themadchemist

Amazed as always.
I'm with Augie, on your better then expected in that deck fit.
You must be expecting better then perfect....um ....oh excuse me.... I forgot who I was talking to.
 
Innovation and perfection, the two hallmarks of a popeye build.
 
Nice engine, is that a Hemi or a SOHC 427? The SOHC's aren't a common piece - I remember buying a model years ago just for that engine. The 63' split window 'vette I was modifying got powered by FORD
 
So where's this other site. I've been stuck in a rut for weeks and I'm eyeballing that B17 or Z28 on my shelf as maybe a way to get the blood flowing again.
It seemed to have worked for you and I've never been stirred wrong by the spinach powered ship builder yet.

Hey guys, I'm really sorry for not responding properly lately! Life's been hectic and to make a long story short I haven't had the energy to put into the Vasa model. It's nothing bad happening, just that there's been a lot of other everyday things to focus on. I can't build without energy and passion, so it had to wait; I've had the itch to continue all along though, and now it's time to do that.
 
I'm now planning for the channel construction for the main mast. Here's reference I took earlier:
 



 
Off topic: here's a picture showing how wonky these ships were. I love that look. 
 

 
 
Now to continue on those channels.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amazed as always.
I'm with Augie, on your better then expected in that deck fit.
You must be expecting better then perfect....um ....oh excuse me.... I forgot who I was talking to.
 
Innovation and perfection, the two hallmarks of a popeye build.
 
Nice engine, is that a Hemi or a SOHC 427? The SOHC's aren't a common piece - I remember buying a model years ago just for that engine. The 63' split window 'vette I was modifying got powered by FORD
 
So where's this other site. I've been stuck in a rut for weeks and I'm eyeballing that B17 or Z28 on my shelf as maybe a way to get the blood flowing again.
It seemed to have worked for you and I've never been stirred wrong by the spinach powered ship builder yet.

Hey all, I'm renovating an old cabbin so there's only a small update. I finished the deadeyes for the mainmast:
 
 

 
/Matti

That's common I think. It's tough to go from pre-formed styrene parts to (as a friend put it) "a box of sticks".
and many of us started with plastic models, typically modifying them.
Building a 68' mustang like my first car, was what got me thinking about the step up to wood and I still have a Z28 and B-17 on the shelve that will be fun projects. I mistakenly looked down on plastic kits when I first started building, then I saw what some people here were achieving with plastic and card.
I've never looked down on any type of medium, after that. Evergreen styrene has many uses on even a wooden kit, as does card stock.
Check out Dee Dee's use of dollar bills to form mast hoops and you soon start seeing everything as potential building material.
  
I remember showing a friend my build and they mentioned "oh that looks fun", then I opened the box and got the above reply.
They just couldn't believe that most everything came as rough timber and required building/making/shaping every piece by hand.
I also remember a "but they're all straight pieces, how do you make the curvy pieces" that is when explaining this hobby lost them.
This hobby seems to draw a higher developed mind that is seeking something real and tactile, you know the kind of real that isn't on "reality" TV.
The type of people that tend to not see TV as a hobby but a diversion. Personally next year will mark my first decade without TV and yet I just found this hobby less than 2 years ago. It has changed my life. I think I'd only go back to TV if there was a model ship building channel
Someone call discovery channel   Just Kidding.
It's almost strange the satisfaction one gets when, as you mentioned when you made the bitts and said
"I was ridiculously pleased with myself when I finished my first piece of pin-rail. It was about as perfect as I could have hoped for"
 
That feeling has never stopped for me since I started building and when you consider all the types of ships, you know Life just won't be long enough to get to everything we want to achieve. I always revel when I see others cross this bridge into the pleasures of this hobby.
Its a dying art-form that strangely the internet has made more accessible to us usually land locked builders.
 
The community of MSW, can never be given too much credit for their advancement of this hobby. Together we all learn more and as with any activity, the human aspect of belonging to a support group makes the undoable seem not so daunting. 
 
I'm not saying ship builders are smarter or better, just a bit more eccentric in their tastes towards what is fun.
 
