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JerryTodd

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  1. JerryTodd
    I took down the print of Constellation at Naples in 1856 by Thomas deSimone to take better pictures and see where some details were I want to add to the hull, as this portrait is what I'm basing my model on. What caught my eye were the deadeyes and lanyards on the shrouds (topmast shrouds too), or actually, the lack of deadeyes and lanyards. (remember to click a pic to see it full size) I always wrote this off as deSimone just leaving out some details, like the lack of ratlines on the starboard side, or the thimbles on that side. I planned on doing deadeyes and lanyards as the ship has now, and in 1914 But the more I look, the more I think they aren't deadeyes and lanyards at all. deSimone paints deadeyes and lanyards on ships in other portraits, at least a more obvious impression of them, but never on Constellation and then in photos... The more I look, the more convinced I get that she had screws for her shrouds, lower and topmast, from the start and didn't get deadeyes and lanyards until about 1900-1901. Anyone have any ideas, or see something different?
  2. JerryTodd
    It's just a painted canvas tarp, like a painter's drop cloth you can buy today at Lowes and such. They were used in homes then as well, in the dining room, kitchen, a runner in a hallway, bedrooms, anywhere you didn't want bare floors. They were also used in army officers tentage on campaign so you didn't have to walk on damp grass in your stocking feet. I made a couple over the years; one for my wife's tent when she went reenacting with me. Her's was a basic checker with 4 inch squares in dark red and cream colors.
  3. JerryTodd
    The folks that got hold of the ship in Baltimore didn't start the rumor that it was the original frigate, modified; but they certainly ran with it; to the point of tampering with documents in the National Archives, forging some, and probably stealing some (there's several listed that can't be found such as her spar deck plan). Confronted by Chapelle, they seemed to be in a constant panic to come up with a story of the frigate becoming the sloop. In 1977, when I worked on the city's skipjack Minnie V, I was in the Constellation's shadow daily, and got to crawl around in her any time I wanted. I went to the central library and read The Constellation Question a few times. One day a tall thin fellow came to the boat asking for the skipper. When I told him he was away, he started asking me about Minnie's construction and then when he figured I was well enough versed, he asked if I knew about Constellation. I was aware of the debate. What did I think of it - I said the frame spacing was different between the two ships, and was consistent through this ship with the plan of the later, 1854, ship. That even if a section was added to lengthen her, that would not require changing the frame spacing in the entire ship for no apparent reason. What about the original material found in the ship? Eve was made from Adam's rib, that didn't make her Adam. There were a couple more thrusts by this guy wanting to have a technical argument with a kid (I'd just turned 17 at this time), that the kid parried which flustered the guy to the point that he just snorted something rude and stomped off. The Minnie's skipper came back, having run into the man on the way and gotten an earful about that insolent kid he had for a deckhand. He asked if I knew who the guy was; apparently it was Leon Polland. So, since a few bits of wood, in their minds, made the existing ship the original, I submit that since I have pieces of original live oak as the mast steps in my model of Constellation, that my ship too is the original frigate, altered to a sloop, and finally altered to a 5 foot model.
  4. JerryTodd
    HAHAHAHAHAHA!
  5. JerryTodd
    Hornblower was a midshipman on Indefatigable. He wouldn't have that coat or epaulets, and midshipmen carried a dirk (about a foot long blade) as a badge of rank), or a ship's cutlass in combat, not a sword.
  6. JerryTodd
    Out in the sweatshop today I epoxied on the starboard hammocks using a variety of weights from about the shop. Ground off the outboard edge flush with the bulwark and glued on a 3/16"x1/16" bass strip to cover the seam, on the aft, starboard quarter at least, till I couldn't stand to be in the shop any longer.
