UdoK

Hi all,
finally I got the Backbone done.
At the first attempt of making new stem parts  I did a mistake on cutting the Joints due to be in a rush. No good, I couldn't use the parts anymore.
I had to order some cherry wood to start the second try, that worked well.
 
Here is the result with Joints and false keel as per the Aots drawings.
 

Wow!  Crackers thank you for the flowers.   Thank you all for the compliments and tips.  
 
Popeye I am not quite sure what the cabin bulkhead means (I even looked it up in our definition MS word document).  Does it mean where I have the cabin on top of the aft (I think that is the right term)?  The castle? deck partially covers the the bottom deck.  I hope I said that right.  There are so many terms I still need to learn.
 
Aha, I am guessing you have to have a perfect fit to be able to use the thin glue.  Am I right on that one?  The glue I am using gives me the ability to glue things that are not perfectly flush with each other.  Fluid, but fills gaps.
 
It would really be awesome to be in a contest, but I don't know if I will ever reach that point.  Of course, you never know.   I think I am catching onto what putty is.  Is it like the way they use putty on cars?
 
Here is where I am with my ship.  I am having so much fun doing this ship!
 
 
 

Kimberley,
to hold pieces together you can use masking tape like the Tamiya tape available in different width.

I got the hull painted today.  I really do like the acrylic paint.  I think I did a pretty good job.  I need to do a few touch ups, but otherwise I think it looks pretty good.  I am feeling more comfortable with the paint now.  It is not as intimidating as I thought it would be.
 

Hello Kimberley
although I never did a plastic ship kit by myself I wish you all the best for your build and will follow.
 
In the Background of your Picture I can see you have a bunch of Vallejo model Colors. I used to work with them on my RC boats for weathering,always very happy with the result.

Hello Elmir,
a neat build of a nice ship!
 
Happy birthday to you!

The next view is from the fore deck looking back across the opened up waist area. The area under the quarter deck is now very visible. However, once the chain pumps, main mast, gallows and steps are in place the view will be more restricted.
 
If I had put the companion way behind the capstan (as in the Lymm) then it would have been worth modeling the lower part of the capstan which would then have been on view.
 
One of the out of scale beams is on view, but this should be masked later by a scale beam which will go across the fore edge of the quarter deck.
 

 
Finally a view from the quarter deck looking forward with the stove's flue pocking up through the fore deck.
 

 
Time to settle down to some planking inside the bulwarks. Now that is going to be fiddly.

Hello Patrick,
 
May I suggest you upload these pictures of your Bounty in the 'Gallery of COMPLETED Scratch-built models'.
 
It is very helpfull to post pictures, but it is a bit too much to put 15 pictures of your own build within Edward's log.
It might also be very confusing to other members who are following this topic.
Just post one or two pictures and refer to the others in the gallery.
 
Thank you for understandig and cooperation.
 
Regards,
Anja

Hello Vince,
I have never seen a euromodel kit in real, but from what I have seen in other european model Forums the plans and Quality of their kits are not bad.
A preview of their Royal William plans are displayed on the Website.
 
http://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-1.html#axzz2i8ee7IPE

No worries Sam, I assumed it was a mix up  .  Thanks for the info on the wire.
 
 
As mentioned up above I decided to do the pumps but after seeing Mikes scratch pumps and then checking Steve’s and Greg's who also scratched the pumps I set them aside until I decide what to do.
 
 
The photo shows the cast white metal components which are quite chunky.  The castings themselves were of decent quality needing only a touch up with a file to clean off some casting seams.  The other parts needed are 4mm dowel and 0.7mm brass rod. Hmmmmm decisions decisions…

 
 
While I procrastinated about the pumps I decided to move to the bow, since the rear deck is hung up on the pumps, the mid deck is hung up on the ships boats and cannon, I am running out of areas to work on LOL.
 
First up is the fish davits.  Caldercraft supply 2 davit pads and 2 shackles but only 1 fish davit.  Not sure if the real ship had only one davit that they humphed from side to side?  Any way the davit pads are 1.5mm walnut ply which after cutting free from the sheet I sanded a slight round on the top edge as per the AOTS and stuck down with CA.
 
The davit shackles are photo etch brass.  The plans don’t mention how they are secured to the deck but the AOTS shows them attached to an eyebolt so used the supplied copper ones.  The shackle needed the hole enlarged slightly with a drill to accept the eyebolt and after opening the eyebolt slightly to accept the shackle it was squeezed closed again and the parts chemically blackened.

 
 
The fish davit pads and shackles in place.  I haven’t done the davit yet as it has an open sheave so need to come up a sheave to fill the slot.

 
 
The bumpkins were up next.  Away back when I was doing the bulwarks and before the top rail was down, I marked the position of the bumpkins and cut slots into the bulwarks ready for this day.  There was a fair bit of discussion in MSW about the position of the bumpkins and how they should be placed over the rail, or even if the Endeavour had bumpkins, but this is how the kit shows them so happy to go along with this set-up.
 
Once the 2 halves of the walnut ply bumpkins were glued together and a final sand to clean them up they slid through the previous made slot into the solid walnut brackets which were CA glued to the deck.

 
 
The cat-heads next.  I was swithering whether to cut full slots and make up and insert proper sheaves but again a lack of suitable material at hand decided for me so made false sheaves by drilling 1mm holes right through the cat-head and after scribing lines joining the holes the material was picked out with the craft knife.

 
 
A couple of photos of todays work.  I notice most people paint the cat heads black but decided to varnish first so that the securing bolts and ringbolts on the side  (this is not mentioned in the plans but is in the AOTS) stand out more.  I still have the thumb cleats on the sides to do (again not in the plans but is in the AOTS) as I was almost finished them when “one little trim needed to finish" caused one to break apart.
 
