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Posted

Dear all,

 

Silver soldering has become one of my favorite activities in ship modeling and as it happens this period to be in the mast and rigging installation phase, I took pictures to log the process.

 

In this section I see there are various ineresting and informative topics, yet I took the liberty to contribute my own version, always seeking your critique.

 

Step one: coil the brass wire around a brass rod to form a spyral. In my case I used a screwdriver as its diameter was the ideal for the specific deadeyes. The selection was done by trial and error.

 

post-3284-0-91089400-1365876552_thumb.jpg

 

Step two: remove spyral from the rod and cut all way with cutting pliers. By doing so, we create small rings. The picture below was not really necessary, but anyway, here it is...

 

post-3284-0-20291400-1365876554_thumb.jpg

 

Step three: with needle file trim the joining surfaces of the rings and bring them into contact. In the picture below the three rings on the right we left on purpose unfiled and not shaped, in order to highlight the difference with the counterparts on the left.

 

post-3284-0-74736000-1365876555_thumb.jpg

 

Step four: silver solder them. in the picture below this is how they look immediately after, without any further treatament.

 

post-3284-0-98813400-1365876556_thumb.jpg

 

Step five: with the aid of needle files and a rotary brush, they change completely look.

 

post-3284-0-38050300-1365876558_thumb.jpg

 

Step six: With the aid of  a circlip pliers  squeeze the ring in order to  take an oval shape wide enough to accomodate (at a later stage) the deadeye.  Next, still holding the oval shaped ring with the circlip pliers, squeeze it further to take the desired shape below.  Insert the deadeye, align the holes and sueeze it to its final shape.

(I know, more pictures would be appreciated, but at this stage you need a partner, not available unfortunately).

The final step is to blacken the brass. I use a product containing selenious acid. It is used to blacken engravings on brass.

 

post-3284-0-83041300-1365876551_thumb.jpg

 

Stelios

 

Current build: not decided yet.

 

Previous builds:

Traditional Greek vessel "Symiaki Skafi" (scratch)

Traditional Greek vessel "Perama" (scratch)

HMS Bounty (kit)

 

Posted (edited)

Ahoy Stelios :D

 

Thanks for posting, I too am looking forward to this part in my build. Your work looks very good. Are you cleaning the parts or using any flux prior to soldering.

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

Posted

Nice tutorial! What do you use to warm up the ring?

I use a simple and cheap torch bought from the internet. I was inspired by Russ' tutorial posted at the time.

Current build: not decided yet.

 

Previous builds:

Traditional Greek vessel "Symiaki Skafi" (scratch)

Traditional Greek vessel "Perama" (scratch)

HMS Bounty (kit)

 

Posted

Ahoy Stelios :D

 

Thanks for posting, I too am looking forward to this part in my build. Your work looks very good. Are you cleaning the parts or using any flux prior to soldering.

No I did not use any flux prior to soldering, however, as mentioned in step three, the trimming with the needle files  cleans the parts.

 

Stelios

Current build: not decided yet.

 

Previous builds:

Traditional Greek vessel "Symiaki Skafi" (scratch)

Traditional Greek vessel "Perama" (scratch)

HMS Bounty (kit)

 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Thanks for posting this, I am at that stage right now and was trying to solder my parts in place and creating briquettes in the process. Gonna try this, thanks again. 

One question, are you using hard silver solder or silver bearing plumbers solder?

Ok two questions, are you blackening after crimping to your deadeye?

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

Stelios, I like your method--very nice! However, I'm a confused about the circlip pliers. Could you post a photo of the ones you're using, please? The type of circlip pliers I'm familiar with have 2 posts at their tips--like the picture below--so I'm having a hard time seeing how this type of pliers can make such nice ovals!

 

post-4129-0-43447400-1381036904.jpg

 

Cheers,

Jay

Current Build:  Ariel

Posted

Sam, I didn't see it at 1st--was thinking of how I used to use them as intended for installing/removing circlips--but ones with long nose posts would be able to do what Stelios described...methinks I'll be digging my circlip pliers out and giving this a try! :P

 

Jay 

Current Build:  Ariel

Posted (edited)

Thanks for posting this, I am at that stage right now and was trying to solder my parts in place and creating briquettes in the process. Gonna try this, thanks again. 

One question, are you using hard silver solder or silver bearing plumbers solder?

Ok two questions, are you blackening after crimping to your deadeye?

Sam

Sam,

apologies for the belated response, activities other than ship modelling are keeping me busy...

 

First of all, the attached picture shows is the pliers I use, not an expensive one, it just gives me the flexibility to choose the inner width of the ring.

 

The soldering material I use is  in tube (1 oz paste) and on the label it is stated: Fusion Brazing Paste prod: STL-1205-655. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I used Russ' tutorial. I think it mentions the same paste. It is very easy to use especially for novices like me.

 

The blackening process comes at the very end. The dead-eyes (wooden) were not affected.

 

Cheers

Stelios

post-3284-0-93541500-1382287995_thumb.jpg

Edited by stelios

Current build: not decided yet.

 

Previous builds:

Traditional Greek vessel "Symiaki Skafi" (scratch)

Traditional Greek vessel "Perama" (scratch)

HMS Bounty (kit)

 

Posted

Jay, I didnt have any circlips so I tried my roundnose pliers. I think they worked out ok.

 

attachicon.gifchain-plates-08.jpg

 

Sam

This is a neat job Sam.

Current build: not decided yet.

 

Previous builds:

Traditional Greek vessel "Symiaki Skafi" (scratch)

Traditional Greek vessel "Perama" (scratch)

HMS Bounty (kit)

 

Posted

Stelios, thank you so much for posting a photo of the pliers you use!  Using those type of pliers makes great sense--now I fully understand your technique!  I will try those on the next straps I make, as it looks much easier than making jigs or etc., and the pliers should give the perfect crimp.  

 

I also use a paste similar to what you're using, and you're right, it's very easy to use!  Sam, if you need a source for it, let me know and I'll post the supplier's info.  It's a little expensive, but it goes a long way and works great!  Like Stelios, I got my info from Russ' excellent tutorial!

 

Cheers,

Jay

Current Build:  Ariel

Posted

Hey all thanks!! I have a similar solder here. I am amazed at just how little it takes! So far I have all my deadeyes stropped and the first chain attached. Yesterday I stared in on the second chain that gets bolts/nailed to the hull and plate. Off to work at the moment, I will get a picture up this evening.

Thanks

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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