Anguirel

Hi Chad,
 
Thanks for posting this again, I already learned a lot...
Just one question about the treenails, I have looked in the other logs but I can't find one where the wales were treenailed (maybe difficult to see it he images?). In the case of your wales (and some others) you used ebony. In that case the treenails should be made of ebony as well, right? How difficult it will be to make the treenails with the method you used?
 
Thanks.

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Hi,
 
Thanks for the comments and likes. Leaving a bit of wood on the sides seems logic in order to have an uniform surface after assembly. My question in this case is if I'm using treenails or copper wire to simulate nails fastening for the futtock and chocks, since these will be on the inside should I do them after assembly and fairing?
 
Thanks

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Hi all,
 
I have been following many off the logs for years now. I have built two ships and I'm half way through the Santissima Trinidad (kits) but I was always amazed with the models on the scratch build section... i finally mustered the courage to try one myself. The Triton cross section seemed the perfect candidate, not too big, not too small. And the Group Project give the necessary support to new people like me.I ordered the wood from the wood list in the first post and I started as soon as it arrived. I have the three peices from the first drawing ready and now request access to the rest of the plans.
 

 

 

 
A side note about the woods I'm using. Like I said I order the wood list from the topic's first post. I contacted two online stores and gave them the wood list. One of the stores said they didn't had some of the wood types I was requesting so I ordered the all lot in boxwood. This was the store that replied first. One day after paying I got the answer from the second store. They had all the wood types I wanted for a bit more them the first. Since I wanted to test different wood as well I proceeded with the second order. The problem was when the wood arrived. From the first store (just boxwood) the wood arrived like this:

All strips of wood in individual labeled bags. The wood from the second store arrived like this:

No labels with sizes or wood type which made it very difficult since I don't recognise the woods.
One other difference was the finishing the wood from the second store they weren't sanded

 
The biggest problem is that some the wood from the second store is not squared

The keel (in the image) was one of the strips that was not squared.
 
My question is: is this normal? Or this is something I should complain? Specially the not square thing, which just adds another level of complication...
 
Thanks in advance,
Anguirel

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Finished what I could with is first try.
 

 
On this pair the left side scarph is broken. I first try to do it with a carving knife but when doing the flat part of the scarph the corner of the edge broke. The others were done with the mill. I guess I have to make a jig because even with the mill the angle of some of the flat parts scarph are wrong so the top timber doesn't align with the plans.
 

 
For the second pair the floor futtock is wrong. For some reason the right side of the floor is lower them the left one.
 
I'm still using this pair to train the chocks.
 
I've faired the frames to the inside of the line which I was already advised against...
 
So after trying the chocks is back to doing a new pair.
 
Thanks.

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

Thanks for all the welcomes and likes.
ChadB I don't mind the lack of sanding although the not squared this is too much for me. If I had the proper tools to do that I wouldn't need to order milled lumbe. But if this is done by conviction and not by incompetence and if it's a more or less well know fact in the community I'm ok with it. Next time I will be more specific on how I want my order or go to a different place.

Hi,
 
Thanks tkay11 and mtaylor.
 
I'm living in the US, I did't want to name names in case it was something due to ignorance on my part, which seems to be the case. Next time I will ask for the wood to be cut at exact dimensions and sanded. 
 
Thanks

Hi all,
 
I have been following many off the logs for years now. I have built two ships and I'm half way through the Santissima Trinidad (kits) but I was always amazed with the models on the scratch build section... i finally mustered the courage to try one myself. The Triton cross section seemed the perfect candidate, not too big, not too small. And the Group Project give the necessary support to new people like me.I ordered the wood from the wood list in the first post and I started as soon as it arrived. I have the three peices from the first drawing ready and now request access to the rest of the plans.
 

 

 

 
A side note about the woods I'm using. Like I said I order the wood list from the topic's first post. I contacted two online stores and gave them the wood list. One of the stores said they didn't had some of the wood types I was requesting so I ordered the all lot in boxwood. This was the store that replied first. One day after paying I got the answer from the second store. They had all the wood types I wanted for a bit more them the first. Since I wanted to test different wood as well I proceeded with the second order. The problem was when the wood arrived. From the first store (just boxwood) the wood arrived like this:

All strips of wood in individual labeled bags. The wood from the second store arrived like this:

No labels with sizes or wood type which made it very difficult since I don't recognise the woods.
One other difference was the finishing the wood from the second store they weren't sanded

 
The biggest problem is that some the wood from the second store is not squared

The keel (in the image) was one of the strips that was not squared.
 
