model mike Posted January 24, 2016 Share #1 Posted January 24, 2016 Hi All Started my first build. Model Shipyards cutter Mermaid, a small boat, 56' in length, and a beam of 18'. Having finished the first layer of planking, Ive decided to plank the deck prior to fitting the bulwarks. Based on my limited exp, Ive decided to deviate from the plans and stagger the plank butt , however without fitting margin planks. After reading Ulises Victorias great guide on planking, my only ques is re any rules concerning the number of planks used between butt joints and the size of a ship. Thanks in advance...........what a great site. Cheers Mike mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick01 Posted January 24, 2016 Share #2 Posted January 24, 2016 If you search "Mermaid" you'l find a couple of builds plus a few queries that I've made regarding accuracy (or not) of the plans supplied. Before you fit the bulwarks be very careful as two of us have had a problem here which I later solved - "there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow keel for the required drill holes. The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review." Rick model mike and mtaylor 2 Quote Completed builds:- HM Cutter Mermaid. HMS Endeavour's Longboat Topsail Schooner Enterprize Arab Dhow Sultan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick01 Posted January 25, 2016 Share #3 Posted January 25, 2016 For lack of any other reply I should add that I used a three plank pattern with the planks being 120mm long which visually seemed OK. Rick Canute 1 Quote Completed builds:- HM Cutter Mermaid. HMS Endeavour's Longboat Topsail Schooner Enterprize Arab Dhow Sultan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
model mike Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted January 26, 2016 Hi Rick, Been away on work, slows down an already slow progress. Youve given me something to work on, and also something to consider before it becomes a lot more difficult to undo. Ill go thru these Mermaid build logs. Thanks again. Mike Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick01 Posted January 26, 2016 Share #5 Posted January 26, 2016 Here's my finished product http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/member/15284-rick01/ -a little different to the kit but not hard to achieve. Main differences being rigging and position of deck furnishings. Yell if you want to talk about any of it. I'm only a first time builder but happy to help if I can. Rick Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Completed builds:- HM Cutter Mermaid. HMS Endeavour's Longboat Topsail Schooner Enterprize Arab Dhow Sultan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
model mike Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share #6 Posted January 28, 2016 Rick, thats great, thanks for your kind offer. She has turned out real nice, very nice looking model. Its given me some energy to push on. Mike Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted January 28, 2016 Share #7 Posted January 28, 2016 My gut feeling on these smaller boats is that planks might be joined with a backing plate between the ribs instead of on the rib itself. 30 years hanging around wooden fishing boats in Alaska tells me this. Don't really know the rules. I think that a butt in 3 planks would be reasonable and not closer than 6 feet apart longitudinally. Bill Canute, model mike and mtaylor 3 Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted January 28, 2016 Share #8 Posted January 28, 2016 Record of American and Foreign Shipping of American Shipmasters' Association 1870 & 1885 Deck Plank section 25. The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length, and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam, and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them. Canute, Altduck, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbshan Posted January 29, 2016 Share #9 Posted January 29, 2016 My gut feeling on these smaller boats is that planks might be joined with a backing plate between the ribs instead of on the rib itself.... Bill I think a butt plate would be used when the frames were too thin or narrow to take the fasteners, or provide proper landing area for the two butts. Steam bent frames over moulds come to mind. A butt plate also should be a tad wider than the plank width and could provide some support for adjacent strakes or take support from them. Canute, model mike and mtaylor 3 Quote Joel Sanborn http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9953-lexington-by-jbshan-dlumberyard-164-from-the-seaways-practicum-by-clay-feldman/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
model mike Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share #10 Posted January 31, 2016 Great stuff. Answered my questions, and keeps me on the straight and narrow. Thanks heaps guys Mike Canute, mtaylor and Rick01 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted February 5, 2016 Share #11 Posted February 5, 2016 Was talking to a freind today who lived in Sitka. He once owned a wooden troller about 35 long. He said the planks were always joined with a block between ribs, The plank ends were through bolted and countersunk on the exterior and plugged. Also bedding compound was liberally applied between the plank and joiner. Decks were done the same way. On a boat that size ,screws for joints driven into the frames and carlins will weaken the wood and allow water to enter. At one time in Sitka it was popular to apply Pliobond ,a rubber cement as a waterproof deck paint.It proved to be too subject to wear and the practice was stopped. BILL model mike and mtaylor 2 Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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