Auvergne

Planking from Cerry
 

 

 
Port and Starboard Serpents carved from Boxwood
 

 

 
 mij
 
 

mij

The rudder is cut from Cherry, all other items are cut from Box.
 

 
All items fitted to the decks.

Done a bit more to the Xebec.
 
Cutting out the stern
 

 
completed items cut out
 

 
I don`t normally paint my models, but as these ships were colourful, I decided to give it a bit of colour.
 

 

 

 

 

 
mij

Hi Antony
 
Thanks for your kind comments, I`m doing all the main cutting of the timber in my workshop (garage) and all the fine cutting with a razor-saw and all the gluing in the conservatoy,
 
Her in doors said NO DUST?
 

 
MIJ

I was going to use sycamore for the deck planking, but decided to use maple instead.
The size of the deck planking is 4x1mm and I used my plank bender to curve the planks.
 
Deck planking fitted
 

 
Smoothing the deck
 

 
The deck after smoothing
 

 
mij

I shall be using cherry for the hull planking (single plank), sycamore for the decks and pear for the gratings.
 
Cutting the 6x1.5mm cherry hull planking.
 

 
Cutting the pear for the gratings
 
 
 

 

 
Grating complete
 

The bulkheads have all been fitted.
 

I completed the deck furniture today. I went off plan for a couple of areas. First the plan showed a pastil green skylight just forward of the ship's wheel. None of the books or other modelers had this. It has a hatch, so I used a small piece of left over grating and framed in a hatch. There were no binnacles in the plan. So I built two and pined them to the deck just forward of the wheel.
 
The wheel in the kit was mostly metal with the center hub having two small wooden rings to make the cylinder. The holes in the wheels were not the correct size so I drilled these out. I put the wheel together last night so it was set this morning. I painted it a darker brown and added tan to the handle spokes and the center of the hubs where the star is on the ship.
 
I shaped the stern davits and glued them into place. I added the chain boards to each side. I did not add the outboard strip since I will need to be able to put the chains in before I add them.
 
After consulting with Mort Stoll, I found out the ship's kit did not include the blocks to rig the cannon. I really want to rig the cannon. So I ordered 100 ea 2.5 single and double blocks (Syren Ship Model Co) as well as a roll of brass wire so I can make the rings and hooks. I know Chuck shipped the blocks today. In the meantime, I plan on starting tapering and assembling the masts. I ordered a dowel support for my lathe. It is a full size lathe so it will be interesting trying to turn the small spindles. I did do the first section of the bow spirit and it seemed to work out well.
 
Attached is a photo taken from above showing the layout of the deck furniture. The extra black blocks on the side are real just the square holes in the workbench underneath. I still need to figure out a way to level the ship form side to side on the pedestals. I did get the taller pedestal installed today so the ship sits pretty level fore to aft. 
 
I ran out of the kit supplied cannonballs today. The additional ones are back ordered and hopefully will be in soon. 

I made more progress on the deck furniture today. I built both the capstan and skylight. The skylight in the kit consisted of a square base, a 6 sided plain base and a flat metal piece with the skylights imprinted on them. I did not like this. So after shaping the base to be equal sided,  I used the rotary tool to inset the panels around the base. Then I carved the six sided top and used the rotary tool to inset where the glass would be. These I painted black.
 
The capstan had nothing in the plans other than a drawing with no dimensions. I pulled the Constitution plans for the capstan and used them to assist in shaping the 8 insets. The kit only supplied the spindle with the domed top and bottom. Since the real capstan has a brass top, I decided to paint mine black along with the lower band. Then the middle I stained. 
 
I completed the deck assembles around all the hatches and installed the stairs and platform for the capstan. Then I glued everything up. I have not yet installed the Main and Mizzen fife rails, the ships wheel and skylight (small square one), and the various cannonball holders. These should all be completed tomorrow, I hope. 
 
I also stained all of the blocks. After consulting the forum, I tried a number of different methods. First I tried to put the stain on a paper towel and roll the blocks in it. This was not satisfactory since it did not get the stain into the grooves. I tried dipping the blocks in the stain, then wiping them off on a towel. This worked but only for the larger blocks. The small ones would take forever to do this way and I would probably end up dropping one or more in the stain or on the floor. Finally for the small blocks, I put them all into a large spoon. Then used a dropper to add the stain. This allowed me to move the blocks around until they were all coated well. Then I raked them onto a paper towel and rubbed the excess stain off. No clean way of doing this but it is wall done.
 
