Jump to content

Aussie048

Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to GaryKap in Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48   
    Bigcreekdad, thanks for dropping by.  And here is a progress report for everyone.  I thought it was time to mount the hull on its permanent display stand.  I found the lovely, dense piece of white oak at Black Dog Salvage in Roanoke, Virginia (seen on DIY TV as "salvage dawgs").  It was part of an old timber, and I like to think the tree that produced it was growing at the time that Fair American was sailing.  No stain - just a couple coats of tung oil and I am happy with the way that it looks.
     
    Notice that there is a companionway at the quarterdeck now.  It is not glued in yet, but you get the idea.
     
    I have started on the cannons.  I took those lovely 14 shiny brass cannon barrels and turned them gunmetal grey with a brass darkening solution.  I used the heavy brass wire supplied in the kit to make the trunnions.  I cut them to length, darkened them with the solution, and then glued them into the barrels with superglue.  (this sequence is important - if you glue them in before darkening them, the inevitable blob of glue will not darken and will stand out boldly)
     
    I am using the technique demonstrated by Modeler12 in his video to make the eyebolts and rings for the gun carriage rigging. 
     
    That's all for now.  <<Gary>>



  2. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to Tadeusz43 in Tool suggestions   
    Tools I use for rigging.
    Clamps are used for preliminary tensioning of threads prior the final arrangement of rigging
    as also for marking individual threads for proper belaying it.
    Mini drill is suitable for cleaning holes in blocks if was blocked by glue or lacquer.
    Extra thin copper wire is the best solution for pass threads through blocks.

     
    Tadeusz
     
    My models:
    From kits
    Vasa, HMS Victory, Le Solei Royale, Friesland
    From scratch
    HMS Warrior 1860, Esplanade, Grosse Yacht
    Norman’s ship, HMS Speedy, La Royale
    Peter von Danzig
    Polacca XVII cent.
    Current project:
    SS Savannah 1818
  3. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to JesseLee in Scottish Maid by JesseLee - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:50   
    Stated adding the hinges to the rudder. Dilled hole in rudder to join spigot. (The instructions showed it pined with a brass wire but that was too weak of a joint). Drilled hole through deck for the rudder spigot & completed hinges. Glued in the rudder & added paint above waterline. Hinges got a little scarred up during assembly so I decided to blacken them. Realized I don't have anything to darken the metal I went with flat black paint. Not what I wanted but the paint does help fill in & hide the scars & scratches.




  4. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to hexnut in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut - Midwest Products - 1:24 - 1st wooden ship build   
    Thanks guys, much appreciated.  Tom, I keep generating lots of reasons to be humble, but at least the glue blobs will be planked and painted over.     Are you bringing the Vinal Haven to New London?  I'd love to see it in person! 
     
    As per request, here are some more pics:




     
    I also started making the keel and centerboard. The tapering keel is an interesting feature that I wanted to replicate, cutting the centerboard slot should have been very straightforward, but it took me 3 tries...


    Finally, here is the hull with the cockpit rough- cut out.  I made the rear portion with the frames all the way across the top of the deck. This made it easier to register the top to a center-line, made it more twist-resistant during construction and allowed easier fairing of the compound curves in the deck surface.
    Besides, it was fun hacking through it once I had it glued together.

     
     
     
     
  5. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to hexnut in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut - Midwest Products - 1:24 - 1st wooden ship build   
    I finally got all the frames stuck together:
     

  6. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to Keith B in HMS Victory by Keith B - FINISHED - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Had a good couple of days in the workshop so far this week. While waiting for things to dry I've been making some of the gun carriages up,and also sizing and tapering the sections of masts.

  7. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to Keith B in HMS Victory by Keith B - FINISHED - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Thought I'd do a bit of painting next,before I start putting any other parts on the hull exterior,as it makes it so much easier to mask up if there aren't any lumps and bumps in the way.

  8. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to Keith B in HMS Victory by Keith B - FINISHED - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Well,after nearly 2 weeks the coppering's done,except the rudder.About 1700 plates.I ordered 2000,so I've got some left towards the next project! I must say that it gets a bit tedious,but I think the end result is so much better than just painting it,as the kit instructions expect.

  9. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to Keith B in HMS Victory by Keith B - FINISHED - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Planking's just about done,lots of trimming and sanding to do,but a bit bored with that now,so I thought I'd try my hand at coppering for the last couple of hours of the day.Never done it before,but I'm dead chuffed with how it's beginning to look!

  10. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to dewalt57 in H.M.S. Triton (Cross Section) 1:18 Scale, started by AL   
    Ray..... Pretty cool looking, too bad I can't cut anything with that much detail at this scale. Had to re-design the baby pacifiers ( cascabels ) ... LOL The Poplar wood would not hold up without tear outs on the thin edge, so made the cut at a different place. Cutting the first test part as we speak. 
     

     

     
     
    AL
  11. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to ziled68 in H.M.S. Triton (Cross Section) 1:18 Scale, started by AL   
    Hey Al,
    You are doing some excellent work with your cannons. Since I went on vacation to see my granddaughter, I can't help but see the last few pictures as pacifiers. LOL. Do not worry, I know that they are actually the cascabels for your cannons. I can't wait to see more progress on your build. Since we're talking cascabels, what do you think of this one? Pretty ornate isn't it?

  12. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to dewalt57 in H.M.S. Triton (Cross Section) 1:18 Scale, started by AL   
    Got the Cannon dowel jig completed!! Now I can hold the cannon blank and cnc drill the barrel hole. Made from Poplar wood and a block of Nylon.
     
