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Maury S

NRG Member
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Posts posted by Maury S

  1. A lot more work over the last week.  Spiling and planking is completed.  The sternpost was installed and planks faired.  Now for the insides.  The spacers prevent the bulkheads from being snapped-off so they must be removed.  I drilled a series of holes in the spacers so the isopropyl alcohol could penetrate better.  a couple of applications and they slid right out.  I also drilled the top of the bulkhead to speed the filing of the tabs.  I used a triangular file since it seemed to work faster.  A couple of the frames needed a glue touch-up, but nothing serious.  Working from the middle to the ends, I filed the tabs and snapped the bulkheads out.  The fairing was delicate.  I used a rotary head to take down the frames near the wales and then a cut-off wheel to pare down the keelson.  I've rough sanded (120 grit) and will check thickness before going further.  I think a coat of pre-sanding conditioner is due.  The joints between planks and the treenail heads will be wood putty (see my Echo Section post regarding treenails).  I've got to prevent the putty from staining the wood planks so I may have to get a light coat of poly applied.  Sanding down the tops of the frames will be a challenge.  Any suggestions on how to do that without snapping the little bones?

    Maury

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  2. One strake at a time...lots of other committments so progress has been slow.  Fourth strakes installed, spiling the fifth.  I'm using stiff card stock and lining out with a compass. Cut along the line by hand, transfer to a wood plank and cut on the scroll saw.   Match up with 120 grit sanding (this is the stage shown in the photo), then take tick-strip measurements at each frame and mark from the matched edge.  Connect using a ships curve, cut to the line with a chisel and sand to fair.  Three minutes in the microwave (wrapped in a soaking-wet paper towel) gives plenty of flex.  I re-soak the forward part and bend with a hot iron to get a "perfect" fit.  Lots of practice to do it right, but once you do it this way, you'll probably never go back to edge-bending.

    Maury

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  3. Thanks for the comments.  Every bit helps.  Lining out for the rest of the strakes.  Two bands divided by a thread to see how fair the line is (credit David Antscherl ).  The first attempt at the next strake had me cutting it a bit too thin in one spot...back to the scroll saw with a finer blade. This one has a big twist in it as well and takes care to align properly.  

    Maury

     

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  4. Chuck, I was wondering where it went...

    I spiled the top (box wood) strakes, cooked them in the microwave (in a paper towel soaked with water), bent the fore ends around a bottle cap, dried them and installed them along the bulkheads.  PROBLEM.  I guess the pressure of me holding the stbd strake in place while the CA dried twisted the whlole boat a bit...discovered it after the port strake was installed.  I removed both strakes and built some supports to keep the frame stable (no twist) on the building board and carefully re-installed both planks 3 - 4 frames on a side worling back from the stem.  Everything came out fine this time.

    Chuck, I was going to try your clear-tape method to layout the planks and could not find it at the local art / hobby store nor on the internet.  Do you recall the manufacturer (?Scotch?) and where you bought it?

    Maury

     

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