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Boccherini

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Everything posted by Boccherini

  1. Boccherini
    The dead eyes were rough formed with a shaped cutting tool and finished off with small files. I initially tried drilling the dead eyes in the traditional fashion, without much success. The mill provided a solution, using the dividing head with timber posts turned to fit inside providing support whilst drilling. The top of the post are a slightly smaller diameter than the dead eyes, allowing the jaws to hold them firmly. The larger dead eyes are 4.9mm dia, and the smaller 4.1mm dia.. Grant.
  2. Boccherini
    The dead eyes are made from lemon wood harvested from a tree cut down 7 years ago to make way for an extension to the house. It was quarter sawn, the ends dipped in wax, then left to dry in my workshop. The pieces used didn't warp too much, and were surprisingly easy to roughly square with a hand plane, then finish on the table saw. "Rounding" the square section timber was done in a simple jig using a thumb plane. The pieces ended up as 16 sided, and rounded enough to fit into the collets on the lathe.
  3. Boccherini
    Thanks Nils. The cap rails are now fitted and pinned in place. Like the pin rails, they were made in 3 sections with scarfed joints. These won't be permanently fixed until the slots to accommodate the deadeye straps have been cut in. I'm thinking this might be easier done off the model. I have made a prototype deadeye/strap assembly. Currently busy making deadeyes. Grant.
  4. Boccherini
    Thanks Nils. The pieces were cut from a sheet of copper foil and stuck on with contact cement. Regards, Grant.
  5. Boccherini
    I thought it prudent to make and install the bulwark fairleads for the sheets from the main and fore courses before fixing the pinrails. The sheaves are 1.4mm dia x 0.9mm thick, turning them on the lathe was not difficult, finishing them off proved to be quite fiddly. Holding them in a wire eye in pliers made things easier. I am not sure as to the correct size of the fairlead assembly, lacking any specifications. I have tacked a prototype to the bulwark (prior to cutting it in), to get an idea of the proportions. Could anyone with knowledge of these things let me know if it looks about right. Given the era (1860's), is it possible the sheave would be in an iron housing bolted to the bulwark? Grant.
  6. Boccherini
    Bob, John, thanks, it's good to be back in the workshop. Regards, Grant.
  7. Boccherini
    Been off with the fairies for eight months, thanks for the comments, my apologies for not responding earlier. Hey bolster55, thanks for the information, is the book about the Harriet McGregor, or is she just part of it? Pin rails were made up in 3 sections a side with scarfed joints. Grant.
  8. Boccherini
    Mark, thanks for your thoughts. Anton, you detailed reply is much appreciated. Thanks, Grant.
  9. Boccherini
    Anton, thanks for the interest. I couldn't fit enough of the plan to get everything, however, you can see the main & fore sheets going through bulwark fairleads. There is an issue with the main sheet fairlead, it is obstructed by the ladder to the poop deck. This has given me pause to speculate that the rigging plan is drawn as 'typical' for the period, not on the known rigging plan of the ship. Or it could just be a drafting oversight? I am using Underhill's "Masting & Rigging......" book as a guide for this model. He does mention that the book is a general guide only, that there were variations in use at the time. What is the size of a fairlead for a 28mm line? Regards, Grant.
  10. Boccherini
    Anton, thanks for that, however the rigging plan shows bulwark fairleads for both. Plans are by Harold Underhill. Another Perth resident, cool. Regards, Grant.
  11. Boccherini
    Richard, the current syringe full is manufactured by a Swiss company, Hilderbrand & Cie (it's 770 deg C melt point), I have used other brands with equal success. The brand doesn't matter. Have a look at some jewellers suppliers web sites, silver solder paste is readily available. One thing you do need to remember when using it: the surfaces to be joined need to be in contact with each other, this stuff does not fill gaps well. Regards, Grant.
  12. Boccherini
    Richard, several things to consider. The copper may be coated with something. If I suspect my materials are coated, heating them to a dull red color (prior to doing the soldering) generally burns it all off. A quick clean with emery cloth or a file is sufficient preparation before soldering. I have used small pieces of silver solder wire with flux, but the process was awkward or frustrating or both. For several years now, I have been using jewellers silver solder paste. It comes in 3 temperature grades and is sold in syringes from jewellers suppliers. I have had no problems soldering copper to copper, brass to brass and copper to brass using a small butane torch. There is no need for flux. Cleanliness, though, is still important. Regards. Grant.
  13. Boccherini
    I am looking for diagrams or pictures of bulwark fairleads (for the main and fore sheets) for a wooden barque circa 1860. Some indication of size or proportion with regards to the rigging size would be helpful. I am not sure whether they should be sheaved or just lined holes in the bulwark, so any advice regarding this would also be appreciated. Thanks, Grant.
  14. Boccherini
    Mick, just finished cruising through your log, you've done a great job. Congratulations. Regards, Grant.
  15. Boccherini
    Boyd, the collets are a better option, but they do not grip smaller sized drill bits, hence the chuck, unless you have a set of bits with shanks all the same size. My mill kit came with 1,2&3mm end mills. I purchased several other other sizes not long after out of necessity, they were Kyocera end mills with 3mm shanks. Regards, Grant.
  16. Boccherini
    Boyd, precision vice, dividing attachment and a micromot keyless chuck. The keyless chuck will take smaller drill bits than the collets. Regards, Grant.
  17. Boccherini
    S.Coleman, thanks for the warning. JerseyCity Frankie, thanks for your thoughts. I ended up with a spacing varying between 12-14 inches. The belaying pins @ 1:60 will be 8mm long with the diameter 0.8mm for the top and 0.5mm for the bottom. I intend to use copper wire 'bolts' to fix the pinrails to the frames. Regards, Grant.
  18. Boccherini
    wq3296, thanks for your thoughts on this. Regards, Grant.
  19. Boccherini
    I am currently making the pin rails for my 'Harriet McGregor' (c1860). It will be easier to drill the holes for the belaying pins prior to fitting the pin rails in place. My problem is the spacing and location of the holes. Underhill (Masting & Rigging.......), shows the majority of holes located in the area of the shrouds/backstays, with a few others in various specific areas. Is this accurate, or are there holes equally spaced along the entire length of the pin rails (which he hasn't shown for the sake of clarity)? What would be the "normal" distance between belaying pins? Grant.
  20. Boccherini
    I have no idea of the name for these parts added, but it's one less fiddly project completed. Grant.
  21. Boccherini
    You're probably right, scrubbing in acetone worked eventually. Grant.
  22. Boccherini
    Thanks David. The powdery residue is probably from the Blacken it, maybe I did not rinse it sufficiently after immersion. Capstan consists of copper and brass parts. Regards, Grant.
  23. Boccherini
    Thanks for the comments and likes, gentlemen. Finally had time to finish the capstan. I had a bit of trouble with the Blacken It, took 3 attempts to get it right. This has never happened before. 24 hours after the second attempt, there were large patches of of a pale green powder, which rubbed off easily enough, but the rubbing caused some of the blacking to flake off. Grant.
  24. Boccherini
    Mir0n, that is a lovely piece of workmanship. Regards, Grant
  25. Boccherini
    Raymond, that is a fine looking cross section, the extras have made it an interesting model. Congratulations on a job well done, something to be proud of. Regards, Grant.

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