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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Boyd i have problem with hull planking in general . I found somes guides on the web ?

 

Just in case you haven't seen the tutorials here on MSW.

 

Link to the planking tutorials: http://modelshipworl...ng-articles.php

 

Good luck....and take your time as the hull planking is quite difficult (particularly on this hull type/shape)  :)    

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Giant. Just before you go any further. I can see where the wet wood joints the dry wood, that the butt ends of the planks are aligned. Butt ends should never be adjacent one to another. Plan to have them staggered, just like you did on your walls. Much more realistic and correct.

Hope this helps.

 

Ulises

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Posted

I was also going to comment on the staggered butt joints, but Ulises beat me to it.  I would also start to think about starting to taper your planks at the bow.  Don't want to wait too long or you'll eventually run out of space for your planks.

Posted

First i need to precise i make the Bounty in two planking . The first in Boxwood 1.5 mm and the second will be probabely in sapelli 1 mm.

 

In second time the look the atached thumbnail in close up i start to taper at the bow on 6 planks the seven plank is for a test because i am affraid by the taper speed of the six first plank, What did you know about that ?

 

 

 

For the lightning in cabin i will make a log on that , if i do not talk about the light this is because i have a to bad English, but if it's interesting someone i try to talk about it.

post-19020-0-62283100-1449695068_thumb.jpg

Posted

I read somewhere on the web for the second planking it take Gel Contac Glue is it right?

And for the first planking atached thumnail the next planks need to taper or not for the 3 next planks?

post-19020-0-42410600-1449853501_thumb.jpg

Posted

If it is of any help I don't use contact adhesive at all. Just PVA (white glue). I also don't use pins but have found that sticky tape works well without leaving holes in the planks for the second planking.

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

Posted (edited)

Hi Giant

             you can use the same clips as you the ones you are already using but re-arrange them like this and then put them on the frames, and they will do the job better. Also i use a faster setting type of wood glue called Titebond it grabs a lot faster too. And for the second planking i use the Gel Super Glue. However i am going to try the single planking as per the instructions, because i have not done single before and it's worth trying just for the experience.

 

post-11947-0-57337400-1449860351_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cobr@
Posted

The plank with the pin on the photo are not glue the just dry on the frame for take the shapes .Before i glue it do i taper it to i am not shure? Give your advice please.

post-19020-0-01114800-1449870913_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

All the planks should have a slight taper on them. You should taper the plank before you bend it and do it while it is wet with a ruler and a sharp blade making a few passes, not all in one cut. This helps to stop the blade trying to follow the grain of the wood and leaves you with a smooth edge. Of course others may have different ways of doing it ;)

Edited by Cobr@
Posted

I would not use super glue at all on second planking, it will always show through varnish or whatever finish you decide on.

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

Posted

I make my choise on the plankins wood in the kit .

My first choise was too thin Boxwood .5 mm .I order some sapeli 1mm but it is back order .I decide to try the walnut 2mm in second planking and this is my choise , i need to sand and varnish .

post-19020-0-35192800-1450447381_thumb.jpg

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