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Posted

I need to seal a solid hull, basswood, to look like a steel hull. I am thinking of light coats of gray primer (Rustoleum) with light sanding between coats. Does this seem like a doable plan?

  Ron W.

Ron W.

Posted

I don't know if this will work.

 

This is not my area, but this product (Bare Metal Foil) caught my eye in the Micro-Mark catalog.

 

Here is a link to the original manufacturer  http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html

 Interesting to see that copper is available.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

As for sealing,  I would do this:

 

rub surface using 0000 steel wool or  600/1000 grit Silicone carbide paper.

coat #1   Pure Tung oil cut  1:1 with mineral spirits.

rub surface using 0000 steel wool or  600/1000 grit Silicone carbide paper.

coat #2   shellac cut 1:1 with shellac thinner ( anhydrous alcohol /  MeOH or EtOH or IsopropylOH ).

rub surface using 0000 steel wool or  600/1000 grit Silicone carbide paper.

 

Now use a paint primer.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Thanks Jaager. I had also been looking for a way to simulate the hull plates and hadn't thought of Bare Metal Foil. I will use your technique on sealing the wood, then I will try the foil to see if it will work on simulating hull plates.

  Ron W.

Ron W.

Posted

I use clear shellac thinned with denatured alcohol.  About 50%.  Does a good job sealing the wood and as long as you do not plan to use a water based clear finish over it it makes a good base coat.  You can use oil or enamel over it with no problem or solid color water based paints.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

Guest Tim I.
Posted

This sounds strange but drywall compound or bondo works.

 

- Tim

Guest Tim I.
Posted

Work it up in layers with painters tape and you can even simulate lines for the steel plates.

 

- Tim

Posted

Depends on what scale you're working in. If you're down around 1/96 or smaller the layers of primer will suit you just fine. Use a good thin tape to build up your layers. If you're in the bigger scales then the bondo thing will work good just don't get too carried away with the thickness.Keep it subtle. I'd stay away from mixing spray primers with products like Tung oil. The oil is good for natural finishes but it looks like you're going for the steel navy look.Take a look at some of the tutorials the NRG offers.

 Bill in Idaho where it has cooled off signifigantly after a couple three weeks of 100 deg. temps. Now just 85 in the PMs.

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

Posted

Actually Tim, the bondo doesn't sound strange. I have been using it to fill in hollows and repairs. Reklein, the model is 3/32 scale or 1:128. Thanks to the both of you for the advice. I have been experimenting on some scrap, basically trying to practice so I don't mess up on the hull. Since I am already using bondo for repairs, I will experiment using it to simulate hull plates. 

  Reklein, we were having the same temps here in the Salt Lake area. These temperatures are feeling pretty good.

Ron W.

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