Dilbert55 Posted April 27, 2017 Share #1 Posted April 27, 2017 This is my 1st build log on MSW and 3rd build to date. The kit was a gift from my wife who apparently found a print-out lying around in a strategically visible place. Intent going in was to follow the detail instructions provided on DVD, be as clean as my noob skills allow, but be creative with how the ship is finished. Not attempting to produce a faithful reproduction of the actual Hermoine. Experimented with a dark brown shoe cream on the gun deck. No big issues during planking, pics are after initial sanding. This was my 1st build without a 2nd finish layer of planks so made more effort to get tight joints. Was a bit nervous following the instructions and not having the keel installed during planking to be able to see if I was getting a nice fit with the keel. On my last kit, deviated from the instructions and installed the keel ahead of where instructed to. Decided to see how the hull turned out stained, could always paint over if not satisfied. Happy with the results at this point. If I was going to keep the stain it needed satin poly and my master carpenter brother in-law told me to use Scotchbrite rather than sandpaper between coats. Had to order online so made the mistake here of going ahead fabricating and installing the gun port moldings, too impatient for the Scotchbrite to arrive. Pic below is after 5 coats of poly. After 1st visit to the hobby shop and art supply big box store, came back with Naphthol Red from Golden for the port moldings but after doing the ports on the open gun deck didn't like the color. Re-painted with Red Oxide (shown) so had to paint over the already installed moldings on 10 ports. Not that clean, guess I will just have to live with it and learn. As my deck is a darker shade, used Titan Buff on the quarter round moldings. Was my 1st time using Artesania's micro-shaper for the moldings, it was easy to use and worked well. Might also use the Buff color on the cap rail moldings, will decide after installing the final additional planks on the upper hull. Zarkon, MESSIS, tasmanian and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted April 29, 2017 Share #2 Posted April 29, 2017 Great work! One comment: Hull looks in the picture like it needs more sanding One question: Can you show a biger picture of your work of the quarter round moldings? Keep up the nice work Christos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted April 29, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted April 29, 2017 Perhaps its the lighting, as I probably sanded too much in a few places. Note the color difference between FWD/AFT in this picture. Here's a few larger pics of the moldings, Forgot to include this pic of the stern in the initial set. As the plank stock pieces provided are not long enough in all cases for aft hull, cheated a bit and added an piece of plank on top of the lowest strip (#33 on illustration) on the lower aftercastle to make it easier to make a blended joint between the planks and the lower aftercastle. Made some cradles out of the leftover wood around frames 7 + 8, balsa and weather stripping foam. One thing I definitely learnt for my next hull is to color match each raw plank before using any particular plank. I didn't do this here so you can see some real color differences between some adjacent planks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted April 29, 2017 Share #4 Posted April 29, 2017 So... First of all thank you for the pictures I have asked for. You see am going to use the micro shaper my self... I bought it (both... six plates in total) for 35 euros incl. shipping. Secondly you are right. No sanding needed any more. Planking is fine! Third you are wrong. The different colours of your planks are actualy not only not a problem, but on the contrary, they represent a succes building story. Do you know any planking , if not painted ,havinng the same colour all over? No you dont! Keep up the good work Christos mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share #5 Posted May 9, 2017 Going to deviate a bit from the instructions sequence, prime and apply the 1st coat of red paint before attaching the carriage wheels. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted May 9, 2017 Share #6 Posted May 9, 2017 A ok.... it came later the second email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share #7 Posted May 18, 2017 Guns mounted on the lower deck. Need to find a more consistent means of getting a clean cut on lines attaching to eyebolts. Can see more tools coming in the future mtaylor, tasmanian and reklein 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted May 18, 2017 Share #8 Posted May 18, 2017 Well done. Nice work! mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share #9 Posted May 31, 2017 Heads Up - The instructions for the last pieces of planking on the upper hull are a bit miss-leading. When adding the final planks, instructions P227-228 show a sloped transition between the FWD and MID sections of the top planks, going down from 7.5mm to 4mm. The resulting slope is then shown in all pictures UNTIL you get to P265 when the cap moldings are being added. Now it's show as a square (step-down) between the FWD and AFT sections. The step down looks to be in-line with the edge of the opening to the gun deck so I think I'll be OK but only noticed this because I was checking ahead to see if I had done everything needed before painting the blue section. Will add the moldings mounted on the exterior of the top plank, fix this area detail and then cut the gun ports before painting the blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted June 5, 2017 Was thinking about painting the small center strip on the cap rail the same "Buff" colour as the 1/4 round molding on my gun deck but after a few tries it became obvious that it wouldn't be very clean so ditched that idea. Perhaps I'll try a different paint sequence on the upper cap rail and do the lighter color first? This strip is yellow on the real paint scheme but I don't think I'll be using yellow. Will complete the finishing on the deck before add this cap rail detail. mtaylor and reklein 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 5, 2017 Share #11 Posted June 5, 2017 I saw it black... I also saw it colourless (varnished wood), but all the hull including the rail was not painted. Look this pic.thats an option as well. But its all a matter of personal taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share #12 Posted June 9, 2017 Believe I have a solution for the stripe on the cap rail. Carefully scrapped the blue paint off from the cap rail molding center line sections and will cover with a bit of poly when I do the deck. Will paint the molding that will eventually go over the bottom of the blue line on the hull in Buff