US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I "whip" as many knots that way as I can. My strategy on seizing stays and shroud lines to the masts by doing them in a vice and slipping them over the mast in a systematic planned method allows me to use these whippings. I can tie these knots pretty well in a vice, not so much so on a mast.  All of my blocks are stropped with whippings. They look much better and hold better. I freeze all of my knots with CA. On some seizings directly to mast heads or the jib, I have actually glued the rope down without any knot, just a single wrapping. I try to avoid that, but have a few.

 

I attached the royal yard last night and just about fully prepared the topgallant yard and will be attaching that later today.  I should have some photos for you.

[jbshan]

One good thing, Darrell and Mike, is that the main and fore are done basically the same, so practice on one immediately pays off when you come to do the other.

Youse guys' speed amazes me, along with attention to accuracy.  I do hope the unknotted 'seizing' doesn't come back to haunt you later on.

[scott larkins]

Why did you chose tan instead of black rat lines?  Not criticizing, just wondering.  I had always assumed due to the weather conditions that black lines were always used.

[mikiek]

Joel - I was asking because there is a really good UTube (one of many) on seizing. The result looks solid but the whole process seems too much. Instead, I take the seizing rope around the rope to be seized then put a half hitch and a dot of CA. Then i wind for as much as I need, add another half hitch and a dot of CA.

 

Of course the long term viability of CA is debatable, but that is the route I am taking. In many cases it allows me to seize in place if the need arises.

 

So I was curious to know how Darrell was doing his seizing.

[jbshan]

That sounds OK, Mike.  I was thinking there was nothing holding the eye except the glue and that didn't seem quite secure enough if the glue should let go.  What you describe sounds similar to my technique which I learned fro a dedicated rigger.  I make the eye, put a small clamp on it, then secure with smaller line in a series of half-hitches, then a bit of glue just to hold the loose ends down.

[6ohiocav]

ROYAL, TOPGALLANT, AND TOPSAIL YARDS

 

In another small milestone, I dressed up and hung the Royal, Topgallant, and Topsail yards on my foremast in a lowered position.

 

I started with seizing all of the blocks to the yards by stropping them on a vice and slipping them over the yards. I seized blocks in my lift lines and tied bracing blocks.  Once they were all attached, I then installed the footropes and jack stays. I pinned the yards to the mast with straight pins and a drop of CA. The lift lines were then belayed to best secure them.

 

I seized all of the blocks for the clewlines, sheets, and buntlines, even though I am not going to attach any sails.  My plan is to run rigging to these blocks and tie them off on the yards somewhere.

 

I believe I have now reached a point where I will be stepping my foremast to the ship. That will then allow me to tie off the front stays and finish the bowsprit rigging and attach my lower shrouds and ratlines. If I attach the course yard in advance, I think it will be in the way when I work on the shrouds and ratlines. I will prepare the mast and yard with the pin in advance so that the installation will be as easy as possible.

 

The size of the bird nest of loose rope is alarming. There is plan for all of this... I think!!!

Edited November 16, 2016 by 6ohiocav

[6ohiocav]

Joel,

 

I am definately banking on the experience gained on the foremast to guide me through the work on the main mast.  It is however pretty daunting as I look at the "very bare" main mast knowing that it has taken me nearly an entire month to just to get the foremast to this point. I am trying my best to hit the authenticity marks. Thanks for noticing.

 

As for speed, it must be in the eye of the beholder. This work takes forever. I spend hours just looking over the plans before I even pick up a tool or a piece of rope. I feel like I am going at an excruciating slow pace, like I have strapped on full sails, with stunsails and royals, and am only making 7 knots when I feel like I should be cruising at 25 knots.  

 

Scott,

 

The decision to use tan ratlines was based on a few points. I understand that standing rigging was tarred in order to preserve the rope fibers, ergo the black look. My amateur research indicated that ratlines were not always tarred.  I perused a number of build logs and found that many shipwrights used tan ratlines. Aesthetically, I very much like the look and contrast in colors. Spacing was based on using a 14inch range transferred over to the 1/64 scale.

Edited November 16, 2016 by 6ohiocav

[mikiek]

I admire your dedication Darrell. I may still leave my build in a 'Admiralty' state. I just don't have any interest in doing the rigging.

