harvey1847

JIG QUESTION.
 
Good Morning Mark!


Now that we´re all re-starting the logs can I ask you to explain how you built the second Jig.
 
The one made like Ed did.
 
If you could make a sketch on paper it would be fine. I am wondering about theclamps inside that blue aluminum rail. The bridge is a great to meassure distances, deck beams, gun ports...


Thanks.


 

Glad to see you back!
 
 I got hooked on MSW thanks to your Bellona like two years ago when I was attempting to build it out of the AOS book.
 
Regards.
 
Daniel.

JIG QUESTION.
 
Good Morning Mark!


Now that we´re all re-starting the logs can I ask you to explain how you built the second Jig.
 
The one made like Ed did.
 
If you could make a sketch on paper it would be fine. I am wondering about theclamps inside that blue aluminum rail. The bridge is a great to meassure distances, deck beams, gun ports...


Thanks.


 

Hello Ed!
 
Wiht that "cadency" of frames I am sure that you will end the hull in two moths or so...not two years!
 
 
Look what I have found about the treenail question. I have tried to translate it the best I could. The sketches talk by themselves but the way it was done in the XVIII century amazed me. It is the Rooth system, around 1752.
 

 
(1) A drill is made that pass through the external planking the frame and the interior planks; A treenail of the same diameter is then selected (for a “B” treenail type in this case*) except the head of it which is a few inches bigger; the length of the treenail should be one foot more than the hole drilled. The treenail is spread with lard and is introduce (2) with a hammer. When we reach to the head where the diameter is slightly more, we need to hammer strongly, that’s why the head is reinforced with spunyarn rope, this avoids the treenail to split. When it has been introduced to the maximum and it extends on the inner side, both heads are trimmed to the face of the planks (3) then a treenail wedge or spile is force in both sides of the treenail (4-5-6) so no free movement is allowed.
 
The sketches of the “blind treenails” talk by themselves so I am not going to translate the text of the same period.
 
 

 
Beautyful work and posts like always.
 
 
Daniel.

This is the Mr Color leveling thinner:

 
Since my local hobby shops don't carry Mr. Color paints and products, I buy it online here. He has great prices and the turn around time to receive the products is lightning fast.
 
https://spraygunner.com/ 

I will be sooo happy when these launches are done!  Im so sick them. 
I have never had a problem with Tamiya’s masking tape before, but this is the launches so...  with Tamiya tape  I usually apply it to my skin first. Theory being the oil from my skin makes the tape slightly less tacky preventing the paint coming off with the tape when unmasking. And that usually works great.

but the launches will not  tolerate  A smooth operation.   So of course some hull red  came off with the tape. 

 I decided to touch up the red with a brush which I hate doing because  it’s a different sheen and texture  compared to airbrushed paint. But it is what it is I guess. 

here You can see the different texture and sheen. 

Oh and theres a new member of the flock,  meet Pearl. 

 

A frigg'in pro brother got to call it quits time for a Scotch.

I think the weathering/highlights look just fine.A story I was painting a Ki-45 Nick 1/48 pale green/darker blotches with the dark blotches done by brush.I did 1/2 of the plane about 1 1/2 hrs of work put it down and came back later the next day actually.I started repainting and crap the blotches were turning out different and the pattern was off??It's all a creative process and one cannot always tap the mood from the day before it was the 2nd time this occurred now I paint in one sitting.Keep that in mind and the formula you used if you walk away keep the paint with the kit. Kevin
 
I know this from a long ways back but just something I have learned.Now back to pg6 got lots of catching up.

Today I basically did the same thing as yesterday to 4 more launches. 



today the Tamiya tape worked great  I took the advice of Canute and put the tape on my jeans first,  worked like a charm too. 

Hello Egen!
 
Beautiful work as always. A table saw is one of the machines on my list for this year...
 
I am kind of "slow" so I have make a sketch to see if I have understood the idea of your device. Tell me if I´m right or wrong please. I´ll erase the post if you want. I do not want to confused the people...
 

 
best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

A small update,
 
Fitted the quarterdeck.  I did not fit the skid beam assembly as per instruction manual, that is first glue in place the back of the quarter deck, then glue the skid beam assembly in place from underneath, then continue gluing the front part of the deck. I realised that if you trim a bit from certain edges of the false deck you can fit the skid beam assembly beforehand and still be able to fit the deck in place. 


 
 
This was something I was dreading to do, the removal of the bulkhead uprights, but it went well until after everything was finished and was working on the deck planking I nocked down one of them.  When you remove the uprights, the forecastle gunport pattern (276) is only holding in place by the glued lower edge with no side support.  I will glue it back after I finish the decking and be ready to reinforce it with the inside pattern and the planking on both sides.  



