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Posted

This is my first build, I haven't been able to work on it much as of late due to grad school taking up all my time. But I am going to post pictures and some info. Hopefully I'll be able to get a little work on it done here and there, I know I will have many many questions as I progress along.

 

 

 

 

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The typical first picture.

 

 

 

 

 

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Getting started with the build. 

 

 

 

 

 

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The shape is coming together.

 

 

 

 

 

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Adding the planks.

 

 

 

 

 

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Lots of sanding happened here.

 

 

 

 

 

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First look of the inside.

 

 

 

 

 

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And we are up to date. If anyone sees anything that I might have missed or needs fixing, please don't hesitate to let me know. This is after all my fist build ever. I am always open to criticism and suggestions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I see that I am going to have to do some soldering, I have never done this, and I don't have any of the tools. What do I need to get to do a good job and make my life as easy as possible.

 

 

 

 

 

-joshukr-

 

Posted

Well, Josh, you've certainly gotten off to a flying start on this project!  So far she looks pretty good to me.  I'll leave it to your fellow WB builders to do the critique.  I can say that I love the framing on this little boat and that the fact you've discovered that sandpaper is your friend is a good thing.

 

As to soldering, there used to be a number of articles on MSW about that.  Check under the 'search' heading.  If not, tell us what you are trying to solder and some advice will magically appear.

 

Oh, just one thing.  The title of your log is just a bit confusing.  I thought you were Skerry Amp!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Oh, just one thing.  The title of your log is just a bit confusing.  I thought you were Skerry Amp!

Thanks for pointing that out to me, I copied Skerry Amp's header and forgot to change the name. ha ha.

 

I am studying Industrial/Organizational Psychology at East Carolina University. Ever heard of that degree? 

Posted (edited)

Great Job Josh - nice to see pics again of your Willie L Bennett !   I hear ya about soldering - it will be my first attempt at that as well. Prior to beginning -  I've been looking at the well-done and informative article that "Russ" has on the site - under the main Model Ship World page, then, Articles/Downloads - then, Materials-Tools.

 

Welcome Back !  - and good luck in grad school.

Edited by gerty

Current Build: Willie L. Bennett - Model Shipways

 

Future Interests:  Friendship Sloop - BlueJacket Ship Crafters

                            Cape Cod Catboat - BlueJacket Ship Crafters 

                       

Posted

Nice fix on the title!  No sense giving Skerry credit for 'stereo' builds (only Popeye gets that).

 

No, can't say I've ever heard of that advanced degree.  But with the pace of the business world these days it will probably come in handy.

 

Best of luck on both the degree and the build!!!!!!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Hi Josh, just now ck'n out your build. Looks to be a very interesting kit from MS, I really like the  construction of it, it has real nice lines.  

also the deck framing seems to be pretty extensive You seem to be handling this extremly well for a first time build, your work looks very good . Just have fun with your build, and good look to you on your degree!!

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

Posted

Very nice work on the Bennet, Josh!  Looking real crisp. 

 

Have heard of the graduate program you are in - it is a challenging one!  best of luck with it!

Wayne

Neither should a ship rely on one small anchor, nor should life rest on a single hope.
Epictetus

Posted

gerty - I'll take a look at the article posted by Russ, I appreciate the info.

 

riverboat - thanks for the kind words, I have really enjoyed the build so far, and I know that I will continue to enjoy it. I have been enjoying my schooling as well. 

 

trippwj - Thanks, it's nice to be told my build is crisp. That's a first. ha ha. I don't know how the degree is for other, but it's been a challenge for me so far, but I've enjoyed it thus far. 

Posted

Josh - lookin' sweet. Are you sure this is your first build! Is that a ball mount you have mounted there? Now that is cool idea.

Rob in Calgary

Posted

I have a few questions that I would like to get answered.

 

1. When it comes to painting the hull, I know I need to sand it well first, then prime, followed by painting. Am I missing any steps?  

 

2. What is the water line for?  I see it everywhere and see everyone talk about it, but I'm very unfamiliar with what things are. Never really been around boats and the lingo.

 

3. Is it better to build the deck first or the hatches and cabins first? 

 

4. in my instructions it says to notch out different parts of the side coamings for the hatch plank. Is this for the roof of the hatch or for the bottom of the hatch? Also am I assuming right with thinking the coamings are the deck beams? 

 

Any insight or possible suggestions would be much appreciated.

Posted

Josh:

Your Willie Bennett is looking great and I, also, want to thank you for your compliments on my Willie Bennett post in the Completed Ships Gallery. It seems that the Willie Bennett is a first build for a lot of people and it is a good kit to learn a lot of the necessary skills of wood ship model building.