 

Keep it up!

[jbshan]

I admire your dedication Darrell. I may still leave my build in a 'Admiralty' state. I just don't have any interest in doing the rigging.

 

Keep it up!

Careful, Mike.  I have several in an 'admiralty model' state.  It might become a habit.     Any case you use can be a lot shorter, of course.

[mikiek]

Any case you use can be a lot shorter, of course.

 

  One more reason.

 

I will get around to it. I was just tired and whiny last night.

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I understand your frustration, but Joel is right (he generally always is). You have to rig your ship.

 

It is a challenge for sure, but with that comes a great sense of accomplishment.  Also, the limited rigging I have completed really brings this ship to life. It is a wonderful look. You have spent too much time and your ship is too beautiful to leave "undressed"

[jbshan]

Mike,

 

...Joel is right (he generally always is)....

Oh, I dunno, that's a lot of responsibility to put on me.  What if I screw up sometime and lead you guys down a twisty trail to the dark side?

The one I'm working on now I will, I will, do the masts and rigging.  (Philadelphia, of 1776.  Only one mast, not much rigging.)  The mast is done in a novel fashion, with quarters cut to shape and glued up, not a dowel in sight.  That should be fun.

[mikiek]

You guys are both right. And I apologize to you for my whining in your log.

[mikiek]

Wow Joel - sounds interesting. Scratch build I presume? Wondering how you make mast quarters? Take a square stick and round off a corner?

 

The single mast sounds good too. That's one reason, in the back of my mind, I have been thinking about starting my Occre Cazador or Amati Arrow kit. The lateen rig is much simpler. Or finish my ME Pinnace - no mast at all

[jbshan]

Whining is OK, but no whinging, please.  One trick this time of year is to find a way to work where you can also watch football (the kind with helmets and pads, for all you disadvantaged, although Aussie rules might be interesting) or golf later in the year and next winter.  The Lions are playing Thursday, I understand.  Back to plank notching now.

[jbshan]

Model shipways kit.  Cut the taper into four pieces and glue them up, then round off the corners.  It's a technique I've seen in books for small sailboats.  There are good plans of Philly from the Smithsonian so scratch is not outside the known universe for a skilled workman.  I did the square stick thing for my Lexington model, in my 'build log'.  I think you can find it through my avatar.  Guess it's time to put it in my signature.

[6ohiocav]

I turned all of my masts and yards from square stock on the mini lathe. It took forever, and the scrap pile was large. But now, All of that work is paying off. I have come to realize that all of those octagon shapes that took forever to file by hand are there for a reason.  A lot of running rigging is belayed to the "shelves" at the top of the octagons.  If I had filed the octagons from the kit supplied dowels, which would have reduced the diameter, there would not be anything to the anchor the rope to. I decided to turn the masts simply for aesthetic reasons. The Cherry tops (oiled) and Holly lowers with the flat black yards creates a great contrast. Gaining a functional advantage was a bonus..

 

Spending the additional funds for quality blocks and ropes has also made a difference.

 

Joel,

 

You have not sent me to the darkside, but you sure have saved me from it many times.  Thanks friend.

 

Bring on your build. I would love to see it.

Edited November 22, 2016 by 6ohiocav

[jbshan]

Darrell, I put my page in my signature, but in case it doesn't link properly, try this:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9953-lexington-by-jbshan-dlumberyard-164-from-the-seaways-practicum-by-clay-feldman/

[mikiek]

Don't know this for a fact but kit supplied dowels are notorious for not being straight. The grain can run any which way, so even if they appear straight now down the road could be different.

 

I had a jig to file the octagons. It would even do them on a tapered stick. Made it very easy. It's somewhere in my log.

[6ohiocav]

All of my kit supplies dowels 1/4 inch or smaller were warped. The "best" one I could find was used for the spanker mast, and I had to straighten it by soaking it a bit, and bending it by hand. Not great but acceptable. Of course, as soon as I stained it, it went back to its original warped shape and I had to "straighten" it again. Acceptable, but a little less so.

 

Still a good kit, just some typical foibles.

[6ohiocav]

SHIP’S BELL AND FORWARD PINRAIL

 

Before I encase the bow with rigging, I decided I had better finish some of the last tasks on the deck that I have been putting off. I had previously built the ship’s bell framing, but had not lashed the bell and attached it to the Bowsprit. I also had to install the forward pin rail.

