. dont under estimate those saws. they cut like nothing else. -
Harbor Freight 16" variable speed scroll saw
paul ron replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
dont lower the foot to toutch the work. its just to keep the wood from chattering out of control in a jam... keep it about an 1/8th" above. just guide the work with a firm grip and let the blade cut at its own pace. car waxing the table as mentioned above is the best way to reduce drag. also get a variety of different tooth blades. fine tooth for soft materials and a courser tooth for harder thicker materials. be aware they come in different lengths and with or without end pins... they even come double sided n spiral tooth to cut forward and backwards. you can also get carbide n diamond blades for ceramics n metals. i prefer skip tooth blades, seem to cut faster n cleaner. describes saw blades... https://sawshub.com/scroll-saw-blades-types/ good source for a vatiety of blades available... https://www.amazon.com/Scroll-Saw-Blades/b?node=552340 if that plate by the blade is sitting too low, see if there are screws or spacers at the lip when you take the plate out? otherwise, just shim the plate with tape till its flush.
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