rvchima

Hull Painted, Rudder Completed, and Deck Planked

I painted the hull trim a perfect painter's tape blue. It's actually French Blue, and it sure makes the ship look proud.

The rudder was fun to make but hard to attach. I broke 3 of the pins off of the cast metal hinge pieces and had to drill in tiny brass pins. I used a patina chemical for stained glass (another hobby) to darken the photo etched brass.

The decking pieces were cut as long as possible, then notched lightly every 2.25 inches (12 feet scale) to look like separate planks. When everything was planked I covered the deck with a thin coat of light colored Timbermate wood filler. When that was dry I sanded it off and stained everything with linseed oil. The filler stains a little darker than the wood and makes the individual planks stand out.

Workshop
Does anyone care what my workshop looks like? I live in a house built in 1933 in an old mill town (Chagrin Falls Ohio - is that a great name for a city?), and I have the only not-scary basement in the city. I enjoy woodworking and have as many tools as I can handle. My shop is small but I have a band saw, table saw, drill press, and planer and jointer (out of the photo). Plus lots of other smaller stationary tools on the opposite wall. Most of my ship-building tools are in the oak tool box left of my work bench in the panorama. Ship plans typically get spread out on my table saw. Not the most convenient location, and may explain how I overlooked the bulwarks.

I am a retired NASA rocket scientist (well almost - I mostly worked on jet engines) so that explains the posters.

Shipyard Update:
Binnacle completed:
The boys in the yard have lashed down the Binnacle in it's resting spot.
Finished it off with a knob on each draw and the vent in the top for the lantern fumes. Well that's the intent.
 
 

Next was to add cleats to the Shrouds.

Wow that is some lift of the hull.
Thanks for letting us know the source of the Build.
I don't mind the pictures staying. All adds to the Endeavour 's ongoing History.

Shipyard Update:
Ratlings:
 
A bit of an update to where the "rats" are at.
A good two weeks of part time tying knots > the Fore and Main mast lower shrouds are done.

Taking shape with lower ratlines on Fore and Main Masts
 

Fore Mast Stb Ratline
 

Main Mast Starboard Ratline
 
Some close ups of the ForeMast ratline - knotting in progress.
 

Above: The process I followed was to tie every 6th full length ratline first(loops each end), followed by the intermediate 3rds(shorter by 1 shroud).
Aim being to hold the shrouds evenly, then fill in the pairs between(where the clamps were). 
 

Above:  Each ratline from the jig was tied to the shroud with 2/half hitches to the loop, then 2/half hitches about each inner shroud towards the rear.
Every 6th looped to the back shroud.
The 5 ratlines between the 6th's, half hitched 1 shroud back.
At the bottom, every 6th first (red end line #4, blue length) and then the 3rds (blue #1 & 7, with pink highlight for the length)
 

Above: Further up, every 6th first (red end line #10) and then the 3rds (blue #13, with pink highlight for the length)
This way I kept track of the type and length of each ratline I added.
 
Mizzen Shroud Ratlines:
Setup the paper template on the Starboard shrouds, and made a start this week.


I decided to loop each end of the Mizzen ratlines to the shrouds.
Close up of the end loops. Shows the loose ends not cut cleanly though. Hard to trim them off close without cutting the loop.
 
Plenty more to go.
 
 

Hull Painted, Rudder Completed, and Deck Planked

I painted the hull trim a perfect painter's tape blue. It's actually French Blue, and it sure makes the ship look proud.

The rudder was fun to make but hard to attach. I broke 3 of the pins off of the cast metal hinge pieces and had to drill in tiny brass pins. I used a patina chemical for stained glass (another hobby) to darken the photo etched brass.

The decking pieces were cut as long as possible, then notched lightly every 2.25 inches (12 feet scale) to look like separate planks. When everything was planked I covered the deck with a thin coat of light colored Timbermate wood filler. When that was dry I sanded it off and stained everything with linseed oil. The filler stains a little darker than the wood and makes the individual planks stand out.

Railings Completed
 
I stayed up late last night and finished the rails. Just for fun I did a test fit of the masts.
 
I now have 160 hours invested in my Endeavour (pun intended) over almost 8 months. However, because of the long gap with no work early on, I have only worked on the model on 39 separate days, averaging about 4 hours/day.

The bumpkins and tiller arm are not permanently attached yet.

And here's a look at the stern.

