Andrea Gail by BassicBill - Billing Boats 608

[ctclock]

Not being the resident expert, I can chime in and say for this build, I would forego making it for RC.

 

I come out of the RC world and have a fair idea of what to do in that department. However, with a first build like this, I would concentrate more on honing my skills than considering RC.

 

As a point of interest. have you ever looked at the planking guides here on MSW? There is a wealth of info available

 

Good on you for sticking it out!

[popeye the sailor]

agreed.......if you were going to {and I know you mentioned this at the beginning}  it would have been good to set the frame up from the start.   now Billings does have an R/C version of this boat,  which starts out with an ABS hull.......may have been a better fit for you.   I have the plans for her.......I have the plans for the one your building.......used them to build the Andrea from a hull that I had modified.  #526  is the kit number:

 

http://www.billingboatsusa.com/31-experienced

 

an advanced beginner's kit would be the white star......surly would make a good R/C boat.   some kits are set up for it though....planked hull and all.   the Boulogne Etaples is R/C enabled......I have the diagrams for it......not being an R/C person,  I'm leaving her static.

[BassicBill]

I have a thing for fishing boats, so I do. I built one in the 70's, however, as with almost all of that decade has slipped out of my memory. Regardless, while on vacation a couple of years ago, I stumbled on an LHS which was going out of business and selling my kit (608)at 25% of the regular price, so I snapped it up. It was the only Billings kit in the shop. My resolve to not go with a planked kit in future seems to be waning to some degree. Not so much that I'm tempted to order anything, entirely too much more work to be done on this kit, for that kind of foolishness. When I've made enough progress with this build, I'll likely start fooling with my MTB model. What the hell, the worst I can do is destroy it! ;).

[BassicBill]

Notice anything wrong with the pointy end? I have NO idea how I could have progressed this far without noticing the screw up coming. But there it is! Nw busy working to correct this ugliness. Sheesh! Still and all, I'm holding up adequately in spite of having an inordinate amount of fun;).Any 

[BassicBill]

Not the right forum, I know, but I'm looking for thoughts on the Billings HMS Renown kit, please?

[BassicBill]

Here I thought that I'd added a post earlier, along with a photo. Dunno where that ended up, but no matter. I've run into a serious, possibly a project emder this time. Somehow, without noticing at all, I've ended up with a seriously asymmetrical now ("beamier on the port side than the stbd. The issue is such that my confidence with respect to my ability to recover from this mess is fading fast. Just now, it seems I may need to hack off a slice from the stem. I can only imagine the effect of all or most of my planks releasing from the stem, simultaneously. I've got admiralty involved in researching acceptable solutions, preferably one that doesn't include a trash can.

[popeye the sailor]

the Renown kit might be a good fit.    what is that .......a 1/4 x 1/4 length of square stock?    show me the other side.....don't give up yet......

[BassicBill]

Yes, Popeye, 1/4" square stock. In this case, against all convention, Balsa, because that's what I have. 

After studying the problem carefully it became obvious to me that I have built the bow (in general terms), quite badly. Probably the greatest issue or error has been in the way the stem put everything out of whack. The only viable solution I could/ can see is to eliminate a significant amount of the leading edge of the stem. (In order to achieve symmetry at the deck level and overall). And of course, the bow deck pieces had to be replaced (happily I had enough sheet styrene handy from which to make them)., once that symmetry had been achieved. Took off the deck pieces then aggressively attacked the stem. That 40 Grit sandpaper sure is a time saver! I then repaired the damaged planks (only one of which sprung loose after my stem reduction. I am currently piecing together the new-improved cut water, confident (so far) that a few coats of resin will make the balsa tough to enough for my purposes. No, not giving up. Plugging away but wondering if someone out there will steer me towards an "app" that will allow me to calculate my ever growing "fun quotient)"? 

[popeye the sailor]

apparently,  your having all the fun you can handle.   part of the starboard side is missing.   that would have been my suggestion........remove the cut water.   you can always make another.   styrene sounds good for the deck.......I'll look forward in seeing your repair  

[BassicBill]

I may be making this up on the fly, but in my experience, Starboard sides are largely overrated Yes, Popeye, 1/4" square stock. In this case, against all convention, Balsa, because that's what I have. 

After studying the problem carefully it became obvious to me that I have built the bow (in general terms), quite badly. Probably the greatest issue or error has been in the way the stem put everything out of whack. The only viable solution I could/ can see is to eliminate a significant amount of the leading edge of the stem. (In order to achieve symmetry at the deck level and overall). And of course, the bow deck pieces had to be replaced (happily I had enough sheet styrene handy from which to make them)., once that symmetry had been achieved. Took off the deck pieces then aggressively attacked the stem. That 40 Grit sandpaper sure is a time saver! I then repaired the damaged planks (only one of which sprung loose after my stem reduction. I am currently piecing together the new-improved cut water, confident (so far) that a few coats of resin will make the balsa tough to enough for my purposes. No, not giving up. Plugging away but wondering if someone out there will steer me towards an "app" that will allow me to calculate my ever growing "fun quotient)"? 

