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About RichardG

  • Birthday 10/30/1956

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    Round Lake Beach, Illinois, USA

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  1. As I was beginning to use my new saw, I was getting some tear-out when using the cross-cut sled with a 3" 70T blade. So I decided to make a zero clearance insert. Using some 1/8" hardboard and plywood, I came up with this: I made a quick jig for my scroll saw to allow me to cut the slot for the angle fence. The fixture just lifts in and out, the base is a snug fit front to back and the plywood at the rear stops any sideways movement. The stop was then 1/8" too a tall so I made a small fitting from 1/16" plywood and boxwood to raise it up.
  2. As well as forgetting, I'm also finding retrieving stuff takes longer. I feel like I'm into floppy disk speed some days.
  3. The Byrnes saw is very small and quiet but I understand your dilemma. At this time we don't seem to have a solution. As people have pointed out (Chuck from Syren in particular), it's not a fun or very profitable business.
  4. Apparently the saw will cut "larger" stock as well. Greg Herbert used the saw to help make this tiller. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/370-speedwell-by-dvm27-greg-herbert-ketch-rigged-sloop-1752/page/7/?tab=comments#comment-654207
  5. I used this paper when coppering my cutter. It's an interesting and comprehensive document.
  6. I've used paint stirring sticks. The one gallon size is about right. HomeDepot sell them for about a dollar for 10.
  7. As a newbie to the Byrnes saw (although I've used a larger saw quite a lot), I don't think you need a push stick that small. You would be cutting 1mm strips from a wider strip that is 1mm thick. You keep cutting strips off until the remainder is too narrow to work with. The remaining strip will be wider than 1mm. How narrow a strip would be left will come with practice but I'm assuming several mm.
  8. This stuff is great. Make sure you use the alcohol based one, the low-VOC version is not as good.
  9. I like that one is sad. When someone posts some bad news, a "like" doesn't seem appropriate. Hopefully people won't use this negatively.
  10. I did roughly the same, starting it with a knife and making sure I curved the paper back not the foil. Holding with the knife while peeling is a good idea - that I didn't think of. As to gloves, I didn't use those. I find with working at a small scales, my coordination is difficult enough even without gloves. I did not have any issues with fingerprints. I think this varies from person to person. You might want to try first.
  11. Patrick, I forgot to mention that the hull already had a coat of poly applied many years previously. You might want to using sanding sealer prior to the acrylic. Just sanding sealer would work but I found the color evenness of the primer helpful in keeping the copper lined up.
  12. Just a bottle of acrylic from Hobby Lobby I think. Thinned slightly and a couple of coats. Since I was covering it up anyway, it didn't have to be perfect (which is good given my below average painting skills).
  13. I think sealing the wood is a good idea. I used a gray primer on my hull before coppering. This provided a smooth base, enabled me to use a sharpie to mark the waterline, and was a good contrast with the copper color. 100% agree on the basswood.
  14. The problem with being old and having worked with computers since the 80's is I can think of worse things than Windows 8. Anyone remember Microsoft Bob? And why can my brain cells remember that but then take 20 minutes to find where I left a screwdriver bit from a week ago.
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