Hull Painted, Rudder Completed, and Deck Planked

I painted the hull trim a perfect painter's tape blue. It's actually French Blue, and it sure makes the ship look proud.

The rudder was fun to make but hard to attach. I broke 3 of the pins off of the cast metal hinge pieces and had to drill in tiny brass pins. I used a patina chemical for stained glass (another hobby) to darken the photo etched brass.

The decking pieces were cut as long as possible, then notched lightly every 2.25 inches (12 feet scale) to look like separate planks. When everything was planked I covered the deck with a thin coat of light colored Timbermate wood filler. When that was dry I sanded it off and stained everything with linseed oil. The filler stains a little darker than the wood and makes the individual planks stand out.

Hull Painted, Rudder Completed, and Deck Planked

I painted the hull trim a perfect painter's tape blue. It's actually French Blue, and it sure makes the ship look proud.

The rudder was fun to make but hard to attach. I broke 3 of the pins off of the cast metal hinge pieces and had to drill in tiny brass pins. I used a patina chemical for stained glass (another hobby) to darken the photo etched brass.

The decking pieces were cut as long as possible, then notched lightly every 2.25 inches (12 feet scale) to look like separate planks. When everything was planked I covered the deck with a thin coat of light colored Timbermate wood filler. When that was dry I sanded it off and stained everything with linseed oil. The filler stains a little darker than the wood and makes the individual planks stand out.

Hi All,
 
Well a major milestone, 3 years in the making has been reached.  The hull is essentially finished.  There is still a lot to do to it but its all little detail work and of course the deck furniture.
 
A lot of blood, sweat and tears to get to this stage but overall relatively happy with the outcome.  There are a lot of mistakes made along the way and lots of lessons learned.
 
Cheers
Slog
 






 

Railings Completed
 
I stayed up late last night and finished the rails. Just for fun I did a test fit of the masts.
 
I now have 160 hours invested in my Endeavour (pun intended) over almost 8 months. However, because of the long gap with no work early on, I have only worked on the model on 39 separate days, averaging about 4 hours/day.

The bumpkins and tiller arm are not permanently attached yet.

And here's a look at the stern.

Hull Painted, Rudder Completed, and Deck Planked

I painted the hull trim a perfect painter's tape blue. It's actually French Blue, and it sure makes the ship look proud.

The rudder was fun to make but hard to attach. I broke 3 of the pins off of the cast metal hinge pieces and had to drill in tiny brass pins. I used a patina chemical for stained glass (another hobby) to darken the photo etched brass.

The decking pieces were cut as long as possible, then notched lightly every 2.25 inches (12 feet scale) to look like separate planks. When everything was planked I covered the deck with a thin coat of light colored Timbermate wood filler. When that was dry I sanded it off and stained everything with linseed oil. The filler stains a little darker than the wood and makes the individual planks stand out.

Second Planking
The second layer of planks is walnut, slightly thinner than the first layer. I love walnut - it's my favorite wood. I started planking at the main wale as shown on the plans, and worked up to the bulwar... Arrgh! There were no bulwarks!
 
This was when I came back to MSW and started paying serious attention to the other build logs. I had misinterpreted my plans but could see immediately what the bulwarks were supposed to look like from other builders' logs. THANK YOU ALL!
 
So I built temporary bulkhead extensions, put on a first layer of planking, then the second walnut layer. I worked down from the main wale until the curvature became compound and the planks just wouldn't bend that way any more.
 
Then I worked up from the keel. I worked upwards until the bottom planks hit the top planks at the bow, but there was still a gap amidships. So I put in some stealer planks as needed. Not correct, but the result looks good.
 
The Caldercraft parts are cut with numerically controlled machining and seem quite precise, but I have already run into several situations where the parts just don't fit.  Now the keel was not nearly deep enough and barely showed below the planking. I had to build it up an additional 6 mm or so to make it look right.

I sanded for ages (again), filled all the gaps with Timber-Mate's walnut colored wood filler, and sanded some more. I stained everything with Watco walnut penetrating oil stain. I love that stuff. I also added the wales and painted them black. I have no plans to show scale planks or tree nails.
 
So I finally corrected all my stupid mistakes and am proud to show the results. The walnut planking couldn't be prettier. I know that there are a million fiddly pieces to go on this model, but it's all stuff I've done before and can do again.

