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Everything posted by kayakerlarry

  1. Thanks, Mark. Here is her final resting place on stair landing - we are going to do a kitchen/living room reno and perhaps she will get the place of honor in the living room built in... Model Shipways New Bedford Whaleboat just arrived today so hopefully this one won't take me 5 years! Thanks for everyone's support and guidance. Larry
  2. FINISHED!!!!!! Only took me 26 years since measurements were taken of actual wreck on beach and 5 years from first purchase of wood for model - now what am I going to do for the next 26 years???? A few final pics before I put on glass case top and move to final resting place...
  3. Great work so far! After 5 years working on a scratch built coastal coal schooner (Howard W. Middleton) I am literally hours away from placing the glass case over the model - sometime next week. Time to think about my next build and this model has caught my eye as I need something that may take a bit less time but holds some interest and challenge. I never had a chance to go to the New Bedford Whaling Museum but I am sure it would be a great way to get some background on this boat. However, I did meet Erik Ronnberg years ago and have followed much of his work so I am sure this model is as good as it gets. Good luck with your ongoing project and I look forward to following the build. Regards Larry
  4. Here's a view from the opposite direction where you can see the "deadly" rock just exposed at a very low tide. And here is current progress - almost done. Installed mizzen backstay and working on main/fore mast backstays. Cherry base has final coat of finishing oil and final work to be done on installing centerboard, rudder and dinghy - all ready to go once model is placed onto 3/32" brass rods on base. Will post final pictures once complete.
  5. Cherry base delivered and incredibly it fits the glass case perfectly (good to have good helpers...)! My original idea of 1/16" brass rods to support model that was planned to sit 1 1/2" above base to show 3/4" of lowered centerboard will not work unless I want to see entire model shake anytime someone walks by. Have ordered 1 3/8" high brass pedestals that I think should properly support model and still leave enough room to display partially lowered centerboard. Now working on rope coils for all the belaying pins - lots of good suggestions here. Have also attached a picture from a kayak trip this week out to Richmond Island just off Higgins Beach. The Middleton rounded this point in dense fog and heading into what they thought was a protected cove - it was if they headed to starboard but by heading a bit more to port they hit a rock and ended up on our beach. For those football (American) fans in the crowd, if you look really carefully you can see Roger Godell's summer "cottage" in the distance out on Prouts Neck - and no, the local lobstermen don't care for him...
  6. Being that tonight is the 121st anniversary of the demise of the Howard W. Middleton just a short distance from where I now sit it is fitting that I spend a few minutes and update folks on my progress. Move from Mass to Maine is complete and modeling area is set up with LOTS of boxes still to be unpacked (priorities...). Mizzen rigging complete and now working on anchor and associated fittings (was researching anchor chain and seemed like I should build two anchor boxes). Final list of to dos complete with probably another month of work ahead of me. Unfortunately one of the victims of the move was "misplacing" all the 1/4" brass angle I purchased so had to reorder from K&S Metals. Spent past two days (probably total of 5 hours) building glass case. Had the expert help of a good friend who is a retired 777 pilot for Air Canada so we had lots of time to debate how to best measure all the pieces using either centimeters or inches - inches won. All in cost for the case (30"L x 20"H x 7"W) is approximately $100 for brass and 1/8" glass (let's not worry about having to reorder all that brass angle...). Cherry base will be built by a good friend who loves to build furniture so there will be some donation for that! Attached are the final pictures of the case - we didn't have the equipment to do nice mitered edges but snips and files did the job pretty well.
  7. Mizzen mast rigging almost complete, dinghy ready and all glass and brass angles ready for case construction. However, it's time to move the Middleton back to her final resting place at Higgins Beach, Maine for completion. Moving truck arrives July 1st and we close on our condo in MA on July 10th and move into our house at Higgins Beach. So signing off for a while until I can figure out where my modeling work area is going to go in a smaller house with limited storage. And then there is the age old problem of where I am going to "display" my four completed models and make way for the one that gets top billing - the Howard W. Middleton...I guess there are bigger problems we all face!
