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Boccherini

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  1. Boccherini
    Thanks Phil. Spent some time this afternoon twisting 0.17 & 0.27mm copper wire. With my glasses and a head loupe it looks a little like wire cable; without the magnification it has an approximate appearance of chain. Grant.
  2. Boccherini
    Persistence has it's rewards. The book linked by Highwayman (Rudimentary treatise on masting, mast-making, and rigging of ships by Robert Kipping), if I've understood it correctly, provides sufficient information to work out the chain sizes. This knowledge has created problem.....the smallest chain obtainable afaik is up to 42 links per inch, which works for the bobstays and jibboom shrouds, but not for the sheets etc.. These range from (if my reckoning is correct) 65 to 106 links per inch at 1:60. Any suggestions on how to imitate chain at this scale? Grant.
  3. Boccherini
    Pat, Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your reply adds to and/or confirms what little information I have managed to acquire. The link Highwayman provided has some useful content, unfortunately the format (manually scanned) makes it difficult for me to work with. Persistence is required. Thanks for interrupting your holiday to reply. Regards, Grant.
  4. Boccherini
    Thanks for the link. Had a quick look at it, interesting. Thanks again. Grant.
  5. Boccherini
    Now why didn't I think of that. Thanks.
  6. Boccherini
    Thanks for the assistance Allan. Ed Tosti's Young America log is monumental, trying to find a specific topic is a lucky dip. I'll ask if he can direct me to the relevant section....... if it exists. Thanks again, Grant.
  7. Boccherini
    Allan, Harriet McGregor, 1871, 3 masted barque, 331 tons. Tasmania, Australia. Grant.
  8. Boccherini
    I'm about to start drilling holes into masts for sheaves to accommodate chain tyes for the upper yards. Underhill only provides sizes for hemp and wire. Are there any tables of chain sizes available for the various tyes, sheets, downhauls etc.? Any help appreciated. Grant
  9. Boccherini
    The issue has resolved itself. I checked last night, using the same bookmarked link, everything is ok. Patient inaction (or ignore it and it'll go away), proved to be an effective strategy. Grant.
  10. Boccherini
    Dave, you're not an orphan. I had the exact same issue last weekend, gave up in the end. Good luck. Regards, Grant.
  11. Boccherini
    Thanks Tony, "shippy" 😄. What was once vacant space is quickly filling. Thanks Glen. Strops for blocks: I made a couple of "forms" out of brass to keep the strops basically identical. The "slot" in the top form is redundant, just the first version in the development of the idea. The join was always on a side, to allow for brazing the eyes on either end as needed. The eye and the top of the strop was cut through after brazing, allowing the strop to be opened up sufficiently to slide over the block. It was then pinched closed, completing the job. It was easiest to thread several strops onto a jeweller's saw, prior to clamping and cutting. There were slight variations the size of my hand made blocks, I can live with the minor imperfections this caused. Apologies for the picture quality. Attaching the stropped blocks to the jack stay created a problem, too many brazed joints in close proximity for my skill level to cope with. It worked out easier to braze only one side of the shackle, then open and close it over the eye on the jack stay. This is difficult to see without magnification, if the unbrazed joint is on the mast side of the jack stay, no one will notice. Grant.
  12. Boccherini
    Deckhouses: These were built in a similar fashion to the wheelhouse Grant.
  13. Boccherini
    Workshop is temporarily out of action for a long overdue clean up. Time to catch up on the log. Mizzen top stuff up Too much time was spent making things from drawings in "Masting & Rigging......" without referencing the rigging plan. This shows a top.....without deadeyes and shrouds for the top mast. Several people kindly provided some pictures that appear to show a single shroud either side. Any attempt to magnify the pictures for some definitive answer were pixelated into obscurity. My eyesight, not being what it used to be, was not helpful. I've run with what appears to be the easiest solution. A cut through the trestle trees just shy of the bottom left a sliver that peeled off thanks to isopropanol. Then a rebuild of the top with a single spreader. End result is most satisfactory. Grant.
  14. Boccherini
    Thanks Keith.
