Beef Wellington

Another good day  -  I fitted the main lower yard  and lashed it around the mast,  then attached the two blocks each side to the end of the yard,  then I  ran the lift ropes  and tied them off on the  bulkhead handrail.
Next job was to attach the two yard positioning ropes  that ran from the end of the yard  down to the blocks on the front of the mizzen tops, these two ropes were also tied off  on the  poop deck  handrails.
 
Its getting there.
 
OC.

I'm  Back
 
I recharged my batt's  and found my mojo   - I decided  to  get out on the table  just what I needed  to continue on the Pearl,   this wasn't much just a few tools  etc,   I  got  the pearl  out of the display case  (still  with a layer of dust - but guess that adds to her ghostly look).
 
After checking were I add left off  - I picked up with the rats  going up the main tops, this I did both sides  - same procedure  of fine sowing thread  wrapped round each then a dab of ca  before trimming each end.
 
I then moved on to the main  top shroud  rats  starting  both sides.
 
It  actually didn't  feel that different  and I picked up quite easily.
 
 
Its good to be back.
 
OC.

Thank you very much Kirill, Dan and Druxey for your thoughts and kind comments, and thank you to everyone else for your likes and looking in.
 
Well, I’ve been quite busy working on a number of small details that will complete the lower transom.  To begin with, I will say that I am searching for suitable tubing with which to make the rudder pintels and goudgeons, so that I can complete that detail.  I am also making small round escutcheon ports for the rudder chain/rope.  Not much to see, there, yet.
 
However I have completed the “nailing” of the transom moulding, the through-bolting of the lower transom knees (which is just a continuation of the side hull detail), and the gun carriage through-bolting of the chase ports.  I will not simulate the plank nailing, as I did on the ship sides, as this detail is only barely visible, if you are examining the model closely.  The overhang of the stern is sure to obscure it completely.
 
I have created the ornamental chase port surrounds. This has been an interesting foray into the pitfalls of not starting from a fully realized scale drawing.
 
My initial hope was that I could use the small frieze scroll ornaments that were left over from the upper bulwark frieze.  I quickly realized, though, that they were not nearly long enough.  So, I made each element, individually.

This simple pencil-rub technique gave me very accurate parameters for the port openings, so that it was only necessary to sharply delineate those lines with a sharp pencil and rule.  From there, I patterned the port surrounds and scrolls:

Now, here’s where I got into trouble!  Even though I did a cursory placement of the caryatid carvings - which have an architectural extension that comes down between the ports and rests upon the transom moulding - I soon realized that there just was not going to be enough room for all of these elements to co-exist.  Here is the detail, as drawn:

Neither the Heller kit, nor the Tanneron model account for these port enhancements.  Now, despite my increasing the breadth of the stern by a healthy 5/8,” overall, I would have to have considered this detail when I was framing the chase ports, in order for it all to fit.
 
At the time that I was doing that, I was not thinking that far ahead, and was merely playing with different spreads for the ports.  The more spaced layout may have accommodated everything, but to my eye, the ports were too implausibly far apart, and the outer chase carriages would have been too close to the ship’s sides. So, I made a visual judgement, there, and I think it was the right call.
 
After thinking about it for a while, though, I realized that I could still incorporate the caryatid carvings, if I eliminated the lower architectural base.  There is plenty of space, above the chase ports, for these carvings to exist in their proper relationship to the chase ports, as well as the supporting corbel figures of Spring and Summer, one tier above them.
 
If we examine what I believe to be the slightly re-designed starboard quarter drawing of Soleil Royal II (1693), the caryatid carvings are shown, in profile, without the architectural extension:

With all of that in mind, I got to work, cutting back the caryatids to their essential carving:

Below, on the left, you can see the carving before I decided to further relieve the sides and back, in an effort to give the carving a lighter and more rounded appearance:

By the way, it was also necessary to first reduce the upper thickness of the carving - before pedestal removal - and then re-scribe the upper portion to my new upper transom profile.
 
All of that is well and good, but I will not cement either those carvings, nor the jaumier-concealing scroll and head before I frame-in the next level of the stern.
 
