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    Chichester England

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  1. I attached the woolding by just seizing the line around the mast, leaving it loose to slide into position, tighten, trim ends and wash with dilute PVA. Job done.
  2. I then shaped the mast to receive the various cheeks, bibs and forward strengthening strip. I used a small razor plane to create the flat sections, painted the parts, and glued them all together having first attached the iron mast bands made from the black cartridge paper. I soaked the paper strips in water then washed them with 50% PVA which allowed them to slip and slide into position with ease.
  3. Okay - 6 weeks have passed from since my last update; I guess the fact that I just grab and hour here or an hour there is not conducive to regular detailed blog entries. To be honest, I sit in the shadows watching the slickness of Rob's (ETHALION) and Jason's (JASON) efforts, complemented with stunning photos, that I'm not sure I have that much to add! Anyway, I have finished the bulk of the hull - lots of tiddling up to do - so I have moved onto the masts...the boats can wait! I haven't made masts of this stature before so it was a journey of discovery trying to work out how
  4. Thank you Bill and Vince for your advice. I will certainly try this method, especially transitioning via an octagonal shape however, I do have a lot of good quality walnut dowel which ideally I would like to use. The advice in one of my modelling books is to file the end square - again this seems a little rough and ready. I’ll continue to mull this one over. Peter
  5. I am halfway through a Kit model of HMS DIANA (progress in the build blog section) - I have arrived at the ‘making the masts’ section. I can work most of the processes out and read up methods in various guides, I have a small lathe to allow me to shape the spars and yards and will experiment in due course. The area that perplexes me is the method by which the top section of the mast is cut square so that the main top and cross trees/trestle trees can be attached to the mast. I want the top section to be neat and correctly square so doing it by eye is fraught with danger. Any clues on how
  6. I have been remiss in updating the blog. Apologies so here are a few catch up pictures. I have completed the main deck, securing all the cannons, carronades and deck fittings and am now moving on to the bowsprit and masts... Ill try to be a little more diligent with my updates. Peter
  7. so with lining boards corrected, I attached the gunport lids. Fairly straightforward ….except the top of the forward gunport was too close to the sheer rails (the alignment problem again) which meant the lowering ropes would be either be very close to the lid or would enter the hull via the sheer rail which I don't think is accurate: I left them off. I used a little PVA glue on each line which, when it dried, meant the line was stiff enough to feed through the side-side holes and also look under tension (ish). I'll finish the head rails next. Keep smiling.
  8. I then attached the various ship side fittings - scuppers, ventilator scuttles and oar ports. I used box wood to match the side...still haven't mastered the brass blackening process; it still seems to rub off with undue ease....so a combination of watered paint and partially blackened fittings. Next step was to fit the anchor linings which wasn't as easy as it should have been largely because of the slight misalignment of gunwale and the mizzen channel - the gap was too large, in addition the channel was too close (by 2mm) to No 1 gunport as a consequence of jiggling to ensure the various cha
  9. An update. I persevered with the various channels and deadeye block fitting and before long they were completed. The smaller 3mm deadeyes blocks do rattle in the slots which made securing awkward, I needed a tiny piece of blu-tack to hold them whilst tying the note; once under tension they held their place. I also needed to be careful to not to try and force the 5mm deadeyes into the slots in too hard a fashion, unfortunately I did so on one occasion, rushing and not adjusting the size of the strap and the inevitable happened - the channel broke away from the ships side! Repairs were comple
  10. I inserted four of the eyebolts and attached the slide to the base and attached the rear wheels. The carronade sits on the central spigot allowing rotation whilst elevation is controlled by brass elevation screw - I have yet to fit the handle. I will then work the front of the carronade and insert the rest of the eyebolts. Progress is maintained - 5 of the 8 made so far. P
  11. Tying blocks is a little repetitive so for variety, I cracked on with the carronades. As I mentioned above the instructions and supplied parts didn't align, however Jason forwarded to me a revised set (see below) which helped clear up the confusion. The assembly is a little fiddly but reasonably straight forward. https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=610306 I followed the sequence in the attachment and the product (not complete) looks good. Remember to drill out the brass holes with a 1mm drill - the fittings are tight and easily jam
  12. A couple of weeks since the last post so time for an update. progress has been slow but steady...we inch forward! I completed the chain links on both sides of the hull and then inserted the deadeye blocks into the strops - not all fitted well as can be seen. I then soldered (actually my son did) the eyes closed. The choice was how to attach the block to the upper chain links. The instructions direct the use of 0.5mm wire; I tried this but could not get a uniform line, the all had very slight kinks, were uneven in shape and were all of differing lengths - marginal but appare
  13. Hi Jason. Thank you for the advice - I will await the response from the guys at Caldercraft. I think I have your very nice brass carronades - they are certainly different to the ones shown in Rob and Ray's build blogs - the threaded screw is well made and fits beautifully. On the underside of the barrel, in the middle, is a single hole, this indicates to me there should be a some sort of hinge that could then connect onto the gun base via the D shaped trunnion brackets and a short axle piece of brass wire (1mm). Unfortunately the small ring with a short leg is too small to fit into the und
  14. Quick update. Jason - thank you for your advice on the mizzen mast. I am going to adjust the position of the Skylight aft very slightly (will infill the deck planking) to open up a little more space for the pin rail; I think there is room for the wheel. I need space to be able to secure the rigging and retain the visual proportions. I don’t have any extensive tools other than a drill, vice and a few sharp modelling knives! If I decide to do another I might invest in a couple time saving devices - I’ll come back for guidance in due course! The ladder will do. I hav
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