I'm glad you received a quick reply from constructo. Waiting forever is isn't any fun.

as for the hole in the deck........I marked off the area.   when I see something more conclusive,  it will dictate how large it is. 
     it certainly can't be any wider.......that I am sure of.  there will be some net reels located in front of it.
 

 

 
the outer fore deck/bulkhead beam was cemented into place.......knees were used here as well
 

 
did some fancy measuring to trace out the bulkhead wall
 

 
after some trimming and dry fits,  it was done.  above the bulwarks,  I did not go all the way to the edge.......there are curved inserts that have to go there,.
 

 
an overall shot.....
 

 
here it shows how the main deck platform juts out from under the bulkhead.   lower support tabs will be here
 

 
a shot of the open cavity
 

yes Sjors.......it's for that plastic build I'm doing for another site.   don't ask for another picture........this is a ship site
remember.....CHOO>>>>>>>>>CHOO! :D :D
 
this should make you very happy.........what else can one do,  when his computer is on the lamb!
 
 
so.......Larry's necro job is going as good as I suspected it would......but with one small setback.   I don't have a copy of the plans in front of me........one set is in my computer......the other one is on a memory stick.  I can't access either one of them.
      there is to be a net chute in the transom........as my memory goes,  it sits just above the waterline.  I used a bit of logic to deduce that there must be an opening in the deck........at a angle.   I had cleaned up the stern transom posts,  and remove the last bits of the planks I ripped off.
 

 
I took a wild guess at how wide the opening is in the transom,  marked it,  and cut down the sides.
 

 
with my cordless drill,  I two pilot holes for my keyhole saw.......I even took that center tang out of there.......cut ata downward angle.  It won't be needed.
 

 
then the opening was cleaned up,  making sure the sides were square
 

 
all of the flat areas along the sides of where the deck platform is to be,  were either cut down or sanded flush woth the deck beams.  I sitll need to put in the rest of them.
 

 
I did a little sanding along the bow walls....the excess posts were cut off.   there is a little room still for adjustments.....once the fore deck platform is on....... it's for keeps.
 

 
to strengthen all the beam joints,   I'm going to install knees
 

 

 
I know it's a bit early for this.......but I began to cut and trim the main deck platforms.   this is the starboard side,  all notched and ready for about um-teen dry fits.  a small section of the front area has been cut off.   these were done during the concept of the Holiday Harbor build.......this part is not needed,  but I left enough so I can add bottom locator tabs for the bulkhead.
 

 
this is what it looks like after the um-teen dry fits.   you might notice the line drawn on it........that is supposed to be cut off,  but I'm leaving it as a bit of insurance for a snug fit.
 

 
the fit came out better than I expected
 

thanks Keith.......the bow is probably the worst place to clamp.  I don't know how many time,  clamps came flying off of there on some of my other builds
 
I'm doing the Jukebox for another site......I keep promising them I'd do a plastic build.   not too many wood builders on there.   here is an example of the work I'm doing on it.
 

 
I haven't done one of these in sooooo long......currently working on it as well.
 
I have more progress to show,  but my computer went down.  I ended up having to dump XP,  and am now running Vista.   I'm in the process of getting all my stuff back in order........the ability to post pictures is one of them.   I see I'll have to get used to the new function     I'm going to HAVE to print these plans........all the while I was doing what I did,  I couldn't look at them,  because they were in......you guessed it........my computer.   so I went from memory....I think I did OK though.
 
chills........from what?......the ripping......sawing......and cutting?   it's good that I only need to do this in the beginning phases.  why,  when I get done,  you won't even know the boat  ...........or....maybe,  you will   {devil's horns starting to show}

WOW, I really like that jig for clamping the bulwarks at the stem. That is SUCH a hard place to clamp. NICE!
 
Nice to see sawdust again, but what happened to the Jukebox Ford? Is it now in limbo due to your necromancy.
 
I think I just got chill bumps thinking just how weirdly great this all will get as it progresses.

Hello to all who are following this build -
 
It has been a while since my last posting.  Summertime had a lot to do with it, but I also took some time away to work on a short-term and time critical project.  So here is a little diversion from this build.  It may merit a separate file, but as you will see later on, it is incomplete.
 
