UdoK

Hi all,
the last half Frames are roughly shaped and dry fitted to the hull structure.
 
Next is to adjust and glue them before moving on to the transom parts.
 
I wish a happy Easter weekend to all of you!
 
 

Thank you guys for your nice commends and the Likes.
 
@Klimi
No Pavel, I will close the hull with full planking and coppering, I'am thinking about exposing the lower deck through the upper deck planking.
 
 
While shaping the hawse pieces I have started to draw the modifications on the rear Frames.
First I have transfered the bearding line, calculated from the AotS book to the Master Frame plan and each Frame drawing plus the Position of the whale.
Next I will just reduce the outside shape of the Frames by the plank thickness steady beginning at the bottom of the whale to the bearding line. 
 
 

Hi all,
 
the keel has been glued to the structure and the stem half Frames are installed.
 
Before I move on to the modification of the Stern and Transom Frames I will prepare the Hawse pieces.
 
 
 

Thanks for the Likes!
 
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi all,
after a break due to several different reason the new Stem and head of the knee from pear is ready.
 
To simulate the caulking I did some Research on different sorts of black paper.
Finally I ended up with the black paper supplied in the Caldercraft kit of my Endeavour. I find it the best result for the strenght of the Joints and thickness.
The paper is 0.18mm thick, converted to real size it makes a caulking of 9mm (11/32") between the Joints what I think is very realistic.
 

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

I have spend some spare time on the Bounty,
 
All the Frames are installed now, followed by the Transom wing.
I think it will be better to start fairing the hull before moving on to the transom parts to prevent damage as the parts are very fragile.
So, next is to copy the Body lines from the planes and prepare some templates for the sanding party.
 
 
 
 

Hi all,
the last half Frames are roughly shaped and dry fitted to the hull structure.
 
Next is to adjust and glue them before moving on to the transom parts.
 
I wish a happy Easter weekend to all of you!
 
 

Thanks for the Likes!
 
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

I'am pretty busy today!
 
First two of the whole Frames are up, dry fitted to the building board.
 

Finally,  Here it IS !!!
 
After long weeks of waiting I just picked it up from customs Office this morning.
 
12 Pounds of finest timber like cherry, swiss pear, silver maple, boxwood and walnut, perfectly packed and well  wrapped with plastic foil.

Hi all,
after a break due to several different reason the new Stem and head of the knee from pear is ready.
 
To simulate the caulking I did some Research on different sorts of black paper.
Finally I ended up with the black paper supplied in the Caldercraft kit of my Endeavour. I find it the best result for the strenght of the Joints and thickness.
The paper is 0.18mm thick, converted to real size it makes a caulking of 9mm (11/32") between the Joints what I think is very realistic.
 

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

A bit of progress around the rear end. I have now added arches, pillars and sills around all the lights.
 
I will soon be re-attaching the thinned, rear casting. Before doing so I am trying to decide whether to paint it as per John's version above or whether to 'guild' it. Will the guilded version be more in keeping with the natural wood effect of the rest of the ship? I am not sure. Below is a photo with the casting held temporarily in place with clothes pegs. Any views on this point?
 

 
Also I think the galleries should have been mounted about 2mm lower to make the lights line up better. Something else for others to look out for.  
 
The arches and pillars also unfortunately highlight the higgledy-piggle nature of the glazing bars on early Corel plastic casting.

Guys, Thank you very much for the kind words and suggestions. I think I am swaying towards the "boxwood" effect for the castings. I will have to get my paint shop organised.
 
Gianni, I would have liked to put a name below the lights on the stern. The problem I felt about blanking out the lowest row of panes was that the lights would then be too high with the tops above the quarter deck line. I spent a fair bit of time debating this point before I started!
 
Well I have been doing a bit of milling to produce a spectacle plate for the rudder. I clamped a suitable piece of brass to the mill table. First I milled its thickness down to 2mm. This is probably too thick but the Corel hinge parts are quite wide (there are only 3 sets) so I felt this thickness would be consistent.
 
Next up was to run the milling bit across the end to make it square, then drilled two 0.8mm holes 6mm apart across the piece. Then with a 5mm milling bit lined up with the mid point of the two holes I cut out the central slot. The rest was shaped using a 1.5mm mill bit including squaring up the central slot. Also the eyes were thinned down. The result is in the first image.
 

 
The brass was turned over and the eyes were thinned from the other side. The spectacle plate was then parted off giving 7mm long legs. Each leg had a pair 0.8mm holes drilled in them. The shape was then improved by hand filing.
 

 
Next was a test fitting to the rudder.
 

 
Before fixing this in place I will make some chain with 1mm links (BE has some useful info in this area in his Pegasus log page 56 entry 834 (link) . I am also contemplating a rudder coat. Hum.
 
 

Thanks Druxey, the pins seemed like a good idea at the time instead of using tape to keep them in place.
 
More work was done to the bollard timbers, the 3/4" air space was marked and the waste chiseled out and then refined with sanding sticks.
Also the knightheads were carved in using a small chisel point exacto blade and some needle files. Next step will be to reattach them temporally to mark the bowsprit curves to be sanded into them and mark for and make the bowsprit chock.
Going to be working away for pretty much 2 weeks so progress will come to a halt.
 
Ben

Thanks Pete and all the likes.
Also started rough fairing of the aft internal framing. Pics are before and after.
 
Ben

So here are my framing squares completed, I decided to add pins to the back so I can secure it in position to the build board without fear of losing it's place, now they can be repositioned back in the exact same place.
I then held them up to the plan and marked the horizontal lines of the breadth lines, then they were fitted back to board and the vertical line of the breadth line was marked up to intersect with the horizontal lines, this gives me a perfect crosshair target of where the frame should be.
 
Ben

I finished the fore and main top rails today, just need to complete the mizzen top then I can paint/varnish the masts and put on the woolding rope

Hi Slog, the two end loops are lashed together, I used fairly thick cotton.

Hi Mike
I made the anchor myself out of brass, I need two bower anchors and have since found that Caldercraft have them at the right size so I bought the second one. I won't be using the stock supplied with the Caldercraft one though, its totally wrong. Here's some pics of the first one unpainted, and compared to the ones supplied with the partwork.
Cheers
Steve