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Peterhudson

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    Chichester England

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  1. At last...I have finished the ratlines on the lower shrouds. Far from perfect but, for my first attempt at doing ratlines on this scale, it is not too bad. I will now replace several of the ratlines that are too slack which will also improve the appearance. I have cut the futtock staves and attached them to the shrouds using a couple of clove hitches and a small slip knot which tucks out of the way at the back of the shrouds quite neatly. Onwards and upwards to the futtock shroud deadeyes....slow progress here!
  2. Rob: I note the 4 Caldercraft moulded boats in the photo. Did you ever make them up? I am not as confident about making these boats, to a reasonable quality, from scratch so have hedged my bets and bought two of the plastic hulls and will attempt to make two from the kit. Barbosa has a good thread on making the kit boats. P
  3. Sorry about the gap in reporting. I have attached all the shrouds and begun the laborious task of tying all the ratlines...there are a lot. I used 0.25mm natural line which I stained in India Ink. Each individual line was run through a beeswax block to add a little wax and eliminate line kinks, the wax also helped the knots (clove hitches) slide together by reducing friction. I set each line at 6mm and used two methods to get the spacing correct. One option was to use a couple of pieces of 6mm plank held onto the shrouds by pegs. This method did allow all the knots even in size and the lin
  4. Hi Jason - it was an isolated incident and easily rectified. Epoxy is a great idea which I will use when next I construct a set of deadeyes and chains. Hope you had a good Christmas. P
  5. Over tensioned - pulled the deadeye from the channel. Will need to rebuild the chainlink and redo the shroud - hmmm!
  6. Ahhh - tab on the keyboard activates send! A garbled partially complete message! The routine: a. I attach a deadeye to the line, seize and wash with dilute PVA - cut the line to an approximate length. b. I hold the deadeye in position with the 15mm wire; and place a second deadeye on a wire spacer on to the adjacent deadeye. Loop the black line over the masthead and tension it around the second deadeye. Don't pull too hard as it easy to unlodge the lower deadeye. c. A dab of CA is applied, just enough to hold the line in place whilst removing the wir
  7. With the various sections of the mast complete and a number of blocks fitted, I have moved onto the shrouds. I haven't made a model this large before so it has been a bit of an adventure, however, once I settled my routine, they were comparatively straight forward. I cross checked the various details with a book called 'Rigging Period Ship Models' by Lennarth Peterson which I picked up in a second hand book shop; it shows in really straight forward diagrams all the various configurations of the masts, spars, standing and working rigging and is a good complement to the kit plans.
  8. Thanks Rob. I too have the Amati deadeye strops and found, as you did, that they aren't quite long enough. I will use thread as well - I think the instructions advocate that approach. Trust all is well. P
  9. Some more snaps of the various mast sections. all to be glued and straightened in due course. I think I may have fitted the blocks on the topgallant masts incorrectly - I have glued them laterally - i.e. 90degrees to the keel when I sense they should be fore and aft! Hmm. Will now finish the driver gaffs on the mizzen mast and a few bits outstanding on the bowsprit.
  10. Having finished the Topmast platforms, I worked on the rest of the mast sections: topmast and top gallant masts including the associated testletrees. The latter were a little more complex: the laser cut pieces were cut from the 2mm walnut sheet: the quality is not good and I suspect will be problematic when I come to tension the various strands of rigging. The slots were too narrow and needed plenty of filing to get the right shape...hmm not too content. I used a small lathe to get the correct tapering on the mast sections. Nothing has been glued - i will correctly align them
  11. Having finished the main sections of the lower masts I moved onto the mast tops and the various crosstrees and trestle trees. I first planked the mast-tops with 0.7mm box wood to match the overlook of the ship and to I'm indebted to Rob D for his computer generated plans of the various batons - really useful. I made the top rail with 1.5mm wood attached to 4 brass stanchions (stand alone pack from Caldercraft) and painted black. Blocks attached as normal.
  12. I attached the woolding by just seizing the line around the mast, leaving it loose to slide into position, tighten, trim ends and wash with dilute PVA. Job done.
  13. I then shaped the mast to receive the various cheeks, bibs and forward strengthening strip. I used a small razor plane to create the flat sections, painted the parts, and glued them all together having first attached the iron mast bands made from the black cartridge paper. I soaked the paper strips in water then washed them with 50% PVA which allowed them to slip and slide into position with ease.
  14. Okay - 6 weeks have passed from since my last update; I guess the fact that I just grab and hour here or an hour there is not conducive to regular detailed blog entries. To be honest, I sit in the shadows watching the slickness of Rob's (ETHALION) and Jason's (JASON) efforts, complemented with stunning photos, that I'm not sure I have that much to add! Anyway, I have finished the bulk of the hull - lots of tiddling up to do - so I have moved onto the masts...the boats can wait! I haven't made masts of this stature before so it was a journey of discovery trying to work out how
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