Auvergne

The Destruction Part 2.
 
I have now started to open up the waist area. Thus far I have cut the sides away. I followed the planking line so that there is at least 2 plank widths down the side of the waist area. I am tidying this part up before I attack the rear of the waist area. The deck consists of 3 ply with planking on top. Where the edge of the deck is exposed I am beveling the edge so that there is only the edge of the planking plus one ply on show.
 
I then tried the stove under the fore deck again. I took a small amount off the the top of the stub on which the flue will ultimately be fixed. The stove and riding bitt structure then went under the fore deck OK - well the condenser had to come off first. 
 
The first photo shews this test fitting (along with the woodworking detritus - needs a good clean). The edge of the fore deck to the left of the stove has been beveled - to the right the full 3 ply is still awaiting treatment. The fore deck is a bit warped (has been for some time). I will be fitting a cosmetic beam along the rear edge of the fore deck which will hopefully remove the warping.
 

 
Thus far I am still happy to open out the waist. I like the way the guns on the main gun deck are now on show and they will look much better when they are finished. I will have to put some planking in front of the cannon, and the exposed edges of the bulkhead extension, which expose the edge of the plywood from which they are made, will get a vertical plank as cover. I will probably have to put lining around the gun ports.
 
The next photo is a more general shot of the area.
 

 
Now for the twiddly bit of destruction around the rear of the waist area. 

Guys,
 
Thanks for the nice words. From great modelers like yourselves it is praise indeed.
 
Daniel,
 
The rear for the fore deck is flimsy at the moment. The stove and bitts are not yet permanently fixed. I want to plank the inside of the bulwarks and rig the visible cannon first. (I don't think I will be able to replicate your "octopus" though! ). Once the stove is fixed in place I will fit a preformed beam across the underside of the rear edge of the deck. I will have to give some consideration about supporting the ends of this beam.
 
Ferit,
 
I have been considering modeling the gratings above the stove in the "open" position. There will be one grating above the boiler/condenser end of the stove which let steam out in to the open, there was another grating over the hearth end. If the one at the hearth end is open then the hearth and spit mechanism would be visible. If I do this I would need to model the fore most riding bitts as well.
 
One problem - the main, non scale, support beam for the fore deck passes right under the position of this grating. I will have to think about that one.
 
ZyXuz,
 
Below is a scan of my tidied up diagram. Hope you can read it OK. If not let me know. If you click on the image it expands to make it easier to read.
 
If you (or Mike or whoever) wish to copy this or any other thing from this log into your log, please feel free to do so. If nothing else you will be able to make your own models look even better in comparison!          
 
If you want me to publish anything else let me know.
 
(Thinks - must finish off the soldering document that Mark suggested  ).
 

 
Right - now where did I put my hammer and chisel - time to get stuck in to the "destruction process" again.  

The Destruction Part 3.
 
I have finished chopping out bits from the waist area and have beveled all the edges to make them look tidier (and looking a lot less like three ply). I have also cut out the hole in the fore deck for the flue. I will work out some suitable sizes for the steam outlet hole and the hole for the grating above the hearth end of the stove. I need to be careful on this because the Unicorn has a beakhead bow so there is restricted room on the foredeck.
 
Some photos. The first two are before and after the destruction phase as comparison.
 
Waist as was........
 

 
Waist is it now is.............
 

 
The four holes in the deck were ones that I made a long time ago for the Coral version of the rigging and are now redundant. I will have to fill them up. 

The next view is from the fore deck looking back across the opened up waist area. The area under the quarter deck is now very visible. However, once the chain pumps, main mast, gallows and steps are in place the view will be more restricted.
 
If I had put the companion way behind the capstan (as in the Lymm) then it would have been worth modeling the lower part of the capstan which would then have been on view.
 
One of the out of scale beams is on view, but this should be masked later by a scale beam which will go across the fore edge of the quarter deck.
 

 
Finally a view from the quarter deck looking forward with the stove's flue pocking up through the fore deck.
 

 
Time to settle down to some planking inside the bulwarks. Now that is going to be fiddly.

i l be following closely too

Hi guys and gals. I wanted to show my progress on this Bireme Greek Warship the past few days.
 
First, I had to do some painting on the topside merely to show a progressive schedule I hold myself accountable for. I need to see a progressive advancement to feel as if I am actually accomplishing something. Not sure why, but that’s how I work.
 
Secondly, I have caught some mistakes; i.e. using too much glue (so instead of the glue applicator I now use a paintbrush), slow but it looks better; I don’t know how I did this but my calculations for the bow was like way off. Don’t know what I was thinking…
 
So for the bow I have had to cut away some planking and replace @ the CL of the bulkhead, where now I do not have 1 continuous piece of planking all the way through the hull from stem to stern in some areas as shown in the pictures.
 
