sawdust

Well Mick we have Eamonn to thank for coming up with a date for fitting the engine Thank you Eamonn!! I am not crazy about those lifeboat containers either. and they detract from the overall appearance don't they? I think your colour choice will be fine . They have probably changed many times in recent years. Your build and the discussion it has provokedhas revitalised my interest in sailing barges. Thanks Kip

Hello Mick . No propeller then why worry about throttle control. Alternatively add a propeller. Dear Mr billings has trouble deciding which time period his kit represents . Kip

Hello Mick pleased to hear that your nurse is optimistic about the possibility of a new drug. I think a positive attitude goes a long way too. The structure you are working on is now the main cabin but was originally the main hatch , but at that time it would not have had a roof but a series of removable boards and a canvas cover which would have been battened down in bad weather. There would have been no portholes or sky lights either . The plastic thingies represent containers which contain inflatable life rafts. A must have when carrying passengers but not required when the crew consisted of two men, a boy and a dog. Who knows when they added the iron sail( inboard engine) When built back in 1925 the fleet of steel hulled Everard barges had provision for engine but at that time none were fitted. just out of interest did Billings fittings include a propeller? Thanks for sharing your progress. Kip

Hello Darr pleased to heat that you managed to pick up a used copy of Mastini's book and are also planning to purchase an additional Lady Nelson for yourself. Did you manage to take a peek at "Ship Modelling for Dummies"? Enjoy the journey, Kip

I must admit I dislike those flat spools and now buy rigging thread in largest possible length on round spools. To relax the thread I cut off about six feet soak in hot water and suspend the thread with a weight on the end from one of a set of magnetic hooks I have attached to the steel door of the workshop . After 24 hours the kinks and bends are removed. I only cut off what I need and replace the weight on the end of the remaining length. Kip

Hello Darr, I think of the three you have listed the Lady Nelson is an excellent choice. Victory models produce quality kits with excellent materials. With a single mast the rigging is relatively easy The fact that the instructions are in English is an added bonus. I didn't know they had produced a DVD of this kit, Where did you see that listed? Your dad can buy tools as he progresses, but to begin with make sure he has a good hobby knife and a plentiful supply of #11 blades along with a selection of different grades of sand paper. Perhaps one book on model ship making is a good idea. One of my favourites is " Ship Modelling from Kits simplified " by Frank Mastini . It may be possible to pick up an inexpensive used copy through abebooks.com. I am a great fan of Hubert Sicard's site "Wooden Ship Modelling for Dummies. A membership costs $40 . It is possible to take a somewhat restricted peek before laying out the money. It is continually updated and contains much useful information, tips and techniques often illustrated with video clips. I look forward to your father joining us on MSW. Kip

Hello Darr, It would probably be a good idea to indicate country of residence. I am thinking it might be the UK? In which case the availability of Bluejacket , Mid west, and model Shipways products is somewhat limited. If this is the case Take a look at Cornwall Model Boats. They carry a comprehensive selection of all the European manufactures and their prices are very competitive. I agree the simpler the better would be a good choice. Kip

Thanks Craig, Peter , Bob, Davy boy and Yves for dropping by and your encouragement. It is much appreciated. I have now located most if not all the parts I previously made. It is amazing how many parts I had created and salted away . I first plan on permanently installing the bowsprit and head rails etc. . I know that it all fits and with my steadier hands there will be no breakages. Kip

Sails look good Don. That seam tape worked a treat. Did you use the Billings sailcloth? thanks for sharing. Kip

It has been over a year since I have worked on my Sultana. My hand tremor which had become progressively worse over the years had reached the point where I broke more than I made. Lack of a steady hand and manual dexterity limited my abilities and activities. I chose to abandon my prescription medication since it did not eliminate my tremor and affected my reaction time and I could not give up driving. Ship modelling became a spectator activity. I still enjoyed visiting MSW, reading and meeting with my good ship modeling buddies here on the island. My dear wife had been taking magnesium to alleviate her night time leg cramps. On Christmas Eve while reading articles on the importance of Magnesium in our diet she discovered an article which described dramatic improvements for people suffering with the inherited condition "essential tremor" . The improvement had been brought about by a daily dose of 500mg. I began taking magnesium supplement there and then Ten days later my tremor has not entirely disappeared but my hands , especially the right are steadier than they have been in many years. As my Admiral says I can now eat soup in public!!! The other day I sat at my bench and tried theading blocks and tying knots using tweezers. I met with repeated success. I feel I can return to working on my Sultana and Old Blue. I would not normally share personal medical information over the internet but hope that in doing so that any other crewmember suffering with the same affliction will benefit from my experience. Best Christmas present I ever received. Once more I am enjoying the journey and not just watching from the sidelines. Kip (aka Sawdust)

Hello Don and a Happy New Year. We all make mistakes but its how you overcome them that is a true measure of mastery. Good fix. Have fun, Kip

Hello Mick. I believe the portholes on the hull were only added in recent years, when used as a corporate " party vessel ". Since you are modeling the Will Everard its original name, a working barge and not the Will ( as named in recent years) you have every justification for not including portholes, You are the captain it is your choice. Kip