  7. JerryTodd
    Been away for a few days, so back into the sauna/shop to figure out how to translate those winch driven loops into sail control. I took pictures of the model to use to figure out how the sheets and such will need to run. This is a draft as some lines will need to run to fairleads in order to get the most efficient use of the loop's travel. The diagram also doesn't show the main topmast running backs stays or braces for the squares - yet. On the image below, the black spots are where the lines go through the deck. These places are where wood blocking and brass tubing needs to be installed for that. The first task is to work out where they actually will be with a combination of where the lines ran on the real boat combined with just holding the lines where they go on the model and making a mark. That means figuring out how I will handle the mainstay's operation. The main stay is a split-stay, port and starboard, that run forward to a block and tackle at the deck just forward of the foremast. When sailing, the windward one is taken up taught, and the lee one is loose (usually carried aft and tied to a main shroud). This way one stay is always working to support that highly raked mast. The line from the tackle leads aft so the winch can be used to make it taught. A length of flat braided line on a ring on deck was used to hold the stay taught as the line was transferred from the winch to a cleat on deck and made fast. I have to decide if I want it's thru-deck to be at the cleat, or forward at the tackle, as shown in the diagram. I'm leaning towards the thru-deck forward, as shown, but this is one of the things I'll have to jury rig to test and see what works best. The stays function on the model are mostly aesthetic as the masts are strong enough to sail without shrouds. They are also a signature detail, and an important part of the procedure when tacking a Baltimore Clipper. One set of fairleads below deck are the turning blocks for the steering cables. These are placed where they are to get the best use of the servo-arm's travel. Two of the temporary brace blocks I made for Constellation were used here. The eyes used here will be replaced with screw-eyes as in Constellation because the wire eyes I made aren't strong enough.
  8. JerryTodd
    In 1981, Pride kept three casks for water forward of the cabin trunk, surrounding the hand pump which wasn't used. I found a "whiskey barrel" on Thingiverse I though to use, but it was modeled as a barrel with wooden banding, so I subdued the bands on the 3D model, covered them with "iron bands," resized the barrel to 40mm and printed three of them. Apparently resizing them made the ends too thin and they printed perfectly except for lacking any ends. I may use these as napkin holders, but most likely I'll glue some ends into them. I also wanted the flap on top represented, and the bands a little more pronounced. Editing the original file to fix the end walls wasn't working, so I made a new 3D model from scratch, and print three of these. Getting back to the sail controls, I got some braided polyester 1.5mm line for the loops and rigged them up. For tension on the loops, I used pre-made brass blocks on springs mounted on a screw-eye on a wood block on top of the fin trunk. The video is some of my running the loops back and forth waiting for a failure. The squeaking is coming from the idler pulleys, so I'll be putting some brass bushings in them. The aft winch is perfect, the little tab of blue tape runs from end to end as it should. The other winch needs a new drum (a crack in that home-made one keeps catching the line. That channel also needs to be reprogrammed in the transmitter as it's not making it's full 3.5 revolutions. pri20220715a.mp4 One loop will control the heads'ls and squares, the other will control the main-sheet, fores'l, main-stays, and main top-mast running back-stays. There were running backs stays on the foremast, but I don't need them to operate, nor do I need the main-stays and running backs to operate either, but those main stays are a signature item on a Baltimore Clipper, and a major part of the tacking process on Pride, so I want them to operate on the model.
  9. JerryTodd
    A test run of the loops went pretty well, but I felt it needed some suspension in it, so I figured to put a pair of blocks connected by a spring to put tension in the system. A little more thinking and it seemed tensioning the two loops together like that wasn't a good idea, so I figured to mount a post on the fin trunk and hang the spring on that, keeping the two loops independent. I rigged up one loop and ran it back and forth hauling the weight of a can of spray paint up and down, and it seemed to be up to the task. I did wind up switching to a harder spring than I had started with. The tensioning blocks will use the same pulley used for the idlers, and I made some slab sides to hold them, then printed all that with a barrel I found on Thingiverse. The barrel is modeled with wood banding instead of iron, so I need to see if I can change that on the model. The circle on the end is the plug for a drain hole so it wont be filled with liquid resin trapped inside. Pride had three of these on their sides in front of the house blocking the hand-pump. There was sometimes a 55 gallon drum parked there as well, but I don't recall that being there when I was aboard - got look through the photos again. I ordered some braided line to use on the loops. What I have is too fat, and the rest is twisted line. I figure braided line will be less likely to kink than twisted line in this situation. I also need some #4 nuts and bolts for those blocks. Then it'll be time to plan all the fairleads. The main sheet is pretty straight-forward, though it won't be on an arm; I'll detail that arrangement when I get to it. The heads'ls and the squares will all on one loop, the fore and main on the other. I'm hoping the main-forestays and the running backstays will also be on the loop. I don't need them to sail the model, but they were a big part of the procedure for tacking and no one that sailed on this boat will soon forget that. I'll detail all that when I get there as well.