I am learning though. Actually, I have discovered with a mixture of water & wood filler at very thin doses works well on the inside of the hull as a filling agent to cover minor and small defects. Not sure if that is actually legal or not but I did not want this baby to go to the scrap pile just yet.
 
I then sand the hull down with 400# sand paper (again, hope that’s OK), then with a #0000 steel wool to give it a flat shine and reduce any grit caused by the wood filling agent I created.
 
Once complete with the hull’s bow I will do minor aesthetics throughout the hull and then…tackle the beast, the stern, or prow…wish me luck…
 
BTW, the instructions on this thing are quite minimal…a good kit for the most part, but one must know some woodworking skills as well as a small bit of Marine Engineering, but truly, nothing major. I just like to sound as if I know what I am talking about…(DOH?!).
 
See ya’ll next time! Have a great night! I am learning folks.
 
John E (Auvergne).

Good morning friends,
 
I wanted to give you an update on my Bireme Greek Warship. It is coming along good (I am thinking), but as we all know it is not complete until the painting is complete. That is why I am making this post at this time.
 
Even though she is not complete and I have much work still yet to do I decided to paint her upper deck. I have decided to make her my own paint design. This is the only difference I will make and try to keep her anatomically correct in her historical value. (Though I have not done much research with the exception of what I have learned from Arthur and others.
 
I hope this meets with everyone and your satisfaction.
 
Have a happy day of modeling.
 
John E

Good morning friends,
 
I wanted to give you an update on my Bireme Greek Warship. It is coming along good (I am thinking), but as we all know it is not complete until the painting is complete. That is why I am making this post at this time.
 
Even though she is not complete and I have much work still yet to do I decided to paint her upper deck. I have decided to make her my own paint design. This is the only difference I will make and try to keep her anatomically correct in her historical value. (Though I have not done much research with the exception of what I have learned from Arthur and others.
 
I hope this meets with everyone and your satisfaction.
 
Have a happy day of modeling.
 
John E

Hi John,
your bireme is looking good!  I am looking forward to following your build!

Hi John
 
This looks like an interesting bulid, I`ll be following your progress.
 
mij

John,
 
This is going to make a lovely model. I am impressed with the progress that you are making.
 
By the way, if you want your photos to appear within the text rather than as thumbnails at the end - after uploading the photo file, place the cursor in the text box where you want the photo to be, then just below the tiny thumbnail of your newly uploaded file you will find "Add to Post | Delete". Hit the add to post and something like "attachment=12345:test 01.JPG" will appear in your text with square braces around it. Then if you preview or post your update the photo will appear in that part of the text.
 
Hope this was useful.

Hello John,
 
Yes, you certainly are in the proper place for this kit and off to a good start.
Thanks for starting a log and have us enjoy this build with you.
 
The photo might not be 'pretty' as you say, but your Bireme certainly will be.
I'm looking forward to your progress.
 
Good luck and happy modeling with your Bireme.
 
Anja

Here following is the better photo of my progress.

Greek Bireme 3
 
Yesterday was a very productive day on this Greek Bireme Warship. I succeeded at some of the interior decking though have yet to complete. I should have executed this portion prior to the topside decking but have had no real significant problems.
 
The carpentry on the topside was relatively easily accomplished. Once dry, I simply cut away any excess lumber with surgical curved scissors which work beautifully then filed even with a small file, though an X-Acto knife did just as well.
 
Completed the decking (or covering), on the oar shams and am ready today to continue boxing in the shams (topside & below), as well as my wales.
 
I have yet to complete the interior decking and bottom side of the hull but anticipate a good day today!
 
Hope everyone enjoys and have a great day of model shipbuilding.
 
John E
 
I am however having difficulty resizing these photos. I'll have to repost later the good shots I had after resizing, again.

Here following is the better photo of my progress.

Greek Bireme 3
 
Yesterday was a very productive day on this Greek Bireme Warship. I succeeded at some of the interior decking though have yet to complete. I should have executed this portion prior to the topside decking but have had no real significant problems.
 
The carpentry on the topside was relatively easily accomplished. Once dry, I simply cut away any excess lumber with surgical curved scissors which work beautifully then filed even with a small file, though an X-Acto knife did just as well.
 
Completed the decking (or covering), on the oar shams and am ready today to continue boxing in the shams (topside & below), as well as my wales.
 
I have yet to complete the interior decking and bottom side of the hull but anticipate a good day today!
 
Hope everyone enjoys and have a great day of model shipbuilding.
 
John E
 
I am however having difficulty resizing these photos. I'll have to repost later the good shots I had after resizing, again.

Now that's a novel use for a laptop...    Looking good.