Dan B

 

Current Build: Benjamin W. Latham-American Fishing Schooner, MS

 

Previous Builds: Willie L. Bennett-Chesapeake Bay Skipjack, MS; Lewis & Clark Keelboat, L & C Replicas; HMS Sultana-Colonial Schooner, MS; Glad Tidings-Pinky Schooner, MS 

 

Future Build: Emma C. Berry-Sloop-Rigged Well Smack, MS

Posted (edited)

I don't see filling seams with wood filler Josh. I've been spending lots of time looking at the hull with my lighted magnifying glass to try and find any seams or spots that are quite right. I figure at the scale we are doing these models most seams would not be seen. I take that cue from photos. Can't generally see seams etc. until really close up. Just a thought. I use LePage wood filler because it comes in different colours and in tubes. There is the plastic wood by LePage but found that way too hard to sand. It's not as forgiving. Also found that if I put some filler on my finger and rub the wood filler into the seams it works. I don't use much at a time though. Best part... it washes off the hands... :) You may not need any seams filled btw.

Edited by robipod

Rob in Calgary

Posted

Hi Josh!

 

Your skipjack is looking really good! I'm no expert, but I think you would be able to get a cleaner look doing the deck before the cabins and hatches. I beleive that most boats have an anti-fouling paint applied below the waterline to try to ward off worms and barnacles and stuff  that's usually a different color, so I think that's why the waterline is important. Maybe someone that actually knows more will say for sure! :D  

-Buck

 

Current build: AL Morgan's Whaleboat (1st build)

 

Kits in the ships locker: I cannot confirm nor deny that there may be a few kits in there...

Posted

Hello, Josh - thought I'd "pop in" about the waterline. 

 

If you intend to paint the boat, the waterline is important for the reason noted above - the area below the waterline would usually be a different color since some type of anti-fouling paint (red on this boat) would be applied below the waterline.  Since anti-fouling paint is much more expensive, it was not used for most other areas.  On larger vessels, the waterline is also the separating point for copper sheathing.

Wayne

Neither should a ship rely on one small anchor, nor should life rest on a single hope.
Epictetus

Posted

Hey Josh,  I know I am late to the party - been in home remodeling limbo;   but your Willie looks awesome!!  Nice to see more of them cropping up;  maybe we can start a Skipjack armada !! 

 

 

 

 

-Adam

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

Posted

Adam,

 

I've never been part of an armada before, let alone a Skipjack armada!!! I'm in. Thanks for the kind words. Hope the home remodels have gone smoothly, or at least have moved forward, ha ha. In my experience remodels never go as smooth as they are planned. Hope you had a different experience.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Josh:

Great looking build so far. If this is your first model, you are really doing well.

 

To answer your questions:

1. sanding is essential, filling can be done on an as needed basis, and priming is optional. I prefer to use acrylics and let them soak into the wood, using several thin coats. The first coat will raise the grain, but you can knock that down with some fine sandpaper. After that, another thin coat, let it set overnight, and then anothet thin coat, and so forth. Build up the thin layers of paint until you get the level opacity you desire.  

 

2. The waterline is where the surface of the water meets the hull. Below that waterline, these boats had a coat of anti-fouling paint, usually a reddish color, but sometimes it was blue or green. Red was/is the most common I think.

 

3. I would plank the deck first before installing the deckhouse and hatches. You can position the deckhouse and hatches, and mark where they sit so you can lay the planks right up to the edge of the structure, but it is easier to get a smooth finish on the deck planking if you have no obstacles in the way. I use a single edged razor blade to scrape the surface of the deck planking smooth. This will yield a better finished surafce than sandpaper. You can use the hatches and deckhouse as gauges to make sure you are getting the planks right up to where they need to be.

 

4. The hatch plank sounds like the hatch cover. The coamings would have a support area for the ends of the hatch cover so that the covers wuld lay flush with the top of the coaming. The coamings are the frame of the hatch that sits on top of the deck frames. They are set higher than the surface of the deck to help keep water out if the boat gets heavily loaded.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Russ

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hello Joshukr,

 

I'm sorry to be late by wishing you a Happy Birthday. I hope you had a great day!

 

animaatjes-verjaardag-26415.gif

 

Take care,

 

Anja

Those we loved but lost are no longer where they were, but are always where we are.


In the gallery: Albatros 1840 - Constructo

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey, Josh.  I'm just starting my Willie Bennett build and having difficulty understanding how the sides attach to the stern.  Do you have any closeups you can post or email?  The directions just aren't clear enough for a newb like me.

 

Thanks!

 

Kevin

Posted

Kevin:

The sides overlap the stern so that the end grain of the stern is covered by the side planks. Is that what you are needing to know?

 

Russ

  • 8 months later...

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