I was asked to restore a  presentation model of a modern container ship.  The CMA-CGM Vivaldi was built by Hyundai Samho Heavy Industries Co., Ltd. in their Makpo Shipyard in South Korea.   Launched in December, 2004 she was 334 meters LOA with a breadth of 42.3 m (just under 1100 ft LOA, 140 ft breadth).  Its carrying capacity was not listed on the dimensions plaque on the model, but it is huge.  Here she is in a photo from the company website of CMA-CMG Shipping, which owns and operates her as part of one of the world’s largest fleets of container ships.
 
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The model was likely built in the same shipyard as a gift to thank CMA-CGM for the contract and was presented at the time of launch.  It is built to the small scale of 1:200, but the model is still 5 ½ feet long.  Given that the price for the ship was in the millions of dollars, it is not surprising that a good deal of care went into the construction of this presentation model. 
 
It was probably kept in one of their offices, perhaps in their headquarters in Marseille, for the last decade but then was presented in turn to a financing company in Stamford, Connecticut.  It was during the delivery of the model that things went bad.
 
Here is the crate that it came in.  You can see that although there is no obvious damage to the box itself, one of the bottom cleats is missing. 
 
2
 
I was called in when the box was opened and it was found that one of the glass panels of the case was cracked and there was some damage to the model. My first overall impression was that this was not going to be a hard job.  Some of the containers had been detached from their mountings and were tipped over, but they were still on deck and in a line.  The superstructure was in place and there was no evident damage to the hull.
 
3
 
Closer examination revealed that the devil had been playing in the details.  A large number of small pieces were lying on the blue felt base and some had even become trapped in the channel that the glass case sat in.  Fortunately many of them, including some quite complex assemblies, appeared undamaged like the one in the center of the photo.
 
4
 
 
A repair proposal was discussed, a fee agreed to, and work began with the recovery and conservation of any detached parts.  Once the wrapping of clear plastic was removed the impact point could be seen.  It was clear that there had been one sharp blow which had chipped and cracked the glass panel, but without separating it from the rest of the case. 
 
Unfortunately, this is exactly the kind of impact that cyano glue does not like.  With the help of JerseyCityFrankie the glass cover was removed and all of the loose parts were carefully collected.  The detached container units were numbered from the bow to the stern on sticky notes and set aside.  The grey railing units could not be immediately identified, but they were put into one container for later study.  All of the smaller parts such as the lifeboats, ladders, white railings, and various unknown pieces were put in another.
 
8
9
 
Now the full extent of the damage could be seen and assessed.  Along the edges of the hull most of the railings and stanchions were broken off, leaving unpainted spots showing where they had been attached.  At the stern there was additional damage where the railings and ladders had been crushed and even some pieces of the rigid styrene components had been broken.  When everything that was loose had been removed the deck was almost nude other than two container units at the bow that had somehow managed to remain in place.  This was packed up in bubble wrap and taken back to the studio in Brooklyn, NY.
 
12
 
The superstructure which had initially appeared to be generally sound was found to have suffered the most damage.  In additional to losing both lifeboats, most of the railing on the aft face was gone, as were numerous small parts for the lifeboat cranes.  All of the various radars and antennas on the topmost level were missing.  Most significantly, the starboard bridge wing was broken off almost completely. 
 
13
 
Although the proper locations of many of the pieces could be deduced from what they were, there were a great deal more that could have gone anywhere.  Fortunately the company had a second presentation model of the same ship, the Vivaldi.  A series of photographs were taken of the other model to guide the restoration.
 
Here is the bow, showing the white lookout mast which had been detached on the damaged model.  The ladder and safety cage had been separated and crushed, but now I could see how they had to be repaired.
 
14
 
Those gray railing units turned out to be catwalks that fit between the container units.  They sat on top of U-shaped pieces that supported the containers.  Photoetched ladders gave access to upper catwalks which were bordered by photoetched brass railings.  3-bar railings edged the deck all along the sides of the ship.
 
15a
 
The superstructure had 8 deck levels with a full array of electronic equipment on top.
 
