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bushman32

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About bushman32

  • Birthday 10/04/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Draper, UT
  • Interests
    Ships, both plastic and wood. Naval/maritime history, maritime art, astronomy, WWI armor and aircraft, and scratching my butt.

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  1. Welcome to the club. What part of Utah are you from? I live in Draper. Ron
  2. Hi guys and gals. Haven't been on here in sometime so I thought I had better introduce myself. My name is Ron Wilkinson and I am from Draper, UT. Have been a NRG member for over 20 years and also an IPMS member. Currently working on Blue Jacket's Olympia and Zvesda's Knyaz Suvorov. Ron W.
  3. That is a good idea. On the few areas that you need to sand, can you wet sand? I have wet sanded bondo on basswood with no problems, but I haven't done that on wood filler.
  4. The only plans showing the portholes are a profile plan and they are not mechanical drawings. I was hoping my idea might show the effects of the hull curves. Ron W.
  5. Hi everyone, I have a dilemma. I need to transfer portholes, casemates, and other hull fittings from a profile plan to the side of a hull, and I am looking for an accurate method. Since the plan is flat and the hull isn't I can't transfer directly from plan to hull. I was thinking of marking the locations on a batten, then transfer the marks along the deck's centerline. I can then use a square to extend these marks to the sides of the hull. Any ideas on this would be most appreciated. Thanks, Ron W.
  6. Mike, The Proxxon/MicroLux is made of plastic, but I have not had any problems as far as that is concerned. Ron W.
  7. The Proxxon is also marketed here in the States by Micro Mark as the Microlux saw. I have had mine for 20 odd years now, and still going strong. With a carbide blade I have cut 3 1/2" thick cherry many times. Saw on one side, flip it over, saw again. My saw has gone through this with no problems. Just feed slowly. With jeweler's blades I have cut strips from thin sheets.The trick is set up and feed rates. What is the thickest wood you plan on sawing? Ron W.
  8. Actually Tim, the bondo doesn't sound strange. I have been using it to fill in hollows and repairs. Reklein, the model is 3/32 scale or 1:128. Thanks to the both of you for the advice. I have been experimenting on some scrap, basically trying to practice so I don't mess up on the hull. Since I am already using bondo for repairs, I will experiment using it to simulate hull plates. Reklein, we were having the same temps here in the Salt Lake area. These temperatures are feeling pretty good.
  9. Thanks Jaager. I had also been looking for a way to simulate the hull plates and hadn't thought of Bare Metal Foil. I will use your technique on sealing the wood, then I will try the foil to see if it will work on simulating hull plates. Ron W.
  10. I need to seal a solid hull, basswood, to look like a steel hull. I am thinking of light coats of gray primer (Rustoleum) with light sanding between coats. Does this seem like a doable plan? Ron W.
  11. If you go with a Dremel, I would go with what will fit aftermarket accessories. You can somewhat use a drill press for light wood milling, but a few things you need to know. A drill press isn't designed to withstand the forces in milling and a drill bit isn't designed to be an end mill. If you are going to hollow out, drill out as much as you can first. Ron W.
  12. A lot of great ideas for his project. If you get a Dremel rotary tool, Vanda-Lay Industries makes a lot of accessories for it. You can set it up as a small mill, lathe, drill press, and other things. You should go ahead an get a decent set of chisels and gouges. Rotary tool can't make inside cuts square. Ron W.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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