 
Decking in progress.

 
 
 
With the face of bulkhead 18 I have wires going up to supply the lights for the gallery and the screen assembly.  To cover these I have glued a piece of plywood on to bring the surface flash with the wires which will be hidden after I plank the surface.
 
 
 
The inner bulwark gunport patterns glued in. The deck is sanded but not yet varnished, that was why it looks so white and the chalking is not showing.


 
The quarterdeck screen assembly also ready to be fitted in later on.  I have added the handles for the doors.

 
 
Robert

Thank you Wallace, 
 
Finally fixing the fittings I have been preparing for the upper gun deck
 
A quick jig to glue the ladders in place


 
Carriages glued in place with breaching rope eyelets fixed to the bulwark.

Tackles at the back of the carriages finished with a hook I made from the eyelets (480) supplied with the kit.
 
I added some detail to the cannons that will be showing through skid beam assembly.  I bought these monograms from Syren Ship Model Company.

 
 
Carriages all glued in place.

 
 
Finishing the tackles at the back of the cannons.  I found these wire holders really useful to hold the ropes in place while knotting them.

 
 
Making the side tackles



 
Squaring the ends of the pillars.  A piece of grooved scrap wood became very handy.



 
Companionway guard rails in place.

 
I finished the ends of the rails to the truncheons by seizing imitation. Thread wound round a needlepoint, covered with CA glue, pulled out of needle and cut to small pieces. Rail end passed first through one of them, through truncheon and back through seizing imitation.

 
Fittings on Upper gun deck in place.  Pillars are already trimmed to the right height and glued in place, only the Bitt Pins are dry fitted. 




 



 
 
Next step is to fit the beams and wire in the lanterns I have already prepared for the upper gun deck before I glue in the quarter deck.
 
Robert

All better, now just airbrush it again and re attach. 

This is what I found this morning. No one wants to fess up to it lol. Its ok **** happens. It should be an easy fix to reglue in 3 spots, touch up the paint with the airbrush and re attach it.... in theory.  I bet I brake a railing or somthing on the ship before its repaired. 

I rigged up the two cranes with EZ-line.  And again forgot to paint the PE line to the hook. Also I dont know If I can put the crane onto the ship now or if They will be in the way when I try to put the launches on.  
 

I'm going to order these little guys for the Bismarck. I have no idea how im going to paint them. At 1/200 scale 1 foot = 1/16 inch  So a 6 foot tall man is only 3/8 inch tall! 

 

That's it I'm done for the day, wish i could finish this piece but ran out of time. Until next time!
 

Canute, your right and  that's exactly what I did. I put a fan in my little window. It's sucking out air and the fumes are still potent!!
Thank you Robin!  It's amazing, this whole time I was thinking what a bad job I'm doing on the model. But when I created a build log here I got so many compliments! It's really what I needed for my moral and drive.  So really thank you everyone! 

Today I finally start on the super structure. and  A photo of some photo etch.
first I have to drill out the portholes and sand away all ladders and anything else the photo etch will replace.

Mistakes are made...
 
After installing the first false deck. I measured the centre of the deck and drew a center line with a pencil.
Then the mistake happened. I was looking for the veneer strips for the deck, but couldn't find it. I only had some thicker wood. So i chopped some in little pieces and after a while.....still chopping wood....I've found the veneer strips for the deck....
Then I wondered what I was cutting into little pieces, it turned out to be the strips of wood for the hull......some swearing happend after that....
 





 
So, as Bob Ross liked to say: We don't make mistakes, only happy accidents...
With that in mind, I continued and corrected my mistake and cut the right veneer strips into little pieces...double checked those were the right ones.
 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 



 
So you guys may noticed that the deck is not caulked right? Well it's not that I forgotten it, but I didn't liked it that much so I descided to lay the deck without caulking it. After finishing the deck, I scraped the wood with a metal woodscraper. So i did not sandt the wood.
 
Further on I corrected the shape of the bulkheads at the bow of the ship. Later on a deck will be installed and that part of the ship runs at a specific angle.
 

 

 

Now convinced the top of the bulkheads are correct, I started with placing some walnut veneer.
 


 

 

 

 
So, after some scraping and cutting I continued on the false bulwarks...
 

 

So, I changed the "running" of the walnut strips by following the line of the deck instead of following the natural curve of the bulwark.
It took some effort, but I think this looks better.
 
 


 

 
Okay, this was it for tonight. Until next update!
 