[BassicBill]

Almost ready for Resin once again, just a little filling and sanding to finish tomorrow. If the weather holds, I may be able to get that smelly stuff on, as well. I'm pretty satisfied with the new cut water, but hey! I'm easily satisfied;)

[BassicBill]

Popeye, in thinking about your observation that a part of me Stbd side was missing, I wanted to note that such was not the case. Still there; not pretty, but all of it is there (unlike myself, lol). Aquestion or two for you please. I'm sitting here waiting for my 1st coat of resin to cure on what I believe to be my largely finished hull, and I'm planning ahead. First, do you happen to have a finished version of this model in your possession? Through all that goes on in my chaotic life; I have apparently lost two important pieces (#25 X2) The  Bulwarks on the Aft deck (Port &Stbd). what I need is the height of the horizontal (fore &aft) sections.(I can sort out the fwd ends and cutaways 

On my own.).I'm guessing about 13mm or 1/2" is about right but being something of a coward, I hesitate to start hacking up my materials without having a better idea. I thank you kindly in your he even that you are able to help!

Bill in Prince George, British ByGodColumbia, where the trees have just turned green overnight.(and where yesterday we came within a hairs breadth of electing a Socialist Provincial government.whew! Close one.)

[BassicBill]

Not pretty, is it!? But here she is, thus far, bearing a single coat of resin. Had an hour or two of anxiety while the resin teased me when it didn't cure as quickly as I had expected, lol. 

As youve likely surmised, the green is the remains of Squadron Green filler. I daresn't sand too aggressively on either side, lest I break through my very thin planks. I hope to add a 2nd coat this evening. Tomorrow I'll give it an appropriate buffing with my 220 sanding stick before, ("possibly") giving the whole a coat of paint. Afterwards, the finishing of the transom and the fish ramp). All in all, I like to think that despite the ugliness depicted in my photo, the hull does bear a certain resemblance to a marine vessel of the floating device.

[popeye the sailor]

I gotta say.......she's look'in a whole lot better!   very well done!   of course I have a finished model......I made it scratch / modified from a cloned hull,  of another model I have.   I used both sets of Billing's instructions to get all the particulars.  I printed out the instructions for the # 526 kit {ABS hull}......you have the #608 kit.   I have those in a folder in one of my memory stix.   there isn't any measurements,  as far as I can see,  but if you make them anywhere from 3/4 to 1 inch,  you'll be alright.   you can also gauge it from the rise to the fore deck.   the aft bulwarks are the same height all the way around.......there is no cut out in the transom bulwark......it just wraps around.   the cut-away in the stern,  is as it is....you don't even cut out the deck.....     the fore deck has a fender that doesn't go all the way back........it tapers off before the mounts for the birds.  you may also have a part to make the fore deck go over the main deck.   if you want to view the instructions for the # 526 kit for any reason,  go here........

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bw40frlcNqbjOTNlYTE5Y2YtMGUyNC00NGE0LWE0ZTktNTRmZjFhNmM0MjM4?hl=en

 

if this don't work,  go to BillingUSA. com  and you'll be able to access it from there.   I haven't been in there for a while.......they have a lot more kit instructions listed.   are you using a clear resin?  I see where the green stuff was.......just curious to know if the gaps are filled.   just a head's up.......all ship hulls look terrible,  until they get further in the build,  or paint is applied.   keep it up Bill your doing alright.   if you don't want to see her like that anymore.....just give'er a light coat of primer.   you can still resin over it  

[BassicBill]

Thank you, Popeye, for all of this information and advice! I have a hard copy of the 608 instructions (I think I printed them from a PDF file, over a year ago. I also found a PDF of them which I found about a month or 2 ago. My beef with them is the lack of information. So, I think I'll go with 3/4" high bulwarks. The piece of decking that rests against the after end of the foredeck is in my possession. Having that is helpful in preparing to cut out the replacement bulwarks/bulkheads. I wasn't able to get my second coat of resin on last evening but will do so today. The gaps: they have been adequately filled, however, a few "dips" will benefit from a wee bit of filler. I'm pretty much obsessed with recreating a pair of Piece #25's, just now. That, the second coat of clear resin and then a coat of flat white in order to convince myself that all is as it should be. I didn't know that one could resin over paint, actually believed that it couldn't be done. That's good to know!

Bill.

[popeye the sailor]

it all sounds good bill........glad to see things are looking up for you.   primer is different than paint.......don't do it if your using paint.   it's confusing......primer is a paint per say......but it lacks the suspensions that paint possesses.  the resin can penetrate a primer because of this.   I'm not too sure about flat paint though......this paint lacks the suspensions as well.....that's the reason for the flat finish,  but I believe it still has some of the properties.   be sure to use a primer if you still need to resin.   using this I'm sure is OK  

 

Billing's is well know for having vague instructions.......other companies are about the same.   it goes with the territory.......keeps the cost down.  