  10. JerryTodd
    Pride also mounted a pair of 1 pounder swivel guns on the rail, port and starboard. Examining all the pictures I could find, these guns were basically scaled down versions of the 6 pounders; all the shapes match, bands, everything. That made my job much easier, I simply scaled down the 3D model 6 pounder barrel, made the iron fitting on the cascable, and put a stock on it. I made the yoke, and posed it all in the position you'd usually see the gun in, and printed two of them. I don't intend then to function or move. The pin of one of the yokes broke trying to free it from the supports, but I'll probably trim them both and use a brass pin instead. As this is a working RC model, there's a fair chance of these items getting broken or snapped off by a line snagging, or handing in general. The nice thing about 3D printing though, is the ability to print a replacement.
  11. JerryTodd
    I sat down last night to modify Tim Bowman's Blomefield 18 pdr barrel to fit Pride, but removing the cascable ring, ER cartouche, and rearranging the barrel bands was more work than starting from scratch, so I started from scratch. Making a gun barrel in 3D is generally pretty straight forward, make a cylinder with a lot of segments and resize and move each segment to create bands, slope, etc. I had made a new carriage for Macedonian's guns and rearranged it here for Pride. Since these guns are basically static displays, I modeled them in one piece, rather than print the parts and assemble them. I think I spent about 3 hours making the barrel, and another hour redoing the carriage. I saved the STL file, started the print, and went to bed. When I got up this morning I was actually surprised to find they printed great. Cleaned them up and sat them on the boat to see how they look. I hoped the rings would be loose, like the anchor chain I made for Constellation, but it wasn't, so I'll probably replace the eye and ring with brass. Mini-Me (a photo from 1980 scaled to 1:20) and one of my "babies." When I was on Pride, I was put in charge of her guns. I was told they were my "babies" and I should take care of them. My experience with black-powder cannon was one reason I was hired, because the Yorktown Bicentennial was coming up and Pride was going to attend. Here's the real thing. This was all the rigging they had. No breaching, retrieving tackle, just training tackle. This is all the model will get as well, since it's a model of a particular boat as she was at a particular time, not how it was supposed to be.
  12. JerryTodd
    I found a nice pulley wheel, sheave, whatever it ought to be called in this context, at Thingiverse, scaled it to 1 inch diameter and printed 4 of them. I mounted them on their blocks with #8 x 1" wood screws with a brass washer under each as a bearing. I cut slots in the forward tray so it'll have 3/8" of adjustment, fore-and-aft. With all that in place, I couldn't resist running some loops with some Nylon line. I need to get the radio gear together and charged up to do a real test. I have a little over 20 inches of travel. Some fancy block magic and I can get up to 40 inches.
  13. JerryTodd
    The paint dry, things can be put in their places to check fit and alignments. Then on to the forward winch-tray. Reusing the blocks that were epoxied in for the rudder to sit on, I needed them taller and the angle change so the plane of this tray is level with the one aft. I also need them a little longer because this tray will get slots cut into it so I can adjust it fore-and-aft to set the tension on the loop, and so the screw that hold it are accessible through the hatch. The battery lays just aft of here as well, so I shaped the pieces like knees to over hang it a little while not interfering with access to it. The added pieces are glued to the old rudder-servo mounts, but not having a good way to clamp them, I put a couple of bugle-head screws in, which I think I'll leave in there, since they're epoxy coated. Here's a pic of the model with sub-deck laid in to show the access hatch openings as they'll be in the finished model. The little hatch forward will most likely get decked over when the time comes as it's not really for anything. The "engine room hatch" over the aft winch and the main hatch will be screwed down with rubber gaskets to prevent leakage since I expect this boat to be as wet as the real one was.
