torpedochief Posted September 15, 2015 Share #1 Posted September 15, 2015 A client hired mw to build this for him. It was like a walk down Memory Lane. Originally this kit was the child of BLUE WATER NAVY. In the early 1990s this was one of the only resin submarine kits to be had. In addition it was only one of two or three modern submarine models to be had anywhere. If you can fins one of these kits be sure you take a look at the detail. It is not that great, however that is what to me is wonderful about this model. This was made before lasers and CNC, and 3d printing. This bad boy was turned and scribed!! I have included some shots of the scribing prior to me working on this little jewel. I decided to limit the modification to that which would replicate the clients memories of the ship he served on. As you can see in the first picture, the builder is left with some mathematics to contend with and a bit of brain usage. No witness marks, no alignment guides, lots of sanding filling and love need to be lavished on this Cadillac of the US Submarine Force. I decided to add the WLR-9 Early Warning Acoustic Intercept and other transducers. I would replicate the mast and antenna array as was carried on FLYING FISH in the last years of her service The FLYING FISH was a member of the 637 or STURGON Class of nuclear attack submarines. This class is the follow on from the ill fated 594 class. Remember it was supposed to be 593 Class, however SSN 593 was the THRESHER. 637 Class Attack Submarines were designed to perform multiple roles. Spying was the role in which the class excelled. Of this you can trust me. I served on USS RAY SSN 653; the things I could tell you would keep you up at night. Sitting under an anchored Soviet KIROV class Battle Cruiser in a Libyan harbor waiting for a VICTOR III to leave port, all the while the Russian sonar code named HORSE JAW is pounding the water with such energy it boils sea water for 30 yards. Yeah I got stories. In addition to being top notch spies, this class could deliver the nuclear tipped anti-submarine missile SUBROC, the deadly MK-48 Mods1-4 and ADCAP torpedoes. MK-67 and later CAPTOR Mines. We could employ UGM-84 A HARPOON Cruise Missiles as well. My claim to fame is my ship USS RAY SSN 653 was the first submarine to carry UGM 109 Encapsulated TOMAHAWK Cruise Missile. We could carry A-2 (Nuclear Land Attack) C-2 (Conventional Land Attack) B-2 (Ship Attack) and D-2 (Cluster Munitions.) If a 637 class could not kill you with her weapons, the Special Forces capabilities of the class could. With all the advantages and abilities the class was also top notch in crew comfort. They could dive deeper than the 688 class as well as out maneuver them. Only in sound silencing and speed did the 637s lag behind the 688 Class. Okay, now to the build. First thing is to remove the over pour "keel." You are going to need a belt sander or moto-tool for this. Hand sanding will take you longer than if you were building the real sub! Also the dust from the resin is a major irritant so wear a mask! When you are close to finishing switch to finer grades of paper and end with 0000 steel wool. Next task is marking the location for your control surfaces. The instructions offer little help in location. I have added a plan set here for you should you find one of these kits. Since I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer I find it easier if I mark two sets of lines along the hull. The double line method lets me better center the control surface and it gives me a rough idea of any dips or bulges in the old resin. Before I forget. 637 Class boats were not originally fitted with passive towed sonar arrays. This was a modification done during major shipyard refits. If you choose an early boat, you will need to sand off the towed array faring on the port side. Prior to having a retracting towed array we used what was called a STASS. STASS was basically a "clip on" towed array. You have never known misery like surfacing in the North Atlantic in Winter, state 4 seas to drag the dam thing on deck by hand. The control surfaces in the kit are white metal. You want to file and sand these very carefully. To give the CA glue greater surface area I scribe the glue contact edge in a cross hatch fashion. Prior to gluing I also give the white metal parts a vinegar bath for 20 minutes. This micro etches the surface giving the paint prier some tooth to hold onto. After the vinegar bath the parts are scrubbed with soap and water , rinsed and let dry. The surfaces are then glued to the hull. Rudders on this class are not fixed to the hull. These are set into holes drilled into the resin. More Later!! RGL, GuntherMT, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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