  8. Quarter boards and transom lettering completed. Modified the transom from my original design based on picture I had of a 3 masted schooner built in East Boston
  9. Finished product. Simple planking wood, painted, press on letters with a bit of carving at ends - scale came out just about exactly to 12' actual quarter board measurement. Not what I set out to do but pleased with the final look. End of this topic for now - other pics posted in scratch build log... Thanks to all for your help and support!
  10. Thanks all for your suggestions. I took a break from carving and finished tying all my ratlines (1200 clove hitches to be exact...). Given my lack of success (I did my best to use everyones suggestions) I will probably simply use the press on letters. I'm sure there is a way to link this post to my build log post in the scratch build section but if anyone wants to follow you can simply search for name of ship - Howard W. Middleton.
  11. A bit of a change to do some "accessorizing" today. Lashed 1/16" x 1/16" x 1/2" (6"x6"x4') timbers to fore deck right behind coal hold. Both coal and timbers are from the actual wreck of the Middleton - I cut timbers from a treenail. One thing I did find out is that if you cut old wood that has been in the ocean for over 100 years and dried in furnace room for several years, you better clean up the sawdust otherwise you end up with rust on the metal saw table!
  12. Well after 10 long months, 394 ratlines and 1200 (exactly...) clove hitches I'm finally done with this phase. Quarter board carving hasn't turned out so well so will now move onto finishing running rigging and then who knows.
  13. Allan, The wood is European boxwood (a fellow forum member was kind enough to send me a small supply of boxwood, pear and holly to try). I'm sure it is the limitations of the carver rather than the limitations of the wood... Larry
  14. VERY frustrating! Did second quarter board (one at bottom) this morning after getting a fair first one at top and this one was a total failure. Pieces broke off from both ends. May have to reconsider this process...
  15. Any preferences on type of surgical blade or handle or supplier (Amazon, etc)??? Larry
  16. beautiful indeed!. What a perfect way to harvest oysters...love the colors and equipment details. great work.
  17. OK, got two sides of prototype to look reasonably consistent (will forgo the cut out lines to give a cleaner look in this scale) so I guess there is no reason to delay. Final piece is on top and a bit narrower. Just did some measuring of space needed to fit all the letters after using 1/8" on either end for carving and that will be another challenge for another day...
  18. Getting closer but still trying a few prototypes using boxwood. Piece is a bit wider and thicker than final version but gives me a bit more latitude. I have to admit this is not easy stuff. Won't be quite as detailed as original quarter board but will be "artistically" close...My biggest problem so far is having the back of the piece break off as i cut down into the wood - you can see the impact on the top middle protrusion in second picture. Any suggestions to help would be much appreciated.
  19. Couldn't find any brass lettering small enough so tried the press on white lettering I have on a piece of boxwood. Once the ends are carved and board is painted black, it shouldn't look that bad. Caps are 3/32" and lower case letters are 1/16". Curious to know if anyone has actually carved raised letters that size - seems impossible... Larry
  20. Mark, Thanks for the tip on brass lettering. That would look much better than the white lettering used in railroad modeling.
  21. Cliff, Actually the letters are raised on the real quarter board - it's difficult to tell in the picture. I would absolutely be easier to gouge then do raised lettering. But as I get into this a bit more, the actual capped letters (H, W, M) measure 6" and the smaller letters 5". That means I would have to carve out a cap in 1/16" scale and the others smaller. Not sure that is even feasible (for me at least) so may go to plan B and carve the two ends (they would only be 1/8" long) and use stick on letters that come in 1/16" and 3/32" for lettering. That would also mean increasing the width of the board from 9" (3/32") to 12" (1/8") so I could fit the stick on lettering. Certainly open to any input from any of you experts but I think that is my plan for now. Larry
  22. Well enough reading and enough delaying. Made my first attempt at a "prototype" of the quarter board for my model of the Howard W. Middleton based on pictures and measurements of the actual board (12' x 9"). Used a piece of 5/32" holly before going to the "final" work on a 3/32" piece of boxwood just to see if this is at all doable. Here is my first VERY crude attempt at replicating the two pictures I took of the quarter board earlier this year. At least it's a start...

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