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paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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yes wet dry sand paper.... it comes in grits as fine as 5000 silicon carbide. you can also get fine papers at auto stores. https://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B08J46MW33/ref=asc_df_B08J46MW33?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814196410705&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413763136221&psc=1
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the denatured alcohol from home depot paint section is clear. rubbing alcohol i see has a blue tint.
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i use to oil paint and learned white comes in many different formulas. eg; zink white eventually takes on a bone color as it oxidizes. where titanium white will not change color over time. another factor is what you are painting over. if your primer changes tint over time, the color coat will change as the base color bleeds through. so paint selection for each coat is very important. also note the varnish over coat may be changing to a darker color as it ages, not the white changing at all. my suspicion says its your varnish overcoat. why do you need to varnish over the enamel? its not a weathering situation or protective coating... the enamel should be sufficient. as for primers... the reason for a primer on wood is to seal it from absorbing the paint so you can get an even color coat and help from raising the grain. just use thinned paint we call a **** coat. that hardens in the surface wood and allows you to sand off the fuzz. now the finish color coat will go on evenly. sometimes you may need extra prime coat and or color coats depending how porous the wood is.
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i really love clippers and that era of sailing is facinating. glad you enjoyed the video as much as i do.
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use fuzzy thread? you can serve the line where needed. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fuzzy+thread&adgrpid=1339207666051656&hvadid=83700754322849&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=100579&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83701623121842%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=15588_13519113&mcid=1d2e051e4bdb3006a261c61713a11689&msclkid=3cbdc71cc53a19c0aac1a0c4db3940bf&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_46dpobdf8z_e ive seen fuzzy thread in joann's used for needle point to make little bears and trees in their artwork.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
well this model will be without sails for all eternity but at least the bunts are ready to recieve sails. 😁 i probably should have left bunts off but its too late to start fixing it at this point. i bit off more than i can chew this time. i was going for the extra bling on this one. my problem is the scale is a little crowded at 1:96. next ship will be 1/4". then ill have plenty of wiggle room for extra details and sails. my other problem with a larger ship is where to put it in the house? thanks -
looks like my garage full of junk in an avalanche state. your collection of machines is impresive.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
my problem is i have no sails at all but im including all the rigging as if sails are coming. so all my bunts are in place, but i dont know what to do with the free ends on the spars. do i leave the bunt ropes dangeling, and how do i keep them from droping back? what do they do in real life? the ships ive seen docked without sails have no bunts or blocks on the yards. im figuring each bunt must have a couple feet of line dangeling to be hooked to the sails when they get fitted... so in this state with no sails, i plan to make coiled hanks hanging at each block. this will also prevent the ropes from falling back. what da ya think? -
call the 800 phone number on the bottle? im sure the company would know what the problem is and probably send you a replacement. maybe the polymers are breaking down?... do you water it down? that has never happened to me, and my glue is older than christ... i buy by the gallon. worst that has ever happened, it gets thicker or congealed in the small bottle used for dispensing, but never red/brown color change.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
paul ron replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
it sure does get crowded with a full complement of rigging. ive got a similar problem with bunt lines on a clipper, flying fish 1851 1:96. im not putting sails on, but i am trying to put her in a state of readyness, with no sails. i can belay the bunts to their pins, but what to do with the lines at the blocks on the yards? i decided on a solution of putting a bundle at each block so if sails were to be put up, the bunts are ready to be tied on. so im watching for your solution because ill be where you are soon with the same question. 🤔 -
any pictures of rigols?
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Best Marine Salvage Airbags for Lifting Sunken Vessels?
paul ron replied to wildtmpckjzg's topic in Nautical/Naval History
try asking at a marina. they would be more familiar with salvage methods and contractors that do that type of salvage. -
Sherline Mill Ring Light
paul ron replied to Some Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
put a yellow filter over it? question... when you dim it, does the color temperature change or is it dimmed by pulse width modulation n keeps the same temp? -
Sherline Mill Ring Light
paul ron replied to Some Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
nicely done! i may do something similar for my drill press although it will have to be with a much larger hole to clear a 1/2" chuck. and will be fixed so it wont travel wtth the quill. right now ive got a light on a goose neck but i hate the side shadow. thanks -
this is a nice source for model figures of all sorts... https://www.temu.com/ho-scale-model-doll-g-601099753954848.html?_oak_mp_inf=EKC8vIqn1ogBGiA1Zjc2YmIxMjZiM2Q0NTVhYTA4YTViNWZmNDVjNTYzYyCKkLXmzDI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Ffancy%2F10827998-97b3-4058-baa4-aab62e4010cf.jpg&spec_gallery_id=601099753954848&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTE1MQ&_oak_gallery_order=2131116873%2C1669953825%2C861107002%2C1157520576%2C397497976&search_key=mini character figurines&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_x_sessn_id=g0tlk6v5zp&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1738616715763_tmjyu9wdyz
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well the term of finishing, "varnishing" or "shellaking," has changed over the years and became synonymous although they are chemically different. shellac is a natural excretion of a bug, varnish is made of other resins and has also evolved to polyurethane made of polymers refered to also as varnish. maybe this link can describe the differences.... https://www.hgtv.com/how-to/home-improvement/what-s-the-difference-between-polyurethane--varnish--shellac-and regardless of what you use, id rather not mix finishes.