Finally, I airbrushed a second coat of black onto all the cannon barrels. I also painted the carriages of the 24 pound bow chasers red. I planted the wheels black and glued them onto the carriages. Tomorrow, I will clean up the glue and sand the stairs and capstan where needed.
 
The skylight is placed but not glued in the photo. I will glue it up once I work my way back to the aft deck. One of the shots below shows a test placement of the forward cannons.
 
Overall, the ship was better tonight than it was this morning. A successful day. 
 
Bill
 
 

I added a bit of black wash to the Eagle boards this morning. I believe it adds a bit of depth to the carvings. These are metal fittings from Mamoli. In addition, I completed the main hatch today. This was more complicated than it seemed initially. Given the deck camber and the many part to be cut and fitted, it took longer but I am pleased with the results. I modified the plans for the forward ladders. I ran them fore to aft rather than side to side. This is in line with the AOS. I led the midships side to side since the deck had a large opening already cut in it to allow for that. I also decided to paint the lower decks around the stairs the bulwark green. Since these really do not show and are left un-planked, this keeps them from looking unfinished and highlights the lighter stairs which are the feature that is important. I also painted the deck black under the forward small hatch since the deckle would have shown through the grates since these were basically right on top of the deck. I still have to mount the ships boat cradles but will do this a bit later.
 
Again, I think the ship is in better shape than it was when I started this morning so today was a success.
Bill

Hull Paint Prep
Since I was painting the hull, I used spackle to smooth the hull and sanded using 220 grit. Once satisfied, I masked the hull at the waterline. Since the waterline was established when I put the faux copper plates on the hull, this was easy. I used standard masking tape at the waterline, then the blue tape to cover the rest of the hull.
 
 
I used a light pecan to stain the spar deck and left it to cure overnight.
 
Copper Bottom
Since this model uses a faux copper bottom I had to buy copper and green paint since these were not part of the Model Shipyards paint set for the Constitution. I took a green tile with me to the model store to match the color.
 
The instructions called for painting the hull below the waterline with copper paint. I airbrushed the copper on and once this dried, sanded it lightly to remove the paint in some areas to expose the wood and green paint below the copper. I used a microfiber cloth slightly dampened with Mineral Spirits to wipe the hull down. Then I airbrushed the green paint onto the hull and immediately used a soft cotton cloth to rub the green into the hull. I did this in overlapping sections since the paint needed to be wet when I rubbed it. This turned out great.
 
I removed the masking tape when the paint was dry then left it overnight to cure. I masked the hull below the waterline, as well as the spar deck and interior bulkheads up to, but not including the handrail.
 
Below is the Faux Copper bottom. The green plates have all been installed and lightly sanded on the hull.
 
From here on I used the model shipyards instructions on painting from their Constitution instructions. Unless otherwise noted, all paint was applied using an airbrush. I used the Model Shipways primer to paint all the exposed surfaces and lightly sanded after the second coat. Then painted the hull black. After the first coat, I cleaned up the base of the gallery where it still was a bit rough. Since I took the primer off the metal in doing this, I used a can of Tamiya primer to spot prime those areas. After a light sanding a applied two more coats of black letting the paint dry between each coat. After two coats I would let the paint cure overnight.
 
After the past paint cured overnight, I removed masked the hull to paint the gun port stripe. I debated priming again in that area but decided against that and chose instead to paint the white directly over the black. My current plans are to have the gun ports closed in the final model so I did not worry about white getting into the port.
 
With the paint curing, I used some time to take the assembled grates and sand them down to 2.5mm. When I assembled the grates I soaked them in water with wood glue. This seemed to set the grates but once I started working on thinning them I found the grates would not hold up. I used thin CA to re-glue the grates then once dried continued to sand them down to the correct thickness.
 
Once it dried 2 hours, I removed the masking tape on the outside of the hull. I did have to correct a bit of white overspray, but that was easy with the airbrush.
 
2/05/14
 
I thinned some white and black paint slightly but not as much as that needed to airbrush, the goal being to allow it to flow from a brush. I used this to paint the scrollwork on the bow with white. I used the black to correct any over brushing. This took a great deal of back and forth since my painting skills are not the best.
 
Once the bow was done, I painted the additional decorative details I added on the stern. This I allowed to dry overnight.
 
2/06/14
I touched up the white and black details all around.
 