Here I have started to plank the decks. The Tanganyika strips supplied with the kit are very rough and require a lot of sanding, but they finish up beautifully with linseed oil. I am currently about a week beyond this and will try to get some photos up soon.
 
 

Well folks, "enough is enough" - I still have two boats to make (in very slow time) but they will be added to the display case as separate items and not onboard the model.  So, although there are a few more items I would like to add, and a few fixes i would still like to make, I think I will call it quits and declare this one finished
 
The following photos show her in her final fit; but, I must apologise for the quality of the one in her case.  I will take better shots of her in her home when I can control the reflections a little better
 
The photos will be in three posts.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
    
 
 

Hi Shipmates,
Planking on hold for a bit, as my left shoulder muscles are traumatised heaps - lifting too much.
 
So added the Naval Hoods at the bow. That pushed me a bit with the arm problem.
I glued 2 planks, then bent to the bow shape, trimmed and glued in place.
 
I am not sure if I brought the bow high enough up, as the holes only just make it through to the deck, even drilled up a ~ 30deg. angle.
 
Too late to change - will live with it.
 
 

Its 37 degrees Celsius here today and my ship in the garage is suffering the sags, the mainstay especially and the shrouds are loose. I brought it inside and placed it on the bookcase in my study (my indoor mancave) where my Victory normally sits. Looks okay there, my Vic might be looking for a new home when I finish the Endeavour.

The shipyard is open again for a short while so here's what I've been upto.
 
Flagstaff step, eye bolts and helm.
 
While gluing eye bolts all over the deck and in some stanchions for the 4 lbr carriage guns I got a little carried away and fitted the mizzen horse before realizing I still needed to fit the flagstaff step and bracket... oops. I couldn't find the instructions in the kit for the flagstaff bracket except on the plans which doesn't include a step. So with some mutterings I managed to assemble and paint the bracket and bash a step and carefully glue them in place (bracket under the rail) checking the flagstaff for plumb with a 3mm dowel and without needing to remove the horse. For the horse I used card for flanges where it meets the deck.
 
I used the AOTs and kit plans for the eyebolt locations, can never have too many eyebolts as it's harder to add them later. Plus I've added one pair of eyebolts for each of the carriage guns with an extra set on the quarterdeck. The Endeavour was originally fitted with x6 4 lbrs on the main deck and was supplied and extra 4 after she had left dock. In Tahiti Captain Cook mounted 2 of the 4 lbrs on the quarterdeck leaving 4 on the main deck while four were taken to guard the shore fort. Thinking about it this makes sense because the guns on the main deck won't be able to fire on the side you are lowering a boat from, which would leave you exposed to attack.
 
Finished the helm. Thanks to Jud's help in working out the math for the helm tackle in my tiller question regarding the tiller transom, I can confirm that not only does the tackle clear the flu, but it remains at a constant tension throughout its sweep as you can see in the photos (I believe someone asked for a proof of concept). I used brass wire around the helm blocks soldered with one end shaped into a hook and then strung them on a wire and soaked them in dark mahogany stain. Will trim the helm ropes later. I've pinned an axle through the wheel and drum so it can turn and be removed should the need arise. 
 
Cheers Dashi
 
 

Hi guys,
 
Well finished my anchors today.  Still a bit unhappy with the puddening though.  I cut off the puddening and the additional whipping from the last post and started again.
 
I feel got these done a bit better than before and to be honest I think these are as good as I am gonna get them.  I tried to do the whipping again and after doing 2 anchors (8 whips) I gave up on them.  To be honest the time spent on them for mediocre at best isn’t worth it as I can’t get them looking acceptable so only did 2 and left off the other 2.
 
I used CA glue to start and finish the puddening and then when finished waved the rings over a cigarette lighter to remove the fuzz.  It also darkened the thread a little which is fine.

 
 
To attach the stock halves I applied CA glue to recess on one half and positioned it on the anchor shaft.  Then using PVA coated the other half and clamped together


 
 
The plans say to replicate the iron banding with the black cartridge paper cut to 2mm wide strips. I used PVA applied with a brush to the paper and pressed into position and continued my way round the stocks.  The plans don’t mention any dimensions so after a look at the plans and the AOTS I settled on 5mm in from the ends and 5mm out from the anchor shaft.

 
 
All finished, as can be seen there are 2 with whipping and 2 without.  I will get over it.  The stocks and ‘bands’ were given a couple of coats of wipe on poly (applied by brush) and then went over the shafts touching in any scrapes and scratches with metal black paint.