 

I built all of this from scratch from my supply of cherry.

[mikiek]

Man I must have really misread the plans. So there is an upper crosspiece that sits on top of the two posts and then another crosspiece 'hinged' between the posts below that?

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I don't have the plans with me, but If I recall, the cross member that the bell is strapped to with the handle to ring the bell is pinned between the bits. I used metal wire. The cap is a separate item that is glued to the top of the bits and the entire assembly straddles the Bowsprit. I think I did this according to the plans, but I would not be surprised if I did not, as I have strayed from them before.

[6ohiocav]

To ALL

 

As my son and daughter work their way home from college for the holiday weekend, my family and I would like extend our wishes to my fellow shipwrights and yours to have a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving Weekend. And since I am on the subject, thank you for your guidance and inspiration on this great forum. Cheers to you all, and I hope you find some time to work on your builds this weekend. 

Edited November 23, 2016 by 6ohiocav

[mikiek]

Glad to have you along Darrell. That goes for for the rest of you too.

[6ohiocav]

LOWER SHROUDS AND LANYARDS

 

Well, I finally stepped my foremast. I tied as many ropes on as I could figure out (all of the standing rigging and much of the running rigging) and attached all but the course yard.  Once in place, I started by connecting the lower shrouds.

 

I created a jig similar to the one I used on the upper shrouds. I pulled the shroud tight, and clipped the deadeye with a clamp.  I then took the clamp to my vice, placed next to the ship, and seized the deadeye.  I used three whippings on each.  My forward shroud line was served, thus the larger diameter.

 

I used .012” rope for the lanyards. I haven't tied them off just yet.

 

​My jig worked well and the deadeyes lined up nicely.  It was also pretty efficient allowing me to knock this out pretty smartly.

[mikiek]

That's exciting Darrell    What are the 2 tools (clamps) in your pix?

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I am not at my bench or I would send you a photo.  The metal clamp is from my fly tying days.  You can pick up one of these at a sporting goods store. The black clamp with the orange tip is a simple spring clamp that I have mounted to my bench vice. I think you have the same vice.  It has a movable swivel head that allows me to sneak it in close to the ship so that I can seize these lines.

 

I clamp the deadeye with the steel clamp, assuring the right distance, and then take the whole assembly over to the bench vice, clamp it in, and tie it up. Quick and pretty accurate since I don't have to handle the deadeye.

[mikiek]

If you don't mind, I would appreciate a pic when you get a chance.

 

For the second seizing, do you just pull the deadeye further out from the black clamp?

[6ohiocav]

FORESTAYS AND BOWSPRIT RIGGING

 

With my foremast finally in place, I was in a position to begin belaying all of the standing rigging onto the Bowsprit/jib.

 

I worked on this over the holiday weekend and have knocked out about 90%. I am attaching a couple of photos of the finished product, but will break this work down into segments in order to map out how I tackled all of these individual lines

.

Just some general observations for my future Niagara builders. I gave my order of attack a lot of thought. I tried to figure out what to belay first. I ended up attaching the JIBBOOM GUYS FIRST. There was no method to this madness, other than I had seen that others had done this first. From there, I then attached all of the stays, starting with the FORESTAY and PREVENTER STAYS, and moving up the mast to the TOPMAST STAY, TOPGALLANT STAY, FLYING JIB STAY and ROYAL STAY. I then attached the JIBBOOM MARTINGALE and FLYING JIBBOOM MATINGALE. I then attached the BOBSTAYS.

 

If I were to do this again, I would totally reverse this order of attack. I should have attached the BOBSTAYS FIRST. By the time that I got to them, which run from holes in the keel to the underside of the bowsprit, it was so crowded with stays and guys that it was nearly impossible to tie and manipulate the ropes.  More on that challenge later.

 

I would then attach the stays as I did them, bottom (Forestay) to top (royal).

 

Then the martingales.

 

Then LAST, the Guys. The guy lines were in the way during the entire process.  I am lucky I did not knock one off. I hit them hard with just about every tool I used on this process.

 

In short, think INSIDE OUT on the bowsprit, and BOTTOM TO TOP on the stays.