16
 
This area was going to be the most challenging, with radars and antenna that were all made up of very small parts that were quite similar to each other.  The photographs that I was sent were not completely helpful in specifying what went where.  Fortunately, using my Photoshop program I could take the image provided and enlarge it, remove the color, and play with the brightness and contrast until I could see almost all of the details.
 
17
18
 
Now that I had the undamaged model as a guide I could start the actual repairs.  The first thing was to reassemble all of the catwalks.  Some were in pretty good shape, but others had been mauled, with most of the parts separated, some of the plastic parts broken off, and the photoetched brass rails badly bent.  Here is one of the catwalks with all its pieces and a second one after restoration.  There were 21 of these in all, which took up about half of the total restoration time.
 
19
 
Now for the incomplete part -
 
The next several weeks were spent doing the restoration.  I took construction photos as I went, as usual, but had not gotten around to downloading them. [i know you can see the problem coming . . . ]  Soon after I took the last photograph, my daughter and her two boys came over.  One is the newborn, the other 2 years old.  While I was doting on the young one, the other found the camera.  He likes to push buttons.  Enough said. 
 
Let me describe what I did, and I hope you can follow along using photos of the completed repair.
 
All of the least damaged catwalks were put back together.  Since there were small variations in how the bases had broken off of the hull I could locate about two thirds in their original positions, fitting them together like a jigsaw puzzle.  They were numbered and set aside.  One by one the rest were repaired until there were only two left, which were severely bent, with missing parts.  Some replacement parts were fabricated from bent wire, and others from brass shim.  Missing ladders were replaced with similar ones from the spares box.
 
21
 
Starting at the bow and working aft the containers and catwalks were glued to the cleaned up hull.  The containers sit on the corners of the catwalk bases and on a square stanchion between the forward and aft bases located on both edges of the deck.  This gives six attachment points for the double wide containers and four each for the single wide ones.  These also broke off irregularly.  Although each container unit was numbered when it was removed, several ones were out of order, and I had not recorded the orientation of the unit.  Each one was test fit to the proposed location and the irregularities let me confirm the original locations.
 
21a
 
The superstructure was the biggest challenge.  I first relocated the lifeboats and repaired their cranes.  Railings which were bent were carefully bent back and glued.  Some that had been detached were too badly bent to repair.  I had 3-bar railing of the right size in my spares box, but the rails were a bit thinner than those on the model.  I used them to replace the railings that would not be seen easily between the aft face of the superstructure and the container unit behind it.  Then I cannibalized the model railings from that area to replace railings in more obvious locations.
 
22
 
The photos that I miss most are those of the repair of the starboard bridge wing.  Here the impact had broken the brittle styrene that made up the bridge deck and the angled and pierced supports on the fore and aft faces.  The detached pieces had kicked around and were now mostly unusable shards.  I first carefully cut the damaged section away in a straight line across the deck with a miniature keyhole saw.  A piece of similarly thick styrene was cut to fit and glued in and the joint sanded smooth.  Artists acrylic paints were mixed to match the green of the deck  The shape of the aft diagonal support piece was traced from the existing one on the port side and cut out, fitted and finished. It was spray painted gloss white before being installed.  The end cap was similarly fitted.  All joints were cleaned up and touch-up painted.
 
22a
 
Using the photographs of the undamaged model the fittings and fixtures on the upper electronics decks on top of the wheelhouse were located.  Antennas, radars, and lightning rods were all glued in with cyano.  Nothing special here, just a delicate touch and perseverence.
 
23
 
Final small detail parts were installed and all of the spots where paint was chipped or missing were touched up and the model was carefully examined to find bent railings and other defects.  I know that I got almost all of them, but I also know that a few got bye, but I'm not telling where. 
 
A new glass case was ordered and delivered from a local custom glass shop.  So here is the completed model ready for delivery to the customer.  It was driven back to Stamford, CT, with a nervous moment for every pothole and road repair that I couldn't avoid.  It survived completely intact and was installed in the office to gratifying compliments from the customer.
 
24
 
Hope you enjoyed the divertimento.  Getting back to the QAR now.  A new build log post soon.
 
