mitchel

I see what you mean. You get a thin paper layer to place on the frames and then a thicker paper layer to go over that. I don't like the way the deck looks. It looks too perfect and the planks are not realistic in my view. The treenails? on the planking are round circles and don't look right. I have some thin wood strips of veneer and I also have a roll of beech-looking paper. I'm thinking of laying this over the 'perfect' decking.

So, at long, long, long, last.....life has given me the time to pick up the model. I have come to the realisation that interruptions hamper my efforts big time. My daughter has a baby....grandparent duties come first. I am in my shed...the missus wants to go to the shops. I, therefore, go to the shops and don't return to my shed. I pick up the model and bend the cardboard out of shape.....I look on the internet for a solution...and end up watching a movie. I go over the plans with a beer...and realise what a task I have ahead of me...so I have the beer instead.
No excuses here.....just telling it like it is.
But after so many false starts I am ON IT!
Making a period ship model has been a wish I have had all my life. I made ALL the Airfix/ Revell ones. I vividly recall doing the WASA and SOTS and wondering why there was a crowsnest on the bowsprit. 
I have the monograph from Ancre of Le Gros Ventre. A wood model that I hope to build one day.
I guess what I am trying to say here is that I have had many a false dawn with this model, but I believe I am finally ready to give it another go. 

Hi Alan. Yeah, I'll take that on the chin. I just need to find tutorials about how to actually work with paper and cardboard so as to give me a chance to do a decent job of it. Things like how to iron out humps and fill in hollows.

So, at long, long, long, last.....life has given me the time to pick up the model. I have come to the realisation that interruptions hamper my efforts big time. My daughter has a baby....grandparent duties come first. I am in my shed...the missus wants to go to the shops. I, therefore, go to the shops and don't return to my shed. I pick up the model and bend the cardboard out of shape.....I look on the internet for a solution...and end up watching a movie. I go over the plans with a beer...and realise what a task I have ahead of me...so I have the beer instead.
No excuses here.....just telling it like it is.
But after so many false starts I am ON IT!
Making a period ship model has been a wish I have had all my life. I made ALL the Airfix/ Revell ones. I vividly recall doing the WASA and SOTS and wondering why there was a crowsnest on the bowsprit. 
I have the monograph from Ancre of Le Gros Ventre. A wood model that I hope to build one day.
I guess what I am trying to say here is that I have had many a false dawn with this model, but I believe I am finally ready to give it another go. 

I saw a video on YT where a guy used wood veneer to overlay onto the paper on the ships hull. He felt that the cardboard in the kit was 'too perfect' to give a realistic effect. I was thinking of doing the same. Has anyone used veneer rolls? The type that you iron on? Can it be sanded down? Glued with PVA/Superglue?

Hello everyone. A lot has happened over the years. I was made redundant (4 times) and I put the build away in the wardrobe where it has stayed since. I have 2 more grandkids now and I will retire New Year 2024. I now have a shed where I can work instead of the dining table. The ship is still exactly as I posted. So sorry for letting you all down over the time but I will make amends.

Hello everyone. A lot has happened over the years. I was made redundant (4 times) and I put the build away in the wardrobe where it has stayed since. I have 2 more grandkids now and I will retire New Year 2024. I now have a shed where I can work instead of the dining table. The ship is still exactly as I posted. So sorry for letting you all down over the time but I will make amends.

Here is a look of the inside of the instructions book. The book is a mixture of building instructions and the actual cardboard for the build. I am also crossing out the letters/numbers of the pieces I have used as I go along so that I don't miss anything. If the letter isn't crossed out then I assume that I haven't used it.
 

 

I thought the bulkead formers were a bit weak so I added pieces of paper to the bulkhead/horizontal formers. Not the neatest job I have ever done...
 

 
The transom formers are incredibly weak and just touching them breaks them easily..I will need to make a scratch version of the one I snapped and build the hull at the stern first to minimize any more breaks. The rest of the hull is quite sturdy.. 
 

 

 

Here are a few more photos. I am only dry fitting before I use any glue. You can see the numbering of the bulkheads here..
 

 
I turned the model upside down to help make a snug fit of horizontal formers and damaged the upper tips of the fo'csle..
 

 
The bulkhead formers make a snug fit but I need to re-inforce the hull I think. Any suggestions? I am thinking of glueing vertical strips either side of the bulkeads and giving the whole structure a 'wash' with watered down glue.
 
And finally, a photo of the whole ship so far..
 

Hello everyone
 
Well Christmas has come and gone and as promised I am starting a build log. One thing to notice straight off is that I have named the ship Enterprise with an 'S' rather than 'Z' which is the spelling on the kit. Not a big deal but something I want to do.
Now as stated in the title this is a card model. I have never done anything like this before so with the help of all you good people here I hope I can do her justice.
 
Here are 2 photos of the kit.
 

 

Hello,

thank you for the interest!

Just wanted to see what the 18-pounders of La Créole look like in the style of a historic postcard.
In this context, a small note: The four 18-pounders, which were set up as part of the original equipment on the La Créole in 1829,
were actually a bit dated at this time. This type of cannon was based on a system from 1786.
Later, in 1837, these 18-pounders were replaced by 30 pounders of the Paixhans system.

Absolutely stunning work. Completely gobsmacked.

Have I hell. Gotta be honest though, I haven't pushed myself to get back to it either. Thant's gonna change. 

