Glenn-UK

Work has stalled on the Harpy build as I am pondering the distance to set between the channel and shroud deadeyes. On my initial research it would seem the lanyard spacing between the deadeyes should be 5 times the diameter of the deadeyes, noting 4 times is also used and 3 times infrequently, this equates to 25mm, 20mm and 15mm respectively for 5mm deadeyes. On this basis I decided to set the lanyard spacing to 20mm (4 x 5mm deadeyes) on the foremast. To my eye this spacing looks very large. Looking at photos of the HMS Trincomalee and HMS Victory the lanyard spacing seems quite small. When looking at the rigging plans provided with the kit the measurements seem to be 20mm from bottom of channel deadeye to the top of the shroud deadeye and the lanyard spacing, as measured from top of channel deadeye to the bottom of the shroud deadeye, is approx 8mm. The lanyard spacing, as measured from top of channel deadeye to the bottom of the shroud deadeye, on the main mast shrouds is much more appealing to my eye but still a bit more than those shown on the rigging plans at about 13mm The foremast lanyard spacing will need to be reduced. I am currently undecided if I should reduce the overall lanyard spacing to approx 8-10mm which means I will have to redo all the shroud deadeyes. I have much to ponder over the next few days whilst my wife and I travel to Bramhall for a few days to help look after a couple of our grandkids. My current thinking is that I should remove all the shroud deadeyes so I can reset to the lanyard distance to approx 10mm, as measured from top of channel deadeye to the bottom of the shroud deadeye.

Following on from my last post this is the method I am using to add deadeyes to the shroud lines. It may not work for you, but for me it is a method which produces the most consistent, yet not perfect, results. The best item I bought for model making, especially for the rigging phase is the quad hands. I form a loop in the shroud line and then using the quad hands it can be held in place, as shown below. Next I add three simple cross over knots on the top. In the photo below I am in the process of adding the third crossover knot. The loop can then be closed up by pulling the free end (blue arrow). A deadeye is then placed in the loop, which is pulled tight around the deadeye. After a quick visual check against the other shroud lines a touch of ca glue is added to the seizing and the excess thread cut away. The lanyard is then added as a further check and if necessary the seizing can be removed and redone. The process is repeated until all the deadeyes have been added to the shroud lines. The are not perfectly level but they do tend to follow the slight upward slant of the channel beneath which is to be expected.

Stadler and Waldorf is a great feature in the garden.

Progress has been a bit slow over the last couple of weeks due to the very nice weather. I decided it was time to revamp the garden pond. I ended up digging a new larger hole (7ftL by 4ftW by 1.5ftD) and fitting a new liner. The fish seem happy in their new home and I added a few more small ones, plus a filter and fountain. Moving on the Harpy progress. I decided to follow @ECK lead and to fit and rig the yards to the masts before starting with the shrouds. It was certainly much easier to do at this stage. Next I started to rig the shrouds. I did an initial check that the method for adding the deadeyes would help to ensure they look reasonably level. It appears to work, noting I will need remove the left-hand lanyard as the deadeye needs to be rotated slightly. The method I am using is to place a jig in the channel deadeye. The shroud is passed through a hole and held in place using a clamp. The seizing thread is then passed through the shroud line, as shown in the next photo, using a needle. The jig is then removed from the channel and the shroud and seizing is then pulled back through the hole. The final check is to make sure the seizing thread for the adjacent shrouds looks level. In my next post I will detail how the deadeye is added to the shroud.

The deadeyes and blocks look great and much better quality than the kit supplied items. In particular I am having to sort through the 3mm deadeyes for usable ones as the position of the three holes is very erratic.

Much appreciated Mark

Many thanks Jim

A mixed bag of items in this post detailing what I have been working on over the last few days. I have made all the main and fore mast shroud lines. They have been position on the two masts but they can be removed if required before I a, ready to add the lanyards. I have also made the main and foremast stays and preventor stays, and one pair is shown below. Next I moved on to adding the various blocks and footropes to the main yard. The first task was to seize threads to all the blocks. The yard was then held in position, using my quad hands. In the next photo the central blocks have been added to the yard. The footropes have also been added. Moving outwards the next three blocks were added to the yard. In the next photo all the blocks and footropes have been added. The yard was then then test fitted to the mast. The next job was to add the deadeyes to their respective strops. Next I started to add the chain plates and links. Using the shroud line as a guide I marked the position for the first chain plates and link. The first four chain plates and links have now been added.

Work has been progressing slowly on the Harpy, partly due to a short holiday and partly due to enjoying the mini heatwave. I have completed all the work related to the main and foremast, such as: a) The platforms have been added b) The various PE parts have been added c) The various blocks have been added d) Cleats and iron banding have been added above the platform I have also added the channels to the hull. I am waiting a new supply of blackening solution so the strops and chain plates can be blackened before they are added.

Ditto, I had also noted the belaying of those "hidden" cleats so I have not fitted the ladders

I am now prepared for around 2 to 4 weeks work of adding the various blocks and footropes to all the yards and masts. I have cleaned up the work area and brought out the quad hands and homemade thread dispenser so I am now ready to make a start. Today I concentrated on the topgallant yards for both the main and fore masts. It is a simple task as there are only two blocks and two footropes to add per yard. The one central and two end flying leads will be added later on in the rigging process. I started with the footropes. I cut 4 lengths of black thread and created loops on each end, noting the loops position can be adjusted and closed up as required. The footropes were added to the central section of the yards and the loops closed up. The other ends were then thread over the ends of the yard and the position of the loops seizing was adjusted as necessary and the loops were closed up around the yard. In the next photo I have added the footropes and I am using some clamps to double check overall shaping looks symmetrical. I have also brushed on some very diluted pva glue to the footropes to help maintain the shape once the clamps have been removed. Once that was done I added the blocks. The completed topgallant yards, noting the locating pins will be trimmed. I will not be in the shipyard until early next week as my wife and I are taking a short break away.

Thanks Mark

Work over the last few days has been making the various yards. I used my mini lathe to add the tapers. I used a sanding stick to create the hexagonal mid section of the main and topsail yards (both fore and main). In the photo below I have added all the PE parts. The various blocks and footropes still need to be added. I have added the required camphor to the driver boom jaw. I found fitting the driver boom to the main mast a bit difficult as the mast cheeks hindered the fit of the jaw. I ended up opening the jaws to compensate for the cheeks. The eyebolt has not been glued in place as this will be removed so a 4mm double block can be seized to it. The next photo shows the stun sail boom in place. I have added the hole in the stun sail booms, as can be seen in the photo below. The heptagonal shaping can also be seen in the next photo. After varnishing the masts they were painted black. I am now making a list of the various blocks and deadeyes required for all the yards and masts and I will spend a few days preparing these items ready for installation. For example the main mast will require: 2 x 3mm single blocks with thimbles seized with 500m long threads. 8 x 3mm single blocks 2 x 5mm single blocks 2 x 5mm (inner) & 3mm (outer) single block pairs 2 x 3mm single blocks each on a 42mm flying lead. 2 x footropes

Work still continues with making the various masts and yards. After I had made the bowsprit, spritsail and jibboom I completed the work in this area by making the spritsail yard. All these items will require the various block, deadeyes and footropes adding. I plan to add these items once I have completed making the remaining masts and yards. In the two photos below the spritsail yard has only been pinned in place. Next I moved to to making the topsail and topgallant masts for both the main and foremasts. The Harpy is slowly coming to life, but there is still many more days work required on making all the yards.

Great idea