My question is: is this normal? Or this is something I should complain? Specially the not square thing, which just adds another level of complication...
 
Thanks in advance,
Anguirel

Thanks for all the welcomes and likes.
ChadB I don't mind the lack of sanding although the not squared this is too much for me. If I had the proper tools to do that I wouldn't need to order milled lumbe. But if this is done by conviction and not by incompetence and if it's a more or less well know fact in the community I'm ok with it. Next time I will be more specific on how I want my order or go to a different place.

Hi,
 
Thanks tkay11 and mtaylor.
 
I'm living in the US, I did't want to name names in case it was something due to ignorance on my part, which seems to be the case. Next time I will ask for the wood to be cut at exact dimensions and sanded. 
 
Thanks

Hi,
 
Thanks tkay11 and mtaylor.
 
I'm living in the US, I did't want to name names in case it was something due to ignorance on my part, which seems to be the case. Next time I will ask for the wood to be cut at exact dimensions and sanded. 
 
Thanks

Hi all,
 
I have been following many off the logs for years now. I have built two ships and I'm half way through the Santissima Trinidad (kits) but I was always amazed with the models on the scratch build section... i finally mustered the courage to try one myself. The Triton cross section seemed the perfect candidate, not too big, not too small. And the Group Project give the necessary support to new people like me.I ordered the wood from the wood list in the first post and I started as soon as it arrived. I have the three peices from the first drawing ready and now request access to the rest of the plans.
 

 

 

 
A side note about the woods I'm using. Like I said I order the wood list from the topic's first post. I contacted two online stores and gave them the wood list. One of the stores said they didn't had some of the wood types I was requesting so I ordered the all lot in boxwood. This was the store that replied first. One day after paying I got the answer from the second store. They had all the wood types I wanted for a bit more them the first. Since I wanted to test different wood as well I proceeded with the second order. The problem was when the wood arrived. From the first store (just boxwood) the wood arrived like this:

All strips of wood in individual labeled bags. The wood from the second store arrived like this:

No labels with sizes or wood type which made it very difficult since I don't recognise the woods.
One other difference was the finishing the wood from the second store they weren't sanded

 
The biggest problem is that some the wood from the second store is not squared

The keel (in the image) was one of the strips that was not squared.
 
My question is: is this normal? Or this is something I should complain? Specially the not square thing, which just adds another level of complication...
 
Thanks in advance,
Anguirel

Hi all,
 
I have been following many off the logs for years now. I have built two ships and I'm half way through the Santissima Trinidad (kits) but I was always amazed with the models on the scratch build section... i finally mustered the courage to try one myself. The Triton cross section seemed the perfect candidate, not too big, not too small. And the Group Project give the necessary support to new people like me.I ordered the wood from the wood list in the first post and I started as soon as it arrived. I have the three peices from the first drawing ready and now request access to the rest of the plans.
 

 

 

 
A side note about the woods I'm using. Like I said I order the wood list from the topic's first post. I contacted two online stores and gave them the wood list. One of the stores said they didn't had some of the wood types I was requesting so I ordered the all lot in boxwood. This was the store that replied first. One day after paying I got the answer from the second store. They had all the wood types I wanted for a bit more them the first. Since I wanted to test different wood as well I proceeded with the second order. The problem was when the wood arrived. From the first store (just boxwood) the wood arrived like this:

All strips of wood in individual labeled bags. The wood from the second store arrived like this:

No labels with sizes or wood type which made it very difficult since I don't recognise the woods.
One other difference was the finishing the wood from the second store they weren't sanded

 
The biggest problem is that some the wood from the second store is not squared

The keel (in the image) was one of the strips that was not squared.
 
My question is: is this normal? Or this is something I should complain? Specially the not square thing, which just adds another level of complication...
 
Thanks in advance,
Anguirel

New beams have been bent and temporary installed on x-section for marking.
 

 
Drilled through frames and used straight pins to hold beams....will be planked over later to cover holes
 

 

 
Layed out most of the cross beams while main beams were on the x-section. May be hard to see the lines
 

 
Started cutting the cross beams to length..used scrap wood on miter to prevent any tear out when cutting to length.. 
Decide to use clamps to hold wood while cutting....[to close to moving blade for my fingers]
 
Here is my set up......maybe it may help someone later on. Pictures should explaing
 

 

 

 

 
Back to the shop for more sawdust