[BassicBill]

Despite today's weather offerings, I have been able to apply the second (and presumably last), coat of resin to my hull. I'm hoping that it cures as quickly as advertised (manufacturers claim 90 minutes). I'll believe that when I see it. In messing about trying to make progress on the P&S bulwarks, I find myself using up more lumber than I can afford to use. I'm a little frustrated over the shape of the cutouts where the bulwarks meet the foredeck rise. Although I'd rather have it resemble the real boat, I've decided to go ahead and make mine a little simpler. Such decisions, as always, are subject to change. Tomorrow I'll pick up a can of primer if what passes for a LHS here, has something of the sort.

[BassicBill]

It is appearing to me that a post of mine is missing, nothing of significance but odd. I posted a photo of my hull after putting a coat of flat white on it.a heavy (too heavy). That photo and the short ramble with it just aren't showing up here. Just as well though- not a pretty picture. No white primers (in spray) are available here, no surprise to me, but I'm not convinced about that. Currently working on building up the transom, as per the instructions.

[Jack12477]

Bill, invest in a set of the Lee Valley Veritas micro planes, specifically the low angle block plane and the bench plane. They may look like a toy but they are fully functional and sharp planes. For "rough sanding" of the hull I use these to pare the wood down and smooth out the edges where the planks mate.  And you have a lot more control over them than a Dremel and it saves time on the actual sanding.   Model is coming along nicely.

[BassicBill]

I thank you, Jack! I did a search on their Canadian Online Catalogue site, it appears that they are either denying that they sell them,- none found. I then checked their US site. Lovely little fellers, but at $50 a pop, also light years out of this old pensioners grasp! But again, thank you for the suggestion! I actually had a low-end mini plane at one time) Part of a hobby/modelling tool kit. However, it proved to be better suited to butchering wood as opposed to smoothing, lol. Such a shame, seems to me like a very valuable addition to any modellers stock of tools!

[Dilbert55]

Jack12477 - Is this the Lee Valley micro plane you were referring too?  

[Jack12477]

No, not those planes, altho those are very interesting planes.  It's these miniature planes http://www.leevalley.com/us/gifts/page.aspx?p=70138&cat=4,104,53212,70138

 

They come as individual or sets, I would recommend starting with the low angle block plane shown above, and the bench plane. The chisels are useful for getting into small areas of the model. Others as fiances and needs/interest dictate.

[BassicBill]

After careful consideration I've decided that there won't be any new planes in my future. The deciding factor being that, if one glances at my hull Really quickly, it looks quite marvellous! Hey, it's My fantasy, leave me to it, please!" I do thank you all for your advice and guidance!

[Dilbert55]

Fully understand your decision. You will see over time that this site is a wee bit fixated on tools of all sorts and only a few come "Supplied in a French-fitted embossed leatherette box,.." 

[Jack12477]

5 hours ago, Dilbert55 said:

only a few come "Supplied in a French-fitted embossed leatherette box,.." 

Yea, I thought they were a "cutesy" toy too until on a whim I bought the low angle block plane and tried using it on one of my models. That's when I decided it wasn't a "cutesy" toy but a real functioning miniature plane that could get into small areas where even the smallest of the "full sized" planes couldn't.  Now it sits on my workbench right alongside all my micro-chisel, files, and assorted modeling tools.  In my case, I prefer to use hand tools powered by my hand/arm over powered tools; I just have a better feel for what I'm doing with a good hand tool.  Not to say I don't have any power tools; I do, but I use them sparingly.

[Dilbert55]

This plane is a specialist's tool, so it should be packaged as it is, specially.

[BassicBill]

Yo, Popeye! Another question please! Not surprisingly I discovered that I am missing a couple more parts that I'll need to fabricate myself. #27, the two strips that form the Prow after running up the foredeck then meet at an angle, creating the 'point' of the bow. My question is, how tall are those pieces at their highest? From the photos, I have, I'd guesstimate somewhere between 3/8 and 1/2 inch. They then taper down to about 1/32"high at the after end of the foredeck, right? Thanks in advance for your help!!

NEVERMIND!! Immediately after punching the 'submit 'button, walked into my studio/shop, peeked in a kit box for no particular reason and what should appear but the sheet of parts that I've been lamenting the loss of. Bulwarks and foredeck rails plus a few other goodies! This after just today gluing my homemade bulwarks! They aren't nearly as pretty as the proper pieces, so, it's all good!

[popeye the sailor]

do you still need the info?   one air bubble for yes.......two for no     as long as you leave room for the bird brackets.....your good.  {I had a ball making these parts  } 

[BassicBill]

But Thank You!!

[BassicBill]

A second coat of flat white, after sanding off the first; finishing off the transom, installing the bulwarks, and foredeck rails. Next up is bending and attaching the rubbing strikes.