Peter
 
 
 

***Santa Maria 1492 - Artesania Latina***
 
Hello shipmates,
 
Before we are getting started with my new buildlog, a short introduction of myself and the ship is in order.
I'm a member of this forum for many years, and I live in The Netherlands a small country in Europe. Once we were dominating the world seas by having more ships in the water as a nation then all ships from all countries combined. So ships and shipbuilding runs through the veins so to say. Unfortuately after the big crash of MSW all my photo's and my buildlogs were gone. For a few years I put my hobby asside and concentrated on my family and on my work. 
At this moment I've found some spare hours to work on my hobby, and I would like to share my new buildlog with you guys and gals.
please have a bit patience on my written English, because it's not my native language and so I'll probably make some grammatical mistakes and I appologies upfront... 
 
To the project...
 

 
 
History
The Santa Maria originally named La Gallega, was the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first voyage. Her master and owner was Juan de la Cosa. She was built in Pontevedra, Galicia, in Spain's north-west region. Santa Maria was probably a medium-sized nau (Carrack), about 58ft long on deck, and according to Juan Escalante de Mendoza in 1575, SM was "very little larger than 100 toneladas" (about 100 tons, or tuns). She was the flagship for the expedition aside La Nina and La Pinta, two smaller of the caravel-type ships.
 
Shipwreck
With three masts, Santa María was the slowest of Columbus' vessels but performed well in the Atlantic Ocean crossing. Then on the return trip, on 24 December (1492), not having slept for two days, Columbus decided at 11:00 p.m. to lie down to sleep. The night being calm, the steersman also decided to sleep, leaving only a cabin boy to steer the ship, a practice which the admiral had always strictly forbidden. With the boy at the helm, the currents carried the ship onto a sandbank, running her aground off the present-day site of Cap-Haïtien, Haiti. It sank the next day and was lost forever...
 
The build
At first, let's inspect the workplace, which is the kitchen table by the way, and the box...and yes, the box on the left is my toolkit and on the right the ship...



Everything looks neat and tidy at first glance. The box is well organized and the wooden parts and timber are of a good quality as can be expected from AL.
However, the buildmanual turns out to be very dissapointing. A few photo's on one single page and an instruction list is all that's added to the box. The best parts are the two bigger drawings of the rigging and masts which looks very nice doh.
 
 
The Bulkheads and false keel / keelplate
 
I start by numbering all the bulkheads and parts on the plate. They are all lasercut and I use some sandpaper to remove the burn from the laser.
After inspecting a collect all the parts and dry-fit them together to see how good it fits.....it doesn't!
 

 


After some corrections, the bulkheads fits nicely on the false keel. However I noticed a small warp in the keelplate.
I did some further inspection and Yes, it's warped just between bulkhead 12 and 10.
 


This needs to be fixed otherwise I run into some problems later on....I took the keel plate and soaked it in some water. I let it dry between a couple of books with some pressure on the books so the plate was fixed into a flat position. I let it dry for a day and the next day it was straight.
I put everything together again and glued the bulkheads into position. 
 
 
The false deck
 
Next step is to place the false deck on top of the bulkheads. Again, the false keel was pre-fabricated and lasercut.
I use the small brass nails and glue to fixate the plate on to the bulkheads. I have limited tools and clamps at my posession at this moment, so I use the nails.
They will be coverd up later when the final layer of thin wooden strips are placed on top of the false deck.


 
Overhere I use a nail (red circle) to "help" the deck plate a litte bit and guides it into a better position....

After his I placed some blocks to make the bow a bit stronger and sturdier.
 


Now it's time to sand the end of the bulkhead so they are prepared for planking the first layer of the hull. It will be a dual layered or planked hull.
I took my time on this process. If done correctly, the beauty of the lines and shape of hull will shown after the planking process.
It is also the part were I struggle the most and we'll have to see later on if I made some mistakes or not...
 


So, to be continued soon....
 
regards,
Peter
 

Thanks guys. Here is just a little update on the crane. 
 
They are just waiting to poop on something.  Especially oliver, hes a poop machine. 

anyhoo,  here a bit more of the crane coming together. 

i think  this next part is so cool.  The kit provides me with the pullies for the rigging line. One pulley is made of three pieces,a smaller photo etch sandwiched in between two slightly larger photo etch pieces all glued together creating a pulley.  My iphones camera sucks but you can almost see what i mean. 

Finally! im ready to paint launches. There are alot of missing pieces  on them such as antennas and railings and such but whatever.  These were probably the least fun things to do on the entire ship.  

So the Work on the launch is continue slow and steady.

It became too monotonous for me so I changed it up and cut out all the orrs

Still not wanting to go back to the launches I decided to start on the cranes. So I cut  all the pieces that will be needed  out And sanded them

Then started assembly.  This is much funner and way easier than the launches. 

Hola,nuevamente la falsa quilla,doblada y puesta en su lugar...Espero comenzar pronto con el forro del casco.