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hahaha not confused.... wrong emoji.. but if the plans say 3mm, go with the smaller 3mm chuckies, especially if you feel they look better. regardless, im sure no matter which you use, the ship will be awsome! i have a few similar problems of choices or discrepancies ive managed to work out. plans vs research and how to compromise a solution to fit the model. sometimes its too late to make changes, and it turns out regretable, at least in my mind. my very smart 10yr old grand daughter says no one will ever know and still think its an awsome ship. because the viewers dont really look at it as a perfect scaled replica, they just see the wow factor of how amazing it is you can do this with so much detail. my ships dont go on display in museums, they sit on shelves collecting dust for 50 years. they still get the wows but no one gets close enough to see all the mistakes or shuda couldas. my grand daughter has sworn to secrecy.
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whethere you use varnish and/or shellac, keep in mind its a static model, not furniture thats exposed to usage and needs a protective finish. our ships get a nice finish to look pretty. imho, I'd use one or the other, not both. shellac is alcohol based, varnish is oil based (or water based).. each has a different hardness when cured. the different types can present separation as it ages with expansion and contraction of the wood due to seasonal humidity changes and the difference between how each finish reacts to it. the first thined coat of whatever you use is the "sealer" coat. it penetrates the very surface of the wood to help keep grain from raising and sealing the softer part of wood so it wont soak more than the harder parts in the grain... this will help give an even finish coat. you'll lightly sand between the sealer and finish coat to ultimately allow the final coat to self level evenly.
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Other Hook Sizes All other fishing hook sizes smaller than 1/0 are then measured by whole number only. For example a #1 or ‘number one hook’ or #5 ‘number five hook’ etc. The tricky part here is that unlike the ought sizes where the larger the number, the larger the hook- now it becomes reversed; the larger the number the smaller the hook. For example, hooks sizes from smallest to largest would be #10, #8, #6, #4, #2, #1, 1/0, 3/0, 5/0, 6/0 etc. Sizes go well beyond what is shown in these charts! The smallest commercially available hook size is a #32 and the largest is 27/0! you would be surprised how small hooks can be. i tied flys as a kid. we had real sporting goods shops that had everything you could imagine. i use to buy tiny thin wire hooks to make gnats. ive used fish hooks recently i bought at kmart. they were perfect for my 1:96 clipper. shopping for hooks is better at the stores so you can see them. i hate online shopping. today, cabellas may be your best bet.. email them. although im sure there must be some mom n pop shops that cater to fly fishing, you may be able to find these tiny fishing hooks. https://panfishnation.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Webp.net-resizeimage-2021-04-23T003927.563-1024x422.jpg
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why not cut the eyes of fishing hooks? they come in many sizes from tiny fly tying to big monster shark sized hooks. they are cheap, sold in bulk and come in gold, silver, blackened steel, brown... and even red green n blue these days. making your own for custom sized eyes does take time and after a few, you get the knack of it. you will make them by the dozens in no time at all. ive made eyes using 34ga ni cr wire wrapped around a sewing needle only because at that size, its the only way to do it. the bigger eyes are fishing hooks.
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poplar, walnut, teak. ... its hard to see in a picture to make a pos id.
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out of curiosity, i did an autopsy on one of those led flikering candles to see if it had some kind of control electronics... there is NO electronics at all! the led has all the flickering built in. so if you want flickering cabins or lanterns, just pull the led out of the candles and wire m up in parallel with a 3v power source n you are good to go. these led flickering tea lights are dirt cheap at dollar stores. so cheap, even the batteries, 2 AR44 buttons, are more expensive if bought seperately. i get m at dollar tree, 3 for $1.25. cant beat that! so im going to make lanterns for all my ships.
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a weak bleach solution will kill and get rid of the mold stains. i had somethig similar with mold stains, bleach worked like a charm.
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any pictures to see older uncoated vs coated in aged models?
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