  14. JerryTodd
    Pulled out the old servo-tray that sat on the centerboard-trunk, and reset the main-mast step. The step was raised about 1/8" as the main sat a little too low. I didn't know that the tray would be in the way, but it's neater and cleaner with it out, and may fool someone into thinking I know what I'm doing. The old motor bulkhead got extensions and some paint, and an old knee was reused to catch the forward end of the new aft servo tray. I won't have access to this bit that pokes out forward once the deck is on, so instead of screwing it to a knee I installed to catch it, there's a block above the knee that holds it down. Two screws into the bulkhead at the back holds it in the boat. If I need to remove the tray, I take out the two screws I can access through the hatch, and the front slips out. The little blocks on the wings will hold the idler-pulleys up at the right level to the other winch drum. Then there's that lovely yellow paint. I don't even remember getting yellow spray paint, but I can't paint everything red. The forward winch tray is mostly made, I have to figure out it's mounting, which will involve the old rudder servo-tray blocks the thing is sitting on in the pic, but it needs raising up and the angle corrected. It will also have some fore-and-aft movement to it so I can adjust the tension on the loops.
  15. JerryTodd
    I pulled out the prop-shaft, cut back the stuffing box, and plugged it with epoxy. With that clear I made fitted a couple of beams where the rudder servo will go, made them into a frame, and epoxied it into the hull. I used a slow-set epoxy, so I couldn't do any more till it set-up. The steering will need a couple of turning blocks and fairleads to become functional. I placed some servos where the winches will go to do some measuring and it looks like I should get at least 22 inches (56cm) length of pull from each loop. That ought to be plenty to handle all these over-lapping sails.
  16. JerryTodd
    Made holes in the edges of the tops for the topmast dead-eye strops to pass through to the futtock shrouds. The futtock shrouds will be brass rod that will attach at to mast to a futtock band, which in this case is a strip od styrene wrapped and glued around the mast just under the hounds, with eye pins inserted. I thought of making a metal band with eye soldered on, but I don't need it that elaborate. The tresle-trees also got some brass plates (blackened) for my topmast fids to rest on without damaging the wood. The middle portion of the pic below is the mainmast, the black line some of what I'll be using for the topmast shrouds and some other standing rigging, rove up and down just so I can see how it looks. A brass rod is also stuck in there to see how the futtocks will work out. I was out most of today and worked on the rope-walk when I got back, soldering leads and prepping DPDT switches. I finally had to take a break either because I was tired, or ran out of places to sit thing down. I think tomorrow the shop will need some straightening up before I can get back to anything else
  17. JerryTodd
    I pulled everything out except the prop shaft and stuffing box (which is just a tube). My smallest allen-wrenches seem to have wandered off so I can't take off the prop and bushings yet. Once that's out of the way, I'll look at mounting the rudder servo and making new fairleads for the steering gear. The wood blocks forward are epoxied in, as are the block where the rudder servo was mounted, I'm leaving them in place unless they get in the way, since it'll be a chore taking them out with damaging the hull. The aircraft plywood servo tray just forward of the mainmast will come out as well. I edited in a new diagram that ought to be a little clearer to see the controls, hatch outlines, and steering lines. I'm thinking instead of running the control loops side-by-side, I'll put one winch aft, and the other forward so the control-loops work within each other. This should make dealing with the connections through the hatches easier, since the whole system will be narrower. I also got 50 pounds (22.7kg) of lead shot a few days ago, so I have to determine the size and shape of the bulb I need to cast. That will get bolted onto her removable fin and I think will be in the neighborhood of 20 pounds (9kg). Some shot in baggies will go in the hull for trim, I figure one in the bow and the other in the stern, each about a pound. Pride was on display at National Maritime Day on May 22nd. Here she is on the table with Cliodhna. Mark's schooner isn't a particular scale, but it's very close to Pride's 1:20.
  18. JerryTodd
    Yeah, Mark's into his Irishness, (which spellcheck wants to change to Garishness). When they opened a Guinness brewery here in Maryland, you would have thought it was the second coming. As a Scotts-Jew, I have completely different stereotypes to live up too. As for the prop, I'm afraid even a pretty, 1 inch (25mm) prop wouldn't be up to the job. I considered putting a motor on the end of Constellation's the ballast tube with a nice big nylon prop from a Sequin steam tug kit, but someone tried towing her once, with a dedicated 1:24 scale tug boat model in a 4-5 knot breeze and could hardly make any headway against all that sail. Instead, I'm looking at building a 6 or 7 foot pram that I can car-top by myself, and chase these things around with a trolling motor. Here's a couple more pics of Cliodhna. She's a yachtified fishing schooner. Her lines are based on a hull he liked in a 1930's magazine of boat designs. When the hull was built, he thought she looked "stubby" so he lengthened it about 4 inches. All her hardware details are based on Chapelle's The American Fishing Schooners. Mark made all her hardware except for the turnbuckles and deadeyes. I modeled and printed the stern-boards, wheel, and windlass for him. She's clean and neat, and the brass is all polished and varnished because the wife didn't want a stinky old fishing boat on display in the living-room. If I had done that hardware, I wouldn't have hidden it under blackening or paint either. The model is one of those that's beautiful at any distance.
