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paul ron

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Everything posted by paul ron

  1. you did a fantastic job! nice clean lines. to keep the fuzz down, a sealer n light sanding does the trick.
  2. several factors in detail painting... how steady a hand how sharp is the brush type and viscosity of the paint if you dont feel confident in painting the detail by hand, then carefully and accurately tape it off. to get a nice even coat, id recomend a semi gloss to flat finish. gloss tends to show brush strokes and telegraph imperfections. a good way to get a clean even coat is of course an air brush.... but your tape has to be perfect and well planned, paint has to have the correct consistancy to flow evenly. good luck with the job. i hope you come back with good news for us?
  3. just curious... does this motor have a centrifical switch built in? if the switch is sticking, the motor will not run properly on its starter coil causing it to overheat plus draw a conciderable more amperage eventally burning itself out. maybe the switch and cap are a hint its drawing too much; overloading the switch and starter capacitor as a result? https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric-Motor-Centriugal-Switch-PRD-PTC.php
  4. excelent price too. on the other end if money is no object upower has an excelent machine... https://handpiecesolutions.com/laboratory-handpieces-urawa-urawa-up500.html
  5. micro chucks with this handle makes drilling easy. but a motorized hand piece with the micro chucks is really the best way to go.
  6. these are cheap but work well. https://www.amazon.com/GYROS-Keyless-Mini-Adapter-Chuck/dp/B0000DD2N3/ref=sr_1_50_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZBGwGlbMLVw-DCj04DtiOSkjyOJiK6Kwg9in8mktZN2jwNbCHprax2fnzHm3UA9wWCuun2KzJ1Mr0U5gBETT8eAP6F8yfJGh-XGjBQPyg7g.DLnn-DoQHYmTzgqcHTic3rK2PPORWaFWORj2FsrJb94&dib_tag=se&keywords=micro+drill+chuck+adapter&qid=1726520545&sr=8-50-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&psc=1
  7. sounds like its time for experimenting. take a look at whats available from amazon for electroplating kits n supplies... https://www.amazon.com/electroplating-kit/s?k=electroplating+kit as a kid we use to copper plate using a penny n lemon juice with a dry cell battery.
  8. i love mahogany for its rich red color. im sure it will work nicely if its not going to be bent... probably a mild bend will hold up. scribe the shape from a solid piece to fit so you dont have to make any bends... hope to see how it turns out?
  9. perhaps double sided tape to keep the strip in place?
  10. it looks like a standard block plane sitting in a cradle to be used as a thickness planer for us model builders. ive never seen such a setup but it sure is a great idea to have a height adjustment to lift it like that. i can see it as a very useful tool.
  11. wallnut is beautiful. i used it on my clipper finished with semi gloss acrylic clear spray. my waterline and highlighted details are with Cherry and Maple. i did the decking with Maple. shes a real looker.
  12. i bought brass wire at michaels that is soft brass and is very workable. they have the wire in several gages.
  13. thanks. i enjoyed watching the use of old traditional hand tools. pbs had a carpenter, roy underhill's series, the wood wrights shop... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pbs+roy+underhill&iax=videos&ia=videos he would use old traditional carpentry n tools to make items from furniture to rustic shop tools n toys using hand milled lumber. ive tried my hand at tradtional carpentry and tools... it definately brought me back to basics and taught me patience and appreciation of my materials. definately a learning experiance. since then i have made many hand tools, chisels, planes and clamps plus how to apply my old way skills that modern ways disregard... eg motorized saws dont give you the feel of your wood as with hand sawing a rip vs cross cuts. using aged air dried split wood vs milled killin dry lumber we use today. but there is nothing nicer than the sound of a sharp plane peeling away clean shavings. btw the cat was a nice addition.
  14. i know its not easy using stains and many people use them straight out of the can. ive done alot of restoration as well as furniture work. once upon a time a guy i worked with was using diluted roofing tar to do cherry grain on poplar. it came out great but im not sure how his work aged over the years. one trick with raw wood is to use a thined coat first of diluted poly... then build a color layer using diluted stain in poly adjusted to a reasonable color. lightly sand n build color with multiple coats till you get exactly what you need. if you are going after grain... very diluted stain n poly to start. the stain will settle in the grain. then light sand and work on color coats. for our scales... its tough to get a perfect color, grain is so tight and our woods are hard. practice on scraps n sooner than later you will get the feel for it.
  15. wood stains didnt do the trick?
  16. the 45deg makes better sense. i expected to see answers saying it depends... but im sure there were standards regardless of depends. ill do some more digging into the manufacturing of traditional Maritime ropes. thanks
  17. i see alot of you use scale rope on your models. im planning to do the same on my next models and in the process of making a rope walk. curiosity has set in as to how many twists per foot does real rope have? ... say for 1850s clippers like the flying fish, the cloud, cutty sark... etc? is that taken into account for scale ropes?
  18. seems everyone ecept me are on social media... i only vist 2 or 3 hobby specific forums. i just figured you had a site for the benifit of this thread. you do have beautiful work.
  19. you can soften the brass by heating it with a torch. you can tap the curve over a metal bar. the z dimention is noted as... x y z im sure.
  20. omg! they are so beautiful. you really mastered 3d printing. very impressive. do you have a site with prices n perhaps rates for custom services?
  21. thats a great machine. wish i had one. the press in sleeves are easily replaced if it ever needs. i restored my ancient craftsman wood lathe 40 yeas ago. standard sized parts. the part that had the most wear was the thrust bearings. but if you have no or very little runout, you are good to go. btw i like the old worn paint look better... it has a certain experianced patina. have fun restoring it! this is where you will discover how overbuilt it really is. enjoy paul
  22. so its an angle finder app? i cant see using a phone or tablet to setup an angle for cutting. those clear plastic protractors seem good enough for most work. but if you need better resolution... the digitals are very good. https://sciencytools.com/the-7-best-digital-protractor-for-your-toolbox/
  23. why would you use a protractor app for?
  24. unrealistic and amateurish?... so what! if it pleases you and solves your space issue... go for it! are you displaying it in a museum or entering a contest as an exact replica, being judged by the realistic police? do what you think is best for you. im sure anyone seeing your model will be impressed by your workmanship regardless of how realistic or amateurish it looks.
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