rybakov

Post One Hundred and Thirty-eight
Poop Deck
I had assembled the Mizen Bitts and Skylight earlier in the build, and they are now added, along with the Poop breast rail.

3531

3535

3539
Note:
Before you fit the Mizen Bitts check the plans; don’t go by the Manual photos, they will lead you astray.
 
Flag Lockers
These have a nicely crafted core of brass etch sections that slot together seamlessly. An outer skin of laser cut Pear complete the units.

3540
I wasn’t overkeen on the engraved boarding on the top so I added a lead sheathing for ‘weather protection’.

3537
At this point the lead hasn’t been weathered, as I did with the Gallery roof.

3538
Not much more to do on the Poop, but I did think about the fittings for an Ensign Staff.
The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them.
 
I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but I think she would have had them.
These items are provided with the Sphinx kit, but a simple Cap-square and step for the staff would be fairly easy to make.
 
Onto the Channels.
 
B.E.
02/02/2024

I have considered Daniel’s chains, T_C.  Unfortunately, I don’t think their length will cover the span that I need to reach the middle band of wales.  It’s okay, though, making my own is a worthwhile learning experience.
 
So far, I’ve made the 5MM, fore and main deadeye strops.  I just completed the 3.5MM backstay deadeye strops.

Below are the rough strops before filing away excess solder.  Above are the cleaned-up strops.  I have adopted a method described by R.C. Anderson, where the join overlaps and is concealed beneath the channels.  I’m reasonably satisfied with these.  Now that I have a new pair of nippers, I will get busy making the other links, although I still need to make 4MM deadeye strops for the mizzen chains.
 
I wanted to do something more familiar and fun, so I’ve started re-locating the trunnions for the main deck battery.  To the left is the stock trunnion location, and you can see that the cascabel overhangs the carriage end to an excessive degree.  To the right, I’ve shifted the barrel forward to where it should be:

This process begins by shaving away the existing trunnions, and making a simple marking gauge to locate the new trunnion position:

I use an awl to make a starting depression for the drill, otherwise the bit will just skate across the rounded surface.  First, I chuck the bit in a pin vise to get a better bite on both locations.  Then, I can chuck the bit in the Dremmel and drill though one side at a time:

A short length of .035 styrene rod is fed through the barrel, and a spot of liquid plastic cement, on the underside of each join, secures it.  On my marking gauge, I inscribed a line indicating the projection of the trunnions from the barrel side.  A pencil mark on the overlong trunnions gives me a reference to nip to.  I clean the ends with a file, and voila:


Corrected trunnions!
 
Ultimately, I will add either paper or foil cap squares to the visible, detailed guns.
 
Thanks for stopping by and looking in at This Old Project!

Hello,
when I read all this, how would it be to train your aim? The pissdales are large enough, that may be two sailers have a match?

Ok, the carpenters where extremely busy today and installed the first beam with the connection to the gangway.



 
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Seven
 
Qtr deck Fittings. (Part six.)
 
All that remains to do is the QD rail, and ladders to the Upper deck.
 The carronades can then be put into place.
 
Quarterdeck Breast rail.

3503
This classically shaped rail for ships of this era is fairly straightforward to fit until the top slotted rail is fitted over the stanchions.

3509
This is a 0.6mm delicate rail thro’ which the Hammock cranes are fitted into the base.
 
I found careful and gentle fettling of both rail and Crane was necessary to ensure that the cranes fitted thro’ without stress and risk of breaking the rail.
I took the precaution of drilling out the fitting holes for an easier fit. The cranes should fit flush with the top.

3507

3515
The Cranes were used to align the capping rail but will be  fitted later. They are notorious snag magnets.

3516

3519

3521

3522

3523
Movin’ aft to the Poop.
 
B.E.
31/01/2024
 

Hello and many thanks for all the likes
The pissdales are now installed. The first pictures show the first one I build, but they where too small. But you could see how I build them. The next where a little larger and you see them installed.

Hello,
Based on Eberhard @welfalck's advice and further consideration, this seems to be the better and probably correct solution for attaching the stirrups.
The reverse arrangement ensures better drainage of rainwater. I have now also found an illustration of this in "Rundhölzer, Tauwerk und Segel"  by K. Schrage.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Six
 
Inboard fittings (Part five.)
Work continues on the Quarterdeck.

3472
Tiller ropes have been added to the ships wheel together with a representation of the sliding feet.
 
The quarterdeck ladderway and associated items are the last centre line fitting to attend to.