My bulkheads are made.  Because placement of the stern windows is the paramount detail (they have to fit within a very specific proscribed space of 5/8”), I have decided to start by making the window plate first, so that I can make whatever necessary adjustments are needed to the bulkhead framing as I go; apparently, my lower transverse bulkhead former has slightly more camber than what I want.  I can fair this out in the bulkhead framing and tweak the false stern gallery planking, accordingly:

What also has become apparent to me is that my 5/8” spacing is right-on, on the port side:

The windows fit neatly between the wales, here, but the windows rise a heavy 1/32” on the starboard side:

I think this variance has to do with the process of prototyping the kit, in the first place; there are numerous a-symmetries from one side to the other that have only become apparent as I pattern this or that element of the modification on one side or the other.  Ultimately, this variance will only be barely perceptible in the relationship between the starboard quarter gallery rail, and the upper main wale.  The stern windows will be in a level plane, and that is what matters most.
 
Learning from my mistakes, though, I am already troubleshooting the ways in which I will have to adjust my quarter gallery drawing, in order to fit the reality of what I am building.
 
I definitely need to increase the height of the middle deck gallery windows so that the main deck QG walk lines up properly with the wales - this is a heavy 1/8” increase:

I’m also debating the possibility of shortening the main deck windows to match the height of their counterparts on the stern, which are precisely 9/16”.  The dolphins could remain the height that I initially drew them, and the harp height could be shortened, or in any case re-drawn to at least properly reflect the rake of the QG.
 
A perspective shot, or two:


Lastly, as I often do, I visited the STRAND today.  I’m always searching for a better image of my “Guilded Ghost.”  I didn’t find her, today, but in the back overleaf of a book that seemed much less specific to the 17th Century, I found this extremely clear enlargement of Van de Velde’s portrait of La Royal Therese:


I have many smaller prints of this portrait, but they fail to capture the detail and broad gesture of VDV’s hand, to quite the degree that this reproduction does.  Usually, I take a photo of the book cover, when something like this interests me, but today I failed to do so.  Anyway, it’s all great reference material for my forensic files.
 

So, I’m almost finished with the rudder-head dolphin.
 
Earlier, last week, I tried to upload a video I made, once I had arrived at the cleaned-up outline of the thing.  The video resolution was, apparently, too high to upload from my mobile phone.  At 10+ minutes, the video was also on the long side.  Not even my attempts at breaking the video up into seven shorter segments seemed to work.  In any case, I couldn’t see a way, on my iphone to reduce the resolution, so I gave up on that.
 
The point of the video was to illustrate the importance of setting-in, deeply enough, certain key features of the figure, so that once my scribed lines disappeared, after the modeling process began, I’d always be able to reference these features in their correct location.
 
In the case of this dolphin carving, the eyes and “mane” would be difficult to continually pencil back-in, as I did the rough modeling, so I simply set them in as deeply as I possibly could.  With the way that the mane creates a sort of brow, above the eye, you almost can’t go wrong by setting deeply.
 
So, here are some process photos of the modeling:

Here is the last photo I took, just before setting in the eye sockets and the negative space between the mane and the transitional collar:

With all of the facial features fully defined, it was time to model the body.  Puget’s drawing, above, requires some effort at interpretation, IMO.  I could, simply have done a straight tapering of the body from head to tail, but I thought the carving would exhibit a greater sense of vitality, if I incorporated a serpentine curve:



After doing so, and also establishing a centerline along the side of the body, it was a simple matter of filing soft curves up and down, between each centerline; in cross-section, the body is almost diamond shaped.


After modeling the tail, as best I could (I don’t love it, but it is good enough) - here is what “Flipper,” as I’ve dubbed him, looks like on the rudder-head:



I will still need to come back, after he has been glued in-place, and apply his two flippers to the flats I left just below and to the back of the eye socket.  The flippers will be shaped to their outline, before gluing, and modeled afterwards.  I will also apply “pupils” to the eye sockets using the same technique that I discovered for representing the nail heads, along the wales.
 
Otherwise, work on the aft chase port enhancements continues.  These were particularly fiddly bits, but they are nearing completion.
 
More to come.

