paul ron
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Posts posted by paul ron
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a pen torch would be more than adaquate for such a small piece.
but it seems by the conversation here, color is more important than heat.
yes, silver solder would be fine, but some of the color matching sugestions are like killing mosquetos with a hammer. at the scale and size of the piece, the weld would appear insignificant. an eopxy fix would be more than sufficient but it's just too simple a solution.
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you do realize there are brass low temp brazing rods available?
https://www.amazon.com/GEOYLE-Brass-Brazing-Rods/dp/B0C7P15LC9?th=1
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9 hours ago, Dr PR said:
I have had problems finding the right size and color decals for various types of markings. This prompted me to find another way to make the markings.
I found rub-on letters and numbers in the correct font (that can be a challenge in itself). To get the final markings:
do you have a link to where you got your rub on letters?
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oh u need white. that creates a different problem. ive made waterslide decals using my caligraphy pens n inks, i needed gold type.
i coated the decals with clear satin acrilic spray before soaking in water to preserve the ink from running. perhaps try doing this using white acrilic paint on the print side of the paper?
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have you considered using water slide decal paper than you can print your own via an ink jet or laser printer?
https://www.amazon.com/water-slide-decals/s?k=water+slide+decals
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a simple amazon search found this....
https://www.amazon.com/small-eyelets/s?k=small+eyelets
are these small enough?
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how about brazing brass using brass rods?
for brazing small parts, you dont need a torch. i use a mini butane torch. the brass rod comes in all gages, even wire form. flux is important.
here is a nice article how to braze...
https://weldingproperty.com/how-to-braze-brass/
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i love zona razor saws and bought each one, even the one that has a few replaceable blades in the kit... that key hole blade is amazing!
tpi depends on what you're cutting.
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when you fabricated the posts, why werent they all made the same size or follow the plans more accurately?
the dremel may be the best answer to take them down. but after making them all even with the shortest ones, will they then all be too short?
how about removing them and redo it correctly? it wouldnt be too hard to take m off if sanding is knocking them off.
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On 5/28/2025 at 10:16 AM, Desertanimal said:
I placed an order last week at Dry Dock models for some blocks and things. They are in Canada, I’m in the US. I spent about $35. It was shipped UPS so I was just tracking it to see when I can expect it. There is a notice that there is a balance due.
Click here to pay…. $61 in tariffs.
That is a problem. 😡😡
Chris
cancel the order! they should have told you the final price at check out, not surprise you after its been shipped.
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check this out...
https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/fluorescent-lamp
now im going to see how to light them. the fiber optic may be the answer... checking checking checking....
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3 hours ago, thibaultron said:
For CNC machining , as far as software, you will need at least windows 10, for compatibility with the other software. UGS software (free) is used to drive the CNC router directly from your computer, with newer CNC machines, via an USB cable. Some of the newest machine can use a thumb drive directly, to cut the file.
To create the cutting files you need a "Creator" program to generate the cut files. The general ones are Easel (a very basic program, with limited 3D object usefulness). It requires an on going subscription. Carbide Create, better but not full 3D object machining and limited 3D model creation) also a subscription based program, with a high monthly fee. VCarve, Desktop ~$350 to purchase, no monthly subscription. For modeling you will still need to use some type of 3D CAD program to create the original scale model. The typical two used are both subscription based SketchUp and Fusion 360. I have not tried it but Blender is supposed to also be able to create 3D files that you can use to send the the CNC programs previously mentioned, and it is free! Others will have to chime in on the Blender option.
thanks for the info...
dont laugh... i once had an old monster of a 3d cnc router that ran on an ibm XT with a special board and a dongle. 3d printing machines were uv cure epoxy extruders. man that was space age technology back then.
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21 hours ago, tmj said:
Either connect to computer 'or' transfer files via flash drive.
i was refering to OS compatability, formats, subscriptions, software, blue tooth, internet... etc. can i hook it up to my DOS compter?... how about XP?... see what i mean?
not the physical wiring to the computer which would probably be USB these days. my 40 year old comercial cnc had a board you installed in the computer, another was a stand alone unit or i could use a printer port.
- kgstakes and thibaultron
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12 hours ago, tmj said:
I too considered a laser, but opted to purchase a tabletop CNC router instead. Cheaper to purchase, cheaper to repair and takes up way less space. No laser char to deal with either! You can also carve 3D objects with the router where you can't with a laser. The below CNC router, on Amazon, also sells a 4th axis accessory that rotates like a lathe for carving round items. I think, for the money, a good CNC router is a lot more versatile than a laser.
what are the computer interface requirements?