3465
Not one of my favourite jobs assembling these delicate parts, but they are nice examples once the job is successfully achieved.

3467

3469
I have taken the opportunity to fine down the tops of the Head ledges where they meet the coamings of the after hatchways, something that has been annoying me for a while.
 
The model has adopted hinged covers to the ladderway, a direct take from the NMM Amazon model.

 
As far as I know the Amazon is the only contemporary model to show this feature, but without this facility working the Upper Capstan would prove very difficult. Otherwise, I suppose temporary Boards could be fitted when the Capstan was in use.
 
The kit offering is a laser engraved Pear item with brass etched hinges.

3470
One of my pet dislikes in ship modelling is bent over eyebolts to represent ring handles. I replaced these with ring bolts.
Another small addition to the covers is a rebate added to one cover for the other to sit on when closed.
 
You will note that the Amazon model has iron stanchions around the ladderway.
The kit doesn’t indicate use of these which is a little odd as all the other ladderways on the gundeck have them.
I added stanchions using the same method as for the Gun-deck.

3477
They are made from ball headed steel pins of 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the eyes to carry the rail bars 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used.
The eyes are silver soldered to the posts using two melt points.

3479
0.5mm ø brass rod is used for the rails.

3488

3492

3495
The covers slot into the ladderway framing but are seemingly unsupported. Were I rigging the model I would add an eyebolt to the headledges to lash the covers  in the vertical position.

3500

3502
The next part should see completion of the Quarterdeck fittings.
 
B.E.
30/01/2024
 

Hello dear colleagues,
I wanted to provide an additional explanation about the braided stirrups.
In various publications I was able to read how the braids were looped and secured around the yards, but I have not yet found a picture of it. According to these descriptions, I implemented it for my model at the main topgallant yard and now quickly made a drawing at Eberhard's @wefalck request.
I think it might have looked like this:

Of course I can't be absolutely sure about this.
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-five
 
Inboard fittings (Part four)
The kit provides two sizes of shot 2mm and 2.5mm ø in shiny black acrylic.
The 2.5mm relates to the 24pounder longs and 42pounder carronades.
The 2mm relates to the 12pounder longs.
 
I didn’t really like the look of the acrylic balls, too black and shiny for my taste.
I replaced them with blackened carbon steel balls of the same diameter.
These were given an acid bath, followed by immersion in Aluminium blackening fluid (I didn’t have any for steel) but it seemed to work.
3400
The more muted colour of the blackened balls tones better with my build.

3415
The simplicity of these assemblies belies the time taken to complete and fit them.
 
The Binnacle
The design follows that as may be seen on Victory or Trincomalee.
Laser cut from Pear; this little assembly is a delight. The mortises and tenons of the parts slot together beautifully.
The unit is complete with brass compass rose and a brass chimney for the lamp or candle.
 
Even so, I couldn’t resist making a couple of tweaks to the design.

3450

3451

3454
Glazing was added using a strip of thin acetate sheet, and the central section on the aft facing side was blanked out.
 
Steering wheel.
I liked the wheel provided on Sphinx and this one is of the same ilk only larger and double.

3429
A fully detailed brass etched wonder that gave me little incentive to consider a wooden replacement.
 
The kit colour scheme of Red painted wheels with white spokes appears regularly on contemporary models.
Deviations include All red, Black with white spokes, and all white schemes.
The latter my be a reflection that Ivory was popular for the creation of ships wheels during the 18th century.
 
I have decided to go with the ‘Red’ scheme with spokes ivory coloured.

3457
The brass etched wheels were assembled and primed with VMS  Metal Prep 4K before painting.

3440

3441
Still pondering whether to add the tiller lines.
 
In practice the centre of the tiller line was nailed to the centre of the barrel with 7 to 9 turns.
Forward end to Starboard and aft end to Port.
By reference to Steel the tiller line for a 64 is of 4” circ which scales close enough to 0.5mm ø line.

3442

3462

3461
Ladderways up next.
 
B.E.
28/01/2024

@druxey
@Bruma
@jdbondy
@shipman
@giampieroricci
Hello friends,
thank you very much for your interest in my build report and for the kind words.
Also many thanks to all of you for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Equipping the main topgallant yard - Vergue de grand perroquet
Once I had clarified the details for the footropes with the stirrups, it was time for the implementation. Thanks to the corresponding preliminary work on a test piece, the stirrups were attached to the yard quickly and without any problems.
Before the eye splices of the footropes could be pulled over the yardarms, the prepared grommets were first put on as chafe protection.


