Aussie048

The waterway.......

Still a bit of work on the sails.
Mauro

The ship on its base .......
Mauro

thay haved to shaped yet if i do that it will have bad bend again just like befor i dont want that
 
 
 
this is what it will look like when i shape the beams to much of a bend i think
 

ok now i have had to redo the deck i just got it sitting on the deck beams its as bent as it was befor trying real hard to get this right   let me know what u all thank u all for helping me 
  
 

here an update the deck lines are bad on the ship i have to re do the decks so i took of the frist deck came off just fine i got lucky nothing broke here the pic to see whats on

 
 

just a little update iam starting to ad the blocks for the gun ports as u will see in the pic  its to get them right when the plans are not 1to1  instructions book is so bad u get 7 pages no pic in the book at all looking on the msw web site going thu dont see to many to go by doing the best i can do all i can do is just take my time check the 4 times glue one time that my moto 

ok a bit of an update  i now have the bow filler in place  so far so good  still working on stern fillers hers a pic   

I had to cut back the planks in the curve to allow the scrollwork to fit.  Better that than reduce the size of the scroll which is the most important visual detail.
 

 
Von_Kossa and I both ran into the same problem with the top two planks that form a vertical band.  If you follow the bulkheads those planks lift to the center.  They are also a little fat on the ends.  They must be dragged down to get them level which leaves a fair amount of bulkhead to be cut off.  The bulkheads are also cut with the profile for those two planks too deep.  It takes a lot of sanding to cut them back far enough that the planks lay against each other.  It is still a little high (I missed it) which I will have to cut back.  I am holding off on the scroll pieces on the inside of the stem and stern to avoid damage as I work.
 
This sure is fun!
 

 

I stripped off the back layer of the inside piece of scrollwork with a scalpel blade so that it would lay flat with the rest of the scrollwork.
 
  
 
There is a spacer at the top of the scrollwork where it pinches together.  It is sanded down and glued to the top of the structure.  There is also a small spacer needed where the scrollwork meets.
 

 
Another small piece cut to fit at the bottom of the scroll.  Also, a full hull length spacer at the top of the hull planking to give the last two vertical planks a place to land.  Obechi was specified but it would not take the bend without cracking so I used basswood.   I soaked it and bent it with a curling iron.
 

 
Added the last two vertical planks.
 

Middle gun deck ports cut out and false cannon blocks in place on deck.
 
Vince P.

Build log part 32
 
 
 
 
 

Walking Planks at the boat stations, and further vents
 

funnel, vents, wheelstand, two compas stands, Skylight and rudderposition indicators, the boat is just for checking available space in length
 

 

nav light Towers (here still without lanterns)
 

Forward vents, radar-bar, fog horn and forecastle raft Containments mounted
 

 
 

cradle device for strapping raft containers
 

 
 

 

navlight containments
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 33 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 31
 
 
 
 
 

aft deckhouse (command cabin and nav- and Chart-room) and spare aft anchor.
the blue guy had always become too much Porridge as a Baby already and now has to leave the Crew for his size
 

chest-cover to sit on, for the auilliary rudder mechanics, here still without wheel
 

 

 

 

some brass pinrails to the deckhouse, and the main rudderstand saddle for the 3 steering wheels, this rudderstand (the wheels) is operated manualy if necessary by up to 6 men
 

 
 

the Long boom outside starboard bulwark is swivible and required for fastening the boats in water (when rigged 90° square to the hull). The brass wire through the top spanner-eyelets is only preliminary and prevents the spanners from tilting down between bulwarks and inboard pinrails
 

 
 

vents and Skylight added on top of the small well-deckhouse
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 32 to follow.....
 
Nils

All the decks are now glued in place and the upper sections of the bulkheads and decks are faired.
 

 

 
I’ve been reading over the instruction manual and delving into some of the other Mayflower build logs for information on planking the decks.  Looking at the plans and the photos in the manual it looks as though the deck planks are laid down in very long sections.
 
I’m not sure what length these planks should be, but I’m thinking of making them about 1.5 to 2 inches in length.  There is an illustration in the manual showing the deck planks much shorter than depicted in the photos.  Any thoughts on this?
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 48 – Starboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting
 
In the first picture, the floor ceiling planking is installed except for Treenailing.  The thicker bilge ceiling above it  has been completed up to the underside of the lower deck clamp, except for the bolting.
 
 
 
While the last few strakes of bilge ceiling were being installed both the bolting and treenailing was begun.  The next picture shows some of these fasteners installed.
 

 
The copper wire bolts in the thicker ceiling show as bright dots in this picture.  They were iron bolts driven through each frame and riveted flush inside and out.  Before finish is applied these will be blackened.  This section of floor planking below the thicker strakes has been treenailed and some sanding has begun.  The butt ends of these planks were secured with iron blunts, represented here by black monofilament CA glued in.
 
All of the tree nailing was completed in three sessions that included making the treenail strips from bamboo skewers.  In the next picture one of these .020” strips has been dipped in glue and is being inserted into a predrilled hole.
 

