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Glenn-UK

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  1. I am also very tempted by the Syren's 3D-printed blocks, especially the deadeyes. I might order as set of deadeyes for my next build.
  2. Work is progressing nicely on adding the braces for all the various yards. I have run in the brace rigging for all yards on the left hand side. Once I have run in the right hand right hand side rigging the braces can be tensioned and belayed. In the following set of photos I have shown where all the rigging has been run. There is some fuzz on rigging lines which is not visible to the naked eye. As the end of this project nears I am thinking about which model to build next (as I wait in the wings for Jim to complete the prototype build for the Surprise). I am currently considering either the The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian or HMS Speedy. I have previously partly built HMS Speedy but had to ditch the project partway through the build. I would like to build the HM Brig Sloop Flirt - Master Shipwright Edition but as this kit is currently out of stock so that is not currently an option. Main Yard Braces Main topsail yard braces Main topgallant yard braces Fore Lower yard braces Fore Topsail braces Fore topgallant braces Spritsail yard braces
  3. I have now completed the clews, tacks and sheet rigging. The following set of photos are related to the work related to the lower yards on the main and fore masts. My first attempt at seizing the double blocks failed when tension was applied. thankfully all was good second time around. Belaying the rigging was not to bad to do. I have already started work and rigging the braces, and once that is done the final rigging task will be the bowlines. I would expect to complete the model later his month. The final photo shows the current rigging status.
  4. I have made a start on adding the clews, tacks and sheet rigging. The first task was to add pin to the end of a length of thread. The pin is a small length of thread which has been stiffened with ca glue. This is shown in the photo below. The pinned thread is to be passed through a loop. I created the loop in a second length of thread, as shown below. With the pined thread in place the loop is closed up and the excess thread trimmed, as shown in the next photo. In the real world the pin acts a quick release mechanism. The next set of photos shows the rigging in place, noting it has not be tensioned or belayed. The red arrows indicate the rigging, The pin release rigging between the topsail and main yard is attached to a single block, and the next photo shows the method I am using to create this. The red arrow shows the pinned thread which has been placed in a loop which will be drawn tight around the pinned thread. The final set of photos shows this rigging in place, and once again this rigging has not been tensioned or belayed.
  5. All the yard lifts have been rigged and belayed fore both the fore and main mast assemblies. For the most part I was able to set the lift tension so each yard was set at 90 degrees with the mast when belayed. The main yard lifts is shown in the photo below. The next two photo's shows the current build status. The lift rigging is difficult to see as the natural thread is not really visible when set against the white background. Clews, tacks and sheet rigging will be my next task which will take a few days to complete.
  6. I have managed to sort out the issue with the damaged cleat and the vangs have now been belayed. The main and driver booms rigging can be seen in the next two photos. I have now started to rig the lifts for the fore yard fore topsail yard and fore topgallant yard. The next set of photos shows the fore yard lift rigging. The rigging will be belayed to pins on the inner bulwark pin rack which will be entertaining when setting the tension so the yard is set level. The next set of photos shows the fore topsail yard lifts. The rigging will be belayed to pins on the inner bulwark pin rack, next to the foreyard lift belaying pin. The arrow in the first photo shows a block which has separated from the seizing. The arrows in the third photo shows the lift rigging. The final photo shows the fore topgallant yard lift. The rigging will be belayed to cleats located on the back of the topsail shroud rigging.
  7. Today I have been installing the driver boom. The first photo below shows the WIP when adding the parral beads. The next photo shows the inter-block rigging for the driver boom tye. The next section of the rigging has been added as shown on the next photo. I am using pliers to add tension to the vangs, whilst the rigging is belayed. The next photo shows a double block reeved. The inter-block rigging for the two vangs have been added, as shown below. I am having a problem belaying the vang rigging as the cleats are located very close to the side cabins making it very difficult to tie off. I have also hit a snag as can be seen in the photo below as one cleat has seared off. I am not sure what I am going to so at the moment. Grandkid duties tomorrow so I have a couple of days to consider my options.
  8. Today the Main Boom was installed. The first task was to secure the boom to the main mast with parral beads. Next a length of thread was added to the end of the boom, as can be seen in the next photo. This thread was then reeved through a block secured to the back of the main mast, as shown below. The end of the boom was then belayed using a double block arrangement, as shown below. Finally the thread that had been reeved through the main mast block was belayed to the deck via a double block arrangement, as shown below. Finally a photo of the completed installation. Next up will be the installation of the driver boom. Once that is done I will move on to rigging all the yard lifts, clews, sheets and tacks. Once they have been rigged the final task will be to rig all the yard braces and bowlines.
  9. The main and foremast topsail and top gallant yards have now been added complete with tyes and lifts rigged. Here is a picture of the current state of the build. Now a picture showing the fore topsail yard with the parral beads in place. The parrel beads around the fore topgallant yard is shown in the next picture. Next is a photo of the topsail yard lfts which are now fully rigged and belayed. The final two photos show the lifts for the main topgallant yard, noting I have not belayed which will be via a double block arrangement, with the lower block hooked to an eyebolt on the lower platform.
  10. Shiver Me Timbers Todays task was to build a swashbuckling pirate ship ready for a battle on the seas. The kit came with 29 pieces and is suitable for 3+ although the kit did say "Adult Assembly Required". As with most of the kits I build I did have to strip it down and start again as I did miss adding a vital part. I did have have a willing helper and after 40 minutes of hard work the kit was completed.
  11. This post details the method I have used to rig the topsail sail tyes. As can be seen in the first two photos below the rigging is fed through a double block on the topsail yard and is the reeved through a single block located on the topsail platform. The rigging is then belayed to the deck via two 5mm single blocks. Starting with the upper 5mm single block the tye thread is held in place as the block seizing is added as shown by the red arrow in the photo below. The lower thread is then added, held in place with a reef knot. The lower thread is then held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, The block is then reversed so the seizing can be added to the upper tye thread. The completed upper 5mm block is shown in the next photo. These threads are then reeved through the 3mm single block and the 4mm double block, the 4mm block is shown in the photo below. A length of thread is then seized around the lower 5mm single block. An eyebolt is then added to the thread, using a template to set the distance between the eyebolt and single block. The next set of photos shows the completed rigging.
  12. Well done on completing a fantastic looking model, one you can be really proud of. 👏👏👏
  13. I spent a bit of time yesterday belying the rigging that had been run in, some of which can be seen in the first three first photos below. With the jibboom and flying jibboom added their respective shroud rigging were next to be added. I opted to use hooks to secure these blocks to the bow for ease of installation, as can be seen in the two photo below, noting the plan sheet shows these blocks should be seized directly to the eyebolts. The free ends of the inter-block rigging will be belayed to pins located on the bow inner bulwark belay pin racks. The shrouds are also feed through eyelets located on the spritsail yard before being secured to the ends of the jibboom and flying jibboom.
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