Hello everyone
My, doesn't time fly!
My grandson is 2 now and my daughter is moving out soon. Things should get back to normal in a few weeks. Over the months I have tried working on the kitchen worktops and in the bedroom but for me it just doesn't work. I even put the ship back on the table, but the little fella is always inquisitive and I end up putting the ship away again.
 
With a bit of luck I should be back soon.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 279 – Main Yard Stuns'l Booms
 
The main yard was fitted with the two topmast studdingsail booms.  These supporedt the clews of the topmast studdingsails as well as the lower studdingsail yards that weresuspended from the ends of each when these sails were set.  The booms were 42 feet long and 8 3/8" in diameter over their center sections.  They taper to about 5 ¾" at the ends.  All the drawing dimensions are expressed in full size decimals to permit easy conversion based on scale.  The 1/72 converted sizes may be seen penciled on the drawing in the first picture.
 

 
The picture shows a finished boom and the "first trim" of the second – a squared length of Castello marked with centerlines and the two points at the ends pf the straight section.  The boom is grooved for jewel blocks at the outboard end and drilled for a lashing at the inboard end.  The inner hole was also used to fix a temporary tackle for hauling out the boom.  The next picture shows a finished boom set in the boom irons in the retracted position.
 

 
The booms were shaped by the process described in earlier posts, then polished and finished with wipe-on polyurethane as described earlier.   The next picture shows both booms lashed to jackstay stanchions at the inboard ends.
 

 
The next picture shows a close-up of a lashing.
 

 
I used untarred hemp for these and all lashings or fixings that would have been temporary.  Because of the offset of the booms from the yard centerlines and the gradual taper of the yard, the booms are actually deflected somewhat to pull them fast to the stanchion.  The last picture shows the end of the starboard boom after lashing on the two 9" jewel blocks.
 

 
The upper block handled the sheet for the topmast studding sail, the lower block the halyard for the lower stuns'l yard.  The outer iron is sized for the diameter of the boom's center section.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 276 – Main Yard Truss
 
The main yard truss described here, and the mizzen version, are identical to the fore yard truss.  The basic shapes shown in the first picture were cut out using a band saw with a 1/8" metal-cutting blade with a pasted-on pattern scrap as a guide. 
 

 
I cut both main and mizzen at this stage to avoid another band saw blade change later.  I used the band saw to save time vs. the jewelers saw.  The basic profile of the truss was then filed out as shown below in the next two pictures.
 


 
The eyes at the ends were marked with dividers set from the band brackets on the yard, then drilled to accept 20 gauge copper wire.  The unfinished yoke is shown in a test fit in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the yoke has been rounded, polished, and again fitted to the yard band brackets.
 

 
The center hole for the truss arm bolt is shown in this picture with a straight length of 20 gauge wire inserted.  The next picture shows the fabricated truss arm.
 

 
The arm was made using sections of telescoping tube.  The eye that will fit into the mast band bracket was fitted into a slot at one end and silver-soldered.  A short length of 20 gauge wire was soldered into the other end.  In the next picture a flange has been soldered to the wire to hold the arm on the yoke, but allowing it to rotate.
 

 
The assembly is set up, upside down, for bolting to the yard band brackets.  Heads were first formed on one end of the copper bolts.  They were then inserted from the top side o be clipped off just above the bracket surface and peened like the right-hand bolt in the picture.  A square ended punch was tapped with a hammer in the position shown to enlarge the bolt head like a rivet.  The left hand bolt is not yet clipped.  The last picture shows the truss installed on the yard.
 

 
This picture shows the top of the yard.  All soldered band joints, though not very visible, were positioned out-of-sight under the yard.
 
 
Ed

Absolutely stunning work. Completely gobsmacked.

Absolutely stunning work. Completely gobsmacked.

Absolutely stunning work. Completely gobsmacked.

.......wow..........mind blown........micro magnificence

Hello everyone
My, doesn't time fly!
My grandson is 2 now and my daughter is moving out soon. Things should get back to normal in a few weeks. Over the months I have tried working on the kitchen worktops and in the bedroom but for me it just doesn't work. I even put the ship back on the table, but the little fella is always inquisitive and I end up putting the ship away again.
 
With a bit of luck I should be back soon.

Here is a look of the inside of the instructions book. The book is a mixture of building instructions and the actual cardboard for the build. I am also crossing out the letters/numbers of the pieces I have used as I go along so that I don't miss anything. If the letter isn't crossed out then I assume that I haven't used it.
 

 

I thought the bulkead formers were a bit weak so I added pieces of paper to the bulkhead/horizontal formers. Not the neatest job I have ever done...
 

 
The transom formers are incredibly weak and just touching them breaks them easily..I will need to make a scratch version of the one I snapped and build the hull at the stern first to minimize any more breaks. The rest of the hull is quite sturdy.. 
 

 

 

Here are a few more photos. I am only dry fitting before I use any glue. You can see the numbering of the bulkheads here..
 

 
I turned the model upside down to help make a snug fit of horizontal formers and damaged the upper tips of the fo'csle..
 

 
The bulkhead formers make a snug fit but I need to re-inforce the hull I think. Any suggestions? I am thinking of glueing vertical strips either side of the bulkeads and giving the whole structure a 'wash' with watered down glue.
 
And finally, a photo of the whole ship so far..