 
The holes are just large enough for a slip fit.  After pressing to the bottom of the hole using the clippers, the strip is cut off as shown below, the new end is sharpened with a razor blade and the process is repeated a few hundred times.
 

 
The excess glue is washed off with clean water.  When dry the nail heads are filed off flush as shown below.
 

 
The planking was then sanded with 120-grit followed by 220-grit paper and then buffed with Scotchbrite as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the area at the stern after these steps.
 

 
The next picture shows a section of the ceiling after all of the treenailing was installed and the planking sanded and buffed. 
 

 
The wire bolting of the thicker strakes is only partially complete on the right side of this picture. The treenails are not too pronounced in this picture, but they will “pop out” and be more visible when finish is applied later.  The iron bolts at the butts are quite visible here.  The copper bolts into the top of the keelson at the lower margin of the picture were copper and will not be blacked.
 
All of the ceiling work on the starboard side is now complete.  The next step will be to sand down the bolts on the outside of the frames and then move on to the ceiling on the port side.
 
 Ed

Good evering to all the forum upgrade works  on the Cutty whitt a brass wire  frame .
I made the structure  of the figurehead  and Das  modeled the ninfi Nannie  finished
and Painted and made a bow hact  and grating .
Hello to all and good model
Giancarlo

Thanks  to all , l update my site whit  some pictures  we advance it small steps ,to youyour comments
Giancarlo

the hull is finally finished. i had to order twice to get enough mahogany to cover it all. the second batch (bought from another shop, not very smart) was much lighter than the first, but i put it on anyway, and have a plan on how to get the right color later. it was not until after i had finished the planking that i noticed that the new "mahogany" was suspiciously similar to red paduc. after a quick comparison i could confirm it was the paduc i had received, not mahogany. but it's too late to take it off now, so i'll just have to live with it...
 
i've started ti put in the little "frame" things (not sure what it's called) after dressing the inside of the railing. i painted it red, and so will the guncarts be.
 
and of course, it had to happen, the beak broke.. again! (second time now, same place). this time i fixed it with a brass rod for reinforcement.
 
i also replaced the front part of the railing with regular basswood (it came precut in plywood in the kit) because of the weird bend i would have to make to it to fit. that ment i lost all the little things that were supposed to support the hand rail (no sure that's what it's called). so i have to replace them and i chose square brass rods that i will secure with round brass rods inside that goes into predrilled holes (if that made sense to anyone)... the little wood pieces on the rail are tips of toothpick to keep paint from clogging the holes.

and some more pics.
the rudder is dressed in 0.5 x 5 mm thick mahogany strips. that's what i used to dress the hull too after the first planking. the stern is almost finished, just need to mount the gunports and guns. 
the guns themselves were brass, so i painted them with a mix of regular wood glue and a type of black powder i got in a hobby shop.

Repost of my previous build log of the Vasa by Billing boats.
 
So, let's see if i can get out some pictures in the right order 😉

The keelson is made with five pieces and I used 20 gauge brass pins at each joint. I also installed the mast and capstan steps at this time.
 

Hi Daniel,
 
This set of photos shows where the main strength of the stern comes from and after it is planked it becomes very strong. I will be glad to answer any questions you have. I think the photos are fairly explanatory. I used another low tech jig to install the stern dead wood with.

This set of photos shows the stern framing completed.
 

This is a few more progress photos of the stern assembly.
 

This morning I continued to rig the first cannon. As I mentioned in yesterday’s log, I decided to change the seizing material on the cannon end of the blocks to rope rather than wire. This looks better and is a bit more flexible until CA is added to fix it. Once this was completed, I drilled the additional holes in the ship on either side of the port hole I was going to do the initial fitting in. I chose the Starboard porthole just aft of the gangway. I removed the cannon from the jig and changed out the seizing’s. Then I returned it to the jig and used the jig to align the required rings to the bulkhead ends. Once these were attached I performed a test fitting on the ship. After I was satisfied, I proceeded to start gluing the rings into the bulkhead starting with the innermost blocks, then working my way out through the breeching line then the outermost blocks - alternating gluing first one side then the other. I then cut the extended rope ends from the blocks so they would reach the appropriate part of the deck. I glued these ends to the deck.
 
For the coils, I took a large framing nail, and cut two pieces out of it. I drilled two equally sized holes in a small block with a slight distance between them. I used  files and the rotary tool to round than end on each piece and polish the pins smoothly. These I CA’ed into the block. Then taking the same line I used in the blocks, I waxed a length, and wrapped it lightly around the pins. The sliding it off I added  half twist to the coil and wrapped the end around it.
 
The photos below show the current cannon installation. I have not yet glued the cannon or the coils to the deck. I wanted to give it a rest and look at it again tomorrow before I did that. However, I am pretty happy with the result. Since the Mamoli is a different scale than the MS most of you are used to, I thought I would add a penny to some of the photos for scale.