     
     

     

     

     
    Also got the rear end of the Cannon just about ready to start some test cuts on!
     

     

     
     
    AL
     
     
     
     
  13. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to dewalt57 in H.M.S. Triton (Cross Section) 1:18 Scale, started by AL   
    Got the 2nd Cannon Cut but had a collision between the bit and the part during a move doing an end trim!! Just nicked it a tad, a little bondo and she'll be ok.... LOL It was my Boo-Boo in some hand made gcode I did, I told the machine to move from one end to the other and drop in height at the same time, the machine is blind and so must I be at times because I didn't think about it hitting as it went to the other end... LOL  Another problem I need to work on is drilling the barrel hole, I normally use my HF mini-lathe 7x10 to bore a hole in a shaft but these Cannons are too long for the tailstock & bit to accommodate them. So I'll need to make a jig that holds the blank vertical and drill on the Cnc wood mill.
     
    The cannons pivot shaft hole was bored from both sides, I feared a tear out of the wood as the bit came out the other side so I only bored half way, did I 180 degree rotation and bored again into the same hole location. I was a tiny bit off but close enough to make it work with no wood tear out in the poplar wood. The gcode to do that simple thing had to be coded by hand, the expensive gcode software can't do it!!! So now my gcode is getting more things to do, one step at a time, I can bore the pivot hole & trim the ends by Cnc. It's still taking roughly  2-1/2 hours to make one Cannon, not exactly production run speed by any means..... LOL
     
     
     

     

     

     

     
     
    AL
  14. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to NMBROOK in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel





  15. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to @macbride in Shenandoah by @macbride - Corel - first build   
    I think the trim around the hull looks really nice, and I haven't even sanded or stained it yet!
    Almost looks like I know what I'm doing!!! (Ha ha ha!!!!)
     
    Cheers!
     
    Andy
  16. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to patrickmil in Constitution by patrickmil - Model Shipways - 1/76th   
    It's been two weeks since I've posted on this log. If you're wondering "What the h**l has that guy been doing?" I'm here to explain. When I started on the Niagara I had some suspicions that the bulkheads weren't matching from the left side to the right side. I started to get that feeling with Connie too. I checked the plans and even the plans didn't have perfectly matching contours when comparing the left and right sides (I'll use proper sea-going terms when this starts to look like a ship). The sides of my ship are not matching up to one another despite carefully aligning the center lines of them to the center line of my false keel. This is going to make life difficult when trying to plank given my slight case of OCD with this build. To try and correct this I cut apart plan sheet one into the separate bulkheads and then made copies of them all. This will also help with future builds of sister ships   . The pictures I've included today are of my plans, the Connie skeleton with the poplar blocks sanded down, and my start to adding wood to the bulkheads so I can get them to the proper shape and mirror imaged from left to right. I've also included a picture of another project that has stolen from my ship building time and the lazy shipyard overseer. Thanks for looking in.







  17. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to oldpaperone in USf Confederacy by oldpaperone - Model Shipways - now in Australia   
    Thanks for the supportive comments.
    I glued in the frames and faired these to the hull - this removed the laser char.
    Thanks for the watchful eye, Ben. Its good to know I have masters watching over my progress.

    The frames were then treated with wipe on poly (with  a DASH of oak stain).

    Next the stern ports - aligning the sills.


    Then the lintels and mullions

    And then the whole frame in place and faired.

     
  18. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to oldpaperone in USf Confederacy by oldpaperone - Model Shipways - now in Australia   
    I meant the separating tabs between the exposed frames.

    But as you pointed out ,Chuck, these do become covered by the planking.
     
    Next - the box is painted and the frames are going in.

  19. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    While I keep adding Varnish to Keel 3 , I started on Keel 4, This one will have a working Retractable Center Board, a working Rudder and I am going to open the frames up in the cabin area. Here are the results



  20. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    Today On keel #3, I Stained and got one coat of varnish on the birch ply on frame #1 then did a few other areas out as well (Transom). Here are the results



  21. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    Today I finished Installing the frames. I then decided to add a piece of 3/32" birch plywood to frame #1 it will be easier to do it now than later. I will then stain it with a Minwax Provincial and then varnish. Here are the results



  22. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    Last Night I did Manage to squeeze in a few hours, so I installed the transom, beefed up the seat section behind frame 4 (this helps keep everything square) added the keel strips and stared fairing the rabbet line. Here are the results


  23. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    Today I did manage to get a few hours in and finished up the Rudder area, (A standard wood tooth pick works well) I then Started to install
     the frames and breasthook. Here are the results



  24. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    The first thing I would like to do , is to have a working rudder. I went back to the Chapelle drawing and added the divit ( for lack of a better term)at the end of the keel. I then Figured out the center line for the Rudder, and removed a 1/8" slot in the keel. I then made up 2 pieces of 1/8" to fit against frame #4, this will make the transom stronger and at the rabbit line I can then blend in the Keel strip. Here are the results


  25. Like
    Aussie048 reacted to pete48 in Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL   
    This Is my Second Build log ,( First scratch ) .  The plan is to build a Muscongus bay sloop with working rudder and retractable centerboard. This may take 2 boats to get me there. I will be starting this build with Keel #3 . There was a lot of research and comparison"s made to the Midwest kit That I built. Keel # 1 & 2  are on the Kit build log (although keel #2 was built just to get the hull planking correct ) . Keel #3 will also have a planked deck (possibly sprung)



×
×
  • Create New...