When attaching the footropes in the center of the yard, I used the following example as a guide.

Source: Freiherr v. Sterneck, "Takelung und Ankerkunde", 1873
 
This is what the realization for the model looks like:


I have now also made the mousing to secure the hook for the tye:


The simple buntlines were guided in thimbles at the topgallant yards of the French corvette. These buntlines branched out in the lower area onto two ropes, which were attached to the leeches of the sail. I therefore attached a thimble directly to the tye, as seen on the original Parisian model.


The clewlines for the topgallant sails were normally connected to the clews by means of toggles. Without sails, the clewlines are connected directly to the topgallant sheets.

 
The single-guided lifts, the braces attached directly with eye splices and the aforementioned sheets complete the equipment of the main topgallant yard. These ropes have a diameter of ø 0.25 mm and served eye splices for laying on the yardarms.


The last two pictures give an overview of the main topgallant yard with all equipment elements and ropes.


I will continue with the fore topgallant yard.
 
More about that soon ...

I continue with the decorations:

Post One Hundred and Thirty-four 
 
Inboard fittings (Part three)
Moving back to the Qtr deck. 
I start the procedure by fitting the after-most carronades.

3376

3377
As with the Foc’sle they are pinned thro’ deck.
Slightly more difficult to drill the location holes because of the bulwark tumblehome.
 
I then moved onto the gangboards for the Poop deck access.
These are completed parts, but I had to over-plank them to match the boxwood decking.
Tricky little beggars to fit; the two supporting brackets must be positioned carefully to meet the bulwark whilst avoiding the iron work for the carronades.

3384
The Gangway camber is also critical, I had them on and off several times before I was happy.
I opted to fit the support brackets with the Gangway in place.

3385
It dawned on me during fiddling with these that I had forgotten to consider the position of the Poop deck ladders when cutting away the Qtr deck earlier in the build.🙄
Fortunately for me my fear was short lived as can be seen in the photos.

3387
Shot garlands are not usually seen on Navy Board style models, but they are present on the contemporary Amazon model which has the guns in place.
Incidentally Amazon was part of Pellew’s squadron for some notable engagements.

3379
The Qtr deck bitts are fitted along with the Top-rope scuttles.
I have replaced the kit provided gratings with solid boards.
 

3396

3398

3394

3395
Moving onto the remaining fittings.
 
 
B.E.
25/01/2024
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-three
 Inboard fittings (Part two)
 
The Belfry.
Another resin depiction in the style of that on Victory, nicely made and detailed.

3322
I decided to lead the roof, which was then patinated for effect.
I applied the same principle to the lead sheathing on the Gallery roofs.
The lead foil is only of 0.1mm thickness.

3334
This is a convenient point to fit the Foc’sle breast rails, a quick and easy operation. 
If you happen to lose one of the rail support pillars (106) a reasonable replacement can be made using a spare cavel block which requires only a little tweaking.
Always the way, a part for which there is no spare, pings off into the ether, but you never lose bits that have spares.
 
A pair of Twelve pounders are provided as bow chasers which complete the ordnance for the Fo’csle deck.

3331
These are of the style developed by Chris with integrated cap squares. They look the part when completed but do require the gun to be installed early in the assembly.

3333
I did remove the engraved monograms and replaced them with the Syren version.

1820a
I’m still of two minds whether I prefer the new system to the separate assembly of carriages, where they can be detailed without the gun being in the way.
 
I did purchase a couple of Blomefield 9’ long 12 pounders from Vanguard, which are old school and have detailed etched cap squares which involve more work.
This kit does not include the Quoin as shown below but they are quite easy to make.

1817a
Blackening and fitting the cap squares, particularly the tiny joint bolts and key bolts are testy, so both systems have their drawbacks. 
Both versions make up into nice guns, I am a confirmed fan of resin barrels now.

12 pounder guns
The Vanguard after-market gun kit is slightly smaller than the ‘Indy’ kit gun in terms of barrel length and diameter.
 
The trucks on the after- market gun are a better fit than those of the Indy kit, due to slightly oversize square axles which require rounding.
The ‘Indy’ gun (on the right) has rectangular axles leaving an awkward gap that is difficult to avoid. I think the axle shape need tweaking to a slightly larger square profile which can be rounded for a better fit.

3338

3340
The Foc’sle is now looking quite furnished, and not far from completion.
 
B.E.
 
