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paul ron

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Everything posted by paul ron

  1. paul ron
    wood stains didnt do the trick?
  2. paul ron
    the 45deg makes better sense. i expected to see answers saying it depends... but im sure there were standards regardless of depends. ill do some more digging into the manufacturing of traditional Maritime ropes. thanks
  3. paul ron
    i see alot of you use scale rope on your models. im planning to do the same on my next models and in the process of making a rope walk. curiosity has set in as to how many twists per foot does real rope have? ... say for 1850s clippers like the flying fish, the cloud, cutty sark... etc? is that taken into account for scale ropes?
  4. paul ron
    seems everyone ecept me are on social media... i only vist 2 or 3 hobby specific forums. i just figured you had a site for the benifit of this thread. you do have beautiful work.
  5. paul ron
    you can soften the brass by heating it with a torch. you can tap the curve over a metal bar. the z dimention is noted as... x y z im sure.
  6. paul ron
    omg! they are so beautiful. you really mastered 3d printing. very impressive. do you have a site with prices n perhaps rates for custom services?
  7. paul ron
    thats a great machine. wish i had one. the press in sleeves are easily replaced if it ever needs. i restored my ancient craftsman wood lathe 40 yeas ago. standard sized parts. the part that had the most wear was the thrust bearings. but if you have no or very little runout, you are good to go. btw i like the old worn paint look better... it has a certain experianced patina. have fun restoring it! this is where you will discover how overbuilt it really is. enjoy paul
  8. paul ron
    so its an angle finder app? i cant see using a phone or tablet to setup an angle for cutting. those clear plastic protractors seem good enough for most work. but if you need better resolution... the digitals are very good. https://sciencytools.com/the-7-best-digital-protractor-for-your-toolbox/
  9. paul ron
    why would you use a protractor app for?
  10. paul ron
    unrealistic and amateurish?... so what! if it pleases you and solves your space issue... go for it! are you displaying it in a museum or entering a contest as an exact replica, being judged by the realistic police? do what you think is best for you. im sure anyone seeing your model will be impressed by your workmanship regardless of how realistic or amateurish it looks.
  11. paul ron
    i have those doctor peepers you see surgeons wear... paid alot for them too... they magnify realy nice but the distance they focus at is too far away. i also cant get use to the narrow field. its not easy manipulating tiny parts in confined spaces without breaking everything neighboring the work space. for off ship work, they can be useful but i cant get use to them. a problem i have is getting use to manipulating in such magnification... it takes practice. i also had those magnifyer goggles that sit on your head like a helmet n can go over your glasses. they are terrible because you tend to get too close to the work space not realizing the goggles are about an inch or more ahead of your face. ive gotten tangled in rigging and breaking parts with those. working off ship, they are handy when making small parts. reading glasses seem the best route for me. at least i can see up close in real work perspective. what it comes down to is personal choice for what fits you best. id say try them all till you find the right fit. i think good lighting helps more than magnifyers.
  12. paul ron
    its not a contest... its a craft and all you put into it is your very best. no one is judging anyone. step back and enjoy the fruits of your labor. im sure its a beautiful model and anyone looking at it will be impressed.
  13. paul ron
    looking close at the picture i notice only the tan lines are fuzzy. the black lines appear clean. is that correct?
  14. paul ron
    what kind of wax did you use? are you sure its the wax? ive never seen anything like that, aside an old dusty ship ive ignored for 30 years. dont flame it. i can picture you blow torching it to ashes. maybe put it in a warm place or in the sun the run a brush over the lines. another thought, perhaps using a solvent on a soft brush run over each line that can remelt the wax?
  15. paul ron
    i think this is pickeling the metal since wine is acidic? using vinigar probably will have the same effect and that allows you to drink the wine and when that wears off in 20 hours everything will have darkened.
  16. paul ron
    when i go to South Street this week, ill try to get a picture if i have time between ferries.
  17. paul ron
    but was rigging over the front of yards done and what could they be? ... again, besides bunts n leeches that are suposed to run on the fore side of sails. the rigging im seeing would definately foul with sails over it. the south street museum has evolved into a yuppie tourist trap. at night its just a large space of loud music and younginz drinking... hardly anything left of the maratime theme with expensive coffee shops n over priced restauraunts occupying the old run down buildings. i see lots of gutting of buildings only to turn them into bars or commercial space for clothes n chochkies... not restorations. hardly a sign of the old fish market left too. the Wavertree replaced the Peking... the former rust bucket in that space. tons of money poured into that one too and was scrapped not long ago. those black holes in the water make alot of money, hardly any of it makes it to the cause from what i see as a regular down there. come back in 10 years and nothing will change other than coffee shops n bars junk shops and another rust bucket with new names. its an embarrasment for a city as big with such rich maratine history n so many vistors. ill look up jersey frankie.
  18. paul ron
    ok so rewording... the yard's arm is the end of a yard, got it. so what lines are running straight down the front central area of yards i see on the south street nyc ship wavertree? as stated before, i thought running rigging (aside bunts n leeches that are suposed to be infront of sails) shouldnt run over the front of yards? btw the wavertree has no sails, nor is it fully rigged or even has the associated hardware for bunts n leeches... it barely has any rigging except esentials... its a stripped down rust bucket tourists dump money into just to walk the deck. but i do see ropes over the front of the yards. isnt that taboo? my clipper and the wavertree are not ships of war. better?
  19. paul ron
    great info in here. i always thought those pendants were part of a code system. thanks for all the research guys.
  20. paul ron
    im scratch building the 1851 flying fish clipper and was wondering if its taboo to have rigging running over the front of the yardarms below? i have been looking at a ship at south street nyc, the wavertree a bark, and see ropes passing over the arm below. its hard to see which lines they are from street level. to me it doesnt make sense to do that because it will be under the sails attached to that arm. behind the arm seems a more logical route. what do you guys think?
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  24. paul ron
    never gave it much thought and used them interchangeably. but im sure there must be a technical difference. 🤔
  25. paul ron
    babbit bearings https://autowise.com/babbitt-bearing/ were used on many machines back in the day, usually fitted with zerk grease nipples. sintered bronze press in sleeve bushings were also used.. they had oil caps fitted for lubrication. https://autowise.com/babbitt-bearing/

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