Hi Rob, love the last photo's, great to catch up on your progress.   She really is looking spectacular, the extra detailing in the tops is well worth the effort.  Something I remember reading somewhere (never seem to be able to remember where), was that rigging lines would have been secured to the open rail, the pin rails would only have been needed once the bulwarks were built up.  Hopefully someone can confirm.
 
Have been a little distracted myself recently and "Jason" is on a little hiatus right now.  Have been struggling with finding some reasonable quality maple strip that does not have horrible flaky edges and/or surface grain...

Hi Rob, love the last photo's, great to catch up on your progress.   She really is looking spectacular, the extra detailing in the tops is well worth the effort.  Something I remember reading somewhere (never seem to be able to remember where), was that rigging lines would have been secured to the open rail, the pin rails would only have been needed once the bulwarks were built up.  Hopefully someone can confirm.
 
Have been a little distracted myself recently and "Jason" is on a little hiatus right now.  Have been struggling with finding some reasonable quality maple strip that does not have horrible flaky edges and/or surface grain...

And some nicer photos of progress so far...
 

 

Hi all,
 
More progress... just chipping away at various bits, really, while I summon the energy to finish off the bow.  
 
The tops make a nice mini-project. I didn't want to simply paint them all black, so I've used some of the remaining 0.5x4mm maple to plank them before putting on the diagonal strips.
 

 



 
As it stands the black parts are just sat on top. I want to sand them down again and get another coat of black on before I stick them together. I'll probably mark the diagonals on before I glue them together as it will be easier to get a ruler onto the planks.
 
Happily, these parts seem very close to the AOTS plans, so I didn't see any need to scratch build these (other than the planking).
 
I'm really pleased with the contrast made between the maple and the black surround. Hopefully I shall have more progress to show soon.
 
As always, happy building!
 
Rob

Thanks zappto
 
More work on the masts:
 

 
So far, so good  - there are a few wooldings still needed on the foremast, and I've left the masts slightly long until I have the caps ready.
 
Rob
 

Time for a little update. The bulwarks are done, and I've been working on the quarterdeck armament... namely 12lb cannon (actually 9lb on the ship, but the carriages fit nicely) and 32lb carronades... The cannon are from Syren Model Ship Co. - these kits are fabulous, and I don't really do them justice! Step one for me is to build a framework around which to build the carriage. This helps me get them all square and neat.


The following is a size comparison between the 12 and 18lb carriages... I hadn't appreciated what a difference it actually was.
 

The wheels were sanded by attaching them to a rod and spinning them in sandpaper. 
 
Next up were the carronades, which are Caldercrafts from the kit. I was expecting to be disappointed with the castings, but they were pretty good, actually. Some playing around was required after cleaning up the castings to try and make the Britannia metal castings match the cannon barrels which were blackened, and I'm still not quite there, but getting closer I think.

All the fittings were reasonably clean castings with minimal cleaning up necessary.
 

Production line in full swing... And all this is just for the quarterdeck!

 
Since this photo was taken I've also drilled out the holes for the eyelets, and added the brackets at the front.
 
As other Diana builders have noted, the instructions suggest these ought to be mounted onto the sill of the gunport - however this practice was pretty much over by the time Diana was built, and instead the carronade was resting on a pad of wood on the deck beneath the port. 
 
This arrangement can be seen on Victory's carronades, as per the picture below, taken by Julian Fong: (https://www.flickr.com/photos/levork/2302412091)

 
And even more clearly here: https://ageofsail.wordpress.com/2009/02/21/introducing-the-carronade/  , where the carronade has been swung up against the Bulwark, revealing the pad on which it sits.
 
 
 

Definitely time for an update. Unfortunately I haven't been very well for a number of weeks so, quite rightly, work, family, etc... took priority, and almost nothing happened to Ethalion.  Thankfully, I'm over the worst, so it's back on with the project. I needed a break from the things I'd been doing to get my head back into Ethalion, so I decided to start work on the masts. I've been itching to see what the lower fore, main, mizzen would look like and work out the colour scheme. Here is my first attempt.
 
 

 
And finally, I've been moving my previous models into a new cabinet to display them, and it gave me the opportunity to get a few pictures of the fleet  - all are Caldercraft - namely, the Schooner Pickle, and the cutter Sherbourne.