  15. Boccherini
    Allan &Henry, Which gives a diameter of up to 14.2mm or approximately 9/16''. Were seizings the same size as the serving? It appears my 8.5mm dia serving and seizings are not far off. Underhill reckons it's better to be undersized than over. Doesn't offend those "cursed" with laser vision, who can spot anomalies at a glance from the other side of the room . I was wondering about increasing the size when getting to the main/fore mast rigging. Some time off at present. Grant.
  16. Boccherini
    Henry, Richard, It turned out the problem was self inflicted. I used the smallest thread on hand (DMC Cordonnet #100), which was way over size. The solution: separate the 3 strands that make up the #100. I have no idea if these are the right size, but at 1:60, they represent 8.5mm dia rope. This looks a whole lot better. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Regards, Grant.
  17. Boccherini
    I have started to make up shrouds and stays. One thing stands out: the thread used for serving the lower shrouds looks completely inappropriate / out of proportion on the shrouds and stays further up the mast. It's particularly obvious on single stays/shrouds that have been bent around the mast to form an eye when viewed from the side. The frapping turns add to the bulk. I've tried leaving the frapping turns off, still looks a bit bulky from the side. Are there any guidelines for: 1) the correct sizing of serving? 2) the number of and distance between bands of lashing on single shrouds/stays with an eye? Please excuse any incorrect terminology, I'm in "uncharted waters". Grant.
  18. Boccherini
    Thanks Roger.
  19. Boccherini
    Lessons, observations, comments (call them what you will, I'm not fussed).....I appreciate that you take the time to share your knowledge. I checked Kelvin's patent: 1876. Harriet McGregor (the ship, not Mr. McGregor's wife): 1871 - 1895. Thanks again, Grant.
  20. Boccherini
    Wefalk, I appreciate the lesson, thanks. I've included the balls because they are shown on the plan. I have discovered some discrepancies between the plans and pictures that are still available. Which leaves me in a quandary, correct things or not. At present, I'm leaning toward not bothering. There are so many other mistakes, it's probably not worth the effort. The model is becoming a very lengthy teaching moment. In spite of the mistakes, I'm committed to completing her. Much still to be learned in the process. Regards, Grant.
  21. Boccherini
    Thanks for the information John. Why "quadrantal" correctors? I was under the impression they were used to compensate for the effect of iron/steel used in a ship's construction. Regards, Grant.
  22. Boccherini
    Thanks Wefalk. Compass: this was an interesting project, the most "complex" in my short hobby machinist career. I forgot to take pictures of the compass base process. The compass base and top were from 8mm brass rod cut down to 6.5mm to allow for the bottom flange, then down to 5mm for the two parts of the compass. The wings were folded from .25mm brass sheet. The base was drilled out to reduce the possibility of melting the "wings" during brazing. I had to use solder wire, paste dried out before it melted while trying to heat the parts without melting the "wings". The wire required use of flux paste, this also prevented the solder from smearing all over the place, wrecking the finish. Epoxy resin was used to assemble the finished item. A pin was epoxied into the base to locate it on the skylight. The finished item is 7mm high. I'll possibly paint the 2 compensating spheres, 1 red, the other green. Grant.
  23. Boccherini
    Companionway: managed to get this done on the first attempt. The roof is a bit awkward, it curves in 2 directions. This was built the same way as the wheelhouse, around a ply core. Some sloppy trimming chipped an edge of the roof, it seemed easiest to carefully cut out a section and replace it. The planks for the hatch cover were formed and glued together over the companionway roof with a layer of tape separating the two. It was the only practical way to match the curvature. Grant.
  24. Boccherini
    John, that took a while to figure out, some weeks (months?) my brain is not quite what it used to be. At least I eventually arrive at the right place. Thanks Steven. Grant.
  25. Boccherini
    Not sure what to call this structure. It took three attempts to obtain a satisfactory result, partly as a result of not understanding what the plan actually represented. Got there in the end. The "roof" has since been painted white. I lightly glued two pieces of wood together (at the ends and in the middle of the cut outs), set that up on the mill, cut the slots for the "bars" top and bottom, then cut out the openings. The rest was just gluing the bits together similar to the wheelhouse. The "glass" is cut from transparent photocopier film rubbed with 400 wet/dry to give a frosted (salt crusted) appearance. Grant.

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