RichardG

I'll create a setup package and instructions for it and make it available. Sorry for diverting this thread Richard.

Back in the period (18th century). Numbers were taken from here: https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Cross-CulturalHistoricMeasurementUnits

Interestingly I've been building software to do that. I have a working desktop version that I'm slowly converting to an Android app (in my not very abundant free time). This is a screen shot: It supports English (in/ft in/yd ft in), metric (m/mm), and French (Peid/Pouces/Lignes). The scale can be set on both sides (so you can go from 1/24 to 1/64 for example) More samples: I've been doing this as an exercise and for personal use. I could make it available if people are interested (it would be free). Thanks, Richard

I just opened my email and my inbox was full of notifications 😀, so I'm going add one more! A wonderful build and a fantastic log. Congratulations!! Definitely a log to visit and visit again, and again.... All the best, Richard.

For making nails from brass wire there's a video here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/?do=findComment&comment=91910 Richard

I haven't documented how I made the stamps for nailing pattern. Let me know if this would be useful and I'll put something together. BTW, this doesn't require any special tools, just some patience. Richard.

For my hull I painted below the waterline in gray. This was because I was overlapping the plates and I found the grey easier to see the plates against. If you're not overlapping the plates (which I think is the case in the build log you mention), then copper paint would probably be better. Your hull looks really good! Richard.

Phil, Sorry it’s taken a while for me to respond. I wanted to wait until I could find time to reply properly. The reason I have anchors is that they came with the kit! I did redo the stocks though. I don’t have catheads (yet). I would agree that the ship must have had anchors. I find Chapelle’s drawings frustrating in their lack of detail. I’m 100% sure the deck had more stuff! Similarly the plans that came with the kit are missing details. They do have rigging shown but it’s too simple and neat. I’m not a sailor but I do know the lines are not all a perfect length with absolutely no excess. As to where the anchor rope was stored and if there was a windlass are questions I’ve had but have found no definite answers. I did start a windlass question thread here Windlass on 1815 Revenue cutter (almost 3 years ago! I now need to go back and re-read). I’ve also been using the plans of the French Schooner La Jacinthe of 1825 as another reference. She has catheads and the anchors rigged to them and the bulwarks but no windlass. With no bulwarks, I’m not sure if you have enough room to store the anchor on the ships side; when the ship heeled over, it would be in the water. The issue of storage raises a long standing worry for me. Where did they put stuff? Rope, anchors, food, water, a stove, hammocks, materials and tools for minor repairs, gunpowder, shot, etc. etc. The space under the deck was between around 5 feet at the bow up to a maximum of about 7 1/2 feet. I know these were not luxury yachts but their time away from port must have been limited. From the history of the Dallas: Where on earth did they get two boats from? Also, I have seen it mentioned that captains sometimes supplemented the main pivot gun with additional small cannon. It’s just more stuff! So I know I haven’t answered any questions but have given you my thoughts 😀. I've just got the rudder left to copper and then I'll be ready to turn the ship over and get back to the rest of the work. So I'm going to have to start making some decisions. Thanks, Richard

"The Grade II listing, normally given to buildings of architectural or historic interest, was made by the government on the advice of Historic England." https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/jan/31/uk-lists-nymph-figurehead-from-crimean-warship

Would she have had goring belts? I have not seen a definitive date/locale where these started to be used. I have used The Introduction and Use of Copper Sheathing - A History as my main reference for my cutter (which at ~1815 is a little earlier than the Kate Cory). "Both the 1858 Portsmouth Navy Yard and the 1875 Philadelphia Navy Yard photos clearly show the “no belt” pattern to Constitution‘s copper." see https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2016/11/18/new-copper-sheathing-2/. Not sure if this helps any. Richard.

Welcome Philip. I would definitely recommend your own build log. Each build log is unique. All the best, Richard.

Doris, Thanks for showing us your wonderful work. Whenever I need cheering up, I come to your build logs - they lift my heart. All the best for 2019, Richard.

Starboard side is complete. I promised myself to get at least this far over my Christmas break. I'm back to work tomorrow so I'm good. The jig for the port side plates is already made, so I'm starting that today. Now I've got the hang of it, it should go fairly quickly. New Year's Resolutions: Get more done - this is taking forever! Post more often (see 1.) All the best, Richard.

Coppering the hull I decided a while ago to see if I could add copper to the hull. The original planking was not great. I had 2 concerns, the most important was if I could get it looking reasonably realistic and also, given that I don't like the bright copper, could I get an aged brown color without waiting forever. This is how she looks with the port side about 60% done: This is a close-up Each plate is 1/4" x 1". For the nailing pattern I created a jig. This was very tedious given that there are 29 nails in the top edge and 71 in total. In the close-up they are a little too obvious but from the final viewing distance I think they'll look fine. This is a picture of the coppering from the USS Constitution done in 2017: The other question was color. The rest of the ship is not weathered but even so I don't want the copper bright and shiny. Just to be inconsistent, I also don't want the patina it would actually take when it's been exposed to salt water. I want that "old penny" look. I know this should happen naturally even under the coating that copper tape generally has. I wasn't sure how long this would take and I want to clean and put on a coat of lacquer to protect it prior to starting masts and rigging. I purchased a Birchwood Casey Antique Brown gel patina, and tried it out: It work very well. Was easily washed off with water and didn't effect either wood or paint. However, the natural patina already seems to be occurring within a couple of weeks, so I may not need it. I hope everyone has a great 2019! Richard.

It sounds like you need a rope making subcontractor! I am a complete novice at rigging but will be buying rope from you in the next 3-6 months, so I have some questions/comments. If the polyester is a little stretchy I assume that makes it easier to use? Does the polyester maintain its tautness during summer/winter environment changes? Would using both types help for different things (say polyester for shrouds and cotton/linen for ratlines) I would definitely have to "heat treat" it, suddenly unravelling on me would be a nightmare. Does it take CA to hold knots or would pva do? I do like your current rope (although I've only used about 12" of it so far!). I had decided not to use the tan and black I already have - I prefer the newer colors but knowing that a color change was coming would be good. Which brings me to another question, how much would people suggest I over-order to allow for wastage (20%, 50%, 100%, ...)? I don't mind have left over rope but I'd hate to be 2 feet short at the very end. Although know one likes spending more, a small price increase would not stop me buying your rope. Eventually I'd like to make my own but for my current build no (a man has to know his limitations). I hope you have a great Christmas! Thanks, Richard