23/01/2024
 
 
 

 

Continuation: Equipment of the main topgallant yard – Vergue de grand perroquet
The next step was the production of the quarter blocks. In the first picture you can see the quarter blocks with a length of 3.0 mm that have already been provided with strops. At the top left of this picture I show these double blocks compared to a guide block that is used on the deck to redirect the topsail sheets.

Here the assembly of the quarter blocks is nearing completion.

 
Before I started making the footropes for the main topgallant yards, I tried to fundamentally clarify the execution details for the topgallant yards.
In this context, I found what I was looking for in the contemporary specialist literature “Manuel de Greement” by F. A. Coste from 1829 on pages 120/121. Accordingly, the footropes of the top gallantyards of the yardarms each extended slightly beyond the center of the yard, where they were then attached. These footropes could not be tensioned with lanyards like those of the lower yards and topsail yards.
Since the brams of the La Créole did not yet have a jackstays, unlike the lower yards and topsail yards, the stirrups were designed and attached in the conventional manner. This means that the ropes of the stirrups were braided and looped around the yard with two to three turns. The ends of the braids, also known as plating (in German, I don't know the English name), were fastened with flat-headed nails with leather washers.
As F. A. Coste describes, the number of stirrups in the topgallant yards must be chosen depending on the yard length. For a corvette like the La Créole, one stirrup per half of the yard should be sufficient.
To make the stirrups, I was able to find the following in the specialist book “The Ashley Books of Knots” by C. W. Ashley:

 
Of course I had the ambition to implement this detail for my Corvette too. After tying in the thimble, the braid was made after unraveling the rope of the stirrup. This is how the meaning of the braid became clear to me. Since these were no longer round but flat, they could be wrapped very well and tightly around the yard and securely nailed down.
Since I still had a main topgallant yard as scrap from making the yards, I was able to try out attaching the braids to it. The result can be seen in the next picture.

 
I think that's how I'll ultimately implement it at the topgallant yards.
Sequel follows …

I’ve become somewhat stymied in my chain-making experiments, lately, as one of the tips of my Xuron PE snips snapped off, while cutting soft annealed wire (28 gauge).  Maybe I’m using the wrong tool here, but should the tip really snap off after such relatively light use?  Is there a better tool in the Xuron range for 1:96 chain making?
 
Anyhow, that’s all on hold until I buy better/more appropriate tools.  In the meantime, I just wanted to make some progress doing anything, so I finished detail painting the main deck gun carriages.

I appreciate all reasonable advice to correct the implausible/impossible carriage trunnion mounts.  After much hemming and hawing, during my phase of no progress, I have decided to let this one go in the interest of keeping things moving onward and upward.  I am satisfied enough that I spread the trucks, and I will re-position the barrel trunnions themselves, so that the cascabels don’t overhang the back of the carriage to an unreasonable degree.  Good enough for this go-around the May-Pole.

I have blacked-out the truck axles and the glue blocks underneath all visible carriages.
 
One other incorrect detail of my model that I would like to better understand the “why for,” is the rake of the channels.  I have chosen to back-sweep the forward and aft edges of my channels:

This just feels intuitively correct to me.  To the contrary, though, all credible monographs show a slight forward-sweep to the fore and aft edges of the channels.  What is the logic behind the design?

finished the quarter badge on the other side and some other small friezes:






 
 

Hello,
after some days with snow and sunshine I'm now back at the shipyard. In Dec. we had here in Schleswig-Holstein an average of 5 hours sunshine!
Cutting the planks for the gangway

The painter has painted the knees and the carpenters made the planks ready for installing.

In the front on both sides are cavel blocks

And now is the gangway ready, except for the rails to the outside, who come when the whole ship would be mainly ready.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-two
Inboard fittings
A necessary job before I start is to add the bulwark tackle rings for the guns.

3294
A ‘long pole’ drill is useful for clearing the pin holes.

3296
As with the Main gun-deck I have replaced the kit items with Amati fine eyebolts and 2mm rings to make ringbolts for the breechings.

3297

3298
Look better to my eye than simple eyebolts.

3301

3321
To complete the bulwarks there are belay racks, cavel blocks and cavel cleats to add.

3302
I did wonder about the set of three cavels on the Fo’csle, they do appear on the restored Victory but I could not find examples on Navy Board models of Frigates and other larger ship types.
 
Even so, they do make useful additions for rigging of the model.
Chris has allocated the aftermost cavel (31) for the Fore Topsail tye, the centre (39) for the Fore-yard lift, and Fore-most (87)- Main course Bowline.