Be well
 
Dan
 
 
 

the jig was quite simple really.......two pieces of planking, CA'd together length-wise, with a piece of square stock cemented in one end as a pressure point. the port side panel was cemented in place. the jig did it's job splendidly!
 

 

 
this was allowed to dry before the starboard side panel was cemented in place. the starboard side was fitted and glued in place.......the jig held the panels down just as I wanted it to. it left hardly a gap there at all
 

 

 

 
jeepers! looking through the clamps, you can get a good idea of how flat the bow has become. there was a minor cut to my left thumb......the blood on the starboard panel is mine....not Larry's. even the admiral looked at it......she said....."you'll live!" I had to wait for all this to dry, so I could remove the clamps and take these last pictures. the Boulogne was kind enough to stand in for me, so I can show you the transformation that has taken place so far.
 

 

 
 
ha..ha..ha..ha..ha! to cut.......to rip! all in the world of necromancy is good!

there is to be an upper bow deck, but it needs to be further back.......say, about one rib. there is to be a bulkhead there, and so I will need to wall it off. the order of the deck platforming will be: the main deck, the bulkhead, and then the fore deck will cap it all off. the main deck will require deck beams I notched the one that will support the bulkhead, and cemented it in place. I still need to do the rest, but not until I alter the stern.
 

 
in my planning.....it was quite obvious that the curvature of the stern needed to be flattened out, as well as being notched at the bulkhead line {this little area needs to be flattened as well}. how to do it........how to do it <ponder> I know....I will use the belt sander! out to the garage.....set the belt sander on it's back, locked on......and off I went! I wasn't concerned with the stern transom, as it's getting altered anyway. after some frequent checks......I think it's in the ballpark
 

 
the bulkhead is to be defined at this point......if you look where the posts are cemented, you can see where I notched the bulwarks. the aim here is to flatten out the bow and make the rise for the bulkhead.....the curve has to go!
 

 
here is a shot of the overall bulwark layout.....I left room for a little more sanding. I have to measure the height at the transom to make sure both sides are even.
 

 
more posts were added to the bow section. instead of planking these areas, I will make full panels for them.
 

 
the start of making the side panels
 

 
when the posts were dry, the panels were dry fitted to see what I would need to do next.
 

 

 

 
you can see that I also added a second deck beam to the main deck area. the port side bow panel was cut to shape......the height of the bulkhead post, tapered to around 4mm at the bow stem. this will leave a very slight up sweep to the bow....it will hardly be noticeable. this was mimicked on the starboard side panel, which was left a tad longer, to lap over the port side and create the tip of the bow. I need to make a jig for the tip of the bow, to hold the two panels together when I cement them in place.

Hum, for some reason I'm not receiving email notices of this logs updates. I just unfollowed and then reclicked follow. Maybe that will help.
 
I agree with the above. Your Research and sharing of it deserves much respect. Thanks for your efforts in sharing.
 
Thanks to Anthony also for some great pictures of the Terror's previous life.

sitting at my computer......staring at the screen......this 'not knowing what to do next' is killing me. I look over at the tables, to the mess....the reminiscences of where I had left off.....with no breadcrumbs left for me to pick it back up. I decided to pick up a plastic car model to help jump start me....a pro modified drag model of the Jukebox Ford. I got to what I feel is the mid point of the build, and the thoughts began to cloud my mind again. it brought me back to the movie I saw about the boat......I already had a copy of the Billing's plans for it. I went back online to the Billing's site in Danmark {this was quicker than to access the PDF I have of the plans}, and looked up the plans again. I was amazed to find that these plans are different than the ones I have.......two sets of plans??? I down loaded them.
 
the shape of the hull.......the whole concept.......makes it so doable taking stock of the situation here:
 
the hull dubbed Moe is in the hallway, the hull planking isn't even finished. this is the one that is made with the real good plywood. it would be a shame to modify this one. to give it a subject name now.....I will christen this one the 'Christmas tree boat' {I'll give it a snappier name later} no pictures for this one of late.
 
the hull dubbed Curly has been residing in the garage since late spring, along with the Boulogne Etaples. the hull has gotten a sanding and a coat of filler....now it waits for the second sanding.