Auvergne this is a plastic kit.  This is my 2nd ship.  Thanks for the tip on the pens.  Can I find these in any hobby store?
 
Ulises, no I just did one coat of paint.  I will give your tip a try.
 
Here are some pictures.  I showed where I messed up on the back and front.  I am still having problems figuring out how to tie the rigging.  I just glue them on.  I do like how they do the sails on this one.  They have you sew them on the posts (?).  I don't know how you guys handle those really small parts with your hands and fingers.  I have pretty small hands, and it is hard for me.
 
 
 


 

 

 

Very good Kimberly! Sorry to ask but is this a plastic kit or wood? If it is plastic I can help you paint the intricate details at the stern and bow. It helps to use a Rapidiograph Ink filled pens. They are technical pen for drafting and a .25 would work great. Chose from a wide variety of colors of acrylic ink and dab on with the pen point. Very easy, very clean, and you receive a professional look if you take your n time.
 
Best wishes to you Kimberly!
Enjoy.
 
John E (Auvergne).

Hello Kimerly,
 
I really like the manner in which you have laid out your model in sections. This reminds me as a mechanic working on Jet Engine Components overhauling items like waterpumps, fuel pumps, oil pumps, etc...I laid my parts out in the same manner but isn't it funny I failed to do the same with my model. Looks like I have to learn all over again. I believe your model will turn out brilliant and cannot wait to see the finished product. Best Wishes.
 
John

Hi everyone. Ever since I first read about the famous Sparkman and Stevens' designed yawl (built over 80 yrs ago snd she's still racing), I've wanted to build a model of her. So, after thirty years of dreaming, I've now started to build a scratch built, miniature, fully detailed model, complete with interior accommodation, etc. The model is a true miniature, ie only 15 cms approx in hull length.
 
As you can see, I have tried to adhere to full sized construction practices by using a built up keel and bent frames. All the wood was cut using my miniature table saw, which, is a lot of fun and satisfying, not to mention, cost effective.
 
I still have a long way to go before I finish the masts, winches, blocks and rigging, but it's been a hell of a lotta fun so far.
 
I hope you enjoy the model and photos. I will post more pics as work progresses.
 
Comments, feedback and suggestions are most welcomed!

Today, I just received my copy of Ancre's monograph of the cutter Le Cerf, 1779-1780.
 
 


   
It's a great product, but I really want to point out here is that if you live in the U.S., I strongly advise you to pay the extra money to order by a trackable express shipping service. I first place an order for this product on March of this year. Figuring it might take 4 or 5 weeks to get, I waited a couple months and nothing showed up, so I emailed them. 
 
I didn't hear anything back, so I posted on the Seaways mail list asking what other people's experiences were with ordering from Ancre. Next thing I know, I got an email from Ancre asking how they could help. He immediately shipped the product to me and all was looking well.
 
Then, 4 weeks went by and 6 weeks. As the 8th week was approaching, I wrote again. Mr. Didier Berti (Hubert Berti, his father, had passed away in the Spring) offered to reship it by express service if I wanted to pay the cost and I was very happy to spend the extra money this time. 
 
So, today, the book shows up at my home in California, a mere 4 days after it was shipped from France. I have the product, an excellent product by the way, and all is well.
 
Maybe shipping to other parts of the U.S. will have better luck, but for shipping to the west coast I STRONGLY advise you to pay the extra chunk of cash to order via trackable, express shipping. Anyway, you're going to want your Ancre orders quickly so you can enjoy the amazing quality of their products right away.
 
 
 
Ancre - Collection Archéologique Navale
 
 
 
At last, another happy Ancre book owner.
 
Clare

I got the hull on today, and it was not easy at all to get on.  Two cannons kept coming off, and the upper and lower deck just do not want to stay together, but they are forced together now with the hull.  I am getting a lot of practice at painting.  I don't paint the really, really tiny pieces.  I would need a microscopic brush.   There is a fancy front and back end that has some detailed painting.  I am going to see how I do.  I am really not known for my painting skills.  I am great with detail work, but not so hot when it comes to painting anything.  I always wanted to learn how to paint, but that is one artistic skill I have never managed to acquire.
 
I love metallic colors, such as gold, copper, brass, silver, etc.  I might just do a whole ship in metallic colors one of these days.
 
Ulises, I really like how you made the hull look old and weathered....very clever.

Kimberley: The Santa Maria is one of those kind of ships where the "weathering" technique really shines. Those old used and abused little ships have to be built to look really old, dirty and poorly maintained. But that's your choice, of course.
 
I will try to post some photos of my Heller's Santa Maria tomorrow, to give you an idea...

Kimberley: Here are some photos of my Santa maria. I hope you can find something useful in them. This is the Heller kit in 1/75