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tarbrush

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  1. Like
    tarbrush got a reaction from Shazmira in San Francisco 2 by Shaz - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Wood   
    Robynn, my hat is off to you for taking on this re-work on your model. I know that would have been the kiss of death for me and the model would been assigned a berth on wreckers row. You have inspired me to have a look at some of my unfinished models and see if there are any that can be salvaged.
     
    But then you casually say you enjoy ratlines... I have no reply to that.
     
    Talk about the right stuff! go Robynn go.
  2. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Shazmira in San Francisco 2 by Shaz - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Wood   
    I would have left well enough alone, but I had nothing to attach the upper shroud deadeyes too. Instructions failed to mention needing to drill holes in my crow's nests first. I attempted drilling the holes with them in place, but even though the metal is soft, I could not get it done without causing breakage to the masts. So, in order to drill the holes properly I need to remove the crows nests. Problem...that means the lower shrouds have to come down as they run through the nests.
    It is not the end of the world, I bought better rope, ordered a serving machine...so I believe that will make doing the shrouds easier this time, and I enjoy the rat lines anyway. It is only setting me back about 3 weeks....oh well, the longboat is keeping me busy in the meantime
  3. Like
    tarbrush reacted to mathewp in CEDAR. wHAT IS IT GOOD FOR??   
    Thanks for all the suggestions.I don't think I"ll burn it. My first model was second planked in Mahogany, which seems very similar to Cedar to me. I was thinking of doing the Wyoming for a first scratch build, so a larger model about 3 foot long should be ok to plank with this wood then???. I'm a bit like you Tarbrush, because I visit my pile of wood regularly. I draw the line at talking to it though. Thanks for the offer Darren, but I'm north of Brisbane.
  4. Like
    tarbrush reacted to michael mott in CEDAR. wHAT IS IT GOOD FOR??   
    I respectfully have to disagree, it depends on the type of hull and how you will be finishing it.
     
    this is western red Cedar on my hull.
     

     

     

     
    Michael
  5. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Cap'n Rat Fink in Victorian Steam Launch by Cap'n Rat Fink - FINISHED - Constructo - 1/26 - kit-bashed to the WINDERMERE   
    Thank You calt4 and tarbrush,
     
    Tarbrush I just read over my thread again. My wife will be driving around town this week getting us ready for vacation. I noticed your remark, if you PM me with your address I still have the plans and instruction booklet, and I could mail them to you if you like sometime later this week. They are just sitting in a box so they won't collect dust....let me know..
     
     
  6. Like
    tarbrush got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Victorian Steam Launch by Cap'n Rat Fink - FINISHED - Constructo - 1/26 - kit-bashed to the WINDERMERE   
    Hi Mario
    I am really excited about your build log, you did a beautiful job!  I was building this same kit a few years ago, when we moved cross country.  all I have now is the mostly planked hull, the rest of the kit along with the plans and instructions went missing.  I think I may be able to finish my model now by following your build log.  Keep those photos coming please. 
  7. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Michiel in Prins Willem 1650 by Michiel - 1:50 - POB Zeeland ship from own plans   
    In the meanwhile I also finished the rack of muskets, so that asks for new photo's of the cabin:
     

     

     
    Best,
    Michiel
  8. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Mahuna in Freezer Paper - an awesome tool   
    I'm relatively new to ship modeling, and lately have been cutting some pieces out from patterns for spiling, etc.  I started by using rubber cement to adhere the pattern to the wood, but didn't like the amount of mess and the residue left on the wood.  I've tried a few other glues, but they basically gave me the same issues.
     
    My wife is a quilter, and suggested using freezer paper (she calls it the quilter's best friend):  draw the pattern on the plain side of the paper, put the waxy side down on the wood, and iron it onto the wood with a low-temperature iron.  It worked great!  Adheres to the wood and doesn't move around while working with it, then easily peals off with no residue on the wood.  A side benefit is that the pattern can be reused if desired, since the wax on the back doesn't come off on the wood.
     
    Since this worked, I wondered how the paper would work in a printer.  I cut a piece to 8.5X11, flattened it by rolling it around a piece of pvc pipe a few times, then printed a test pattern on it in my inkjet printer (I don't think this would work in a laser printer because of the heat).  It worked great.  Now when I learn to use CAD and learn to loft frames using CAD, I'll be able to print out self-adhering patterns.
     
    Frank
  9. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Anja in Half Moon by Anja - Corel - Wood - 1:50 - (d'Halve Maen)   
    Hello Tarbrush,
     
    Thank you for looking in at my build.
     
    The deckplanks are Mahogany strips with one layer of clear varnish and one layer of stain.
     
    The last picture shows the wood used for the second planking of the lower hull, Tanganika.
    The stain is water based and just of a dark colour. A sort of Walnut / dark Oak colour.
    I'm sorry, but I saw that I didn't wrote the brand down in my log.
     
    The pore-filler is a sort of milky liquid which leaves the wood a slightly, darker colour after it's dried, but you hardly notice it.
     
    It is difficult to obtain just the right colour you want.
    The thickness of the layers and color of the wood also determines the end result.
     
    I hope this will be of some help to you.
     
    Take care,
     
    Anja
  10. Like
    tarbrush reacted to Anja in Half Moon by Anja - Corel - Wood - 1:50 - (d'Halve Maen)   
    Hello all,
     
    An update, as promised.
     
    I placed and glued the headpanels on the hull.  The front end isn't glued yet.
     
    I decided to cut off all the bulwark tops, because the difference in size was just too much to correctly place the 'new' inner bulwarks.
    The inner bulwarks were then glued in place.  I put in a waterway, wide enough to cover the spots where the bulwark tops used to be.
    So, the waterway may be just out of scale.
     
    Still have to decide what to do with the finish of the hull.  See last picture.
    I think I will go for the one with the pore filler and stain.  That has a nice colour and smooth surface.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Thanks for looking in and take care,
     
    Anja
     
  11. Like
    tarbrush got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945   
    Hi Piet,
    Happy belated birthday, I just found your build log and am exicited about following it,  This is a great project, the sub in frame looks fabulous!  Makes me think of trying one, I have always wanted to build a model of Jules Verne's Nautilus. 
     
    You mentioned that you weren't going to say much about planking, I really wish you would though.  I think it would be very interesting to hear about how you do it and the problems you may have to overcome with this hull shape.   I am also really interested in how you will do your simulated steel plating. 
     
    take care,
    john
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