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the question is how much use will it get? i considered getting one, but after some scrutiny, i realized it will just sit next to the tredmill that has several winter coats hanging on it.
the once in a blue moon i want something done... id put out a call to the guys in here that have lots of experiance and wouldnt mind making some extra gas money. besides, if i were to do my own, it would take me a long learning curve and plenty of wasted material figuring it out.
then consider which machine you want... go cheap or go all out for a top of the line? go cheap usually means poor results and frustration. go over the top, great quality but a big outlay for a first time starter you may not like anyway.
so is it worth the efforts?... unless you plan on doing alot of design n printing as a new hobby?
a parallel experiance... photography printers. i bought a top of the line printer to make large prints. special roll paper, big tanks of ink.... and lots of waste, expensive waste. i sold it at half price when the ink ran out because a set of inks was just way to expensive. instead, when i need large prints, i go wo wallmart up the block which prints on million dollar printers. if i dont like the quality, they redo it at no extra cost.
as said before, its a personal choice.
- tmj, grsjax and thibaultron
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21 hours ago, SardonicMeow said:
Phil, I found a picture of the mystery sail on the Lynx. Have a look at https://schoonerwoodwind.com/star-spangled-sailabration/ and scroll about halfway down. You'll see that Lynx has a two-part fore course. I have no idea if this arrangement would have existed historically.
Photo credit: Ken Kaye
now this makes alot of sense. i built a topsail schooner 40 years ago but always wondered if it had the extra sails. seems a waste having the empty yard n no sails. we all know that every inch of space is always utilized, especially if it means more speed.
thanks for all the research ian and meow. this is the best part of our hobby.
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what gage material are you working with? how wide are the pieces you will be working with?
the small sheer combo machines referenced above are nice because you have a few functions in one machine.. and the price is right. most hobby metal cutting is done with tin snips or by scoring n bending. the cutter you are looking at is miserable for sheet metal. as you lower the blade, the metal shifts.
again, what you are working with, and the dimentions, determine the best tool for the job.
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start your build and get or invent tools as you go. i used a band saw for cutting planks but really needed a table saw which really improved accuracy.
then as i went along, i got a scroll saw to speed up the process instead of using a jewlers saw for intricate patterns.
jigs n clamps are made as needed.
so just start the project and decide on tools as you go... otherwise you will spend your budget on stuff you dont need and become a tool junkie instead of a modeler.
edit... an important tool... get one of those mini cordless hand drills like the dremels. you can get a nice one for about $30 on amazon. someone once did a review of a couple nice hand drills. just be sure the chuck can take dental burrs. you'll also need a mini chuck that has an 1/8"shaft and can close to zero for those tiny number wire drills.
btw dental burrs are great and can be bought fairly cheap.
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well since my last posting, i dug out my drafting equipment and got all the ruling pens together for a quick try.
a couple of them were cacked up with india ink. i cleaned all the pens. for my experiments i used a water based ink for calligraphy i got for the grand kids. they were metalics and opaque colors which do look great. i adjusted the pen so the tips just barely met. a dip about 1/2" and a quick wipe and pen to paper.
i really never used these although i may have for the drafting classes. so with a bit of adjustments, drawing was very nice. i got very consistant width lines and even flow. it reminded me of using a fountain pen and speedball pens with fine nibbs. it was a pleasant experiance. i think ill be using these pens more often now that I've gotten a feel for them.
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found this for your saw.
https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2977.0
in post #8 ....
"Slitting saws can be purchased from Victor Machinery: https://www.victornet.com/ I deal with them for many things and am a happy customer and not connected to them in any way." -
i love clippers. thanks for sharing.
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it takes a steady hand to get those lines straight. thanks for the video.
edit...
i remeber as a kid taking up drafting, i bought an expensive compass kit that had that pen as an accessory. but instead of using that ruling pen, we used drafting ink koi nor pens, they came in different widths n weights.
after seeing your video i dug through my tools and found my compass set to try the ruling pen. its one of those lost arts like fountain pens and speedball pens for caligraphy (another hobby of mine), which i still use to this day.
thanks for inspiring me. here is a basic tutorial i found online showing how to use the ruling pen. ill try it later tonight thanking you for the fun.
https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
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the rub ons are hard to find in typesets or sizes let alone color.
ive had pretty good results with the water slide. the paper is semi transparent so i trace the lettering off the plans using pen n ink. it would be great to find the rub ons we need. im all for the easy way out whenever i can.
i hope everyone posts their sources here?