I may go back and paint them black but will see.


 
Cheers
Slog

Hi all,
most of the sawing Job is done, the whole Frames are cut out now.
Next is to sand them to final shape, I will leave a few 1/10mm on for fairing after construction of the hull has been completed.

The time had come to blacken the stove. I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black. I had a tiny jam jar (the sort you get at breakfast in decent hotels) which was big enough to slip the stove in. I topped up the jar with sufficient neat Brass Black to cover the stove and let it have a bath for 60 seconds with the occasional gentle agitate. Then I washed it in running water.
 
The following day I gave it a gentle burnish.
 
Now those of you (like me) who follow EdT's work will know that he is not a fan of brass blackened with selenious solution because raised detail and edges if rubbed create bright spots where the blackening rubs off. 
 
See, for example, page 22 entry no 318 of tlavine's HMS Atalanta log <link>. Ed describes his preferred use of copper which "....can then be blackened with no effect on surrounding wood using liver of sulfur solution. LOS does not work on brass."
 
Anyone who has worked on a model of locomotives know that there tend to be large areas of the undercarriage which are painted black. On models large areas of black tend to camouflage detail. The usual antidote is to dry brush the edges of the detail with a small amount of grey paint which if done carefully will represent the light glinting on the edges and points of the detail of the full sized item.
 
Now in this case, rather than drybrush the detail, I decided to change the vice identified by EdT in to a virtue - I deliberately polished the edges of the detail. So hopefully when the stove is in the gloom of the Unicorn gun deck its detail will gently glimmer.
 
Anywhere that I overdid the polishing I used a small brush to apply a drop of neat Brass Black to the exposed metal for 30 to 60 seconds then washed it off to reblacken that part (avoiding covering already blackened parts).
 
Inside the hearth there were visible joints where I was not able to clean the solder off completely so this rather showed up after blackening. The solder I covered with Humbrol No33 matt black paint which blends in with the blackening well.
 
At this point I added the spit drive made from 0.1mm wire. I got this wire by stripping the insulation off some instrument wire which produces several strands. 5 amp fuse wire is another source. I am afraid I cheated here - I used superglue to fix it. 
 
I made the riding bits that enclose the stove from 5mm square walnut and fixed these to the stove base. I debated whether these should be more elaborately carved but the ones on contemporary models seemed to be plain.
 

 

 
The base will need a bit of fettling to make it sit properly on the camber of the deck - so the stove will be fixed after that is done. Until then I will have to put the stove somewhere safe because next I will attack the waist.
 
The last photo is the stove sat on the Unicorn deck immediately above its final location.
 
        

Hi all,
most of the sawing Job is done, the whole Frames are cut out now.
Next is to sand them to final shape, I will leave a few 1/10mm on for fairing after construction of the hull has been completed.

Thank you very much Anja!
 
I had a quiet public Holiday day yesterday (the Holiday is not because of my birthday ).
I even could manage to laminate some more Frame Patterns and prepare the building board.

Thank you redbeard!
 
Back on my workbench after being away for work all week.
Here are some details of making frame patterns as requested by Anja.
 
- cutting the woodstrips into required lenght and angle to fit the drawings. The strips supplied in my kit are lightly wider than 1", but it is no Problem as it gives a bit more room for inaccurate cutting of the strips.
 
- glueing the pieces of the Patterns (two halves for each Frame) together by using CA on a glass sheet placed on the drawing.
 
- sand the Joints smooth and laminate the halves together by using wood glue. I place the Pattern on my workbench and clamp it with a flat wood piece on top (front of a old cabinet drawer) until dried.
 
The Patterns than are ready for the thickness sander as the strips vary in thickness lightly as well..

After making sawdust all afternoon the first Patterns are  glued and laminated together.
for the single pieces I have used CA, laminating together with PVA Wood glue.
 
41 Patterns more to go !!
 

Aye Aye Sir, here we go!
 
First pieces for the Frame Patterns have been cut.
I already felt in love with the smell of the cherry timber when cutting.

Finally,  Here it IS !!!
 
After long weeks of waiting I just picked it up from customs Office this morning.
 
12 Pounds of finest timber like cherry, swiss pear, silver maple, boxwood and walnut, perfectly packed and well  wrapped with plastic foil.

I wasn't happy with the capsquares on the cannon so I modified them to look more correct.

If I see it correctly, your are using a scrollsaw in the last picture?
If so, are these some sort of guide brackets (if that is the correct name)
Anja
 
My scroll saw is a 230DS/E out of box.
The bracket you see got a small roller in the front to guide the saw plate and is height adjustable to hold the material on the table.

Yesterday I have been informed by Lumberyard that it takes at least another two weeks to get my timber set on the road.
As I have decided to wait on the Hahn plans to continue with the ship boat I give a shot on the four 4 Pounder cannons.
I have started to shape a pearwood block to the outside dimension in oerder to receive the carriage brackets.
On the milling machine first thing was the axle receptions followed by the final shaping.
Cutting to the required thickness worked very well on the table saw. So far I'am pretty happy with the result (except for the quality of the photos). Well,I guess there is some room for improvement.

Hi Hamilton, no problem. Here she is:
 

 

i am just wondering were he is going to attach all the rigging

Hello Mick,
I'am very excited to watch how you want to make the guitar swim???

Thank you Mark and Anja for stopping by.
 
It is my Intention to show Details of the build as I'am always happy by myself to see details of other fellow modelbuilders.
 
So I will try to do my very best, if not please feel free to ask questions!