to match, hopefully. ken3335 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 10, 2017 Share #13 Posted June 10, 2017 I think it will do it. Its not a bad Idea.... I think its going to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share #14 Posted June 19, 2017 Relatively content with how the main deck and cap railings turned out. Nothing like building to learn what not to do! Onto the deck details next and need to find a better means of blackening the cannons on this deck. Not trying for realistic finish on this model, just a clean one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 20, 2017 Share #15 Posted June 20, 2017 I am planing to paint the cannons with black paint and highlight the various casting forms with lead . I made some thoughts of using the special blackening liquid from Birchwood... i did used that to blacken chain on other models and now on Hermione to make the shiny hinges of the rudder a little more dark. But the cannons seem to be made from zinc or some metal that want be easy to blacken chemical, for which also Birchwood offers no liquid (they have for brass, aluminium and silver from what I know). Anyway why dont you use a.mat black paint I think thats the best we can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share #16 Posted June 20, 2017 Perhaps I just need to pay more attention to cleaning the cannons before priming. Going to try soaking in vinegar but haven't figured out how long to soak them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 20, 2017 Share #17 Posted June 20, 2017 I dont think vinigar will do... get a good primer the one from MS is great.... or try the valejo acrylic I think its going to be ok 1 OZ. PRIMER - MODEL SHIPWAYS PAINT - HISTORIC MARINE COLORS - MS4839 0 Review(s) Your Price: $4.99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share #18 Posted June 20, 2017 Thanks for the info, will keep on my list if I need to make an order from the U.S. Unfortunately the minimum order is usually 30$ USD and I don't happen to need anything else at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 20, 2017 Share #19 Posted June 20, 2017 Are you sure? The sold me just 3 paints last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share #20 Posted June 20, 2017 Send me a link to the site you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted June 21, 2017 Share #21 Posted June 21, 2017 www.modelexpo-online .com I just rechecked because its been some time since my last order. There is no minimum order (at least for Cyprus) but there is a flat shipping rate (again to Cyprus/Europe) of 20 USdollars. As the order volume grows the shipping cost gets even bigger, but as I said thats for Europe.... Canada may be icheaper (same continent, no overseas..... I cant tell) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share #22 Posted July 25, 2017 Was able to order from the link Messis provided and they adjusted the normal shipping rate down, which was very much appreciated. They have a "distributor" here in Canada but they don't sell the primer. Used it on the main deck cannons but didn't notice all that much difference with the Tremclad I have been using. Shipyard has been on summer hours due to the heat and dock worker partying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted July 25, 2017 Share #23 Posted July 25, 2017 Nice build there! You did modifications concerning the color and I think its very nice! I made some expiriments on the Hermione's kit cannons and I got them black using the blackening I used for bronze. Bought it from amazon uk about 14 euros. Birchwood Casey Brass Black The result is great.... absolutly great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share #24 Posted August 9, 2017 In section 11-7 the instructions say to "...apply the pore sealant..." onto the photo etched parts before painting. Have never heard done this and did I find anything applicable / useful on the Google. Any suggestions on what this pore sealant is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken3335 Posted August 9, 2017 Share #25 Posted August 9, 2017 Hi Dilbert, Coming along nicely, looks like your doing a thorough job. As for pore sealer I'm sure that it refers to Sanding Sealer. A clear coat that is absorbed by the wood, when dry a light sand gives the surface a nice smooth finish having filled up the pores so that when you varnish or paint you don't get a rough finish but a very smooth tough surface. You can use it to slightly toughen up small pieces to stop them splitting. Use it after you put on any stain though as it stops the wood from absorbing it. It comes in both water or spirit based, I prefer the spirit based stuff it dries ready for use in a few minutes. Every surface of my Royal William build has it applied, once you try it you'll love the stuff. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted August 9, 2017 Share #26 Posted August 9, 2017 (edited) No no Ken the instructions are not refering to a wooden piece but to a fotoetched part. So Dilbert I think that he means a paint primer.... as he also previously suggests by all metal parts to be painted. Edited August 9, 2017 by MESSIS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken3335 Posted August 9, 2017 Share #27 Posted August 9, 2017 (edited) Ah yes, just re read it, must have been a senior moment. Strange term though, 'pore sealer' Ken Edited August 9, 2017 by ken3335 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted August 10, 2017 Share #28 Posted August 10, 2017 Dilbert... any better views? Whats your decision? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MESSIS Posted August 10, 2017 Share #29 Posted August 10, 2017 A good netal primer lightly brushed so you dont leave any brush lines....this what I do.....OR: A trick that works pretty well for me is to dip the brass fret into a cup of vinegar for a few seconds and then rinse the fret in running cold water. That will etch the brass giving the paint something to grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilbert55 Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share #30 Posted August 10, 2017 Going to assemble the fences with these photo etched parts left "as-is" (unfinished) and see what they look like. Looks like they will fit in with my colour scheme and there aren't any other detail parts on the deck that I will need to match with this colour. Some of the voids in the center section detail are so small I'm afraid they will fill up with paint even if I airbrush both the primer and colour coats. If I'm not happy with the results will try Messis's vinegar method and final color coat only, no primer. Don't want to mess with these tiny parts if painting them comes out looking lumpy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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