 

the deck platforms have already been installed....the layout somewhat planned. to give this one a subject name now......I will christen this one 'the Jingle Belle' a caroler's boat. you know......a bunch of carolers on the deck, singing.....getting splashed with sea spray.......should be a hoot of a build this one so far into it's being......nawww.....can't do it to this one either.
 
then there is the hull dubbed Larry. sadly, I can think of no third subject for this hull. I had thought up a skater's rink theme......but a wise sage brought me to my senses. yes.....logic dictates, that you can't skate on a rolling boat, not unless your THAT good the hull is fully planked and has been sanded....it does need a little filler, but the hull is quite smooth the way it stands at the moment. I had planned to remove all the excess raised ribs at the bow and flatten the entire deck out....from the bow to the stern. to do what I need to do, in this new venture, I wouldn't need to do anything like that.......just a nip and tuck at the bow and stern.
 
........and so it came to be, that the hull dubbed Larry, was to undergo some rather aggressive necromancy......origami of the wooden kind. there are three major changes that must occur, for the hull to become a suitable recipient, of such an advantageous build. let the game begin

I agree on setting the masts first.
As I stopped looking at directions over a years ago, I tend to feel that one should progress in the best manner so that your kind of working your way out. Deciding which pieces are next based on what they will obstruct and what obstructs them. I would think this would be even more important a factor on a square rig build.
 
Always remember, you can judge the quality of builder by the size of their scrap box(s). You will always be your own worst critic also. Also never underestimate the VAST difference that a finish can have on that raw wood . That's one of the reasons I love tung oil.
 
Looking at your deck filled, you should feel proud. I think you've done a Superb job. The most important part is the knowledge that you gained.
 
I guess the Amazon and MicroMark stock purchases are proof that you've decided this hobby's a keeper.
 
On the glue issue, do you use CA or PVA. For PVA I suggest getting a syringe. If you don't have access just PM me as the Admiral work in an OR and they trash all unused material that's open, due to sterile protocol. 

A VIEW FROM HMS TERROR’S LOWER DECK
 

Starboard cabin arrangement HMS Terror, 1845 (Note: cabin of Thomas Johnson open for debate).
 
In late May I began a new sub-project of my build - creating an accurate plan of HMS Terror’s lower deck. I thought the project would take a few weeks at most, but creating this plan turned out to be a three month ordeal requiring minute scrutiny of multiple plans and significant research on mid-19th century deck furniture and fittings. The task was made easier by Peter Carney and William Battersby who kindly assisted me with translating some annotations on the plans.  

The difficulty in this project stems from the multiple versions of plans for HMS Terror, some of which are heavily annotated. There are three versions of just the Terror’s lower deck plans, including: 1) the initial 1813 lower deck plan (ZAZ5616), 2)  the 1839 plan which shows both HMS Terror and Erebus, and 3) the 1836 plan, which was modified extensively in 1845 (ZAZ5676). In addition, critical information was gleaned from the 1839 midships section plan (ZAZ5678).

I began by tracing the 1836 plan, and spent nearly a month interpreting the faint 1845 annotations which outline changes to the position of the cabins and a system of hatches and scuttles to accommodate the new engine room in the hold. I then carefully added information on deck furniture from the 1839  plan, and structural details from the 1813 plans. Finally, I compared the new plans to the inboard profile plans I previously created to ensure the accuracy of both (this indicated that some changes were needed on the inboard profile plans). 

I also created a series of detailed elevation plans for the crew accommodations and various fittings, some of which I will post over the coming weeks. HMS Investigator plans were very useful in this regard, as they provide important details that are not shown on the Erebus and Terror plans.  Additionally, I found critical information on the appearance and construction of deck furniture from researching photos from HMS Unicorn, HMS Trincomalee, and HMS Warrior. 