3311
The  Foc’sle carronades are fitted with brass nails into the deck which holds them secure whilst allowing them to swivel.
A spare carronade slide is used as a template to mark the nail holes on the deck.

3305
The cowl for the Brodie stove is fitted with a length of copper  rod which secures it in place whilst also allowing rotation. 
My preference with fittings is to avoid glue where possible.
 

3304

3309
The Foc’sle Bitts are completed.

3310
Still a way to go, with lots of fittings left to make.
 
Onwards.
 
B.E.
20/01/2024
 

As far as pissdales, it probably won't help you, but I found this illustration in the book by J. Franklin "Navy Board Ship Models 1650-1750", showing how this device looked like on the First Rate of 96 guns c.1702. No further text on exact placement of these conveniences, though...   ☹️
 

Hello, and thank you GrandpaPhill
what I found out is, when the FC deck is overhanging over the first cannon in the waist, they have ladders. First the Royal Oak and then the Medway
 
When there is no overhang and that is mostly the case, not. And you could see, why not. 

L.G. Carr Laughton wrote only that the gangway way was introduced in 1744. Nothing from only temporary. The next picture is the 60 gunner (1745) I saw at Chatham and then the frigate Lowestoft (1761) At the Lowestoft the ladders are missing, I think.


Here are the gangways installed. The ladders in these cases are at the entry. That is I think the way I would build it. The question is then, where would be the pissdales? 
 
Joe J. Simmons III wrote in his booklet: they where often installed forward and aft against the bulwarks in the waists on contemporary models. So where there four of them? Under the QD is the head-room much better. Should I build them there?
 

Hello,
the carpenters finished also the standards for the starboard side and set them in. The painter is just ready with painting. 

But then arose a problem. There where the Painter now stand, I would build in the pissdale. But I also would build the gangway between FC and QD! The painter is not the largest on and the gangway would be 5 feet something high above deck and 1' 6" broad, so performing your business there would not be very comfortable!

In Goodwin's English Man of War at page 193 he wrote this:

The gangways where only temporary. But then I think I need a ladder to reach the fore castle and have the same problem. But you did't see many models with ladders there. When, they have a short gangway and look very fast installed. Where there none and the sailers had to climb up there somehow?
 
Ideas for this are very welcome
 

Here, the sunlight is soon coming back, I've taken this opprtunity to prepare a fast afternoon photo bonus :


 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-one
 
Completing the Carronades.
One of the most tiresome aspects of completing the carronades is assembling the iron straps and breeching rings. 2mm ø Amati rings were used.

3268

3272
These are tiny things attached to the side of the bed and I found it useful to hold the beds in an angled vice to perform the attachment, using ca.

3273
With the Iron work completed, the barrels are glued into place.
I have set the bed to the inboard position as I prefer it to the ‘outboard’ look.

3280

3290

3287

3291
Following a test fit on the deck, the carronades will be squirrelled away as work continues.

3293
Relieved this tiresome aspect is completed, but more tedium beckons with the ironwork for the inner bulwarks.
 
 
B.E.
16/01/2024
 

Hello,
after a longer pause at the shipyard, is here now again action 
The carpenters build and installed the standards for the port side. Some weeks before they turned the pillars for this deck.



 

Post One Hundred and Thirty
Carronades.
The 42 pounders are nicely made with resin barrels, Pear beds, slides, and etch fittings.
They will be highly visible items on my build, without the distraction of top hamper.
 
I had already made up four carronades for the cabin area, and those seemed to take an age to assemble with the multiple stages.

3230
Assembling the remaining 14 is an endurance exercise but it helps to set up a production platform.
The iron work was chemically blackened, and the barrels treated with dark brown weathering powder after painting.
I replaced the kit breeching ring with Amati 2mm rings and added the Royal Monogram to the barrels.

3236
These are available as laser board items in different sizes from Syren. Always worth having a supply on hand.

3233
The Monograms were applied before priming and painting.

3238

3241
Three days’ work to complete the painting of guns, beds and slides.
 
My mind returned to the possibility of adding winding bars to the elevation screw.

3253
I played around using cut-down 0.6mmø pins for the screw to which tiny eyebolts are added for the winding bars.

3255

3258
I thought about representation of the threads. The smallest threaded bar I can find is M1 which at 1mm ø is too large, but at 1:64 scale such detail would be very fine, and barely seen.

3251
On balance it looks better to my eye with them than without.
 
There still remain the iron work to attach to the bed and slides before I can complete assembly.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
 
14/01/2024