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bushman32

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About bushman32

  • Birthday 10/04/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Draper, UT
  • Interests
    Ships, both plastic and wood. Naval/maritime history, maritime art, astronomy, WWI armor and aircraft, and scratching my butt.

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  1. I recently had a person contact me inquiring about some repairs that are needed on a ship model. Her company has the Flying Fish in Pleasant Grove, UT and needs some rigging repairs and some minor fitting repairs. I am not able to do the the repairs at this time, so if anyone is interested I can give you their contact information. Thanks, Ron W.
  2. Welcome to the club. What part of Utah are you from? I live in Draper. Ron
  3. Did early brigantines have a gaff on the foremast? That's why I thought topsail schooner.
  4. I am thinking it is a topsail schooner
  5. Hi guys and gals. Haven't been on here in sometime so I thought I had better introduce myself. My name is Ron Wilkinson and I am from Draper, UT. Have been a NRG member for over 20 years and also an IPMS member. Currently working on Blue Jacket's Olympia and Zvesda's Knyaz Suvorov. Ron W.
  6. That is a good idea. On the few areas that you need to sand, can you wet sand? I have wet sanded bondo on basswood with no problems, but I haven't done that on wood filler.
  7. The only plans showing the portholes are a profile plan and they are not mechanical drawings. I was hoping my idea might show the effects of the hull curves. Ron W.
  8. Hi everyone, I have a dilemma. I need to transfer portholes, casemates, and other hull fittings from a profile plan to the side of a hull, and I am looking for an accurate method. Since the plan is flat and the hull isn't I can't transfer directly from plan to hull. I was thinking of marking the locations on a batten, then transfer the marks along the deck's centerline. I can then use a square to extend these marks to the sides of the hull. Any ideas on this would be most appreciated. Thanks, Ron W.
  9. Mike, The Proxxon/MicroLux is made of plastic, but I have not had any problems as far as that is concerned. Ron W.
  10. The Proxxon is also marketed here in the States by Micro Mark as the Microlux saw. I have had mine for 20 odd years now, and still going strong. With a carbide blade I have cut 3 1/2" thick cherry many times. Saw on one side, flip it over, saw again. My saw has gone through this with no problems. Just feed slowly. With jeweler's blades I have cut strips from thin sheets.The trick is set up and feed rates. What is the thickest wood you plan on sawing? Ron W.
  11. Actually Tim, the bondo doesn't sound strange. I have been using it to fill in hollows and repairs. Reklein, the model is 3/32 scale or 1:128. Thanks to the both of you for the advice. I have been experimenting on some scrap, basically trying to practice so I don't mess up on the hull. Since I am already using bondo for repairs, I will experiment using it to simulate hull plates. Reklein, we were having the same temps here in the Salt Lake area. These temperatures are feeling pretty good.
  12. Thanks Jaager. I had also been looking for a way to simulate the hull plates and hadn't thought of Bare Metal Foil. I will use your technique on sealing the wood, then I will try the foil to see if it will work on simulating hull plates. Ron W.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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