Following research outlined in previous blog posts, I assume that most of HMS Terror’s 1845 fittings conformed to specifications outlined on the 1839 Terror and Erebus plans. Parry’s rationale for identically outfitting polar expeditions notwithstanding, I believe the Admiralty learned important lessons from the near- disastrous 1836 Back expedition (see a description of the damage to the ship here), and decided that critical structural improvements were necessary for all arctic bomb-discovery vessels. Thus, the 1839 plans are titled “Terror and Erebus as Fitted” because both ships were meant to be outfitted to precisely the same standards. These new systems proved themselves in the highly successful antarctic expedition, and by the time they sailed north in 1845, further improvements meant that both ships represented the state of the art in nautical science. 

While the project took far longer than anticipated, I greatly enjoyed producing these plans, as they provide insights into what the long winters in the ice were like for Crozier and his crew, nearly 170 years ago.  Indeed, the ability to put a name to a specific cabin was a moving revelation; for example, Lieutenant Irving's description  of the “dreadful puffings and screamings” of the locomotive engine (Bell 1881: 117) takes on new meaning when one realizes his cabin was almost directly above it! 

References:

Bell, Benjamin
1881 Lieut. John Irving, R.N. of H.M.S. "Terror" in Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition to the Arctic Regions: A Memorial Sketch With Letters. D. Douglas, Edinburgh.
 

Lower Deck, HMS Terror, 1845 (note the presence of the large central sail bin on Terror, needed
to accommodate the creation of the engine room in the orlop deck and hold).
 

Port cabin arrangement, HMS Terror, 1845 (Note: cabin of John Lane open for debate).
 

Captain's cabin, HMS Terror, 1845, facing aft (note the panels covering the central propeller well and the drawers below).
 

Lieutenant John Irving's cabin (the line is station 8), facing port (note the iron knee, bookshelves, and folding table).

Hello E&T.
had a day out at Topsham today. 
Managed a few photos of there ship.
Photos are not good as exhibit is behind glass enclosure.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The Dock she was built at. Photo of a diorama of Topsham.

 

 
Hoping these will be of some use to you. If not please message me to remove them.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Yesterday I worked on the cabins, so here are a couple of pictures of that process.  I was worried that they would look very bad based on what I started with, but I think they ended up turning out alright, and will look better after finishing.
 

 
For the port holes in the cabins, I used some parchment paper and traced the plans, then held them to the side of the cabins and used a punch to set the center point of the holes for drilling.
 

 
The more I looked at the plans problem mentioned in my prior post, the more I began to think that there are probably no plans missing, Constructo just expects you to 'figure it out' without proper detail diagrams.  I also came to realize, that for these parts (bitts, pin racks), if the heights of the cross pieces weren't exactly right, nobody would ever know, so I traced them out as best I could from the plan views I had, and got to work.
 
The plans/instructions give no indication of what size hole to use for the pin racks, so I measure the belaying pins at their thickest point with calipers, and then used a slightly larger sized drill (1.7mm).
 
I was ridiculously pleased with myself when I finished my first piece of pin-rail.  It was about as perfect as I could have hoped for (pictured here next to the bitts that wasn't quite so perfect, but is ok).
 

 
My smugness ended abruptly after coming back from a dinner break, looking at the parts remaining to assemble the rest of the rack, and realizing that I'd used the wrong piece (too long) between the uprights.  Doh.  Set my pretty little pin rack section off to the side and started over. 
 
The completed pin racks didn't come out perfect, but I think they are good enough for this first run.
 
Here everything up to this point is set onto the deck in the approximate final locations.  Nothing is glued.
 

 
Pretty happy with how things are looking.  Once varnished, should fit right in.
 
Things I've learned over the last couple days:
 
- I should have purchased stock in Micro Mark (and Amazon) the day I bought this kit.
- I ordered a Dremel drill-press/work station that will be here tomorrow or Friday.  It would have been *really* helpful for the pin racks, I think I ruined about 5 pieces trying to get the holes drilled acceptably.
- I need to find a source for some scrap wood to make jigs and crap (and a building board in the future), and to drill into instead of using a perfectly good basswood block.
- The flexi-shaft attachment thingie for the Dremel is the best bleeping thing.  How did I ever use a Dremel tool without one of these?
- One skill that has remained intact after 25+ years of not touching a model; I'm still really good at using too much glue and getting it all over everything.
- Buying drill bits from #80 to #60, and from 1mm to 2mm (in .05 and .1mm increments) was a very good thing.  Should have ordered metric bits from 2mm up also, those are on order.
 