 
Cheers
Slog

Nice and square, but I'd do all the rope work and blocks before you stick it on for good

Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
Hull fittings continued:
 
Gangway steps, skids and main course tack chess trees.
 
Trimmed the kit gangway steps width down to match the Navy draughts @ 2.5 feet. Marked the plumb or vertical line on the hull and fitted the top and bottom step then used masking tape for measuring and lining up the rest of the step positions. Each step needed it's back edge slightly bevelled to ensure it's upper edge was horizontal from the hull. Of course the shipwrights managed to knock a couple of the port lid hinges off while measuring (better we find the loose hinges now than later). The kit skids actually fitted after measuring and slotting the shear strake, but needed a little soak and pinning overnight to the form to the hull then rounding off. The kit chees trees were too short and narrow, while the kit plans had them too long when compared with the draught @ 3.5 feet with a slight tapper. Luckily the disused kit knightheads were the perfect shape, thickness and length after a little trim and tapering, so recycled and bashed these into the chess trees.
 
Cheers Dashi

Thanks Dave. Yeah I think I got one of the first kits out of the yard going by it's serial number. Going by the comments of Paul who recently completed his build it sounds like they have improved the quality and quantity of the wood. I know I moan about the kit sometimes but I'm really enjoying this build and learning so much as it is challenging me on many levels. I'm giving it my best and it's giving it's best back, so yes at the end of the day I think I'm getting my money's worth.
 
A minor update:
 
After Steve drew my attention to the Parkinson drawing and its connection with the as fitted draught I started to really appreciate the historical value of those sketches. So while I ponder what to do with the rail stanchions I thought I'd start my next kit mod using based on those sketches, the adding of the beading which runs 1' beneath the quarterdeck bulwark capping rail and which the swivel gun posts sit above. The only thing I could do was split a 1x4mm walnut plank to give me the 1x2mm beading. Easier said than done and after 3 breakages I finally got a set which I've soaked and shaping on the hull in position. I used a drawing compass set at 1' according to my scale rule to get the line. Tomorrow I will pre paint them, then glue if I have time. These needed to go on before the bulwark capping so now is the time to do it.
 
And here are the trays containing parts in various stages of completion along with a materials tray.

Hi Mr Dash,
Deck fit-out coming along very well indeed.
Particularly like your hatch covers.
 
Dave R

Thanks Ron.
 
After successfully bashing a pair of replacement windlass standards from the sheet that the originals came from I thought I might post some progress photo's of where I'm at rather than wait until the deck furniture and deck are finished. Everything is pinned and dry fitted to the deck and uncompleted at this stage.
 
The pencil lines crossing the deck are marking the beam centres for when I ink in the butts and trunnels. 
 
Most of these photo's refer back to my previous post #77. The main hatch on the right is my first attempt from following the kit and so is too small. The new hatch on the left is closer to scale at 9x7'.
 
I've also included my bashed 'Tiller Sweep Support', from the discussion that can be found here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13109-hmb-endeavour-tiller-and-steering-question/page-6%C2%A0 which I've briefly mentioned in post #66 of this log but to recap based upon the navy deck draught of 1771, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery part 1 Steering, section 2 Tiller and Whipstaff and the physics that we worked out. Unfortunately I've had no answer to the replica tiller. I'm not an engineer so could be wrong but we worked out that the physics of a projecting 19 foot tiller unsupported made from 9x9" to 7x7" solid oak including 3 foot of solid iron tip would generate around 2 ton of cantilever pressure while at rest in the rudder head. It would blow apart if unsupported! Therefore we suspect that the replica tiller is made from modern lighter and stronger material so unless new information comes to light I can't use it as a historical reference. For these reasons and again unless new information comes to light the tiller sweep support is assumed to have been fitted along with the tiller that we can confirm was in the 1768 navy draughts.
 
The tiller sweep support is made so I can do a refit should our findings be proven incorrect. How it is made is by soaking and then glue laminating two lengths of 4x1mm walnut together around a container which had the correct diameter. Then I shaped it to the deck camber and then realized it needed to follow the vertical arc of the tiller. Then I filled scuppers under it and fretted some 0.5 brass into it's face to mark the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full rudder positions. On it's upper surface I glued some black card to represent a metal runner and decided on painting it black because it would have been greased. On the underside of the tiller is a small block that rides on the runner. I've added stops which made sense to minimize damage should the tackle break.
 
