paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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well since my last posting, i dug out my drafting equipment and got all the ruling pens together for a quick try. a couple of them were cacked up with india ink. i cleaned all the pens. for my experiments i used a water based ink for calligraphy i got for the grand kids. they were metalics and opaque colors which do look great. i adjusted the pen so the tips just barely met. a dip about 1/2" and a quick wipe and pen to paper. i really never used these although i may have for the drafting classes. so with a bit of adjustments, drawing was very nice. i got very consistant width lines and even flow. it reminded me of using a fountain pen and speedball pens with fine nibbs. it was a pleasant experiance. i think ill be using these pens more often now that I've gotten a feel for them.
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found this for your saw. https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2977.0 in post #8 .... "Slitting saws can be purchased from Victor Machinery: https://www.victornet.com/ I deal with them for many things and am a happy customer and not connected to them in any way."
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i love clippers. thanks for sharing.
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it takes a steady hand to get those lines straight. thanks for the video. edit... i remeber as a kid taking up drafting, i bought an expensive compass kit that had that pen as an accessory. but instead of using that ruling pen, we used drafting ink koi nor pens, they came in different widths n weights. after seeing your video i dug through my tools and found my compass set to try the ruling pen. its one of those lost arts like fountain pens and speedball pens for caligraphy (another hobby of mine), which i still use to this day. thanks for inspiring me. here is a basic tutorial i found online showing how to use the ruling pen. ill try it later tonight thanking you for the fun. https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
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Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
ive never heard natural vs synthetic for certain paints. but capilary action will draw the paint up regardless of the fiber material. just be sure to clean your brushes well. i get nice Camel hair and synthetic brushes at michaels. they have sets in both fibers for about $12. https://www.michaels.com/shop/crafts-hobbies/craft-paint/brushes-accessories/craft-brush-sets https://www.amazon.com/s?k=michaels+paint+brushes&adgrpid=1339205740483960&hvadid=83700572733567&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=97622&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83700728525048%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=11120_13459965&mcid=4ad25eefbc323c52a5db562e9ed82ba3&msclkid=1e29a7fe935a10239ee6c0026f484d0a&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_17g2089ecz_e -
Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
when using camel hair brushes, never let the paint dry on it, the brush should be rinsed in the solvent of the paint till needed again during that session. once the job is done, the brush gets thoroughly cleaned with the proper paint solvent, then wash the brushes with soap n hot water. the trick is not to allow the paint to accumulate in the ferrel to begin with. the build up is because the brush wasn't cleaned between uses over time. to salvage the brush at this point, use the paint stripper for that paint. wash and store. as noted before, leaving the dried paint in the ferrel in its current condition will not effect anything as long as the remaining portion of the hair is still pliable and clean, the ferrel is now sealed. -
im not sure if this is applicable in your ship but definately interesting... https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/2017/11/24/main-boom-rigging/
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that $169 set https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/101508-veritas-miniature-tool-sets is very nice. these tools seem to be of good quality according to the descriptions. A2 and PM V11 are common tool steels with a good track record. the tools look nicely finished too. another source... cruise their catalog for other supplies... stewmac luthier planes and fine mini tools https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/ibex-archtop-carving-planes?queryid=8ecf07bdbbe3df10cf4c044e7ff905ec
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im not doubting the information. i just feel summeries are someone's interpretation and condensed versions of whatever the subject, especially when the language is not contemporary. many terms and wordings have evolved and meanings have changed... eg the Bible, Shakespeare... im sure you get my drift. as for coopering keels n other details of construction, i have no problem accepting the information bona facia... you guys are the experts. but it would be interesting to see it in first hand. i dont think i have enough experiance to doubt anything, but exposure to this sort of documentation does build insight as one gets familiar with the terms of the day... and thus my reason for seeing the documents, not scepticism, curiosity. i close my eyes and imagin what those times may have been like... an outter body experiance in a sense. thanks for all the research you guys do... ive learned alot from following these discussions.
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aww its a shame they arent digitzed. id really love to see the originals of all of them. sometimes things get lost when translated or pulled out of context... someone's summery is as good as an opinion, not as a matter of fact. plus to see the manuscrips in the original hand is a real treat in itself. this is what i enjoy more than the models... it gives this hobby purpose n makes our models that much more special as i explain to my viewers what it represents instead of just "a nice ship Paul" n a pat on the back.