Looking a number of steps ahead, the instructions have the pin racks and other pieces set onto the deck and glued in place permanently prior to setting the masts.  It seems to me that it would be much easier to set the deck stuff in place with the masts set, than it would be to set the masts with all that stuff in the way.  Thoughts on that?  Advice welcomed.
 
Oh yea, the bitts (that's what the instructions call it anyway) where the bowsprit will mount - should it be vertical in relation to the deck, or vertical in relation to the waterline when it is mounted?  The deck has an upward sweep in that area, which would give it a slight backwards slant if mounted vertical to the deck.
 
Thanks for visiting, and please feel free to throw advice, comments, or whatever else my way.

First off, Keith, that book is fantastic.  Thanks again!
 
It seems that I've run into a bit of a stumbling block.  I'm at a point in the instructions where I'm building deck furniture (fittings?) and the instructions say - "Cut out the bitts no. 71 and make the recesses as shown in the centreline plan."
 
The only problem is, that as far as I can tell, I don't have a centreline plan.  I could try to put these together from the pictures in the book, but without decent measurements I am not sure how well that will work.  I don't have much extra of the wood sizes used for these pieces for do-overs either.
 
I've sent an email to the email address I found elsewhere on the forums to a guy at Constructo (diset), but I understand they take a while to respond.  I'm not sure if I'm missing plans, or if they really expect me to figure the recesses out from a single overhead deck plan that doesn't actually show the recess depths or heights.
 
I have finished up both cabins, and they came out ok, if nothing special.
 
There are other little bits I can continue to work on, as these pieces can be placed later (but must go in before rigging starts, as it ties off to them).
 
In other news, my "30 day back-order" on the AVS shipped later on the same day I placed it, and the website now shows that kit available instead of back-ordered.  So I guess I have an AVS in the mail about a month sooner than I expected.

In looking up the terms you present here, I've discovered 'Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners'....I wish I'd seen that before. Still trying to determine what tack to take going forward.

Thanks Keith, I'm downloading that book now.  Luckily I don't need to read it right now, as they throttle free accounts to old-school modem speeds.
 
Thanks for the kind words Alistair.  Your build of the AVS was one of the ones I went through and will reference when I get to this a couple months from now, and I'm following your Fly build as well, it's looking great so far.

Very nice work on Carmen Brian and I can definitely recommend the AVS - a great choice you have made there, she builds into a wonderful model.

...and you forgot
 
- wont be building this one to see if you like the hobby
 
It's funny, but as I read your list of requirements, I was going to suggest the exact boat you picked. I've only been at this hobby for 2 years this Nov. and I never expected to become so immersed in it. I'm in the process now of working on a shop more suited to making sawdust, as I do most at my desk now and that limits so much. I've recently been spending hobby budget on reference material, so if there a topic of interest, let me know and possibly I could direct you towards some of the best. Petersson's book on fore and aft rigging is a must, It will come in handy on this build also. Its nearly all diagrams and available for download.

Here:
http://www.libramar.net/news/rigging_period_ship_models_a_step_by_step_guide_to_the_intricacies_of_the_square_rig/2009-11-05-48

examples from petersson


Congrat's on the new acquisition and on finding a place in an interesting hobby.

Thanks Keith
 
I was an Industrial Electrician by trade and usually did troubleshooting to keeps things running, but once in a while had to run a lot of conduit, usually for new equipment.  I'd scope it out for a while and usually found the best way to do it, not always the first instinct. If you pay attention and think things over, the answer will eventually come.
 
That's helping me slow down now and dry fit everything and see what it's going to look like.

No, I think they finally hit 90 a week or two ago. I'm 50 miles north of Indy.               But I'm a Bears fan.
 
I tried chemistry once. I got a chemistry set for xmas when I was a kid. One night when everyone was gone, I was experimenting with different mixtures and made one with sulfur.  Heated it up, and needless to say, when Mom got home, the chemistry set was no more.  Would I have been somewhat of an analytical chemist then.