 


Apologies for the quality of the photos... I'll try and get some better ones another time when I have more time, and more energy  I was utterly shocked by the difference in weight between the smaller craft and Ethalion. I'll have to get some scales out at some point, but suffice it to say, it's significant!
 
Next steps are to think seriously about the fittings needed for rigging on the quarterdeck (pintails, etc..); rigging the carronades and cannon, which are just loosely sat in position at the moment, and then whatever takes my fancy next
 
Happy building 
 
Rob
 
 
 

I haven't posted in over a month - time for an update.  
 
I have finished the stern area as well as coppering and attaching the rudder.   The rudder was very fiddly! aligning tiles with those on the hull, attaching the hinges and affixing the pintle straps seemed to be unduly hard!  The straps didn't, and still don't, seem to stick tot he rudder or hull particularly well even when using superglue...gluing to nobbles on the tiles doesn't give much binding area.
 
Eventually it was on, so I started marking up for the wales. 
 
  

I have now turned my attention to the transom area - a little trepidation as many of you have commented extensively about ensuring the levels, balance and profile were correct. I followed the booklet instructions tot he letter (as best I could) and assembled slowly.  the first issue was highlighted immediately - by securing the edge of the stern galley fascia along the edge of the upper stern counter, it was clear that the was a 'list' to port! A list that I couldn't correct as the frame was well and truly sealed and I didn't want to try filing or fudging the stern fascia.  After reflection it was clear this would not be fatal, as I could correct the visual impact when I attached the wing transom by aligned the lower edge with the waterline and infilling the gap between the wing transom and the stern counter with black boxwood; when I did this I was able to remove the visual effect of the skew. 
 
The side galleries were carefully carved into shape but again the misalignment re-emerged when upper counters were shaped and glued: whittling with a sharp knife and sanding the get the required curves - result: lots of nicks in my finger, luckily no blood on the boxwood! - they overlapped the aft gunports by about 3mm. They appeared too high despite all the sides being as per the assembly instructions.  Not wishing to have alarge piece of stern woodwork in the port, I have raised the lower part of the two gunpots by inserting 3mm piece of boxwood which re-injects the balance and, to the casual observer, will not be noticed when the model goes on display.  The upper parts of the bulwarks will be painted so the repair will not be visible when complete. The 'drops' didn't fit snuggly over the main wale forcing the piece to sit at an odd angle, so I carved a small slot for the drop to sit within which will be touched up with black idc.   
 
Before I attached the various fittings - windows etc, I painted the stern blue, again as per the instructions and with the supplied Admiralty Blue paint.  It is woefully shiny, almost gloss, which is no good - any thoughts as to which paint is a good substitute?  Once that is resolved I can add the various fittings, the windows in the phot were just placed in for sizing to ensure sufficient room is left when the walnut strips were applied.  
 
Its not a patch on Rob's excellent work but is okay for my first attempt.  Much learning taken away, including the need to do that fascia alignment early in the process!
 
Rudder next.
 
peter     

I note that my last post was released in late September when I had achieved a few rows on the Port (not starboard as stated) side.  I have now finally completed coppering the hull - phew!  The whole thing took longer, and was harder, than I imagined when I set off on this phase of the bid.  It is easy to rush the sticking on of tiles, to cover the place in glue and to lose the parallel lines leading to a messy looking hull which will detract everytime you look at the ship.  I went steadily along and I think have made a reasonable job of the task - it was after all my first time attempting coppering.  A couple of points to reflect upon. 
 
a.     Don't rush.  Someone on another blog set a target of 3000 tiles an night...madness unless you are extraordinarily slick which I wasn't.
b.     Work out the lines carefully to ensure the curve is natural _ the gore line is important.
c.     I used Gorilla superglue with a brush and fine nozzle which allow even spreading of glue.  Its easy to put too much on the tile so be careful. I sealed the hull with diluted paint to give a better bind and reduce the amount of glue used.  Nevertheless it still took two pots to apply them all.   
d.    Try as you might, you will still get glue on the surface of some of the tiles; it is inevitable.  I used a lint free cloth and 100% acetone to remove the glue.  It had the added advantage of just taking the glare and excessive shine off the tiles as well: they look a little more natural. 
e.    Cutting is easy with very sharp scissors; too large a pair and the edges curl.  They can of course be flattened but it adds time.  I used a dressmakers 2" pair which were ideal. The dimples on the tiles alos make it reasonably straightforward to gauge the shape. 
f.     I applied a 1x1" walnut beading to signify the waterline, painted it black which gave a neat a neat edge to the tiles and doesn't look out of place.
g.    Be careful not to get glue on the finished boxwood - tap it up! 
 
