paul ron

hopefully someone here has this saw and can measure the pullies for you? you can get them in hardware stores or machine shops. contact dremel. btw amazon is world wide too.

i took a screenshot of the parts list i the manual... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1003625/Dremel-580.html?page=15#google_vignette seems there are 2 pullies available. perhaps a call or email to dremel to get the part? https://www.dremel.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support-services another way to go is try to figure out the size of the pully by measuring the belt slack. you may also put a multi pully so you can slip the belt for a different speed. btw the blade speed in the specs is about 9000rpm. the motor runs at 10,000rpm.

im not familiar with these small lathes. i do have experiance on metal lathes, comercial machines, and wood lathes. are you working metal? an oil drip pan under the lathe and an oil feeder may be worth looking into. do you intend to do threading? there are special toolings and accessories needed for that. perhaps asking others here for literature and check out you tube videos to see how to properly and safely use your tools. videos... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=taig+desktop+metal+lathe best thing to do is use it, follow instructions, get plenty of practice.

its not unusual to diy mount a tool's motor using a hinge. the weight of the motor should be enough to tension the tool to the drive belt... if not, you can use bungies or other additional methods to tension the mount. there is no additional stresses to worry about as long as its all aligned properly.

just stain whatever wood you are using to look like redish mahogony.

i leave my strips in the toilet tank for a couple hours. they come out like wet noodles and bend very easily... in fact i can get smaller radiuses than pictured above. whatever floats ur boat...

the rub ons are hard to find in typesets or sizes let alone color. ive had pretty good results with the water slide. the paper is semi transparent so i trace the lettering off the plans using pen n ink. it would be great to find the rub ons we need. im all for the easy way out whenever i can. i hope everyone posts their sources here?

a pen torch would be more than adaquate for such a small piece. but it seems by the conversation here, color is more important than heat. yes, silver solder would be fine, but some of the color matching sugestions are like killing mosquetos with a hammer. at the scale and size of the piece, the weld would appear insignificant. an eopxy fix would be more than sufficient but it's just too simple a solution.

you do realize there are brass low temp brazing rods available? https://www.amazon.com/GEOYLE-Brass-Brazing-Rods/dp/B0C7P15LC9?th=1

do you have a link to where you got your rub on letters?

oh u need white. that creates a different problem. ive made waterslide decals using my caligraphy pens n inks, i needed gold type. i coated the decals with clear satin acrilic spray before soaking in water to preserve the ink from running. perhaps try doing this using white acrilic paint on the print side of the paper?

have you considered using water slide decal paper than you can print your own via an ink jet or laser printer? https://www.amazon.com/water-slide-decals/s?k=water+slide+decals

https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Eyelet-Colors-Clothes-Making/dp/B0CM3R4NWQ/ref=sr_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-17&th=1

a simple amazon search found this.... https://www.amazon.com/small-eyelets/s?k=small+eyelets are these small enough? https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Eyelet-Colors-Clothes-Making/dp/B0CM3R4NWQ/ref=sr_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-17&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/GORGECRAFT-Quicklet-Grommets-Backing-Eyelets/dp/B0D2MGBT6T/ref=sr_1_10?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small%2Beyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-10&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Grommets-Eyelets-Backing-Grommet-Project/dp/B0DC6F3FXS/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uutbGviZ3Xg8GlX5As_CaaMToYaSzKqOIPuhhggJLDjg9G79SaGl9sJ1dN4eZZNz6EIfcEJIXNXD-usPMCurDioiJM8Agj9AMnfTTAg9Lqa5CIaF_ea4M1drf53_RabEFkAb-K8t5K0IedsY7vCfd6qjNXV-S7LCElSadUaNr61CCGN_y9heNeX9KRqs1ocARl_aCAl-77SIYJt1h-SWPmv1Oz5VF7EIdfvxafbEickO3YcPttbNEQ5EE4ROWHgE2xTM2B6Fb8azHqTV7Rmf5Nhkf5x7OYnclaEFRYCTFWE.SWjrxCHUlZgjnbPKh1VjBFmdzzvuq69NAF6GubOeCUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=small+eyelets&qid=1750424228&sr=8-7

how about brazing brass using brass rods? for brazing small parts, you dont need a torch. i use a mini butane torch. the brass rod comes in all gages, even wire form. flux is important. here is a nice article how to braze... https://weldingproperty.com/how-to-braze-brass/

i love zona razor saws and bought each one, even the one that has a few replaceable blades in the kit... that key hole blade is amazing! tpi depends on what you're cutting.

when you fabricated the posts, why werent they all made the same size or follow the plans more accurately? the dremel may be the best answer to take them down. but after making them all even with the shortest ones, will they then all be too short? how about removing them and redo it correctly? it wouldnt be too hard to take m off if sanding is knocking them off.

https://www.amazon.com/led-filament/s?k=led+filament you owe me one!

cancel the order! they should have told you the final price at check out, not surprise you after its been shipped.

check this out... https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/fluorescent-lamp now im going to see how to light them. the fiber optic may be the answer... checking checking checking....

thanks for the info... dont laugh... i once had an old monster of a 3d cnc router that ran on an ibm XT with a special board and a dongle. 3d printing machines were uv cure epoxy extruders. man that was space age technology back then.

i was refering to OS compatability, formats, subscriptions, software, blue tooth, internet... etc. can i hook it up to my DOS compter?... how about XP?... see what i mean? not the physical wiring to the computer which would probably be USB these days. my 40 year old comercial cnc had a board you installed in the computer, another was a stand alone unit or i could use a printer port.

what are the computer interface requirements?

the question is how much use will it get? i considered getting one, but after some scrutiny, i realized it will just sit next to the tredmill that has several winter coats hanging on it. the once in a blue moon i want something done... id put out a call to the guys in here that have lots of experiance and wouldnt mind making some extra gas money. besides, if i were to do my own, it would take me a long learning curve and plenty of wasted material figuring it out. then consider which machine you want... go cheap or go all out for a top of the line? go cheap usually means poor results and frustration. go over the top, great quality but a big outlay for a first time starter you may not like anyway. so is it worth the efforts?... unless you plan on doing alot of design n printing as a new hobby? a parallel experiance... photography printers. i bought a top of the line printer to make large prints. special roll paper, big tanks of ink.... and lots of waste, expensive waste. i sold it at half price when the ink ran out because a set of inks was just way to expensive. instead, when i need large prints, i go wo wallmart up the block which prints on million dollar printers. if i dont like the quality, they redo it at no extra cost. as said before, its a personal choice.