Post script: For the wheel drum the kit uses a 6mm dowel which is smaller than scale so I've used and 8mm dowel sanded down to 7.5 mm with thinly sliced 10mm dowel on the ends.  It has a capped removable pin which I'm still refining and turns. The capstan I've used card to make some rings.  The pawls are made out of wood and brass.

The Rudder:
 
 
 
Here's some photo's of where I'm at. I was researching the positions of the deck beams because I wanted to know the positions of trennels and decking butts which led me to start a discussion regarding a tiller sweep support I found on a deck plan of HMB Endeavour which can be found at the link below. It is from this discussion that I will be attempting to build two versions or interpretations for the Endeavour helm in a way that they can be refitted depending on outcome. It is also from this discussion that we work out the correct position and rigging of the helm blocks and tackle to clear the chimney flue from the great cabin while solving the helm rope slack problem. 
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13109-hmb-endeavour-tiller-and-steering-question/page-6 
 
So what I've discovered from this is first that the Caldercraft rudder stock and head are too short by at least 6mm and not deep enough by around 2mm, so not to scale. The photos represent a several attempts and redoes to fix this. More research is needed to finish the rudder head.
 
The kit tiller is the correct length however it doesn't fit into the rudder hole so I've also bashed a new tiller to match the scale and shape of the original from the 1768 draughts. I couldn't bring myself to paint my tiller red, so have stained it. I've also decided not to use the kit tiller uplift attached to the end of the tiller, but instead to bash this from 1mm brass wire. I will bash the chimney flue from the great cabin which this uplift is used to clear as this isn't included in the kit either. The scale rule in the photos is marked off at 1 ft intervals to help me maintain the correct scale which seems to be an ongoing problem with this kit. The 1768 plans also show the stern post protrudes the quarterdeck, so I've added this and framed the rudder hole which also isn't included in the kit either. So some bashing.
 
Having built the rudder I could fit the gudgeons and pintles to the stern and finish the hull below the whale with a second coat of matt poly. The gudgeons and pintles needed some filing to fit the brass straps and allow for an easy fit and removal of the rudder which I will be doing a lot of. I've also shaped the stand so the hull sits level and plumb and glued some strips of old felted wool to it. I've placed wooden locator pins from off cuts that push up into 1mm holes I've drilled into the false keel so I can easily remove and relocate the hull. later I might make a clamping system to hold the hull more permanently on the stand.
 
I've now jumped ahead and started making the deck furniture which I need to dry fit on the deck to find their final locations and finalize the deck beam positions. I've managed to pencil the centres of some of these deck beams aft of the mizen so this could take a while. Once I've got this done and inked the trennels and butts and give the deck a final poly, then I can add the hull fittings above the wale.
 

Second layer of hull planked with the 1x4mm walnut. I needed 2 half stealers at the bow bulwarks for the peak, but apart from that managed to come up the bow without trimming. At the stern I had to do some slight trimming to finish at approximately the top of the quarter deck bulwark.
 
She has had a coarse and medium sand. Then I made a stencil of the hatches, anchor slide etc. and traced these onto the hull so they don't interfere with the trennels and strake butts. Note: I've finished the forward bulwarks 1.5 mm above the frame tabs which has worked out good when stenciling on the hull fittings in relation to the position of the rubbing strakes. (I'm wondering if the thickness of the finished deck hasn't been included, just the false deck for the size of the frames and tabs which is the problem I encountered at the keel with the thickness of hull planks)? 
 
Next I will drill out the pin holes with a no7 bit to form trennels and mark and cut in the strake butts and drill the corresponding trennel holes. I will also drill trennel holes on either side of the hatch positions (which I've penciled on).
 
Then the plan is (which I havn't done or heard of before) to mix up some mahogany water based wood filler with a little black filler to get it a shade darker than the walnut. This I will use to fill the drill holes and joins to simulate the hull trennels and caulking. Then when this is all dry a fine sanding. (If anyone has used this method for simulating trennels, then could you please let me know how it went with links to photos if any cheers)?
 
As for the stern facia I will cut the rudder hole and plank the inside of the quarter deck bulwarks before adding this so I can sand them down to match the facia before gluing. Also will need to trim some ply away from framing parts 17 and 18 as I will be adding some projector film to the windows to simulate glass and don't want the inside to be covered with framing.