I am happy with the outcome.  I will next look at the stern galleries before fixing the rudder.  Happy days. 

I‘ve ordered pearwood strips for the lower deck, which will probably only arrive the week after next. To keep myself busy I started something else.
This is going to be a loooong build (well at least it isn‘t a Victory) 😳😆
 

All of the blocks have now been attached to the main masts.  I have latterly substituted Syren blocks for those in the kit, and the 'ropes' are also from Syren.  Most of it has come out acceptably, though in assembling and gluing the masts before doing all of this, I have made things difficult for myself.  Doing the shrouds is going to be especially interesting.
 

I notice in the following photo one of the blocks is upside down.  I have since replaced it.


Before the shrouds go on, the pendants need to be attached.  The instructions make no sense to me, and in any event, seem to be at odds with one of the the plans, though another plan (shown second, below) is at least partly consistent with Petersson's shown in the last photo.  I shall use Petersson's method.
 


 

 

The topmast shrouds are now complete.  They are not finally tied off.  We are going away tomorrow for a couple of weeks (fires permitting) and I will leave them until we return.  Sometimes the thread may stretch a little and I can then make any adjustments to the lanyards.  I have redone the protective mesh on the tops and this time made a better job of it. 
 
Best wishes to all for Christmas and the new year.
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the encouragement Kevin.
 
The main futtock shrouds are now complete.  The process proved easier than I anticipated.  First the hooks were inserted to the strops.  The 'ropes' (wetting it makes them easier to work with, and make sure they a longer than will eventually be necessary) are dropped down over the front of staves, then looped over them.  They are then loosely tied to the appropriate shrouds.  The futtock shrouds may then be pulled through the loose knot to the appropriate tension, then properly tied off.
 

 


 
 
 

The main shrouds are finally finished.  The process did not go smoothly and a couple had to be redone.  Here are the results.  I'm not especially happy with the port side, but it's OK, and later, with all sorts of other things going on, any inadequacies will be obscured.
 

 

 
 
.

The lower shrouds are now attached to the main mast.  I made things more difficult than I should have, but tying the shrouds on proved easier than anticipated and they turned out quite acceptably..  The photos give an idea how they were done.  Once the shrouds are attached to the deadeyes and made taut, the respective loops should line up quite nicely.
 



 

 
 
 

The shrouds are finally complete.  I'm rather sick of the sight of them.  The first two photos show one of the the main topgallant backstays.  Any deck furniture to be seen in the background is dry-fitted.  I'm hoping we can make our belated 'Christmas' trip tomorrow, and if so, will try to finish the various yards over the next week or so.
 

 

 
Now here are the various shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Mark. The work has been finished. I just need to sort out the easiest way to get the enormous data files to those wishing to purchase them.  It will include some kick-*** videos as well! The complete works should be available in January. In the meantime here are a couple of photos of the model on the open seas.
 

That is very very nice Simon.  Are you flipping the planks around to get the slight colour and grain difference between the cut plank pieces?  The results really do speak for themselves.

Definitely NOT the horrible Old Leopard!  Your solution on the upper masts with the tenon worked out very well it seems.  Great work Jim, love the full hull shots.

Vane - My preference is always to look to evidence where possible for inspiration.  "The Sailing Frigate" by Robert Gardiner is an illustrated book charting the history of the frigate using contemporary models...I take no credit for anything! 
 
The following images are from the National Maritime Museum collections site, but are illustrated in book mentioned.
 
Minerva (1780) showing the yellow ochre bulwarks with red spirketting
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66278.html
 
Winchelsea (1772) showing the black coamings
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html