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where can i see the documents?... do have the links? thanks
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my carpentry experiance, ive always used elmers wood putty. it doesnt shrink, its very easily sanded and holds to wood very well. as mentioned above, wide gaps should be fitted with wood as best as you can, then use the putty as a finish coat to seal smaller gaps. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elmer-s-4-oz-Carpenter-s-Wood-Filler-155876/311643947
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did anyone think of asking the navy for the information since the Constitution is still a commisioned ship in service? its been restored and in their care so actual documentation and references would be best stored with them. the last time i walked the decks was the year prior to the most recent restoration. the tour guides were very well versed in her history. edit: i just sent a contact form to the navy and referenced this discussion. lets see if i get a reply anytime soon? contact form here... https://www.navy.mil/Resources/Contact-Us/ april edit... no reply from the navy.
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Fractal vise on kickstarter
paul ron replied to DavidG's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
pretty cool vise. but with so many available, its just making the wheel a bit rounder. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=micro+drill+press+vise&adgrpid=1332610568930946&hvadid=83288435234468&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=98071&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83289281303982%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=28529_14565773&mcid=0ddd5da5a26330c198dfc765e47d96a8&msclkid=81b0d0d827ca12a32b8db73d9f6cf554&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_1l5ih8o93t_e -
yes wet dry sand paper.... it comes in grits as fine as 5000 silicon carbide. you can also get fine papers at auto stores. https://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B08J46MW33/ref=asc_df_B08J46MW33?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814196410705&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413763136221&psc=1
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the denatured alcohol from home depot paint section is clear. rubbing alcohol i see has a blue tint.
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i use to oil paint and learned white comes in many different formulas. eg; zink white eventually takes on a bone color as it oxidizes. where titanium white will not change color over time. another factor is what you are painting over. if your primer changes tint over time, the color coat will change as the base color bleeds through. so paint selection for each coat is very important. also note the varnish over coat may be changing to a darker color as it ages, not the white changing at all. my suspicion says its your varnish overcoat. why do you need to varnish over the enamel? its not a weathering situation or protective coating... the enamel should be sufficient. as for primers... the reason for a primer on wood is to seal it from absorbing the paint so you can get an even color coat and help from raising the grain. just use thinned paint we call a **** coat. that hardens in the surface wood and allows you to sand off the fuzz. now the finish color coat will go on evenly. sometimes you may need extra prime coat and or color coats depending how porous the wood is.
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i really love clippers and that era of sailing is facinating. glad you enjoyed the video as much as i do.
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use fuzzy thread? you can serve the line where needed. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fuzzy+thread&adgrpid=1339207666051656&hvadid=83700754322849&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=100579&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83701623121842%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=15588_13519113&mcid=1d2e051e4bdb3006a261c61713a11689&msclkid=3cbdc71cc53a19c0aac1a0c4db3940bf&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_46dpobdf8z_e ive seen fuzzy thread in joann's used for needle point to make little bears and trees in their artwork.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
well this model will be without sails for all eternity but at least the bunts are ready to recieve sails. 😁 i probably should have left bunts off but its too late to start fixing it at this point. i bit off more than i can chew this time. i was going for the extra bling on this one. my problem is the scale is a little crowded at 1:96. next ship will be 1/4". then ill have plenty of wiggle room for extra details and sails. my other problem with a larger ship is where to put it in the house? thanks -
looks like my garage full of junk in an avalanche state. your collection of machines is impresive.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
my problem is i have no sails at all but im including all the rigging as if sails are coming. so all my bunts are in place, but i dont know what to do with the free ends on the spars. do i leave the bunt ropes dangeling, and how do i keep them from droping back? what do they do in real life? the ships ive seen docked without sails have no bunts or blocks on the yards. im figuring each bunt must have a couple feet of line dangeling to be hooked to the sails when they get fitted... so in this state with no sails, i plan to make coiled hanks hanging at each block. this will also prevent the ropes from falling back. what da ya think? -
call the 800 phone number on the bottle? im sure the company would know what the problem is and probably send you a replacement. maybe the polymers are breaking down?... do you water it down? that has never happened to me, and my glue is older than christ... i buy by the gallon. worst that has ever happened, it gets thicker or congealed in the small bottle used for dispensing, but never red/brown color change.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
it sure does get crowded with a full complement of rigging. ive got a similar problem with bunt lines on a clipper, flying fish 1851 1:96. im not putting sails on, but i am trying to put her in a state of readyness, with no sails. i can belay the bunts to their pins, but what to do with the lines at the blocks on the yards? i decided on a solution of putting a bundle at each block so if sails were to be put up, the bunts are ready to be tied on. so im watching for your solution because ill be where you are soon with the same question. 🤔
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