I spent a good portion of the day removing the white metal columns, cleaning them up, priming and painting. I learned the hard way that these need to be cut from the casting armature. I broke one. The plans show the three lower stern windows have the two part plate with the cannon hole. I counted the plate pairs and there were just enough for the side cannons. However the book shows Anatomy of a Ship, shows these to be a one piece plate or at least no cannon hole with air ports at the top. There are port covers that are single covers with the ports in the top included in the plan. The plan was incorrect.
 
I also decided to go off plan and paint the Eagle Gold. I just think it looks great that way.
I used the sticky side of a small strip of masking tape to stick the small stars to so they could be primed and painted.
 
I realized after painting the stern nameplate white it needed to be black. Then after it dried I came back to paint the letters with white. Before painting I had to do quite a bit of thinning. I did this on all the white metal pieces. Otherwise they would be very bulky.
 
The windows in the stern are slightly large for the window plates so I thought I would glue the columns to each side of the plates prior to putting them on the stern. This did not work well and I ended up soaking them in acetone to remove the CA, then had to clean all the pieces over and repaint. I found on these pieces it was easier to use a 00 brush and paint them after they were attached to the hull.
 
After these were fitted and painted and the surrounding stern touched up with black, I fitted the Eagle. This required me cutting the lower of the double scrollwork above the Eagle. I looked at the photos and this is actually what seems to be on the real ship. I marked where the scroll needed to be removed and used a wood chisel to remove the portion under the Eagle. Then I painted the area black and let it dry.
 
The plans also called for the three port covers to be white. In reality they are black. I think it makes the columns stand out better. So I painted them black.
 
I fit the rudder to the hull and glued the hinges onto both. Prior to mounting the rudder on the hull I drilled the hole for the rudder chains to affix to the rudder. I dry fit the rudder then started adding the pins to the hinges from the bottom up. These proved challenging to find if they fell onto the floor (which they did several times). The hinges were the first part that I actually did not have enough to complete the assembly in the kit. I used a brass rod to make a 5th one. The ballpeen hammer and mini-anvil worked great to make a head on the pin. I touched up the faux copper bottom and the rudder hinges. Then I glued the rudder into position. After the rudder glue set, I added the chains to the stern. I still need to go back to the bow and touch up/smooth the scrollwork paint.
 
Okay, this gets things caught up. Only 22 years to get to this point!

Bow
 
I used 3x1.5mm walnut strips and 2x1.5 basswood to created beams for the bow construction. I decided to construct beams which were already U shaped so I could make the scroll work stand out. Given the smaller scale of the Mamoli kit I did not feel I could just use paint to smoothly to add the double stripes. By using the 1.5mm strips  I could construct beams  curved to fit the bow as well as straight beams that I could shape with the file for the 5 vertical beams.
 
The first thing I did was take the white metal fiddle plates and shaped them to fit the bow. These required significant thinning before adding to the bow. The plan called for using 9 strips walnut to create the piece that connected the fiddlehead plates to the bow. I did not like this arrangement. The instructions were also very sparse on the shape of these pieces/ Instead I took a small piece of pine and shaped two pieces that would fit the bow leaving just enough room to add walnut planking on the three exposed sides. This also allowed me to extend the top and bottom plates in a similar method as the other scrollwork.
 
The method worked pretty well. I was able to glue the beams to the hull using CA glue and using the bending iron to set up the glue quickly. This also allowed me to add more or less curves as I glued them to the bow. This was critical to make sure the two sides mirrored each other when viewed from the bow.
 
 
Hull
 
The kit only included the strakes outside the hull just below the waist and below the gun ports the full length. I added the strakes above the gunports as well based upon other models as well as a review of the available plans.
 
I liked the look when they were added. Since I was painting the hull, I also could use basswood (I acquired from the local RC Model shop) to make the strakes rather than matching the walnut.
 
On the interior, I added the strakes but choose not to follow the plan and add the 4 fittings, the belying pin racks and the line blocks on the forward bulkhead since they were to be stained. I also added the molding strip where the sides met the deck.
 
Cathead
 
Placement of the forward cathead was very sketchy in the plans. I used tracing paper to sketch the angle of the cathead rom the centerline. Then I estimated the angle needed for the cathead to end up 2mm above the spar deck where it penetrated the deck. There was a shaped piece that was added under each of the catheads the mount it to the deck. The key was it needed to enter just above the coming. I used an adjustable square to catch the angle from the tracing paper. Then place the square along the centerline of the deck and marked the place it crossed the handrail. Once both sides were marked and triple checked, I used a square to mark the side hull from this mark. Then I scribed a line where the cathead needed to be when it penetrated the inner bulkhead. I used the plans to guesstimate the slope and the difference (higher) the cathead would be when it exited the hull. This was the second line I scribed above the first line. This was the bottom of the cathead. Since the cathead is a 4x4mm, the actual entry point was 2mm above the second line.
 
