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Everything posted by woodrat
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As there seems to be some discussion around nordic mast-steps, here is my take on it. The mast foot is introduced into the step slot at an angle then raised upright between the guides. The lower part of the mast abuts the vertical branch of the keelson. A rectangular timber is inserted behind the mast and wedged in place to hold and lock the mast . The mast is then lashed to the upper beam. Cheerio Dick
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I cant tell from available information if the keelson/mast-step was preserved in the wreck of Helga Holm. If not then the reconstruction keelson has similarities to the skuldelev wrecks: I would think that a chap of your skill would make short work of carving one from a nice piece of scandinavian wood Cheers Dick
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Yes, indeed, Steven. Following along the nordic theme. Here is the central part of the varmint framed loosely based on Skuldelev 1. The framing is providing some much needed stiffening to the hull but I suspect that the hull would have "worked' a fair bit in a heavy sea. Note that three of the beams are through beams. These through beams are seen on many of the hulc seals. Cheers Dick
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I don't know. There are no fruit trees in the park but a range of native australian trees. The canine collector did not tell me from which tree it derived. Dick and Maggie🐕
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Well, dang it! I just wrestled it off the dog. Plenty of fallen wood around the place. Just needed a tad of whittlin'. Dick
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I haven't neglected the hulc, folks. Here are the steps in the making of the Skuldelev-like mast-step/keelson using a piece of local hardwood from the park. The pattern in the wood is easy on the eyes. Cheers Dick
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Didn't know you were a sandgroper ( a fond term for native-born west australians). Yes Chuck, I will make stocks as well as 4 more anchors which will be tied down on the stocks on the foredeck, ready for use. Dick
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I think you are right. We call them "honky nuts" here. I made a cooking pot out of it. It is definitely the hardest wood I have ever worked. Dick
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Thanks John , Steven and Schrader. Most kind. I have made the lateen yard using timber found in the local park. I was inspired by photographs of dhows which show that yards were not perfect machine turned bits of wood but somewhat rough and irregular. I suspect this was the case for this boat. cheerio Dick
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Here is the first anchor. Based on the anchor found in the 7th century YassiAda wreck and after blackening Cheers Dick
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As justification for this , a bas relief from Portus Augusti in Ostia second century CE. Which indicates sheaveless pulleys on the forestay and hearts on the shrouds. Note the scuppers beneath each shroud with a rope suggesting that the shroud was looped through the scupper. I have included this on Yenikapi 12 model.
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The mast did not seem to have sufficient lateral support in the absence of mast partners. So I saw a solution to this as used in certain arab dhows and have incorporated it. It also simplifies to process of stepping and unstepping the mast. here is the lower halyard block. I have decided to avoid sheaved pulleys. Dick
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Thanks, Kriswood. Nothing helps, it's just a headache that wont go away. What we call this beast is perhaps less important than seeing if this keelless banana boat is at all feasible as a practical sea-boat. There is certainly no physical convincing evidence for them in the archaeological record (see early posts for all the craziness). Using reverse clinker certainly can produce a hull but would it sail as well as an old shoe? I don't have the computer skills to put the hull into a nautical design programme, but maybe someone out there in MSW Land could do this. Cheers Dick
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I have here a model of a hulc, boys and girls. An ordinary mediaeval transport. I now wish to plot the internal profile of the specimen. Can you get the camera on it? Observe.. I now clamp the ship to the uprights of the experimental apparatus and support its inferior surface. Why do I do this? Because the hull is weak and cannot resist torsional or laterally directed force. What allows me to draw this profile, boys and girls? It is physics! The tip of the probe exerts a force equal to a glass and a half of full cream dairy milk AND the support under the hull exerts an equal and opposite force. So, Mr Newton is happy! (my apologies to those who have never heard of the late great Julius Sumner-Miller. It's your loss) Cheers Professor Woodrat
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Thanks, Andrew. I fitted the bearing wheels because there was too much friction without them which led to jumping and catching of the slide. Works well now. Dick
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Thanks John and Steven. Louie da Fly complimenting the boat on filthiness is praise indeed. "Straight from rubbish tip to you..." The main problem now is where to place the lower halyard block. The only place I can see that it could go is on the after deck behind the steersman. To back this up I have this 9th century turkish illustration showing the halyard going toward this position. It also shows the "hockey stick" well. And if I'm not mistaken, it also shows a triangular wing on the starboard quarter. And this 7th century graffito shows even more detail" It also backs my interpretation of the hockey stick calcet. Cheerio Dick
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The decking is in place and I have filthied it up a treat. I think it looks like a working boat now. Little to do now but rig it. Cheerio Dick
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The first picture is a flat cross section symmetrical rudder on the ancient mediterranean pattern and the second is a foil cross-section assymmetrical rudder of the 13th century ( on my round ship) Dick
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The way I have done it, the only contact the halyard has is with the pulley and the peg at the tip of the hockey stick. The channel in which it travels is straight. Otherwise the halyard would wear out rapidly. Maybe a second pulley or rotating peg at the tip ?? Still thinking. Dick
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Louie da Fly will like this. I have come up with a possible explanation for the strange "hockey stick" structure at the top of masts of byzantine and venetian vessels. It is a pulley for the halyard but, after going through the pulley, the halyard is conducted forward to the tip of the hockey stick so as to pull the yard away from the mast. This makes it easier to raise and lower the yard. This shows the mast in its step and lashed temporarily to the throughbeam and its stanchion. Cheers Dick
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Having made the shell, the question was: what type of framing? As this putative varmint was known to predate (and postdate) the cog and to derive from the low countries, it was thought safe to position it close to the nordic tradition. So, I have decided to base the framing and decks on the known wrecks the Suldelev 1 and 3. The Skuldelev 1 was a deep sea trader or knarr (knørr?) and was quite wide. It was a sea-going vessel and a reconstruction sailed around the world. It also was deep enough to transport horses (as seen in the Bayeux tapestry. This was judged to be a suitable model for the frumious varmint. So, how to make the floors. I presume these were made by eye and shaped to fit the clinker flooring. In order to do this I adapted and modified an analog plotter which I made to take lines of a half hull for my carrack. first attempt. This barge is going to hold a lot of bread! Cheers Dick
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Yes, in a way. This method without a keel gives quite a lot of strength longitudinally and mandates a somewhat shallower draught. This fits in with the theory that hulcs had their origin in the low countries and was fluvial. Hence the barge like appearance which was mentioned in connection with hulcs and which carried more cargo than cogs. The question is whether these were safe in the open ocean? It would roll like a bastard. The reverse clinker would also have made less leeway which would be handy in shallow waters and may lessen the need for lee-boards. Dick
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I'm back and have had some fun finishing the planking of the hulc's shell. It is strong enough in longitudinal and lateral stress but has no resistance to torque until the cross members are installed. I have taken off the circular supporting timbers at the stem and stern and will replace them with something better. Some caulking, sanding and later oiling to be done. I DO like the lines, slinky-like but chunky. I think the next thing will be nailing of the planks to give it that extra reverse-clinky hulcy feel, pet. Cheers Dick
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