Things are already looking better, keep up the good work , have fun. Kip

Hello Skyline, Have you finished shaping the hull according to the supplied templates and the deck templates I suggested you make? if not you still have material to remove and may be able to create straight sharp edges and remove what you refer to as lumps in the [process. I have been studying your photos and believe that you may have rounded of corners by using sandpaper supported only by your fingers, not a good idea. My preference is to use a combination of wood files, rasps and sand paper supported by a sanding block to get a cleaner edge. Rather than carving with a knife or chisel. I also scrape surfaces with a single edged razor blade to get a smooth and flat surface. It takes longer but allows more control. Remember once you have shaped the hull according to the templates you will still have addition material to remove. Since you are following Chucks practicum you will need to remove an additional 1/16" above the wale to allow for hull planking and there will need to be additional material removed at the junctions between decks to allow for the installation of face boards. Before you do this you should also check the deck camber Youneed to make another template to do this. Wood filler is not the easiest material on which to form hard sharp edges and corners, but all things are possible. Remember both hull and deck sides are planked so this allows some latitude in hiding imperfections. Take your time and enjoy the journey. Kip

Hello Skyline and welcome to MSW. Accurately " carving " a solid hull has its own set of challenges. How close a fit did you manage with the suppliesd templates and drawings? In ones haste to remove material it is easy to become overenthusiastic particularly if using knives and chisels. I found that removing small amounts at a time and then continually checking and rechecking the hull ( using the templates) was the best policy. Wood files, rasps and sand paper backed with a solid sanding block were my tools of choice. Wood is very forgiving as is Model Shipways! If too much material is removed it is always possible to splice in a repair piece of wood and in the case of gouges etc fill them with woodfiller.I prefer Elmers water soluble brand. If things get really out of wack Model Shipways have been known to supply a free replacement hull. At the onset of my build I photocopied the original plans so I could cut them up and make additional templates when needed . For example I cut out the individual decks from my copy of the plan view( mount them on card) so I could check the individual decks. The dimensions and symetry of these decks, particularly the main deck is quite critical if you are not to have later problems. I hope my own experience is of some value and I look forward to following your build. Enjoy the journey, Kip( aka Sawdust)

Hello Mick, regarding painting the Deck planking you have probably made the right choice in deciding to paint it since you are representing it in its original form.. According To Edgar March on page 199 of his book "Spritsail barges of the Thames and Medway" the decks were often made of 3" thick pine caulked and then painted on both sides. He also observes that on the best quality construction the deck planks were laid in continuous length Of course in the floating gin palaces that many of the survivors have now become the decks would be pretty with varnished hardwood. Have fun, Kip

Hello John, Hubert mentioned the fit of some of the frames were tight and also their alignment in some cases needed adjustment. I should have mentioned that there is a one time subscription fee of $45 (?) but it is possible to take a somewhat limited look before laying out money. The site is fcontinually updated , full of tips and techniques many in video form. In case you are wondering I have no connection with Hubert other than being a satisfied customer. You may wwant to seek the opinion of others before subscribing. Have fun and enjoy the journey, Kip

Hello Bob, I cant claim any credit any for the earlier mention of a Lazaret. Was it "working Sailor"? When I purchased my copy of Jenson's book I found by far the cheapest source was "Chapters Indigo on line" it was about $16 if I remember correctly. Full of nice drawings and interesting facts. Kip

Hello John, If I recall correctly there were a number of builds of this kit on MSW1 so there is some expertise and experience that may resurface as you progress. Do you have membership to Hubert Sicard's site " wooden Ship Models for Dummies"? He featured the kit as a build . Sadly after a very informative start he dropped the project. I know early on decisions' have to be made regarding whether the deck planks are to be laid curved, as in the illustrations (but not in the instructions). I know he also installed the outer gratings correctly so that the tops lay flush with the finished deck. It is an elegant vessel and good quality kit. How is your Italian? I look forward to following your build. Kip (aka Sawdust)

I think I've found it! Pages 66 and 67 of Jenson's book Contain drawings of the original 1921 Bluenose. On the port side next to the ships wheel is a round object On page 67 in the color scheme drawing the same object is identified as "Lazaret Hatch Cover (grey)" Certainly a small and a rather uncomfortable access to a dank and damp area. It looks as if they improved on it sizewise on the II. Kip

Hello Mick , thanks for sharing your progress on the Will Everard.. I love these remarkably efficient and beautiful sailing craft. Have you read " Modelling Thames Sailing Barges" by Ewart Freeston. It contains much usefull information on sailing barges You might be able to gain access to a copy through inter librarloan or even purchase a used copy through abebooks.com. Have fun, Kip

I have just looked at Phillip Eisnor's drawings and it is not included on them. I am inclined to think it is not a permanent fixture like an access hatch but is more likely a movable container although somewhat cumbersome and apparently not equipped with handles. I recall the discussion back on MSW1 but if my memory is not flawed no firm conclusion was reached. Kip

Hello Don, good work and almost finished. I look forward to seeing it up close.. Thanks for sharing, Kip

Hello Mike, I agree with previous comments concerning Panarts armed launch. It is an excellent kit with quality materials and fittings. There were a couple of build logs on the old MSW that sadly have not resurfaced. However there is a practicum on Hubert Sicards " Wooden Ship Modelling for Dummies" A lifetime membership costs $45 and it is possible to take a somewhat limited peek before laying out ones money. I have also purchased items from ' Cornwall model boats" and find them efficient and competitive pricewise. Enjoy the journey. Kip

Hello Rob great to hear from you. . I hope you make it accross the strait to the island . I would love to meet up with you. Dont forget to plan a trip to the Maritime museum in Victoria. Enjoy the journey, Kip