  19. JerryTodd
    My friend Mark sailed his 46 inch schooner Cliodhna (Clee-na) for the first time in the pool at National Maritime (May 2022). He controls the sails with a sort of close-line system driven by a winch. It's actually a common system in RC sailing models, especially schooners, and what I originally intended to use in Pride. The winch drives a closed loop and the sails' sheets are attached at points so the loop's travel pulls the sheets the requisite length for each sail. Mark used one loop to control the over-lapping jibs (there's gonna be a jib-tops'l), and the other loop controls all the rest of the sails (the ones with booms basically). Watching this work so well in the pool, especially with the over-lapping jib, I started rethinking Pride's set-up - again. I could finish this model if I could work out the controls, and what I was working on I don't think was going to work. Sometimes the first idea winds up being the best idea, with some adjustment, First off; I already plan to remove the motor. There's no way that that 1 inch prop is going to move all that sail in even against the slightest breeze. The motor will go to the upgrade of my rope-walk. With the motor gone, the Rudder servo can be moved aft to where the motor was, closer to the rudder and the receiver, so I won't need an extension cable. Two winch servos with be re-mounted just forward of the rudder servo, and the other end of their loops with be at the forward end of the main hatch, just behind the foremast. This should get me enough length to control everything, even, I hope, the square tops'l. Another step towards getting this girl in the water is the arrival of 50 pounds of lead shot. Now to gather the materials and courage to cast a 25 pd lead bulb.
  20. JerryTodd
    I wish I could find some images of the way all that rig is put up, there's got to be places for the shrouds, stays, sheets, etc, all attach with some sort of corresponding hardware I ought to include in my model. Not to mention now having an urge to do an RC model.
  21. JerryTodd
    Since I need to make spars and sails for the boats, including the launch, I went digging around to find out what I needed to make, as well as other items that go in the boat. I looked in Nare, Luce, Brady (The Kedge Anchor), the Navy Ordnance Manual of 1866 (haven't found an earlier one yet), and a few other, mostly British works. Besides finding out that two extra oars are to be "triced up" under the thwarts, the rest to be bundled and gasketed to the thwarts (which implies a single "bundle"); the mast and sails to be "kept in the boats" the sails in a "painted cover made for them;" davits boats' rudders to be tied on so the line must be cut to remove the rudder; and a list (with reference to the Ordnance Manual) of what goes in the boat when going boating. A lot of this I don't need to model though the crew getting things ready to launch the launch is a nice little vignette, maybe even prepping a quarter-boat as well. At any rate, I do have to apologize to Roger for disagreeing with him about the boat in the painting. Apparently a ship's launch is a far more complex machine than I had come to believe based mostly on what's shown in images, and models (even period models); because in The Kedge Anchor (1849 and in later editions) I found this: That could very well be somebody's launch, but... it ain't Constellation's, cause it's flying a British flag at the peak.
  22. JerryTodd
    But that boat has permanent standing rigging and a topmast with cross-trees and trestle trees, as well as a yard lowered across the rails - a very common thing seen in images of naval cutters. Also, based on the figures on it, is larger than 32 feet, It could be a courier boat from the Naval attache or consulate, or simply the mail boat as there's several American vessels at anchor. It's certainly not a ship's launch.