I took a very small drill and chucked it into the power drill. I know that the advice I had received was to not use a power tool, but I am very comfortable with the drill and using it allowed me to easily adjust the holes once they were drilled. Used the two marks as my guide and slowly more the hole through the hull on both sides. I added a small drop of CA to both holes to keep the walnut from splintering. The cathead came through the forward bulkhead and it was very thin. Once the glue was dry, I gradually increased the size of the holes until I could stick toothpicks into both. This allowed me to adjust each to mirror each other as well as being the correct angles.
 
Once I was satisfied with the placement, I continued to increase the drill diameter until the holes were slightly smaller than the 4mm required. Then I took a brand new Xacto blade (the thin pointed one) and used it to carve both the entry and exit holes square and fitted the catheads through the hull.
 
Lastly, I carved the small blocks that were the base of the cathead on the deck.
 
I performed a final review of one cathead then glued it in place with CA. Then I did a final adjustment of the second cathead to mirror the first one. The goal was to get both very close, then exactly match the placement of the second to the first. This would keep any errors from being readily apparent when viewed.
 
The photos below show the final position of the catheads. The bottom one showing the mounts where the catheads mount on the spar deck.
 
 

Hi John
 
If you look on my Xebec log, you will see how I done my grating. 
 
Kind Regards
 
 mij

Been working since 4:30 am on aft section where the grating should go. I have before pictures and after pictures. I am thinking the after will be a final conclusion with the exception of planking the stern sides in. I am not going to cut or drill hills into this piece because thus far it has looked sloppy. Any suggestions and or comment would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !!
 
John E

Following are 2 photos of what I was attempting to do with the grating aft...I am not pleased and feel my craftsmanship is little to be desired. I wanted some critique to see a better approach.
 
But first, let me say before I even started on this aft section I remembered I have a good size stack of 1/16" Birch wood that is just sitting on a shelf. So I began to think of replacing the 1x4x.5 planks with a cutout of the area with the Birch. I was successful at cutting a piece that slipped right into the exterior framing quite nicely. All I have to do is drill holes at 5/64" to show where the water would drain to keep vessel from pitch-poling upon being hit by a rogue wave.
 
My problem with this approach seems to be just how much of a realistic look I need to achieve. I am looking for a clean look which will look better than the kit part. I figure this is a good approach but was wondering if anyone had any ideas.
 
I am looking online to research the grating for the Xebec and potentially discover a better way.
 
(Actually, I am ashamed of the 2 photos I will show but some of you folks with more experience may be able to help.)
 
These instructions in the Amati kit (to me anyway), are difficult to understand. I also feel this is an opportunity to advance a scratch built section of the vessel but really need to see real time photos of the actual build from someone else.
 
Thanks for allowing me to ramble on. It is 4:30 AM where I am and I am half asleep.
 
 

Hey, guess you're right about the toggles Keith! Thanks for showing me.
 
Here's a small update. I fixed the mast rigging (don't know the correct terms ) to the mast with some tape, now it was time to fix it permanently. I'd better have done this first, because some of the rigging is already fixed. Now I had to make sure I remained enough tension. Also, I used a too much glue and I made the mistake to squeeze the lasings so the ropes are a little flattend now :mellow:
Nevertheless I'm quite content. Two more masts to go.


This needs a liiiittle more trimming.
 
This time I used a proper camera instead of my phone....

John that looks much tidier than the picture above.. just a tip... i would advise in investing in some very sharp craft blades for intricate cut out jobs.. really sharp is the key... i use a 9mm stanely knife and snap and change blades often.. looking good even though i know nothing of this ship.. Ollie

So sorry folks I have been delayed and away for some time since my last post....had 3 surgeries in one year.....I am back on the Xebec though...I would be very interested in Le Requin's plans for a scratch build myself. Never have tried one but definitely wish to give her a go....here are some of the latest pics.

Following are 2 photos of what I was attempting to do with the grating aft...I am not pleased and feel my craftsmanship is little to be desired. I wanted some critique to see a better approach.
 
