paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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ive been looking for crew as well. so far, there are many threads in the forums about 3d printing them as well as finding figures for model railroads that can be modified and repainted to fit your needs. you would think finding proper scale figures being so difficult to find raises the question why hasnt anyone capitalized on this market yet? too small, not enough demand, just not worth the time? i did find one place mentioned in those threads that has figures... https://www.megahobby.com/categories/figure-models/1-72-scale-figures/late-1800s-and-early-1900s.html .
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ya got a point there.
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yea just what i thought. but i know if it were me, id get one up pdq n work out how to see the sails too. thanks
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im working on the flying fish 1851 clipper. i was wondering if a tarp was used over the steerage during storms? i guess it would be hung from the overhead boom and guyed out to the sides to create a canopy to keep the helmsman somewhat protected. what peaked my curiosity, when visiting ships in tourist areas, they always have a canvas canopy over the wheel area. it just makes sense.
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dental tools, surgical tools... #11 scalples, hemostats, forcepts, surgical scisors in a variety of sizes, insulin needles, razor saws, dental drills, fine grit sanding papers... all available through amazon if you search them out https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dentist+tool&adgrpid=1333708176786883&hvadid=83357090446197&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=99103&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-83357120766271%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=8582_13565617&msclkid=5001b4df91271469d589d2b17ad19432&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_95o3rsdcsj_p .
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i never used these untill i saw a post on another modeling site, ships of scale. its not the kind of tool you need or heard of unless you knew someone with them. so of course i had to have one. i saw they can be used many different ways. i tried posting the link to a nice thread on how to use them but i cant post the link here, it gets rejected. im sure there are many instructional videos.
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Zona 4-in-1 Razor Saw Set
paul ron replied to GGibson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i love my razor saws... the combo set is a nice variety of blades, especially the pointed key hole blade. very useful for small plunge cutting jobs. i also bought the single back saw types. great for miter work. they are razor sharp n very accurate. -
removing those stick on discs can be a real pita. ive used a scraper to start n peel it as you get under it. then i run the machine and scrape the left overs with the scraper. i have been considering the harbor freight disc sander because my 12" is overkill. nice review n follow ups.
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- belt sander
- disc sander
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the sealer actually hardens the soft wood thus allowing you to sand off the fuzz n not raise the grain again. ive used clear acrylic, laquer, varnish, poly. all work well. my final coat of paint sits nice n flat. if your final coat of paint is thined, then light sand n recoat.
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you did a fantastic job! nice clean lines. to keep the fuzz down, a sealer n light sanding does the trick.
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several factors in detail painting... how steady a hand how sharp is the brush type and viscosity of the paint if you dont feel confident in painting the detail by hand, then carefully and accurately tape it off. to get a nice even coat, id recomend a semi gloss to flat finish. gloss tends to show brush strokes and telegraph imperfections. a good way to get a clean even coat is of course an air brush.... but your tape has to be perfect and well planned, paint has to have the correct consistancy to flow evenly. good luck with the job. i hope you come back with good news for us?
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just curious... does this motor have a centrifical switch built in? if the switch is sticking, the motor will not run properly on its starter coil causing it to overheat plus draw a conciderable more amperage eventally burning itself out. maybe the switch and cap are a hint its drawing too much; overloading the switch and starter capacitor as a result? https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric-Motor-Centriugal-Switch-PRD-PTC.php
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excelent price too. on the other end if money is no object upower has an excelent machine... https://handpiecesolutions.com/laboratory-handpieces-urawa-urawa-up500.html
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micro chucks with this handle makes drilling easy. but a motorized hand piece with the micro chucks is really the best way to go.
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these are cheap but work well. https://www.amazon.com/GYROS-Keyless-Mini-Adapter-Chuck/dp/B0000DD2N3/ref=sr_1_50_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZBGwGlbMLVw-DCj04DtiOSkjyOJiK6Kwg9in8mktZN2jwNbCHprax2fnzHm3UA9wWCuun2KzJ1Mr0U5gBETT8eAP6F8yfJGh-XGjBQPyg7g.DLnn-DoQHYmTzgqcHTic3rK2PPORWaFWORj2FsrJb94&dib_tag=se&keywords=micro+drill+chuck+adapter&qid=1726520545&sr=8-50-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&psc=1
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sounds like its time for experimenting. take a look at whats available from amazon for electroplating kits n supplies... https://www.amazon.com/electroplating-kit/s?k=electroplating+kit as a kid we use to copper plate using a penny n lemon juice with a dry cell battery.
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i love mahogany for its rich red color. im sure it will work nicely if its not going to be bent... probably a mild bend will hold up. scribe the shape from a solid piece to fit so you dont have to make any bends... hope to see how it turns out?
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perhaps double sided tape to keep the strip in place?
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it looks like a standard block plane sitting in a cradle to be used as a thickness planer for us model builders. ive never seen such a setup but it sure is a great idea to have a height adjustment to lift it like that. i can see it as a very useful tool.
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wallnut is beautiful. i used it on my clipper finished with semi gloss acrylic clear spray. my waterline and highlighted details are with Cherry and Maple. i did the decking with Maple. shes a real looker.
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Brass wire: it bends, it breaks!
paul ron replied to Mollusc's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
i bought brass wire at michaels that is soft brass and is very workable. they have the wire in several gages. -
1:1 Making real rope-stropped tackle blocks
paul ron replied to uss frolick's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
thanks. i enjoyed watching the use of old traditional hand tools. pbs had a carpenter, roy underhill's series, the wood wrights shop... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pbs+roy+underhill&iax=videos&ia=videos he would use old traditional carpentry n tools to make items from furniture to rustic shop tools n toys using hand milled lumber. ive tried my hand at tradtional carpentry and tools... it definately brought me back to basics and taught me patience and appreciation of my materials. definately a learning experiance. since then i have made many hand tools, chisels, planes and clamps plus how to apply my old way skills that modern ways disregard... eg motorized saws dont give you the feel of your wood as with hand sawing a rip vs cross cuts. using aged air dried split wood vs milled killin dry lumber we use today. but there is nothing nicer than the sound of a sharp plane peeling away clean shavings. btw the cat was a nice addition.- 1 reply
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Shellac + Bitumen
paul ron replied to Loracs's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
i know its not easy using stains and many people use them straight out of the can. ive done alot of restoration as well as furniture work. once upon a time a guy i worked with was using diluted roofing tar to do cherry grain on poplar. it came out great but im not sure how his work aged over the years. one trick with raw wood is to use a thined coat first of diluted poly... then build a color layer using diluted stain in poly adjusted to a reasonable color. lightly sand n build color with multiple coats till you get exactly what you need. if you are going after grain... very diluted stain n poly to start. the stain will settle in the grain. then light sand and work on color coats. for our scales... its tough to get a perfect color, grain is so tight and our woods are hard. practice on scraps n sooner than later you will get the feel for it. -
yes, oil over water is ok but not the other way around.
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