  23. JerryTodd
    In this image? That's a a cutter that probably 60-90 foot on deck. The launch was only 32 feet and two masted with a sprit-schooner or sprit-ketch rig. DeSimone had a lot of experience with ships, and their appearance, and while including a lot of detail, left out a lot as well. I imagine he did a sketch, maybe a quick painting to get the tones right, then went home and filled in the rest from memory and experience. In the 1856 painting there are no lower deadeyes on the topmast shrouds, or any at all on the off starboard side. The bowsprit, spencer masts, gaffs, and booms, seem to cycle between bare wood, black, and white and it's hard to say if they were repainted, or the artists just made it up. In a diary it says the ship was painted while in Naples and the captain had the ship painted all black with no gun stripe. She went on a patrol of the Med and the gunstripe was repainted when she returned to Naples. So, it's possible the spars actually were different colors every time DeSimone saw the ship. If you look back in this thread a ways, you'll see the signal flag issue regarding the signal flown at the mizzen truck in the 1856 painting. I still cannot find those flags in any signal system. Another painting that's incorrectly IDed online as another ship (I forget which now) but is certainly Constellation pre-1860 and shares odd details with the 1856 painting, like the missing topmast shroud deadeyes. An all the gaffs and booms are white. One of her boats, probably the port side quarter boat or second cutter, is approaching from the bottom of the painting. I've never found color versions of this or the painting above so far. This drawing of the ship in 1864 by DeSimone at Naples, I just found at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News Virginia. It has a lot of interesting details shown, and omitted, for instance she has the wrong number of gunports. Some of her boats are shown, but as you pointed out, they don't really get much attention. One image I'm still searching for was a photo taken from a hill on St Helena that's mentioned in a diary. That would probably be the first, and earliest photograph of the ship ever taken.
  24. JerryTodd
    I painted the pivot guns, but the photos show more touch-up is needed to be finished. I need them painted before I attach them to the hatches they sit on, then they can be rigged with their tackles and what-not. With the intent to get the yards fully rigged with foot-ropes, blocks and the like, I've been thinking how I want to handle the stirrups. In reality, the stirrups are a line with an eye on each end a little over 3 feet long. One eye is seized to the jackstay and the stirrup hangs over the bank of the yard. The foot rope passes through the bottom eyes. I'm still looking to see if is was Navy policy to seize the foot-rope to the stirrup or not. In photos of the ship where they can be seen, she's already a training ship and the foot ropes have a knot on either side of the stirrup eye. Since I have 56 stirrups to make for the 12 yards, I'm thinking of just making then from wire as show in the picture, blackened or painted, of course. I did one to see if I liked it, and was about to go to work making them when I realized I bought all this .020 brass to make the dead-eye strops, so I switched gears and started looking at chainplates again. I cleaned up the work area a bit, and took the rest of the jury-rigging off the hull, like eyes for the temporary stays, and some of the chain-plates that were screwed on. I started cleaning up the chainplates sets I had made so far, finished the ones that were nearly done, and fix some soldier joints. I remember trying to decide whether to uses a #1 bolt and nut to attached the dead-eye to the chain-plate or peen an escutcheon pin (brass nail) to do the job. The nuts and bolts would be expensive, especially right now with inflation the way it is, so I'm going with the escutcheon pins. They're a bit hard and peening them is difficult, so I annealed one to see it that worked better, and it did. Next I started working on some jigs to shape the strops, links, and the strap between the dead-eye and the link. I also gave one set a coat of primer for the picture. In all there's about 26 pairs to make almost all a little different as the link gets longer with each set going aft because of the angle of the shroud. That means each pair has to be assigned it's position on the hull as they're all basically different lengths. The upper deadeyes have the same sort of strop and each shroud gets a thimbled eye with a pin holding them together. I plan to 3D print the tear-drop shaped thimbles, and use the same peened pins to attach the strops, but I have a feeling actually doing all that is going to be very complicated and needing of more hands than I possess. I thing peening the strop to the thimble, then seizing the shroud around the thimble with the upper dead-eye held by a measured bracket so all the upper deadeyes are consistently spaced is probably the easiest way to deal with it. We'll see when I get that far.
  25. JerryTodd
    Just an FYI, so you don't have to dig back 30 posts or so... The red thing in the video is the arm on the servo, which is part of the radio-control system. It has 3 cleats on it, The white lines going into a hole in the end at the "bottom" of the arm are connected to the tiller on the rudder, which appears briefly at the bottom of the video. These lines run back to the two cleats at the "top" of the arm. Using cleats allows for relatively easy adjustment of the line. The cleat in the center or the servo arm, closer to the "bottom" is for the line that moves the wheel. Basically, the wheel is not directly connected to the rudder/tiller but the rudder and the wheel are connected to the servo. Anyone that doesn't get that explanation, say something and I'll try again.

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