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JerryTodd

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Everything posted by JerryTodd

  1. JerryTodd
    Psssst, hey Tim, have you seen your private messages here?
  2. JerryTodd
    Nice sticks
  3. JerryTodd
    Ed, you are fast replacing Crabtree as my favorite ship modeler
  4. JerryTodd
    This was the best I could manage of the image on the wall of the Mariner's Museum in Newport News VA.
  5. JerryTodd
    Sewn, glued, or soldiered, the boltrope does not attach the the knife edge of the cloth.
  6. JerryTodd
    Constellation reached Fortress Monroe on Christmas Day 1864. In January 1865, the men whose enlistments had expired were "paid off" and discharged, the remainder of the crew was transferred to the frigate St. Lawrence, and the officers sent on leave to await orders. Constellation finished the Civil War as a Receiving Ship, first at Norfolk, and later at Philadelphia, until 1869. This AR Waud sketch is propably of her at Norfolk, if it's her at all. The stern is wrong and should look much like the frigate's in the storm, except ROUND. Here she is in 1859 being refitted before the African cruise
  7. JerryTodd
    http://todd.mainecav.org/model/sail-making/
  8. JerryTodd
    When I first saw the Constellation in the storm of 1833 I thought, wait, that's the Albany But looking closer at the image it obviously was a frigate, and I realized it was another angle of the same subject Still looking for a better image of this painting of Constellation at Naples, as it's the only one I know of that shows any of her stern. It's credited to the Naval Historical Foundation who forwarded me to the Washington Naval Yard, who said it was a photo copy of the box art from a plastic model kit. (it's not)
  9. JerryTodd
    It's interesting; I noticed that the prototype model of the brig Syren has boomkins, but I've see several photos of completed models of that kit that do not, and the tacks, if rigged, were lead to the cat-heads. If the sail-plan is checked, the cat-heads would not pull the clew forward enough on Syren either.
  10. JerryTodd
    The cathead won't haul the clew forward enough. The reconstructed vessel has stumpy little boomkins a good 10 feet forward of the catheads, and long enough to require a couple of stays. I've been making reenactor stuff, mostly tent pins, instead of working on models. When I took a break to work on boats it was on my 16 footer that I hadn't sailed since '09. Constellation's gonna sail soon though. She still jury-rigged from May, I just have to reeve her braces and make a new handle for her cart, the old closet pole broke, twice.
  11. JerryTodd
    It's a bumpkin, boomkin, or some variation of that depending on where you're from. Pretty much all vessels with a square fores'l will have boomkins forward, and sometime on the quarters aft as well, for the main braces and sheets. The tack will run to a block on the boomkin the up to a pin, cleat, or post near the knightheads, or thereabouts. The point is to haul the windward clew of the sail forward on the wind (close-hauled), which is what the yards do on the sails above the course.
  12. JerryTodd
    A couple of oldies
  13. JerryTodd
    I think it was just a credit card ad
  14. JerryTodd
    What wood are you using for the spars?
  15. JerryTodd
    We just call them "sticks." "Sea was so rough it nearly rolled her sticks out of her!"
  16. JerryTodd
    Here's a Jimmy James sketch of Jack-Line reefing, some call French Reefing. It's a method used on real ships around the 1840's or so and can be seen in photos as late as the 1920's. I didn't install such a set-up as I figure that if it's blowing too hard for tops'ls, it's blowing too hard to sail. I have nothing to prove A line is attached across the sail, typically at each reef point, making retro-fitting a sail easier without altering anything. On a model you could use line that matched the sail's color to make it less visible, and put in regular reef-points for show. The cringles are hooked to hold the sail up and out (think reefing tackle) and a jack-line is passed through the loops from front, over the yard to the back, back over the yard to the front and so on across the sail. The jack-line's tied to the yard at either end. You can CA some of the end of the jack-line to make a sort of needle to help thread it. It's a LOT simpler and easier to do and undo on a model than tying far too many reef-points than any human mind could endure.
  17. JerryTodd
    Congratulations Timmo! She's beautiful. Those gusts feel like they're deliberately messing with you, don't they. Did you manage any video at all? About those gusts... I reverted to only controlling the tops'l yards, cutting out direct control of the course yards. I'll have working bunts and clews on the courses to brail them up (after pulling the wire from the sleeve at the foot), and the t'gallants and royals will be removable, yard and all. I'd make that stays'l brailable if I were setting any. I have two tris'ls, or spencers on gaffs that brail up in lieu of stays'ls that may or may not get set if the air's very light, but their sheets aren't controlled. The trick is not only having options in sail configurations, but options you can implement at the water's edge.
  18. JerryTodd
    Welcome neighbor, well, relative to some folks here, we live next door.
  19. JerryTodd
    I have one of these to do in 1:36 scale yet, for Constellation's launch. I was thinking of doing it in styrene, I tend to not burn my fingers so much working in plastic.
  20. JerryTodd
    Made the fore tops'l yard parrel, and feeling cockey with my soldering, a new wythe.
  21. JerryTodd
    I've had 2 Constitutions and 2 United States kits since 1971 and have never seen the more "verbose" version of the rigging instructions. They must be newer versions.
  22. JerryTodd
    That would be a lizard such as the attached.
  23. JerryTodd
    Sunday (5/21) past was the Baltimore Port Expo for National Maritime Day. I couldn't get the model ready to sail in time, and the pool was to shallow to allow it anyway, so she sat on her cart on display. She did wear all 17 sails and a lot of folks asked a lot of interesting and intelligent questions about her. I took another shot at the parrel I gave up on back in December and I think I got it this time. I'll get no offers to make jewelry or clocks, but I have a parrel. It's a 1/4 wide strip of 1/16" thick copper bent into a two-part ring. 1/16" i.d. brass tubing was soldiered the the ends to make hinges. The post for the yard's yoke is a brass #4 screw threaded and soldier to the copper band. A section of brass tubing was threaded onto it to cover the threads where the yoke will ride, and prevent the retaining nut from being over-tightened. It's lined with 3/8" tall, 1/16" thick bass, CAed inside the parrel so it doesn't mar the mast. I'll grind down that hex-nut smaller at some point. Just two more to go.
  24. JerryTodd
    Copper tape wants a smooth surface, the smoother the better.
  25. JerryTodd
    These are 1853-54 vintage; launch, cutters, quarter-boats, and stern boat for Constellation

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