Deadeye strops

[John Allen]

I need some cheese with my whine. Building the Mamoli Victory  this is like a re-run. Had already posted problem with missing parts well started placing the dead-eyes and strops and there are 20 5mm x 30mm just for the bow chain-plates.

 

Have searched on-line cannot find the size and style for this build there also pricey. Tried to find that blacked I assume brass wire to duplicate.

 

I know  all you Mensa builders can assist and provide me with I hope a reasonable solution.

 

John Allen 

[jbshan]

Well, to do it right you're probably going to have to make your own.  They are all different lengths.  Set up a mock mast and run a string from where the shrouds will be down across the channels where the deadeyes will be.  You may have to adjust the positions to avoid gunports.  Bring your string down, keeping it straight the whole length, to the height specified in plans, etc.  Each one will be slightly different, both in length and in angle.  There will probably be preventer links at the end, after the first bolted end and these may be more links or may be plates.  These also should wind up being all different so all will land in a nice neat line on the hull.

To make the links, use wire, make up the chain, solder into loops, and squeeze into the final shape.  Once shaped and linked together you can use blackening stuff or paint.

There is a detailed description in David Antscherl's 'The Fully Framed Model', beginning on p 262, Vol. 2.

[John Allen]

jb,

 

Understand, had read on this site how to make the shrouds before I posted,  and micro mark has the blackening. Thought someone may know of a supplier I'm unaware of (trying to take the lazy may out).  Trying to guess which would be better black artistic wire or brass and blacken.

 

Will take your suggestion and view the fully framed model.

 

Thank you for your input

 

John

[twintrow]

John:

1. Brass and blacken, because then you learn a new technique AND have an unlimited supply since you can blacken lots more than just wire.

2. If artistic wire, I'm guessing it will be shiny and then you will have to apply a matte finish somehow.

 

3. You may want to try and use your electric drill and learn how to make short lengths of line.  You just need to take three )or four) strands and fix one end in a vise, the other in the drill an turn it on until it is what you want.  Search MSW for rope making, there are a couple articles on the technique (probably better explained than I did too).

 

Tom

[John Allen]

Tom,

 

Had pecked around and found several DIYs found out your right about the artist wire.  There was also informative u tubes.

 

I'll be a brassen and a blacken for a few days.

 

Appreciate your response and advice. Take care.

 

Thanks

 

John 

[JerseyCity Frankie]

I mentioned before here on MSW that the South Street Seaport Museum in New York used to get a LOT of donated unfinished model ships. I noticed that nearly all of them had construction halted at the stage of putting on the shrouds. Its the stage where you transition from working in wood to working with rigging and a lot of guys lose enthusiasm at this stage. It doesn't help when its the Victory and there are, as you say, twelve shrouds a side on the Foremast, which adds up to 48 deadeyes to deal with on just one mast! And I'm not even counting the backstays.

Doing the shrouds is another one of those repetitive tasks you have to bull through, maybe the MOST repetitive tasks in the whole process. Don't let it get you down!

Edited September 22, 2015 by JerseyCity Frankie

[John Allen]

Frankie,

 

I had begun to place dead eyes and knocked off a chain plate in addition to 2 gun ports. Now being older and wiser (maybe) I have plenty of patience. If things get too tedious I usually get up and walk away until I relax, sometimes it may take a day.

 

That being said I have not tackled this much complexity in previous builds (and some major unforeseen problems that jumped up and said boo)

 

It will be tedious, I have never not completed any project (some came close).

 

I appreciate your sage advice am going to print your post and place on the desk.

 

Thanks

 

John

[WaltB]

I'd like to take a swing at this issue. I've tried brass and black. But i find for many applications that brass is too stiff to work easily; and blackening it is okay, but tricky. I started using annealed iron wire for many model applications years ago. The wire is easy to work, already black, and comes in many sizes from about 25 gauge to 40 or even 41 gauge (pretty thin stuff that can be twisted). I use it for eyebolts, stropping, some guy wires, and so on.

 

If anyone is interested, there is a great supplier out there:

 

http://www.metalliferous.com/8oz-Spool-Dark-Annealed-Iron-Wire/products/3200/

[John Allen]

for every problem there is a solution kudos walt b

[Bill Tuttle]

WaltB,

 

What a great website, thanks so much for posting.  Will give these boys an order.