But first, let me say before I even started on this aft section I remembered I have a good size stack of 1/16" Birch wood that is just sitting on a shelf. So I began to think of replacing the 1x4x.5 planks with a cutout of the area with the Birch. I was successful at cutting a piece that slipped right into the exterior framing quite nicely. All I have to do is drill holes at 5/64" to show where the water would drain to keep vessel from pitch-poling upon being hit by a rogue wave.
 
My problem with this approach seems to be just how much of a realistic look I need to achieve. I am looking for a clean look which will look better than the kit part. I figure this is a good approach but was wondering if anyone had any ideas.
 
I am looking online to research the grating for the Xebec and potentially discover a better way.
 
(Actually, I am ashamed of the 2 photos I will show but some of you folks with more experience may be able to help.)
 
These instructions in the Amati kit (to me anyway), are difficult to understand. I also feel this is an opportunity to advance a scratch built section of the vessel but really need to see real time photos of the actual build from someone else.
 
Thanks for allowing me to ramble on. It is 4:30 AM where I am and I am half asleep.
 
 

Following are 2 photos of what I was attempting to do with the grating aft...I am not pleased and feel my craftsmanship is little to be desired. I wanted some critique to see a better approach.
 
But first, let me say before I even started on this aft section I remembered I have a good size stack of 1/16" Birch wood that is just sitting on a shelf. So I began to think of replacing the 1x4x.5 planks with a cutout of the area with the Birch. I was successful at cutting a piece that slipped right into the exterior framing quite nicely. All I have to do is drill holes at 5/64" to show where the water would drain to keep vessel from pitch-poling upon being hit by a rogue wave.
 
My problem with this approach seems to be just how much of a realistic look I need to achieve. I am looking for a clean look which will look better than the kit part. I figure this is a good approach but was wondering if anyone had any ideas.
 
I am looking online to research the grating for the Xebec and potentially discover a better way.
 
(Actually, I am ashamed of the 2 photos I will show but some of you folks with more experience may be able to help.)
 
These instructions in the Amati kit (to me anyway), are difficult to understand. I also feel this is an opportunity to advance a scratch built section of the vessel but really need to see real time photos of the actual build from someone else.
 
Thanks for allowing me to ramble on. It is 4:30 AM where I am and I am half asleep.
 
 

Ollie,
 
Your work is so clean!! Time is of the essence, eh, I need to slow her down and quit putting in long days on the Xebec..Nicely crafted Ollie.

Let me try Ian....Thank you Ian!!! Grateful for your assistance, sir.
 
John

Seems like all I am doing is making too many mistakes folks....is there any rule that says we can make this what we want it to be besides what its supposed to be....anyway, I'll post some pics after putting them on my HD ....thanks for following all.
 
I thought i would add something to this since she is not turning out too well...Mmmmm, just don't know. Constructed a detailed railing around the upper deck (only have one side complete, but not painted), wondered if there were any thoughts...since I am having trouble figuring the bow out.
 
I think I goofed some where....
 
John

Hi guys and gals. I wanted to show my progress on this Bireme Greek Warship the past few days.
 
First, I had to do some painting on the topside merely to show a progressive schedule I hold myself accountable for. I need to see a progressive advancement to feel as if I am actually accomplishing something. Not sure why, but that’s how I work.
 
Secondly, I have caught some mistakes; i.e. using too much glue (so instead of the glue applicator I now use a paintbrush), slow but it looks better; I don’t know how I did this but my calculations for the bow was like way off. Don’t know what I was thinking…
 
So for the bow I have had to cut away some planking and replace @ the CL of the bulkhead, where now I do not have 1 continuous piece of planking all the way through the hull from stem to stern in some areas as shown in the pictures.
 
I am learning though. Actually, I have discovered with a mixture of water & wood filler at very thin doses works well on the inside of the hull as a filling agent to cover minor and small defects. Not sure if that is actually legal or not but I did not want this baby to go to the scrap pile just yet.
 
I then sand the hull down with 400# sand paper (again, hope that’s OK), then with a #0000 steel wool to give it a flat shine and reduce any grit caused by the wood filling agent I created.
 
Once complete with the hull’s bow I will do minor aesthetics throughout the hull and then…tackle the beast, the stern, or prow…wish me luck…
 
BTW, the instructions on this thing are quite minimal…a good kit for the most part, but one must know some woodworking skills as well as a small bit of Marine Engineering, but truly, nothing major. I just like to sound as if I know what I am talking about…(DOH?!).
 
See ya’ll next time! Have a great night! I am learning folks.
 
John E (Auvergne).